In their work, interior designers usually develop any solutions that customers like. Moreover, these solutions radically transform typical housing and give it emphasized individuality. However, not all of their proposals are feasible. Because sometimes their implementation turns out to be simply dangerous not only for apartment residents, but also for the entire apartment building. Sometimes designers' projects must be approached with great caution. This, in particular, applies to options for combining a room with a balcony or loggia. When there is a great desire to dismantle the threshold on the balcony.
In today's article we will touch upon this particular issue. So that you can decide whether in your case it is possible to knock down the threshold that is interfering with the matter. Moreover, when we say “threshold to the balcony,” we also mean the threshold to the loggia. Because, in principle, the course of our reasoning will concern both of these non-residential premises equally.
Removing the threshold for a balcony and loggia
Often, interior designers offer customers a wide variety of planning solutions that can transform a standard apartment into housing that meets all the owner’s requirements.
However, in practice, not everything proposed can be implemented. Designers, as creative people, sometimes include technical solutions in a design project that will threaten the safety of not only the apartment owners themselves, but also other residents of the house. For example, a popular type of redevelopment is to combine a balcony or loggia with a room/kitchen. At the same time, apartment owners have a desire not only to dismantle the window sill block, but also to knock down the high threshold between the loggia/balcony and the adjacent room. In this article we will look at whether it is possible to leave a loggia or balcony without a threshold.
Glass partition
You can often see projects in which the window sill block is replaced with a glass partition or accordion door. Sometimes it is even erected specifically to obtain BTI permission, and then dismantled. In addition, not every partition is coordinated. Double glazed windows and rigid fixation mechanisms at the top and bottom are required.
Advice:
Whether to dismantle the partition after receiving approval remains on the conscience of the apartment owner. As well as in principle the approval of redevelopment. But it is worth remembering that if problems arise with the construction of the house, and you are found guilty, then you will have to eliminate the consequences at your own expense. And sometimes answer in accordance with the criminal code.
Sliding doors to the balcony without threshold
Attaching a room or kitchen to a balcony is a fairly common type of apartment redevelopment. True, in its “pure form” the unification of these premises is impossible, because in this case the current regulations will be violated. Namely, Moscow Government decree No. 508-PP, which prohibits the connection of summer premises to the warm circuit of the apartment.
When dismantling the window sill block, it is necessary to install “French” glazing, which will keep the premises within the same boundaries and keep heat loss at a standard permissible level. “French” glazing usually means hinged doors to the floor, or a sliding glass partition. However, to create the effect of extending the space, owners often dismantle not only the window sill block, but also cut off the threshold between the balcony/loggia and the adjacent room. But it is most often not possible to remove the threshold on the balcony during the approval process for redevelopment.
Is it possible to remove it completely, or will a piece of the wall have to be treated somehow?
In the photo: the loggia in this project was attached to the living room, only the door and window were dismantled, and a bar counter was made from the window sill block
Association: Basic principles
“Combining a loggia with a room is a serious redevelopment that requires design and approval. And a balcony (unlike a loggia) cannot be combined with a room/kitchen at all,” reminds designer Ruslan Kirnichansky. “This operation will not be approved legally, at least not in Moscow.”
Let us remind you that redevelopment is legal if it is agreed upon with the housing inspection authorities and the BTI, and does not violate construction and fire safety standards.
The easiest way to combine a loggia and a room is to remove the window and door blocks without touching the structural parts: the window sill block, thresholds, the “beam” above the window, the walls on the sides of the window. Alas, these details can completely spoil the design concept if it is based on a panoramic view, good lighting and a certain furniture arrangement pattern.
The law prohibits simply erasing the boundaries between the loggia and the room - this is due to fire safety and the load on the thermal circuit of the apartment. “Instead of the old window or door unit, we must install a new one,” explains Anna Zhemereva, architect at ORT-interiors. “If you remove the window sill block, it is possible to make hinged or sliding glass partitions.”
At the time of acceptance, when the inspector from the BTI arrives, the doors must be in place, and they will be shown on the BTI plan. Whether you remove them later or leave them is the owner’s business and responsibility. But you must be well aware of the risks.
In the photo: in this project, a seating area and additional storage space were created on the insulated loggia. In place of the dismantled window sill block, a window with a glass door to the floor was installed
Loggia - your salvation in case of fire
“By connecting the loggia with the premises in any way, you expose yourself to risk,” says architect Anton Nikitin. — A balcony is a place where you stand during a fire so as not to die from carbon monoxide. This is the reason for its presence in every apartment, prescribed by GOSTs and SNiPs.” That is why, when approving the project, the inspector sends for permission to the fire inspection authorities (if the apartment has two loggias, there will be no problems with the permission). And that is precisely why we categorically do not recommend removing the partition between the loggia and the room, even after the BTI inspector has left.
When can you remove a window sill block?
“The answer to this question is as ambiguous as our standards. It all depends on the house - the material, series, design and year of construction,” says architect Vera Bedretdinova. The main factor influencing the approval of dismantling is the functionality built into the window sill by the architects. It can be a regular partition, “bind” the structure, or “pinch” the loggia slab.
“For example, in a panel, a window sill fragment of a wall may be a structural part and cannot be touched. But if the house is monolithic and there is just a pile of filler bricks under the window - this is the enclosing structure, it can be removed,” explains designer Vladimir Shlykov.
“We should not look for “legal” ways to demolish a block, but study the documentation in each specific case. In some houses, this block and the step under the door to the loggia literally help keep the balcony from collapsing,” warns designer Kirill Pavlov.
1. The type of house decides everything
“In 90% of cases, the window sill block is not a load-bearing structure,” adds architect Vladimir Bakhtoyarov. “Therefore, there is a legal opportunity to remove it.” The remaining 10% are most often panel houses. Dismantling the window sill block in a panel house is also possible. But not always. “In some of them - for example, the “P” series - there is a connection with a floor slab under the pier. Brick houses don’t have it, so dismantling the partition near the loggia is allowed,” says Ruslan Kirnichansky.
“Dismantling a window sill block in a monolithic brick house is possible provided there is a load-bearing frame of walls and columns with monolithic floor slabs,” explains architect Alexander Bondarenko. — In a block house, I would strongly advise against doing this, since the balcony slab here is simply pinched 20 cm deep between the vertical blocks, one of which is destroyed during reconstruction. There is a possibility of collapse."
“It is usually not economically feasible to make changes to the façade design,” shares architect Maria Argutina. — If the house is new, less than 20 years old, you will have to coordinate the decision with the authors of the project. But if it’s old, and even a monument, the business becomes absolutely unprofitable and often impossible.”
A technical opinion on whether it is possible to remove the window sill block should be obtained from the author of the house project.
“If we take the Moscow experience, then in panel houses built before 2007, they are usually allowed to remove the window sill block, leaving the threshold. In those built after 2007 according to the MNIITEP project, obtaining permission from the project authors for this procedure is fantastically difficult. As a rule, there are no problems with monolithic houses. But in brick, it all depends on whether the block pinches the loggia slab. Sometimes in brick buildings they allow the block to be demolished, but the threshold is not,” says designer Natalya Solntseva. In panel houses, the threshold cannot be removed.
In order not to focus attention on the threshold, designers often raise the floor in the adjacent area, forming a podium. The lintel on top is played out in the same way - it is hidden by the suspended ceiling.
2. Depends on how the plate is attached
“In most cases, the window sill can be removed, since the main load is carried by the beam - the lintel above the window,” says designer Olga Antsupova. “But an engineering calculation must confirm this,” she reminds.
So, when planning to dismantle the window sill block, you need to be prepared to go through the authorities - receiving calculations from the authors of the building project, permits from the management company and firefighters. Be patient - it is not so easy to coordinate and legalize the demolition of a window sill block.
In the photo: in this project, designer Maria Rozhnikova hid protruding elements in the podium
“The main part of the window sill block is not the working part of the load-bearing wall,” says architect Elena Pershina. — But the “step” under the balcony door and its continuation in the window sill block often “loads” the balcony floor slab. Another important point: legal demolition of a window sill block is possible only if it does not change the composition of the building’s facade. That is, the space of the balcony is not visible.”
How to beat a block if it cannot be removed
“If the window sill block does not bear a structural load, the designer has a choice,” says designer Anna Savina. — The block can be completely demolished and a partition or French door can be made. Or you can leave it partially and use it as a table base.”
“If a piece remains, you can play with it - make a bar counter, a worktop, a rack for decor, wine or flowers,” suggests Arina Plaksina.
In the photo: in this project, the designers replaced the glazing with a new one without jumpers, and lowered the window sill line a little, creating a place for relaxation there
Often, owners just need to add light to the room, so complete dismantling of the window sill block is not necessary; just enlarging the window opening is enough.
“The window and door remain on the plans. After all, this is the load-bearing wall of the house, so I try not to misbehave, I can cut down the window sill block a little,” says designer Anastasia Dunaeva. The trimmed block is used as a base for a small sofa or bench with pillows. “It is much easier and cheaper to decorate a window sill block than to demolish it,” says designer Irina Shvets.
What to do with the battery
Even if the window sill block is not an element of the supporting structure, housing inspectors may still not approve its demolition, since combining a room and a loggia increases the heated area. The previously mentioned French doors help get around this point.
“Without breaking the law, we can make glazing to the floor. The main problem is the radiator, which remains in the light opening,” reminds architect Lada Luneva.
“It is prohibited to move central heating radiators onto the loggia, since the pressure in the system changes and the rest of the users of the riser get worse,” says Artem Telegin, architect at pARTburo.
There are not many options for what to do with the battery. “Someone builds a “polnik” into a threshold or screed, if the thickness is possible. Someone moves the battery onto a wall on the side - it is usually extremely small, which means you will have to make a tall battery. Someone adds a heated floor - only electric is allowed; heated floors cannot be connected to central heating risers,” says Anna Zhemereva, architect at ORT-interiors.
“The heating radiator should remain indoors, not on the attached loggia - this is important,” reminds designer Korina Balanovskaya.
“The solution is to replace the battery with an electric convector. But even here you can’t do without calculations,” adds architect Vladimir Bakhtoyarov.
Whatever you come up with for heating the attached space, the loggia must be insulated, and the entire one - with walls, ceiling and floor. The latter is important, since the loggia slab can be “cold”, that is, thermally insulated from the floor slab, so as not to transfer cold from the street. In addition, you will need a vapor barrier. Do not rely “at random” - insulation must be comprehensive and based on calculations: they will help prevent freezing of walls and ceilings. Otherwise, condensation, dampness and mold will appear in the apartment.
When demolition of a window sill is useful
1.
There is a catastrophic lack of sun in the room. “If a window sill block can be removed and this will increase the insolation of the room, of course it’s better to remove it! It’s so nice to enjoy the sun in our harsh climate,” says designer Svetlana Kabanova.
In the photo: in this project, on a 15-meter loggia adjacent to the bedroom, it was possible to arrange and decorate an office where both spouses work
2.
The apartment is tiny - with the addition of a loggia, the usable area of the apartment increases, and it becomes possible to create a more interesting design. “The client paid for square meters of the loggia, why can’t he use these meters not only as a place for winter wheels? - says Yaroslav Root, head of Architectural Studio 2+2. “But, of course, there must be engineering calculations, safety comes first.”
Source: www.houzz.ru
Why do you need a threshold under the balcony door?
Is it possible to knock down the threshold onto a balcony or loggia? The reason for the prohibition on dismantling the threshold between the balcony and the room or the loggia and the kitchen is the design feature of the house. The possibility of obtaining permission for such redevelopment depends on the type of building where the apartment is located, or more precisely on the type of balcony.
The balcony is a cantilever platform protruding horizontally from the wall, with railings on all sides. The balcony slab can be external or be a continuation of the floor slab.
The balcony slab is supported in different ways: by the external load-bearing wall, the lightweight concrete floor panel of the next floor, consoles and brackets. The threshold also affects the strength of the balcony slab. Therefore, its dismantling can lead to weakening of the entire structure.
In addition, in some houses the threshold not only supports the balcony slab, that is, it is part of the supporting structure, but also additionally protects the apartment from the penetration of cold air currents from the street, since during the construction of the house the joint between the balcony slab and the floor slab is filled with thermal insulation material.
Therefore, it is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of whether it is possible to cut off the balcony threshold. It all depends on the design of the house, its type and series (if the house is serial).
Examples of dismantling a window sill block in brick houses while preserving the walls and threshold:
What is a “cold bridge”?
One of the problems that you may encounter if you remove a balcony threshold is the formation of “cold bridges”. This term refers to parts of a building structure with increased thermal conductivity, which lead to a number of negative consequences, including a decrease in the energy efficiency of the apartment, the appearance of mold, mildew, and condensation on window glass. Accordingly, at best, residents will face large bills for heating or constant cold in the apartment. It is estimated that due to “cold bridges” a building can lose up to half of all heat!
Redevelopment in one apartment can lead to problems in adjacent rooms. That is why the demolition of the threshold on the balcony is classified as work that needs to be performed only according to the project and after preliminary approval.
Is it possible to remove the threshold on the balcony in a panel house?
The majority of panel houses in Moscow (about 90%) were built according to designs by the MNIITEP design institute. As the author of the houses, MNIITEP prohibits the removal of the balcony threshold, since it contains reinforcement and is a load-bearing structure that supports the balcony slab and protects the floor slabs from freezing. The same applies to block apartment buildings.
Residents of brick houses will also most likely be denied approval for redevelopment with the demolition of the balcony threshold, since it may be a load-bearing structure, and therefore it is not safe to remove it during the redevelopment process. But the final word will remain with the specialists who will inspect the apartment. They will look at the structure of the house and say whether the threshold can be cut down or not.
Nowadays monolithic construction prevails in Moscow. And residents of monolithic houses were luckier than others when it came to dismantling the threshold when entering the balcony. One of the design features of such buildings is precisely that the balcony threshold in them performs, to a greater extent, not a constructive function, but a decorative one. Therefore, the authorities approving the redevelopment, as a rule, do not object to its dismantling.
Coordination of installation of a sliding door on a balcony without a threshold
If it is technically possible to remove the balcony threshold in the apartment, then it will have to be demolished along with the window sill block. The process of approving the redevelopment in this case does not have any significant differences, except for the composition of the design documentation: in addition to the project with a technical conclusion, you will also need to provide a thermal engineering calculation.
Otherwise, the approval takes place in accordance with the established procedure. A set of documents (a project with thermal engineering calculations, a technical report on the condition of the structures, a statement of the established form, an apartment plan from the BTI and documents confirming ownership of the apartment) are transferred to the MFC. From the MFC, documents on interdepartmental document flow will be submitted for consideration to the housing inspection, where a decision will be made on them no later than 45 days.
When the redevelopment is approved by the Moscow Housing Inspectorate, the applicant is given a sealed and signed order with a list of repair work permitted, which the owner must complete within a year. If necessary, the validity period of the order can be extended for another six months.
Redevelopment project with dismantling the window sill block and installing French glazing:
After completion of the repair, the owner or his official representative should contact the owner again. This time to submit an application for drawing up a certificate of completed reconstruction.
After the application is received by the Moscow Housing Inspectorate, the applicant is contacted by telephone and a day and time for the inspection is scheduled. Acceptance of redevelopment by the commission consists of reconciling the redevelopment with the previously agreed upon design documentation.
If all the work was carried out according to the project, then an act of completed reconstruction and redevelopment is drawn up. And then an employee of the Bureau of Technical Inventory measures the apartment and enters all the changes made into the technical documentation of the BTI.
Fine for demolished balcony threshold
It should be borne in mind that the illegal dismantling of a threshold on a balcony or loggia is an administrative offense (unauthorized redevelopment). If this fact is detected, the supervisory authority issues a fine and an order to approve the redevelopment or to return the apartment to its original layout. Currently, the fine for illegal redevelopment ranges from two to two thousand five hundred rubles (for each owner). However, this norm applies specifically to Moscow. In the vast majority of districts of the Moscow region, there are no regulations at all for the approval of previously completed redevelopment.
If the redevelopment with the demolition of the window sill was carried out without violating building rules, then you can try to legalize it. To do this, a set of documents is provided to the Moscow Housing Inspectorate through the MFC - an application for drawing up an act of completed reconstruction, BTI plans (in red and black lines), title documents for the apartment and a technical report from a self-regulatory design organization (with SRO approval), confirming the safety of the repairs carried out - construction work.
Next, a housing inspector comes to the apartment to check the redevelopment’s compliance with building codes and technical conclusions. If there are no discrepancies, an act of completed redevelopment is drawn up. In addition, the owner will be punished with a fine for illegally carried out redevelopment. The inspector will issue a receipt for payment of the fine upon acceptance of the redevelopment.
Then an employee of the Technical Inventory Bureau is invited to the apartment to take measurements and draw up a new technical passport. After this, the illegally performed redevelopment receives legal status.
Our company has been developing redevelopment projects and technical reports for a long time. If you need development or approval of project documentation, you can contact our organization. We will be happy to advise you on all issues related to apartment redevelopment. And if necessary, we can develop a project with a technical report and perform heat loss calculations after dismantling the window sill block and threshold.
If you do not have the desire and time to collect the entire package of documents, we can offer you a turnkey redevelopment approval service. In this case, you will only need a notarized power of attorney.
Source
Types of balcony thresholds
Any material is suitable for building or decorating a small area, as long as it is combined with the surrounding interior. Brick or wood blocks are useful to create a slightly raised structure. If the base is already ready and only decorative cladding is needed, you can use plastic, ceramic tiles, thin wooden elements, or laminate. Leveling is done using concrete mortar.
Variety of shapes and materials
Sometimes it is enough to paint the finished ledge - and the interior becomes complete. Brief instructions will help improve the transition from the room to the balcony, make it durable and comfortable.
How to make a brick threshold
Brick is a finished three-dimensional part, so it is not suitable for cladding, but is used in two cases:
To mask a small gap, a low concrete elevation is usually enough, and it is irrational to erect a bulky structure made of cement. It is appropriate to use brick if the walls of the house are built from a similar material - if the extension is completely stylized “to match the wall”, a decorative coating will not be needed.
Brick base for finishing
Before making or restoring a threshold on the balcony, a solution is prepared from cement and sand according to the standard 1:3 scheme; you can also use a dry mixture for construction work. In order for the structure to last longer, the solution must be applied immediately after preparation.
If the area for masonry construction has noticeable unevenness or is a depression (groove), it is better to make a cement screed. Outside, the brick step is left in its natural state (with neatly fitted bricks and even seams) or covered with tiles (laminate, plastic). It is better when the floor is finished with the same material over the entire area.
Ceramic tile cladding
If you plan to lay ceramics on the concrete base of a loggia or balcony, we recommend finishing the threshold of the balcony door in the same vein. If there is no protrusion, but there is a need for one, we first build a structure made of brick (as described above) or concrete screed (we will discuss this below). When calculating the number of tiles, do not forget about the transition to the apartment - usually the surface area of the step on both sides is taken into account.
The process of finishing steps with tiles
The requirements for ceramics are as follows: it must have dimensions convenient for installation and a non-slip surface, match the color or texture of the walls, and be classified as “for the floor.” If the elements are large (for example, 30 cm x 40 cm), and the step is narrow, use a tile cutter to divide the tiles into pieces. The installation order is free: nothing will change if you first repair the floor, and then the transition, and vice versa.
Tools you may need:
Materials: dry adhesive mixture for preparing the solution, water, grout, crosses.
Laying ceramic tiles
Immediately before the procedure of gluing the tiles, dilute the cement mortar (glue) and mix it thoroughly with a drill with a special attachment. Using a spatula, take a small amount of glue, apply it to the back side of the tile and glue it to the brick or concrete base. For better adhesion, the base surface can be pre-primed.
We insert dividing crosses between the tiles. When the glue dries, remove the crosses and fill the gaps with grout that matches the color. Remove excess with a damp sponge.
Simple threshold made of wood or laminate
Instead of a cement ledge, you can build a box from wood and cover it with boards or laminated panels. The wooden structure looks harmonious in a room with a similar floor covering and walls lined with clapboard or wood-like plastic. The advantage of wood is that working with it is easy and pleasant - even a novice carpenter can do it.
Treated Wood Panels
So, we need:
A hacksaw, drill, screwdriver, carpenter's or joiner's tool can be bought at a construction supermarket or rented, but most often it is found in your own pantry.
First, we assemble and fix the frame from the bars: we fasten the frame to the concrete slab with dowels, then we fix the racks on the sides and along the sides, and mount another frame on top. The result was a box, empty inside. We connect the posts and crossbars with metal corners. To save heat, the box can be filled with mineral wool and covered on all sides with waterproofing film.
One side of the structure is adjacent to the wall, the rest is covered with plywood or chipboard sheets. Instead of self-tapping screws, glue or liquid nails are sometimes used, which is appropriate for a dry room. The result is a strong box with smooth surfaces, which can be lined with clapboard or laminate. The first option is treated with impregnation and varnish, the second is initially decorative.
Laminate step into room
Installation
Before starting work, clean the area that you plan to use for the threshold. Remove everything extraneous, outline the contours, take measurements of length, width, height. Next, start preparing the tiles - they need to be cut into the required sizes.
Ceramic threshold
Note. It is better to carry out cutting with a special machine - the work will be faster, safer, and of better quality.
The next step is formwork. For it, use a couple of wooden beams; they need to be secured in the designated places. Carefully place the pieces of the slab for the sides of the threshold parallel to the bars, so that they become part of the formwork.
After this, make a solution of sand and cement (3 to 1, respectively), fill the formwork with it, and cover it with a slab on top. The cement hardens within 24 hours; during this time it is forbidden to walk on the thresholds; it is better not to touch them at all. After a day, remove the dividing crosses and rub the seams.
IMPORTANT! In order for the threshold on the cement balcony to harden properly, become strong, you cannot step on it for the next three days!
Brick threshold
The threshold made from sand-lime bricks is durable, comfortable, and beautiful. It is especially beneficial to use bricks if you want to make a noticeable difference between the floor of the room and the threshold.
Clean the surface on the threshold and prime it (you can prepare a mixture for this purpose: a kilo of plaster mixture per half liter of water). The bricks are laid closely, and before laying they are moistened with water. After laying, tap each brick with a trowel. Give it a chance to dry.
Brick steps to the balcony
Apply plaster mixture to the top of the bricks. When dry, prime the entire structure and let it dry. As a decorative material, you can use tiles set on tile adhesive. The edges of the threshold are formed with T-shaped corners. They are placed between bricks and tiles. You can use another finishing material, for example, laminate, this is especially true when the entire balcony is finished with laminate.
Plastic threshold
This threshold looks especially good on a balcony if a plastic window-balcony block is installed. Installation is quite simple, fastening occurs with self-tapping screws. This building material will retain heat perfectly, looks neat, and is quite beautiful. True, it will not last as long as the others.
Wooden thresholds
A structure made of OSB mounted on a wooden frame is an option for connoisseurs of chic beauty. This design is not capable of letting cold air through at all, so it is great to keep the room warm.
Wooden threshold
To acquire such a threshold, you must first assemble a sheathing of bars. In this case, it is better to install the bars around the perimeter of the balcony threshold and in its center - this will protect the material from subsidence and sagging.
So, first of all, start installing the frame; its dimensions should correspond to the dimensions of the threshold. If necessary, trim the ends with a hacksaw.
When the frame is ready, place it in place and use a pencil to mark the inside lines of the frame. Using a hammer drill, drill holes for the dowels near the marked lines. When they are secured, install the sheathing frames. Screw self-tapping screws into the bars through the holes in the corners - this will tightly fix the sheathing to the floor.
Using a tape measure, determine the dimensions of the threshold, mark the OSB sheet along them, and cut out the structure. Before installation, you can additionally insulate the building. Next, screw the slab onto the sheathing with self-tapping screws.
Note. Make sure that the OSB sheets fit as closely as possible. Linoleum or laminate can be used as a facing material.
Instructions for making a plastic threshold
For glazing, PVC profiles are often used - safe, durable, airtight, and have a long service life. Window sills are also made from a thick sheet of plastic covered with laminate. Therefore, you can use PVC parts to decorate other interior elements; they will look appropriate. For example, wall cladding with comfortable wide panels can be supplemented with a plastic threshold for the balcony - this is one of the most budget-friendly and affordable solutions.
Wide threshold made of plastic panel
Preparation of material and tools
Externally, the step will resemble a window sill, that is, it will consist of a wide panel closed on the sides with plugs. If the length of the inner part is large, you will have to use several strips connected to each other. Therefore, it is necessary to purchase plastic parts according to the dimensions of the working area and additional elements for decorating the cut sides if they protrude above the floor level. For point supports, 1-2 bars are enough, for a cement screed - a bag of dry mixture.
Jigsaw for cutting wood and plastic blanks
Option No. 1 - on a cement screed
The screed is preferable for preparing the base for any type of finishing, as it has the necessary strength and levels the floor surface. It is better to carry out all the cement work at the same time, that is, before erecting and finishing the threshold for the balcony, start preparing the entire area. This way you can save on material and time. However, the processes of glazing and laying floors most often extend over a period of time, and some activities have to be done separately.
Finished cement step
Screed on a small area is prepared according to general rules:
We prepare the solution according to the standard scheme or instructions included with the finished dry mixture. Don’t expect the screed to dry quickly; complete readiness will occur only after 1-2 weeks. This is a disadvantage of installing concrete structures, and if it is necessary to urgently carry out repair work, you should choose another method.
When the cement step “ripens”, remove the blind area, fill the resulting gaps with plaster or polyurethane foam and install a plastic panel cut to size. To fix it, we place it on liquid nails or foam. We decorate the sides in the same way, masking the joints with sealant. The advantage is that if the plastic threshold on the balcony cracks, it can always be repaired by simply replacing the panel.
Option No. 2 - on point supports
This method is good if a minimum of time is allocated for repairs. Installation of a plastic blank on point supports is completed within several hours, with most of the allotted time being spent preparing the supports. First, we calculate how much material is needed - the more supports, the more stable the structure.
Plastic threshold with extension to the balcony
So, in order for the step to be stable, it is necessary to level the base and prepare supports of equal height. A thin layer of cement can be used for leveling. We will cut the supports from 50 mm x 50 mm bars. Let’s assume that we need 12 supports, each 10 cm high, which means that it’s enough to carefully cut a 120 cm long block into equal 10 cm pieces.
There is no need to grind or grind the sides if you make a perfectly even cut. When doing the work with a hacksaw or a hand jigsaw, you can get a bevel, so we use an electric saw. If any irregularities or protrusions appear, remove them with a file. So, the stands are ready - we place them at the same distance from each other and fix them with liquid nails.
Broken threshold due to improper installation technology
Now the most important thing: we lay down the pre-cut plastic blank. Three important things need to be clarified:
This is easy to verify experimentally. If everything is fine, we attach the panel to the supports, having previously lubricated each of them on top with mounting foam or liquid nails. We cut out the side elements and glue them too. The transition from the room to the loggia or balcony is ready.
Balcony finishing with plastic
How to sheathe slopes with plasterboard
There are several options for finishing slopes on the balcony with plasterboard sheets. In any case, work with this material should begin with vapor barrier of the visible layer of polyurethane foam. A special tape is used for this.
Adhesive-based vapor barrier tape
Frame finishing method
Installation of a metal frame is necessary if you are working with large openings or similarly covering an entire wall.
The work is carried out as follows:
- Dowels are used to secure the U-profile guides perpendicular to the floor. This is done on the outer and inner corners of the slopes. In some cases, one of the profiles is fixed directly to the plastic frame.
- For structural rigidity, horizontal C-profiles are attached between the vertical ones.
- The finished frame is sheathed with sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard, fixing them with self-tapping screws. It is better to start work from the side elements.
- All joints are first puttied and then coated with silicone sealant.
- After all the finishing work, the outer corners are masked with a plastic corner, which is attached with glue.
You can additionally insulate the slopes with mineral wool or polystyrene foam, placing them in the cells of the frame.
Metal frame for covering a window or doorway
>
Glue method for finishing slopes
It is advisable to attach drywall with glue only on slopes that are small in width and not in doorways. The glue does not harden instantly, so the gypsum board element may move from its specified position during installation. It is much easier to fix this with a small coverage area.
There are two options for attaching drywall with glue - behind the frame and directly on it. Installation on the frame is carried out in cases where the distance between it and the slope is too small.
When attaching the sheathing to the frame structure, work begins from the upper wall of the opening and perform the following actions:
- Using a knife, make a recess along the perimeter of the frame corresponding to the thickness of the plasterboard blank.
- Insert it into the resulting gap.
- For more reliable fixation and improved quality of thermal insulation, the place where the gypsum board is fixed is foamed (from the inside).
- Insulation is placed in the resulting space between the wall and the drywall. They fill the gap approximately ⅔.
- The edge of the slope is adjusted to the outer corner of the opening and fixed with drywall adhesive.
Installation of gypsum boards outside the perimeter of the frame
If you want to sheathe gypsum boards and balcony walls, the slope must be level with the sheathing installed on them.
The material is fastened to a plastic frame using an L-shaped profile. It is fixed to the window structure with self-tapping screws and coated inside with drywall adhesive. Then the workpiece is inserted there and all actions are performed by analogy with the previous installation method.
Scheme for installing drywall on a window frame
If with the frame method it is recommended to start work from the side walls of the opening, then with the glue method - from the top wall.
Related videos
Video materials will help you choose how to design the transition from the room to the balcony:
Economical solution from a piece of linoleum:
As you can see, creating a comfortable transition from a room to an adjacent room is not so difficult; the main thing is to follow the technology of working with the selected materials and not forget about the features of interior design. If you are not confident in your abilities, entrust the work to experienced installers who will quickly and accurately complete your order.
Source
Linoleum threshold
- A piece of linoleum is applied to the surface and the cutting locations are marked. It is necessary to cut carefully so that the joint with the wall is as smooth as possible.
- Apply liquid nails to the surface of the window sill, level the material over the entire surface and press the canvas. Particular attention should be paid to the joints.
- The final step will be to install the baseboard and install the decorative metal corner. In addition to decorative purposes, these elements are intended to cover the joints of the material.
Why do you need a threshold under the balcony door?
It all depends on the type of your house, or more precisely on the type of your balcony.
Note: We must understand that in houses there are balconies and loggias that are different from them.
A loggia, unlike a balcony, is a structure of a house, and the floor of the loggia is an external or built-in part of the ceiling. A balcony is a separate cantilever structure that is connected to the structure of the house and is subject to bending load.
The bending load on the balcony slab is compensated by the vertical load of the upper floor slab, which includes the balcony threshold, or by supporting consoles or beams.
Conclusion 1. The threshold of a balcony door can be part of the design of a bend-compensating balcony slab.
But here, too, not everything is simple. I will show you a drawing of four types of balconies.
Of these structures, it is the balcony structure in Fig. (a) that is most vulnerable when the balcony threshold is demolished.
Conclusion 2. If your balcony is an external slab with a joint somewhere under the threshold, you should not dismantle the threshold, this will weaken the strength of the structure.
Preparatory work
The first step is to make the base. There are two options for creating a base for the threshold: from brick or from cement-sand mortar. If you already have a level base that is suitable in height, then you can skip this step and immediately begin finishing.
Note!
The height of the base of the threshold is made taking into account the fact that a layer of finishing material will be laid on top. The point is that the finished balcony threshold does not interfere with the opening and closing of the balcony door.
Instructions for creating a brick base:
The brick base is made when there is a large difference between the balcony frame and the floor (not less than the height of the brick).
- Leveling and cleaning the base. The smoother the base, the easier it will be to lay the brick.
- Prepare cement-sand mortar following the instructions on the bag.
- Distributing the mortar onto the base and laying the first brick. Next, you need to apply the mortar to the end of the brick so that all the seams are filled. Then the next bricks are laid. Usually one row is enough for a nut.
- After all the bricks have been laid, it is necessary to apply a layer of mortar to the entire surface of the brick row and level it.
- After the mixture has dried, moisten the surface with a small amount of water and treat with a grater.
Balcony threshold and warmth in the apartment
In addition to strength, the threshold serves, according to design theory, to block cold air flows from the street into the apartment.
This threshold assignment, by definition, does not bother us. If there is an idea to demolish the threshold, then the balcony will certainly be insulated, and you should not expect freezing from the side of your balcony. If under your balcony there is a “bare” balcony that is not insulated or even glazed, then the demolished threshold from the lower floor may freeze. If you suspect the possibility of freezing, consider insulating the floor structure.
Is it possible to remove the threshold of a balcony door, conclusions
The correct way to answer this question, whether it is possible to remove the threshold of a balcony door, is simple.
1. Removing the threshold is a change in the structure of the house, possibly the supporting structure, which means you need permission, or at least approval for such a redevelopment. The approval authorities will look at the structure of the house and say whether the threshold can be demolished or not.
2. Option two. If you see that the threshold is clearly decorative (made of wood or brick), feel free to demolish it and make a single-level floor in the room and balcony.
3. Option three. If the threshold is not high, raise the floor level in the room and on the balcony to the level of the threshold. To facilitate the construction of the floor, use dry (such as Knauf superfloor) rather than wet cement screed.
If it is not possible to remove the threshold of the balcony door or it is very high, there are many options to beat it using various finishing materials.
Source
Ceiling made of plastic panels
Ceiling made of plastic panels
at the end of the renovation, money generally became tight)))) I calculated that a rack “superchrome” for the ceiling of my bathroom would cost about 4000 re, and just from plastic panels 1.5 thousand. The difference is noticeable, after all)) But the ceiling is not a warm floor - it can be replaced later. My point is that I don't really like these panels at all. So, actually, the question is: I’m going to make a frame from PPN and PP, just like for gypsum boards. Only water for panels: WHAT AND WITH WHAT STEP.
Source: homemasters.ru