How to glue self-adhesive film?
Both wallpaper and PVA glue can be used as glue. Option is definitely the first one - it won’t stick 100%. What to do - putty the plaster to a glossy state and create a smooth, dust-free film on the surface. For example, paint it, cover it with several layers of PVA glue, and so on.
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How to remove whitewash and paint from a metal door
Paint splashes from a metal door can be easily wiped off with acetone.
With whitewashing it can be more difficult - stains remain. The most reliable way to remove white marks from the surface of the door leaf is with a vinegar solution: 20 ml per liter of water. First, the whitewash is washed off with warm water, and then wiped with a vinegar solution and a dry cloth. This method is also suitable for removing traces of chalk.
The second option is vegetable oil. Splashes of whitewash are first washed off with plain water. And then someone moistens the rag with vegetable oil, and someone adds it to warm water. Both methods are effective.
Useful tips
Residues of glue can be removed from heated glass and polymer coating on metal using a hard eraser (eraser). This option combines especially well with the use of solvents when used alternately. Rolled particles of eraser and glue can be easily removed with a soft cloth or paper towel.
You should not attempt to use an iron, even a steam iron. When approached closely, the film can stick to the sole of the iron, ruining useful equipment, and the steam boost when using such a device has an insufficient area. Using a steam iron will have an even worse effect on plastic frames - they may change color or become deformed.
If the film is swollen with small bubbles or adheres tightly to the panel, you need to find a place to start removing it. To remove the old film from PVC windows, on which the coating was “tucked” under the glass seal during installation, you will need to carefully outline the outline of the glass with a blade or utility knife. After this, the incision is pryed open with the same blade or, if possible, with tweezers. Such “lifts” are made 2…5 cm from each other, preferably in a corner on its two sides. After it becomes possible to pick up the edge of the covering with your fingers, it is pulled with even force, without jerking, trying not to warp the canvas. If done successfully, the material is removed in one piece, all that remains is to remove the remaining glue.
The protection is usually glued to frames with a strip that does not reach the edge of the glass, so in the case of a tightly adhering film, its edge is the same as in the previous version - the edge is lifted with tweezers (trimmed if necessary) in several places and carefully removed, if possible without breaking the strip .
The question of how to remove dried film from plastic windows is often solved with the help of ammonia - in everyday life, pharmaceutical ammonia. The entire surface of the glass is evenly moistened with it, after which they act in the manner described above. When working with aggressive chemicals, you must wear a respirator and thoroughly ventilate the room!
Prepare in advance - choose a substance that can remove foam
The frozen substance is primarily affected mechanically. When choosing a tool, be careful so that it does not damage the doors. Use a blade, knife or sharp spatula to clean wood surfaces, as well as metal and varnished products. A wooden spatula is used to clean the veneer surface.
To completely remove remaining traces of foam, use specially designed products that can be bought in the store. These include:
- Solvents, acetone. If everything is already clear about acetone, then when choosing solvents you need to be picky. To remove foam, numbers 646 and 647 are suitable. The first is more aggressive, so it is suitable only for very rough surfaces. For example, metal doors. It is strictly prohibited to clean PVC and MDF products with these products.
- White Spirit.
White spirit can be used to remove residual foam.
- Cosmofen 20, 10, 5. The numbers reflect the strength of the substance: the smaller it is, the stronger it is.
- Products used to clean mounting guns. Choose those compounds that will cause minimal damage to your surface.
How to care for a metal door
A metal door is a guarantee of peace of mind. It protects your home from uninvited guests, protects personal space and protects home comfort from the rest of the world. In order for a metal door to be a reliable barrier for many years, it needs to be looked after. The service life of the fabric and mechanisms, which the owners put in order in a timely manner, increases by 5-10 years compared to their “unkempt” counterparts.
What problems await the owners?
If you do not take care of a metal door, the consequences may become apparent after a couple of years of use. Various defects will be visible to the naked eye:
For doors outside and inside buildings, the consequences may be different. Precipitation and sunlight damage metal sheets faster than heat and drafts in rooms. However, you need to take care of all doors, regardless of their location.
Caring for a metal door: general rules
Before you get started, you need to understand a couple of general rules. For example:
- Do not wash the canvas at temperatures below +5˚ C, otherwise water may freeze in the locking mechanism or cracks, the door will stop closing and swell;
- care products should be selected according to the external design: MDF panels, vinyl leather, veneer, etc.;
- vegetable oil is not suitable for lubrication;
- Defects must be eliminated immediately after they appear.
It is better to prevent the occurrence of defects - lubricate the hinges in a timely manner, wash and polish the canvas, and replace the upholstery. But if some kind of breakdown occurs, then there is no need to postpone the repair until “later”.
The penultimate rule is especially tough: never use vegetable oil, because over time it will crystallize and ruin any hinges or locks.
Caring for the metal surface of the door
Caring for metal sheets mainly means timely washing. If the door is painted with a powder or enamel composition, then it is enough to wipe it with a soft cloth and soapy water.
After wiping with a damp cloth, the door must be wiped dry.
If the surface is scratched, you can cover it with a thin layer of furniture wax, and if it begins to fade, silicone grease will help. The latter must be applied to the canvas with a sponge.
Caring for decorative door surfaces
A metal door can be finished with natural wood, veneer, plastic, MDF and other materials. Each of them requires specific care:
- natural wood panels must be treated with special foam according to the instructions. Do not wash them with water or chemicals - after drying, the wood will crack and become unusable;
- The veneer trim is also treated with a special foam. In addition, it is advisable to apply polish with or without wax: this will help avoid greasy stains and cracking;
- MDF PVC cannot be wetted with water - the surface will swell and bubble, this can no longer be corrected. Instead of water and cleaning products, you should use furniture care sprays. They need to be applied to a soft cloth (not on the door!) and wipe the cloth with light movements;
- laminate on metal doors can be of two types: anti-vandal and regular. The latter is cared for in the same way as MDF PVC, and the former can be wiped with anything - chemical cleaning agents, soap solution and floor cleaning liquids;
- Postforming panels are another anti-vandal coating. Not picky, washable by any means;
- Vinyl leather, compared to laminate and postforming panels, is very delicate and finicky. It is better to treat it with real leather care products, using only soft rags.
It doesn’t matter what the decorative upholstery of a metal door is made of - simply washing with water is not enough to care for them. To preserve their appearance and physical characteristics, you need to use special products. And be sure to take clean, soft rags - rough, hard brushes can scratch and ruin them.
Caring for mechanisms
Metal door mechanisms consist of hinges, locks and handles. All of them need to be lubricated approximately once every six months to avoid squeaks, handles getting stuck when opening and keys getting stuck in locks.
To ensure that the door does not fail and works well, you need to:
- periodically inspect the fastenings and tighten the screws;
- lubricate the hinges with machine oil (not motor oil!) so that they move easier in the grooves;
- lubricate the locks: pull out all the bolts, apply oil spray on them and push them in. Wait 30 seconds, pull out again and lubricate. Repeat the procedure 3-4 times. Lubricate the lower lock through the tongue: push it in completely, inject oil through the holes around it;
- It is better to lubricate the inside of the lock with a key: apply oil to the teeth and insert into the keyhole, turn several times;
- It is better to remove the handles for processing - this way the oil can be distributed on all parts of the mechanism.
- If there is more oil during application than necessary, you can simply remove it with a soft cloth.
Rubber pad
The rubber pad on the metal door serves to press the leaf tightly against the frame. Thanks to this, there are no drafts in the house and heat does not escape. Due to the fact that the lining is constantly deformed from contact between the door and the frame, its service life is much shorter than that of the entire leaf.
To prevent its damage, you need to purchase a special silicone grease from a furniture store and treat the pad with it once every 1–2 months. For ease of application, it is best to buy lubricant in spray cans.
What can't you do?
Once you have learned the rules for caring for metal doors, you also need to find out what you absolutely cannot do with them. For example, you shouldn't:
- clean doors with spatulas, hard sponges, scrapers and other rough tools;
- use aggressive chemicals and solutions, because the canvas may lose its color, gloss and neat appearance;
- Use powdered cleaning products - they may scratch metal surfaces or decorative trim.
Home renovation
Special precautions must be taken when renovations begin on a home. For metal doors, work in the house means dust, dirt and a thousand manipulations with the lock and handles a day, so it’s worth protecting them from damage twice as hard:
- the door needs to be curtained with plastic film, leaving gaps only for the key and handles. You can secure the polyethylene with tape;
- During repairs, special care must be taken to ensure that no dirt or debris from construction debris gets into the keyhole. If this happens, it will be impossible to open or close the door with the key, the entire mechanism will have to be changed;
- At the end of the work, the film must be removed and the canvas wiped with a soft dampened cloth, then wiped with a dry cloth until completely dry.
In any case, caring for a metal door does not take much time. In return, it extends the “life” of the canvas and mechanisms by several years. Good pay for a couple of treatments a year.
Do you have any questions?
We are always happy to welcome new customers and are ready to advise you on any questions regarding our wide range of steel doors and other additional products.
How to clean safely?
From the information above, you already understand that there are 3 types of serious pollution:
- Polyurethane foam;
- Dye;
- Grease and dirt.
Firstly, getting rid of grease and dirt is much easier than getting rid of foam and paint (you won’t have to use chemicals and harm your health if safety precautions are not followed). Secondly, if you are allergic and have sensitive skin, and just the smell of paint makes your head swim and your vision darkens, call a friend for help, you shouldn’t harm your health.
How to remove film from plastic windows if it cannot be removed?
We heat the film with an industrial hair dryer (or use a powerful “home” hair dryer). After which, quickly (until the protective film has cooled) and carefully, pry up the edge of the film with a scalpel (or a sharp stationery knife) and tear it off the window surface without stopping.
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Ways to deal with dried foam
The choice of technology for cleaning an entrance or interior door from polyurethane foam completely depends on what material it is made from. Iron doors easily tolerate contact with chemicals, so any method of removing foam is suitable for a steel surface.
Before cleaning the door, you should apply the selected cleaning composition to an area of the door leaf that is invisible to others and evaluate the result. If after 30 minutes the door material does not react with the solvent used, you can apply it to the foam-contaminated fragment.
The technology for removing hardened sealant is no different from the procedure for removing the remains of fresh foam. Initially, it is cut off with a knife, and then the remaining substance must be removed using a solvent suitable for the door surface. When working with white spirit, acetone or other solvent, you should be careful and wear gloves. This also applies to the use of the pharmaceutical drug Dimexide.
When to remove the coating from a profile: manufacturers' recommendations
Manufacturers warn to remove the protection layer from the profile after installation or within 10 days.
Since it serves as armor for plastic, protecting it from dirt, minor scratches, and various damage during transportation, installation, and when performing finishing and construction work in the immediate vicinity of the window. It is not intended to remain on frames for a long time. Because the glue underneath dries and eats into the polymer material. The sun protection layer itself will be damaged, lose elasticity, integrity, lose its technical characteristics, and it will be problematic to remove it.
The longer the tape covers structures, the more difficult it is to remove. Therefore, the main thing is to hurry up with the procedure, thereby significantly increasing the service life of the product.