Installation of balconies, loggias, bay windows in buildings with various structural systems

Instructions for installation and repair of balcony slabs

The balcony slab is the basis of your balcony. The performance properties of the balcony structure depend on its strength characteristics and dimensions. Read a review of balcony glazing technologies with aluminum profiles.

Specifications

Types of balcony slabs, their main parameters and dimensions are regulated by GOST 25697-83.

Balcony slabs are divided into the following types:

• PB – flat solid beams;
• PBK – flat solid cantilever;
• PBR – ribbed cantilever.

Balcony slabs are manufactured in lengths from 1200 mm to 7200 mm, widths from 1200 mm to 1800 mm. Standard dimensions of balcony slabs: length – 3275 mm, width 800 mm.

The thickness of the balcony slab in brick and panel houses or in Khrushchev varies in the range from 150 mm to 220 mm, depending on the type of slab, its size and weight.

A series of balcony slabs consists of several groups of numbers and letters; the series is deciphered as follows: the main group of letters and numbers is the type of slab, the length and width of the slab in decimeters. Additional groups of numbers and letters may indicate the following information: if the balcony slab is equipped with an emergency exit, then indicate which side of the slab it is located on, left or right; class of prestressed reinforcement, type of concrete, if it is light; for heavy concrete indicates the type of finishing of the upper front surface.

• Balcony slabs PB are reinforced concrete hollow-core floor slabs. Dimensions of balcony slab PB 1: product length 3440 mm, product width 1400, product thickness 160 mm.
• In the monolithic version, the balcony slab can be integral with the floor slab.
• The cantilever balcony slab is fastened by pinching it into the wall on one side or two opposite sides. Suitable for buildings with heavy walls, such as brick with reinforced concrete floors.

Calculation and device

The balcony slab for brick walls has a special ledge to ensure that the slab enters a special niche in the wall formed by reinforced concrete underlays walled into the wall. Load-bearing brick walls, as a rule, are made of two or more bricks, so the penetration of the balcony slab into the wall is 300 mm or more.

The unit for supporting a balcony slab on a brick wall is a junction of horizontal and vertical planes. Moreover, the support unit can only be implemented on a load-bearing wall. The support unit is calculated to determine the permissible loads, in accordance with GOST 956-91.

The stability of a balcony slab against overturning is calculated by comparing the overturning moment with the restraining moment from the weight of the structure.

The picture shows the strengthening of the balcony slab on the top floor

Installation technology

The technology for fastening balcony slabs depends on the material from which the building is constructed.

When building a brick house, the balcony slab is attached to the masonry walls.

In a large-panel building, balcony slabs are sandwiched between the building blocks. In both versions, balcony slabs are welded to reinforced concrete lintels and floors using anchors connected to the reinforcement frame.

Extension of the balcony along the base of the slab

Extending the balcony along the base of the slab beyond its limits will provide additional usable space. But before you begin work to increase the balcony along the base of the slab, calculate all the loads of the balcony structure on the slab to prevent it from collapsing. As a rule, to expand the balcony, metal brackets made from steel angles are used. Read the recommendations on which canopy to choose for a balcony.

The photo shows an example of expanding a balcony along the base of the slab

Another example of expanding a balcony shower

Strengthening

To reinforce the balcony slab, a reinforcing mesh is used, mounted from wire with a diameter of 5 mm, the rods of which are connected by welding or special soft wire. The mesh is laid on the slab and filled with concrete.

Balcony glazing will place significant additional loads on the balcony slab and railing. Therefore, before glazing, it is advisable to strengthen the balcony slab (mount a supporting metal frame and fix it to the wall panel with anchors) and strengthen the parapet. Read a review of balcony glazing technologies with aluminum profiles.

Strengthening a balcony slab in a panel house can be done using a cement screed method.

Repair of balcony slabs

Work to restore the balcony slab is considered a major overhaul. This type of work is carried out if the destruction of the slab has not yet reached the base, and the reinforcement is damaged by corrosion no more than 10%. The process of restoring a balcony slab includes: cleaning the slab, renewing the reinforcement frame, installing formwork, applying concrete screed, and strengthening the parapet. Slabs with more significant damage are classified as emergency and must be replaced. If destruction of the balcony slab is detected, it is necessary to contact the management company with an application to create a commission and draw up a report on the degree of destruction of the balcony and possibly recognizing it as an emergency.

Read instructions on finishing a balcony with siding on this page.

The main insulation of the balcony slab is carried out from the inside of the balcony, and additional insulation of the balcony slab from below, of course, will not be superfluous if the neighbors below insulate their ceiling, for example, with expanded polystyrene. A guide to internal insulation of a balcony is here: https://balkonus-pro.ru/uteplenie/rukovodstvo-po-vnutrennemu-utepleniyu-balkona.html.

To waterproof a balcony slab, you can use: coating waterproofing materials on a bitumen-polymer basis; penetrating compounds; roll or sheet waterproofing materials.

Cost of balcony slabs

The approximate cost of balcony slabs is from RUB 5,500/piece. up to 20,000 rub./pcs.

Where to buy balcony slabs?

Where to buy in Moscow:

1. MZHBK LLC, Beregovoy proezd, 5. Tel.: +7 (499) 703-36-20;
2. Group, 3rd proezd Maryina Roshcha, 40, building 1. Tel.;
3. LLC Monolit Stroy Group, Chermyansky pr., 7, building 1, of. 3606. Tel..

Where to buy in St. Petersburg:

1. ,etc. Piskarevsky, 63A. Tel.: +7 (950) 025-50-60;
2. , st. Domostroitelnaya, 1. Tel.: (812) 612-08-93;
3. , st. Efimova, 1/4, office. 37N. Tel.: +7 (812) 458-01-60.

Video

See the video for an example of expanding a balcony along the base of a slab:

Recently, balconies have become often used as living spaces. Various types of glazing are actively installed on them, insulation is carried out, the outside of the balcony is sheathed with siding, balconies are combined with living rooms, all these manipulations place a significant load on the balcony slab, which can lead to its destruction. It is recommended to contact specialists to carry out finishing work on the balcony.

Differences between a loggia and a balcony

The loggia slab is a continuation of the floor of the room, and three sides are closed with solid walls

The loggia has a slab as a base, which is a continuation of the floor of the room, and three walls, which are a continuation of the walls of the house. The upper load-bearing slab serves as the roof of the loggia, the parapet is made of a concrete slab.

The loggia has three sides covered with capital slabs, and only the front part is open. It can withstand significant weight loads. If central heating is installed on the loggia (for this you need to obtain permission from the local authorities), it will be considered a living area.

The balcony is mounted on consoles and has only one common wall with the building

When constructing a loggia, hollow floor slabs measuring 1200x5800 mm are used. The slab length of 5.8 m is enough to build loggias for two apartments - each 2900 mm long.

The balcony protrudes beyond the load-bearing wall of the building, is most often mounted on consoles, has one common wall with the building, and three sides are open. Even if there is no parapet on it, but there is a platform in the form of a protruding slab, such a structure is also considered a balcony.

Central heating is not allowed on the balcony; it cannot withstand significant weight loads. There have been cases when slabs subjected to significant loads in 9-story buildings broke.

For the construction of balconies, a slab of 800 x 3275 mm is used.

Do-it-yourself overhaul of a balcony in a panel house: the right recommendations

When constructing new panel houses, the balconies in them are made according to standard templates and most often do not carry any particular attractiveness. They are distinguished by a number of design features, the absence of any decorative finishing, some of them are not even glazed. For these and other personal reasons, it is worth considering the option of reconstructing a balcony room. If the prices for installation work performed by specialists are beyond your means, then you can safely take on the repairs yourself.

Related article: Making the floor on the balcony with your own hands

Standard balcony of a panel house

Assessing the condition of a balcony in a panel house

Let's look at the stages of a major overhaul of a loggia with our own hands using the example of panel houses of type P 44. The platforms in them differ in their frame features from standard balconies, and in appearance they resemble a zigzag shape. The right approach to balcony reconstruction will significantly increase the free space. It can easily accommodate a wardrobe, a coffee table with chairs, and, if necessary, you can organize a personal office.

The load-bearing capacity of balcony structures in panel houses is famous for their long service life. Finishing materials used in construction are rarely of high quality. In a panel house of type P 44, it is necessary to carry out repairs on the interior and exterior decoration.

Renovated balcony - a cozy corner in the apartment

Insulate the balcony: walls, ceiling and floor

How to retain heat is a question that is especially acute for those living in panel houses, since the panel itself is not very capable of retaining heat. It “leaves” through a concrete rib, which has high thermal conductivity, and even through interpanel seams that are not insufficiently insulated.

The thermal insulation layer, especially for cold latitudes, is installed on all walls, floor surfaces and parapets.

Insulation of balcony walls is carried out in the following order.

• A supporting frame is installed under the thermal insulation.
• Install insulation boards. When choosing a material, pay attention to its environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity, non-flammability, vapor permeability, lack of shrinkage, and thickness. The most popular insulators are polystyrene foam, mineral wool, polyethylene foam and others.

To eliminate the negative effects of moisture, the insulation must be vapor-insulated using a special vapor-proof film. Penofol, a polyethylene foam, has shown itself to be excellent in this capacity. This thermal insulator has an additional reflective effect due to its foil coating.

Air circulation between the vapor barrier layer and the interior finishing should also be provided. The best option is to install another frame, taking into account the thickness of the air cushion of at least 1-2 cm.

Exterior decoration

The need for exterior finishing of a balcony for houses of type P 44 is not a rare case. There are a number of fundamental rules for choosing materials for exterior finishing:

• Only high-quality materials that are durable and have a long service life are acceptable.
• The material for exterior finishing must be able to withstand any weather conditions and precipitation well.
• Affordable price.
• Easy to install with your own hands.

External finishing of the balcony with corrugated sheeting

The most suitable according to the above criteria are:

Installation of balcony cladding with vinyl siding

For DIY repairs, polyvinyl chloride (vinyl) siding is ideal. The material is lightweight, has high strength and reliability, and is easy to install. This material looks good on balconies in a panel house of type P 44. Before starting work, you need to prepare:

1. Vinyl siding (the number of square meters is determined from the volume of the sheathed area + 15-20% is added for additional trimming).
2. Wooden beam 40x40mm for installation of the sheathing (the length depends on the perimeter of the lower part of the balcony).
3. Starting strips mounted at the bottom of the structure (the number depends on the length of the sheathing beam).
4. External corners to hide siding corner joints.
5. Fasteners (anchors with dowels, self-tapping screws).
6. Window sill strips.
7. Installation tools: grinder with discs for metal and wood, hammer drill with a set of peaks and drills, level, screwdriver with attachments, screwdrivers, hammers.

Installation of siding outside the balcony

Sheathing begins with the installation of wooden sheathing. Type P 44 houses have from 9 to 16 floors, so do high-rise work with your own hands in strict compliance with all safety regulations.

Important! If the siding is planned to be installed in a vertical position, then the sheathing is mounted horizontally and vice versa!

To do this, racks made of wooden beams are attached to the corners of the balcony using anchor bolts. Nuts will help to better secure the sheathing from the inside. Then horizontal bars are installed along the upper and lower edges of the structure. Now you can attach the vertical posts of the sheathing.

At the final stage of repair, the siding is attached to the wooden structure. Special outer corners are screwed to the corners of the sheathing, and the ends of the product will be inserted into them.

The balcony of a panel house is covered with siding

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation begins with a starting strip, which is attached to the lower wooden beam using self-tapping screws. Now each subsequent plank is inserted into the previous one and fixed. The topmost span is not mounted; instead, a strip for the window sill will be installed. When screwing in self-tapping screws, it is important to leave 0.5-1 mm as a gap, which will prevent the siding from deforming during thermal expansion.

Installation of balconies, loggias, bay windows in buildings with various structural systems.

Balconies:
This is an open area that is fenced to a partial height.

Installation of balconies.

1) For longitudinal load-bearing walls:

– Balcony cantilever slab

-Cantilever release of the floor slab

2) For transverse load-bearing walls. Frame walls:

2.1. Self-supporting walls.

– The front edge of the balcony slab rests on the posts, and the rear edge of the balcony slab extends beyond the outer wall to a minimum thickness (50-70mm). When using racks, temperature-sedimentary deformations of racks and walls may occur (it is not recommended to do this in a building higher than 16 floors).

– The rear edge of the balcony slab extends a minimum distance onto the outer wall, and the front edge is suspended on ties (rigid reinforcement or cables), either to the transverse load-bearing walls, or to the overlying ceiling. In this case, the length of the balcony slab is equal to the constructive pitch, the length between columns or walls.

– Vertical strands. The covering slabs are attached to the cantilever outlets. In this case, the slab should not be the same size as the column spacing.

– Cantilever floor slab pinched by transverse load-bearing walls.

2.2. Curtain walls

– The slab rests with its rear edge on the load-bearing transverse wall, and with its front edge on the racks

– The balcony slab rests on supporting elements that are attached to the transverse walls or columns.

– The balcony slab rests floor by floor on the console of the columns.

-700-1100 – cantilever slabs

-1200-1400 – beam schemes

– with racks – for architectural reasons

Slab thickness:

from approximately 100-120 mm.

Slope from the wall 1-2%

If the balcony is not glazed -

need to do waterproofing

Balcony floor -

wood or tile

Balcony mark –

below the room level by 50-70 mm, and below the threshold level by 100-200 mm.

Balcony fencing-

Plastic, glass, fiberglass, brick

Fence height –

1.05 m. – multi-storey, 1.20 m. – high-rise

If the balcony is not glazed -

the fence does not need to be brought to the slab

Loggias:

The presence of side walls (cheeks) is the difference between loggias and balconies.

1) Recessed (built-in). They occupy that part of the room that could be part of the room.

For longitudinal load-bearing walls:

3) The loggia slab rests on attached walls, which are installed on their foundations

For transverse walls:

1) Sunken loggias. Relies on transverse walls.

2) Protruding walls. The loggia slab rests on the continuation of the transverse load-bearing wall, and the loggia walls are curtain walls, attached to the transverse load-bearing walls (with the upper edge), and with the lower edge attached to the wall using embedded parts.

For external curtain walls:

In this case, the walls of the loggia rest on a bracket, which rests on a transverse load-bearing wall.

1) Sunken loggias

2) Protruding loggias

– The loggia slabs rest on side walls, which stand on their own foundation.

– Slabs and walls rest on consoles of columns (floor by floor).

Loggia design elements.

– loggia slabs are separate from the floor slabs (to accommodate an external wall or insulating material)

– The floor of the loggia is the same as that of the balcony, but if there is a heated room under or above the loggia, then the loggia slab is insulated (vapor barrier on the side of the room).

–

The fence is like a balcony, but there is no gap between the fence and the slab (but holes are made in the corners to allow water to escape).

Bay windows:

Removal from the front part of the premises. Either the entire height of the building, or not the entire height (hanging).

1) Longitudinal load-bearing walls:

– Standing and resting on its foundation.

a) The bay window slab is an extension of the ceiling slab

b) Console release of bay windows

2) Transverse load-bearing walls:

– Standing bay window (rests on its foundation)

– Hanging (rests on bracket consoles clamped in transverse load-bearing walls)

3) Frame-load-bearing walls:

Hanging ones rest on cantilevered floors or on a cantilevered outer row of columns

For hanging bay windows, the slab must be insulated (insulation on the outside, and vapor barrier on the room side). If there is a balcony above the bay window, then the ceiling of the bay window is insulated (the insulation is from the outside). If the bay window is brought under the roof, then it is made combined.

This page was last modified: 2016-08-14; Page copyright infringement

Interior decoration

After completing the exterior work, it is necessary to give the balcony a cozy, warm and elegant appearance. To do this, use the following materials to choose from: PVC panels, plastic lining or plasterboard. The easiest to install with your own hands are PVC panels.

The walls of the balcony are covered with plastic panels

Wall and ceiling cladding with PVC panels

Before starting work, you must prepare the following materials:

1. Wooden beam 20x20 for installation of the sheathing (the number of square meters is calculated from the area of ​​the room).
2. Polystyrene foam or penofol for insulating walls and ceilings.
3. PVC panels: U-shaped profile, H-profile, F-profile (have widths: 0.250, 0.3, 0.5 m; lengths: 5.9, 2.95 and 2.6 m). To accurately determine the number of parts for repair, measure the perimeter of the room and divide by the selected panel width.
4. Polyurethane foam.
5. Self-tapping screws with a press washer and for wood.
6. Tools: hammer drill with pobedit drills, grinder with discs for metal and wood, screwdrivers, hammers, screwdriver.

Installation of lathing for covering a balcony with plastic panels

The first step is to install the wooden sheathing according to the principle of exterior finishing using vinyl siding with horizontal guides. We insert sheets of foam plastic into the spaces between the frame, securing them with dowels. Then the starting corner panel is installed in the corner of the balcony where it is most difficult to work.

Each subsequent panel is inserted into the previous one using special grooves. We use the F-profile to go around the corners of the balcony. In places where the wall meets the ceiling, we install ceiling plinths. The damping profile is installed at the end of the work.

Insulation of wall and ceiling surfaces

We recommend using thermal insulation boards as the main material. They are fixed to the ceiling and walls throughout the entire area. To fix the slabs, bitumen-based mastic is used; only it can withstand temperature changes and high humidity. Apply the solution to each piece of material so that its surface is almost completely covered with the adhesive. The ceiling is insulated in the same way. In the future, it can be sheathed with plasterboard with preliminary installation of the frame, or a hanging system can be installed, which will also give a finished look to the surface.

The process of insulating walls with foam plastic:

• from wooden beams measuring 3*4 cm, a wooden sheathing is constructed around the entire perimeter of the loggia;
• the resulting niches between the bars are filled with foam plastic. It is either glued or screwed with self-tapping screws;
• the joining areas are filled with construction foam;
• then the insulation is covered with plates - “thermal insulators” (foil-coated isolon);
• carrying out finishing work.

The process of insulating walls with penoplex

• the material should have an optimal thickness of 30 mm;
• Before installing the insulation, the wall surface is treated with copper sulfate. It, in turn, will eliminate the likelihood of mold or dangerous fungus forming;
• fix the insulation using dowels and foam;
• the finished structure is covered with foil film using double-sided construction tape.

For finishing, you can use almost any material - wood, plastic, plasterboard. If you do not intend to install a heated floor system (it is described below), then we recommend that you think about installing a radiator in advance.

Floor installation

To choose a flooring option, you need to consider the available tools and materials. The easiest way to install a floor with your own hands in houses of type P 44 is the typical raising and insulation. To do this you need to prepare:

• Screwdriver.
• A grinder with a wood disc or an electric jigsaw.
• Dowels 80 mm.
• Plywood or chipboard 20 mm.
• Wooden beams 40x40 mm.
• Self-tapping screws for wood.
• Polystyrene foam or penofol 30 mm thick.
• Tape measure, pencil, screwdriver, hammers, level.

Installation of heated floors on the balcony

Using a hammer drill, holes are drilled for attaching rough timber along the entire length of the room. We measure the width of the balcony (in houses of type P 44 it is 105 cm) and cut the beams 40x40 mm into the appropriate size minus 1-2 cm. They are laid and mounted at a distance of 40 cm from each other. Then we drill through holes and secure with 80 mm dowels.

Polystyrene foam is tightly placed into the formed cells. We make sure that no gaps are formed. Foil is placed on top. Using a level, level the layers of plywood evenly. If necessary, add another layer of polystyrene foam or penofol. Now all that remains is to paint the floor in your favorite color. This completes the repair of the balcony floor.

Related article: How to make a folding table for a balcony

Installation process

Before starting the installation of the balcony block, certain preparations are carried out, for this it is necessary:

• remove the upper rods at the door, window; in the open position, remove them from the lower hinges;
• bend the glazing bead inward, remove the double-glazed windows;
• install fittings and brackets for mosquito nets on the frames;
• glue the sealing tape along the outside;
• drill holes for anchor bolts. In fastening to the wall, 3 sides of the hole are involved, in contact with the stone. The distance of the center of the drill from the corner is 20 cm on the longitudinal axis of the profile. Along the long side of the frame, 2 holes are added at equal intervals from each other.

Depending on the profile features and the need to take into account the individual dimensions of the balcony block, the holes cannot be closer to the edge 1.5 cm in width, 7 cm in length.

We install the block in parts

Installation of a balcony block in a panel house begins with connecting the door and window frames with connecting strips.
The one-piece structure is inserted into the prepared place, leveling it in a plane with wooden stands. Horizontality is checked with a level.

Be sure to measure the standard frame diagonals after all the spacers have been installed.

The anchor seats are drilled through the prepared holes in the profile of the perforator. Secure the result with bolts.

Hang the door and window in the reverse order of disassembly. Double-glazed windows are inserted into place. The bags are edged with glazing bead. To do this, use a rubber mallet, carefully tapping it correctly in the middle, after inserting the corners of the strip into the groove. For details on installing the balcony block, see this video:

Check the operation of all mechanisms

Check the operation of the doors and locks for opening and closing. They should have a smooth move, without rubbing or tight fit into the contour of the hole. The rubber seal is pressed evenly around the entire perimeter of the sash.

All that remains is to fill the gap between the outer perimeter of the balcony block and the walls with polyurethane foam. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the coefficient of its expansion so that there are no gaps left, and maintain a rational consumption of the cylinder. There is no need to fill more than 2/3 of the gap. The excess amount can be easily trimmed with a construction knife.

Do not open the door until the polyurethane foam has hardened for 24 hours.

Glazing

Balcony glazing is the final stage of do-it-yourself renovation. In houses of type P 44, the most suitable option is to install double-glazed windows. You must order windows from a trusted manufacturer. First of all, you need to take measurements. To do this, we remove the old window frames right down to the base of the parapet and the upper ceiling. Now we measure the distance between the walls and from the parapet to the ceiling. Based on the technical data received, we manufacture windows.

To install metal-plastic windows yourself, you will need:

• Ready-made frames with double-glazed windows.
• Drill or hammer drill with 140 mm Pobedit drill bits.
• Self-tapping screws with plastic dowels.
• Screwdriver.
• Polyurethane foam.
• Tape measure, level, screwdrivers.

Installation of metal-plastic windows on the balcony

So, before installing the windows, we remove the glass unit from the frames. The frames are inserted into the window opening, where the points of future holes are marked. Insert plastic dowels into the drilled holes. Then we mount the frame using self-tapping screws, screwing them into the dowels. All cracks are sealed with foam. Then we install the double-glazed windows, securing them with a plastic strip. Attach the swing-out doors.

The main types of slabs used for balconies and their features

A balcony is a slab that protrudes some distance from the wall of the building. For security purposes, it is fenced with railings along the entire perimeter. A balcony is a structure that includes a horizontal base plate, fastenings and fencing.

Today there are several types of balcony slabs, which differ in design:

1. Cantilever plate. It is used in brick houses with reinforced concrete floors. They fasten it by pinching it into a wall with two opposite sides or one;

2. PB (balcony slab). It is a multi-hollow reinforced concrete or metal floor platform. Used in old buildings, at a depth of more than 38 cm;

3. The balcony slab in a monolithic house is a continuation of the floor slab. Features of installation of balcony slabs

Many people believe that all slabs are a continuation of the floor, but this is not entirely true. When building a balcony, a wide variety of fastening methods are used:

• Use of additional support. It is mounted on the ground floor, as it requires an external steel, reinforced concrete or wooden support fixed to the ground;
• Pinching in the structure of the wall of the house. A cantilever plate is used;
• Suspension to the load-bearing walls of the balcony platform;
• In frame buildings, the support rests on the consoles of the internal walls or columns. In this case, there is no load on the wall.
• In panel-type houses, for example, in Khrushchev, balcony slabs are used with floors and supported on reinforced concrete structures.
• Installation in a brick building is carried out by pinching it into the facade of the house. Overhead and underlay elements made of reinforced concrete are walled into it. They make up a niche for the stove. The edge that is adjacent to the wall is thickened. A fairly large entry into the wall of the building is required. It must be welded using steel anchors to reinforced concrete elements.

Types of open balconies

Nowadays, the construction of balconies can have various types, such as:

1. French balcony designs are small in size. It is intended to go out onto it in order to breathe air or admire the appearance. It is placed opposite the doors. In most cases, this type of balcony is glazed.
2. Attachment-type structures are often installed directly to the very façade of the building. For additional reliability of this type of structure, a foundation is erected from below.
3. For high-rise buildings, cantilever-type balconies are used. The main supports are built into the load-bearing wall by more than half a meter. Cantilever holders are made of high-strength metal. The enclosing part is made of a decorative monolith.
4. Balconies installed in a brick house have significant weight; therefore, they are used in structures made of material that can withstand such a load. This type is very similar to the previous version.
5. Balcony room on additional support pillars. These types of structures often have a huge mass, due to this, additional brackets or pillars are installed. When using supporting structures in the form of columns, the balcony room is installed on the first or second floors. Brackets are used in the construction of higher floors.
6. The hinged type of balcony in a panel house is installed on pins that are placed on the facade walls of the building. This structure is pre-fabricated, after which it is suspended on clamps using special equipment.

This or that type of balcony premises is equipped depending on the material used as the basis for the construction of the house, as well as its functionality.

The main reasons for the destruction of the balcony

As practice shows, the main reason why balconies collapse is depressurization of joints and violation of waterproofing. As a result, moisture enters the room, forming condensation, from which mold appears.

In addition, moisture can act on reinforced concrete, penetrating into it and causing corrosion on the reinforcement. The age of concrete directly depends on the penetrating ability of water - the older it is, the easier it is for moisture to penetrate inside. Corroded reinforcement loses its load-bearing capacity and expands, which causes a deterioration in the load-bearing capacity of concrete.

Also, the destruction of the base of the balcony is caused by high pressure on the slab, sudden changes in temperature and a long absence of major and current repairs, such as in Khrushchev.

There are 2 stages of destruction of the base of the balcony:

• The first includes minor destruction when it is necessary to strengthen the slab. Such destruction occurs in houses whose age is approaching 40 years. You can do it yourself, as this is a minor repair. For example, in cases of crumbling corners.
• The second stage is the destructive appearance of the object. These include the collapse of part of the balcony, the appearance of cracks at the junction with the wall, open sections of reinforcement, destruction is observed in the upper layer of the platform or detachment in its lower part.

Who should repair the stove?

Due to the fact that the regulations do not stipulate what a balcony is (a living space or part of a supporting structure), it is impossible to clearly answer the question of who to contact and who is responsible for the repairs. Ideally, the balcony slab should be replaced and strengthened by the management company, but the railings and parapet should be replaced by the apartment owner himself. However, it is impossible to accurately answer the question at whose expense the repairs are being carried out. On this basis, disagreements very often arise between apartment residents and the management organization.

If the fact of destruction of the integrity of the slab has been noticed, then you should write a statement to the management company. This document is signed by a specialist and recorded in the appropriate journal. A good reinforcement of your words would be an application in the form of several photographs of a destroyed balcony. Neighbors who live on the floor below must leave their signatures on the corresponding application. The next step will be to decide on further actions. You can wait for utilities, or you can carry out repairs with your own hands or with the help of construction crews. In the latter case, an estimate is needed in order to receive a recalculation of the rent in the future. If none of the options are suitable, you can safely go to court.

How to legally build a balcony on the first floor?

The most difficult stage of adding a balcony to an apartment on the first floor is, oddly enough, preparation for construction. It includes obtaining the necessary permits and developing the project.

An approximate procedure for preparing for the extension of a balcony:

1. Obtaining neighbors' consent. Often it is at this stage that a problem arises for which it is difficult to come to a compromise. The main thing here is to convince the other residents of the house that the presence of a balcony near your apartment will not in any way affect the appearance of the building itself, the surrounding area, or the strength of the house.
2. Prepare a design for the balcony itself. It must take into account all technological and architectural solutions, as well as SNiP standards.
3. Take photographs of the part of the territory where the balcony is supposed to be built.
4. To obtain official consent, it is necessary to submit all of the above documents to the technical inventory bureau, as well as pay a certain state fee.
5. In addition, you will need permits from Rospotrebnadzor, state fire supervision, the city department of culture and public utilities.
6. The next step after project approval is to apply to local authorities to obtain a building permit.

The easiest way in this case is not to try to deal with all the paperwork yourself, but to contact a law firm that provides services for coordinating construction and redevelopment. This solution will significantly save you money and nerves.

There are cases when residents are refused permission for such construction. This may be due to the fact that:

• According to the project, the balcony will be located on the front side of the building, and not from the yard;
• If there are various communications in the immediate vicinity;
• If the building is in disrepair and the extension may cause serious damage.

But such nuances are quite rare, and most often it is possible to obtain the necessary package of documents, although not always quickly.

Balcony restoration stages

In order to carry out repairs with your own hands, for example, in a Khrushchev building, you need to know in what sequence and what to do.

• The first stage will be preparation for repairs - clear the balcony of debris, remove all unnecessary objects, remove crumbled concrete.
• Exposed parts of the fittings must be cleaned of rust. The first layer is easy to remove, but the lower ones need to be treated with a special product.
• The mesh of reinforcement is attached to the slab with dowels. So that it fits into the concrete screed without protrusions, leave a small gap between the mesh and the slab. Formwork boards are fixed along the entire perimeter of the board.
• Next, you need to prepare a solution consisting of cement and sand, which will be poured onto the reinforcement. Subsequently, the screed is covered with cement and rubbed, that is, “ironized.” It is important to remember that the thickness of the screed is twice or more times the thickness of the mesh.
• The surface located below should be treated with a primer and plastered a little later.

If the reinforcement cage is more corroded, the best solution would be to strengthen the slab. Here it is necessary to carry out a set of preparatory measures.

• The first step is to install steel beams on the sides of the platform and secure them to the wall with a console. Weld the mesh to them and begin pouring concrete, the process of which was described above.
• Upon completion of the repair work, the surface should be waterproofed. Coating or roll-type materials are suitable for this purpose.

Related article: How to insulate a balcony in a new building

Complex repair

It is strongly recommended to begin serious balcony repairs by calling a specialist for an inspection. While an expert opinion on the entire form is not required, you just need to find out for yourself its condition and load margin, so that against the background of the overall costs, paying for the audit will not have much of an impact. At the same time, the specialist will tell you which methods of strengthening the slab are acceptable in this case, and will recommend the most suitable one.

Weight load calculation

Balconies are designed for a weight load of 12 kN; this is approximately 1.77 tons. The basis of the calculation is 6 adults, warmly dressed people on the balcony, 85 kg each, which gives 510 kg, 175 kg of laundry with household utensils and 200 kg of snow with ice or storm water that does not have time to drain; safety margin is double. Let's eliminate the accumulation of precipitation on the closed balcony and reduce the safety margin to 1.5. Generally speaking, for a balcony, a double reserve is the minimum acceptable, but, in the absence of atmospheric influences on a closed balcony, the organizations approving the project turn a blind eye to one and a half. As a result, we have (510 + 175) x 1.5 = 1027.5 kg of weight load. 1770 – 1027.5 = 742.5 kg remains for insulation with finishing.

Is it a lot or a little? Let's see. Let's say the balcony is used for housing. We need reinforced PVC windows with double-chamber glass blocks, otherwise it will be cold and the wind may break them. To glaze a regular balcony you will need 6 window blocks, and one of these weighs about 80 kg. Total – 480 kg for windows only; for the parapet, insulation, finishing and furniture remains... 262.5 kg. Obviously not enough, and the French window does not help the situation at all: due to the thick, durable glass and powerful frame, it alone can eat up the entire weight reserve.

Therefore, when planning a comprehensive balcony repair, the weight must be calculated literally with aviation precision. The project can pass through the authorities without a hitch, and the balcony can become a full-fledged addition to the living space for many years, depending on the totality of little things. For example, finishing a balcony with plastic panels instead of more solid but also heavy laminate or MDF on a balcony of normal sizes frees up about a hundredweight of weight. A good half-centner will be saved by eliminating side windows in favor of solid walls with external siding and foam insulation. If cash allows, it is better to order a repair project from specialists; they know how to “gnaw out” the weight.

Cantilever balconies require special attention. The attached balconies with loggias are well supported on three sides, and the cantilevered one, whatever you say, hangs. During its reconstruction, it is highly desirable to maintain a double load reserve. This can be achieved by strengthening the balcony slab with additional metal elements.

Strengthening the cantilever slab

The figure (which will be useful to us later) shows ways to strengthen balcony slabs. Radical, and practically the only one for cantilever balconies in brick houses - substitution strut, modulon. The slab lies on the modules and is very well unloaded, while the module itself presses on the wall, i.e. the wall works in compression, which is beneficial for building materials. Ancient balconies on modulars last for centuries, and no matter what.

Ways to strengthen balcony slabs

By bringing the modulon to the edge of the slab and making the extension of the balcony (see below) its continuation, you can get a streamlined structure that is so strong and rigid that the design load with very thorough insulation, coupled with a French window, can exceed the initial one. For any balcony on modulars, not only the finishing of the balcony with wood-based lining, but also cladding with slab materials, a warm and durable, but heavy floor made of marmoleum, and windows of any design can easily fit into the weight structure.

Of course, for this, the module should not be made from a 60 or 100 mm corner; The thickness of the lines in the figure is arbitrary. A strong strut is welded from a channel or I-beam according to the calculation of the weight load.

Unfortunately, it is possible to reinforce a balcony with modulars without any particular difficulties only in old houses with high ceilings, including Stalin buildings. In them, the balconies do not form a continuous vertical row. In Khrushchev-era apartment buildings and new buildings with ceilings of 2.7 - 3.2 m, obtaining the consent of the lower-lying neighbor to a “weighty, rough, visible” bevel of the ceiling on his balcony is very, very problematic.

In new houses, the slab can be strengthened with overhead jibs, also shown in Fig. But attaching them to the slab and wall with ruffs or anchor pins in collets is useless; this will only weaken the structure. Along the perimeter of the slab and in the wall, you need to punch grooves to the reinforcement, and weld the jibs to them, and then seal the grooves with durable frost-resistant concrete, as during a major repair. This kind of work requires a full-fledged project and professional execution.

Jib, unlike modulons, you can place only two on the sides of the slab, and tie them together with a channel along its overhanging edge, also in a groove and welded to the reinforcement frame. In this case, the side glazing will have to be abandoned, and the work itself requires a thorough inspection of the condition of the load-bearing walls. But, if you manage to obtain permission from the building operator (here you don’t have to connect the building authority), then in this way you can get a balcony suitable for combining with a room in Khrushchev-era buildings with walls of 350 mm or more that are in good condition.

Overhang or parapet?

For cantilever balconies, the optimal glazing option is with extension, on the left in Fig. higher. The advantages are:

• The voluminous metal frame with a low dead weight is capable of carrying high loads of any kind.
• The large amount of space for insulation allows you to immediately hang siding on the outside of the metal without an underlying layer of sheathing, which further saves weight.
• The resulting rounded cocoon, together with the canopy, dramatically reduces the aerodynamic load on the balcony.
• Part of the bending load from the glazing is transferred to the slab along an inclined line and acts on horizontal compression, which concrete holds much better.
• An internal shelf, always needed on the farm, expands the habitable space of the balcony.

Note: glazing with extension is another one of the paradoxes of strength and mechanics. A balcony inflated into a bubble outwardly seems less reliable than an even parallelepiped, but in fact it is stronger.

For attached balconies and loggias, the advantages of the extension are less pronounced and no longer pay for its increased complexity and costs of installation. In this case, it would be more advisable to save weight by replacing the brick or concrete parapet with masonry made of foam blocks with a metal frame.

The frame in the form of a lattice made of 4-6 mm rods in a frame from a 40-60 mm angle is mounted in the same way as a railing: welded to the reinforcement in the groove and concreted. The dimensions of the frame cells must be such that the rods fit at the seams of the masonry. In the section, the frame should be in the middle of the masonry. Jeweler's precision is not required: foam concrete is easy to cut and saw. Upon completion of the masonry, the outer side of the “foam parapet” is thoroughly, twice, treated with a deep penetration primer for concrete.

Ultimately, the new parapet in section, counting from the outside in, will consist of the following layers, in the center in Fig. higher:

1. External finishing of the balcony with siding.
2. Foam block masonry on frame.
3. Slatted wooden frame with cells filled with padding polyester aluminized mats.
4. Internal lining.

Note: mineral wool is absolutely unsuitable for insulating a balcony. It will absorb the dew point, quickly become saturated with moisture, become several times heavier and collapse, completely losing its insulating properties and creating an unexpected weight load.

Visor

The canopy for a balcony can be of any design, but there is one general requirement: under no circumstances should the balcony hang on the canopy. If suddenly the balcony itself collapses, the canopy should remain in place, albeit crumpled. Otherwise, when the voltage from the subsiding balcony reaches a critical value, it can suddenly tear the canopy out of the wall and throw it down on anyone, at the same time properly damaging the load-bearing wall. Based on this, the specific design requirements for the visor are as follows:

• Frame – corner 30-40 mm.
• Fastening to the wall - with dowels in propylene screws or anchor pins in collets.
• Fastening the vertical connections of the glazing frame to the visor - with metal screws through welded “nickel” flanges or metal strips.
• Fastening the vertical connections to the slab by welding to the reinforcement frame.

With this design, if the balcony begins to sag, the canopy will first visibly bend, and then a gap will form at the top between it and the glazing, clearly visible visually or by air flow. That is, instead of the possibility of a sudden collapse of the canopy, we have two warning signals about a pre-emergency situation.

Floor

It is not advisable to compensate for the outward slope of the base floor of the balcony with a concrete screed for reasons of weight saving. It is better to lay the finished flooring along wedge-shaped joists; Let's say, at the wall - 20 mm high, at the parapet - 37-38. The exact configuration of the lag is determined by the rule with a movable spacer at the outer end, a level and a bench ruler.

Lathing for the flooring, since the width of the balcony is small, a single-level linear one, without intersecting joists, is sufficient. Foam plastic or the same aluminized padding polyester is placed in the cells between the logs for insulation. Mineral wool cannot be insulated for the reasons described above.

If you follow the rules for saving weight on the floor, most likely there will be enough left to put a rough plywood pad on the joists, and then a decorative laminate flooring on top of it. In an attached balcony or loggia, the weight reserve is probably enough for a warm floor.

Video: floor and insulation on the loggia

Repair of a balcony of a panel house. Features of the work

From the article you will learn:

Balconies in panel houses are quite primitive. During construction, they were usually made open and remain so to this day, if subsequent alterations were not carried out.

Such a balcony is usually used for storing supplies and old things, as well as for hanging washed clothes. The appearance of such a balcony always leaves much to be desired, since it does not have any design, but was created solely for practical purposes.

However, an ordinary balcony can be easily converted into a relaxation room, a small greenhouse or a compact workplace. Less commonly, balconies can serve as a place for dining or sleeping space, although such options are only suitable for the summer.

Based on this, the possibilities for transforming a balcony are almost unlimited.

Choosing insulation

The most common construction and insulation materials today are penofol, polyurethane foam, and extruded polystyrene foam. Each of them has its own positive and negative aspects in application.

“New” on the construction market – penofol. It is a combined reflective material consisting of foamed polyethylene and aluminum foil. Despite the fact that penofol has a small thickness, its thermal insulation properties are rightfully called unique. Its additional advantage is safety for the human body. The insulation does not contain or emit toxic or harmful impurities, which means it is an environmentally friendly material.

The speed of insulation work is guaranteed by the next contender - polyurethane foam. It’s “a pleasure” to work with it; even a non-professional can carry out installation. Polyurethane foam is applied to the surface to be treated by spraying. After a certain time, the composition hardens, after which finishing work can begin.

The third thermal insulation material that is in great demand is extruded polystyrene foam. Today it occupies a leading position among other insulation materials and this is quite justified. Thanks to its optimal performance, expanded polystyrene has proven itself to be the best. Firstly, it has low thermal conductivity. Secondly, the material is simple and easy to use. Thirdly, it has a long service life. Perhaps the only drawback is the duration of repair and installation work.

Before starting installation work using insulation, we suggest assessing the general condition of the loggia of a panel house. Agree, there is no point in insulating an unglazed loggia. As far as everyone knows, forty percent of the household body evaporates through the most vulnerable place in the apartment - through the windows. Let's look at several glazing options and choose the most optimal one.

The modern range of window systems offers us three types of products - wood, aluminum and PVC. The first design is equipped with high-quality double-glazed windows, providing excellent protection of the apartment from the negative manifestations of external factors and cold. Wooden windows can be made in various variations: sliding opening, rotary opening, fixed window, tilt-and-turn. Since exclusively high-quality raw materials are used for the manufacture of this design, the price of the product is quite high.

The second option is aluminum windows. Most experts are of the opinion that the structure is quite cold and is not intended for glazing residential premises. By installing them on your balcony, you will feel a slight difference between the outside temperature and the room temperature - it’s only four degrees.

So, all that remains is PVC windows. The technical characteristics of the design are rightly called high. PVC windows can significantly reduce home heat loss. This is what we are trying to achieve.

The next stage is insulating the balcony in a panel house. It is necessary to ensure thermal insulation of the side walls, floor and ceiling - this will create the most comfortable environment and make the loggia a “useful” room in terms of square footage.

Basic recommendations before starting work

First, you should carefully consider the further use of the balcony after repair, since the amount of work, the choice of materials, and much more depends on this. Repair work of this kind is quite complex, but after receiving the necessary information and following all recommendations and safety precautions, the repair will be easy and enjoyable.

The main difficulty when reconstructing a balcony is the limited space . When making repairs, all tools should be carefully stored in a separate place so as not to disturb the technician or injure him. You should also think through all your locations and movements to prevent emergency situations.

Reconstruction of the supporting frame

Installation of the support frame on the balcony

Unfortunately, over time, frames in panel houses begin to gradually collapse. The metal reinforcement inside the structure rusts, and the concrete itself begins to crumble. That is why, before starting to repair the entire balcony, you should reconstruct its frame , eliminating even the most minor defects, since we are talking about further safety during repair or operation.

It is not recommended to seek the services of various construction organizations, since they usually refuse to repair balconies in panel houses, citing technical, financial and other reasons for their refusal. Most likely, the main reason lies in the unwillingness to bear responsibility and give guarantees. Even if the company accepts the order, the price for it will be unreasonably high. Frame repairs should be carried out either yourself or with the help of qualified familiar builders, since this work is very painstaking and must be done conscientiously.

Frame repairs are usually carried out using steel profiles that are used to sheathe and strengthen the concrete structure. It is advisable to create additional backup metal fastenings of the frame with part of the wall. In the most difficult case, if the frame is severely damaged on the second floor balcony, you should additionally create metal supports from below, which can be mounted on the wall or installed on the ground. Profiles are usually fastened by welding, however, other types of fastening can also be used, for example, tie bolts.