How to join ebb tides at corners?

Installation of flashings during the construction of a house is an important part of the work. Metal or plastic flashings drain water, protecting the wall under the window and the upper part of the base from large amounts of moisture from rain and snow and prevent the destruction of walls and foundations. Low tides also occur in other places in the house where there are protruding parts of the walls.

Low tides are quite simple products; the main thing is to install them correctly so that water does not flow into the cracks and destroy the wall or base. There are differences when installing metal and plastic ebbs, but the general principle is the same. I wrote in detail about how we installed plastic sills on the windows in the article Do-it-yourself exterior window decoration. Today I am writing about how to make a metal ebb for a foundation with your own hands, how to make ebb for a base, including the angle of ebb for a foundation base.

Window casting from near-window strip

Step-by-step installation process for drip tides

Having decided on the material for the ebb, you can begin measuring and calculating its quantity. To do this, measure the entire perimeter of the house and add 10% to the resulting figure, this is necessary in order to take into account the cost of material for the design of corner and longitudinal connections;
Whatever material you choose, the width of the ebb should be sufficient to prevent water falling at an angle from the wind from hitting the lower crown of the wooden house. The width should completely cover the protrusion of the foundation and be no less than 10-15 cm.

Important to consider! The edge of the low tide should not extend more than 5 cm from the extreme point of the foundation protrusion

If the ebb is made of galvanized metal, aluminum or plastic, care should be taken to place a lining underneath it, otherwise with a slight impact it can suffer significant mechanical damage. But if the ebb protrudes more than 10 cm, then even under the copper or wooden ebb a lining must be made. The most widely used cement base under low tide. To do this, using a trowel, a tubercle is made on the foundation from a solution of cement and sand, which is slightly lower than the fastening line; it provides a minimum slope;
Using the rule, a horizontal line is drawn along the entire perimeter of the house; it will coordinate the fastening of the ebb at the required level;
Installation of ebbs begins from the corners of the house, they are sawed at an angle of 450, and one of the corners is made 1.5-2 cm longer, this will be the place for fastening with rivets.
The corners are fixed to each other using aluminum rivets; for this, holes are drilled in the galvanization, at least two per corner and fastened with a rivet gun.
The ebb tides are attached to the wall of the house with self-tapping screws; it is recommended to use at least three per meter;
Once all the corners are equipped, you can proceed to fixing the ebb tides in straight sections.

If you want to protect the crown of your house from dampness as much as possible, then there is an option for attaching the drainage elements to the groove. To do this, a groove is cut along the entire perimeter of the house with a width equal to the width of the seat at low tide. And then the entire installation procedure is repeated without changes.

Such a groove can be cut using a hand-held circular saw, but you must work with it very carefully, avoiding sudden movements. They can harm not only the appearance of a wooden house, but also your health

By following these instructions, you can independently carry out all installation work related to the equipment of the drainage system for the bottom bar of the wall. When performing work, do not forget about your own safety and use personal protective equipment.

Structural elements of the external drainage system

When designing a drainage system, the following design elements must be taken into account:

Elements of external drainage.

Gutters. They are the main element of the drainage system. Must be strong enough, because... not only serve to drain rainwater, but also retain large volumes of snow in winter.
Pipes. The water coming through the gutters is discharged into special receivers or sewers.
Funnels. They are used to collect water from gutters and supply it to pipes.
Plugs. They are installed at the ends of gutters and serve to protect against water overflow during heavy rainfalls.
Mounting brackets. They fix the gutters in the desired position and give the structure stability.
Rotations of gutters and pipe bends. Necessary for directing water flows in the right direction.
Sealing gaskets and rubber rings. Provide a hermetically sealed connection between the gutters.
Connecting couplings and clamps. They are used to secure pipes together and fasten them to the walls of the building.

Flashings on the foundation of a wooden house: installation for a plinth, photo

In arranging your own home, any, even the most seemingly insignificant element can affect the result of your work and its appearance. The ebbs on the foundation of a wooden house are no exception, which, along with corners on slopes, floor and ceiling skirting boards, window sill boards and other details, can add neatness to your home and its renovation.

Wooden house with low tide

The final part of the finishing is the installation of flashings on the foundation of a wooden house. Photos showing the appearance of the ebb tides on the foundation of a wooden house speak eloquently about the advisability of making such an improvement to your home.

Note! Flashings for the base of the foundation of a wooden house will perfectly protect your home from the harmful effects of negative weather conditions and precipitation that can accumulate at a certain level. Before installing ebbs on the foundation of a wooden house, keep in mind that on one side they are adjacent to the wall of the house, on the other they slightly extend beyond the boundaries of the foundation, as if hanging beyond its limits

In most cases, these elements are made of metal, which is covered with a protective film of polymer

Before installing ebbs on the foundation of a wooden house, keep in mind that on one side they are adjacent to the wall of the house, on the other they slightly extend beyond the boundaries of the foundation, as if hanging beyond its limits. In most cases, these elements are made of metal, which is covered with a protective film of polymer.

Most often, ebbs are purchased or ordered from craftsmen, however, after learning how to make ebbs for the foundation of a wooden house yourself, you may want to make it yourself.

Manual castings are made from:

copper;
galvanized metal;
concrete (in rare cases, since they most often play the role of supports, weighing almost 20 kg).

The main type of do-it-yourself ebb tides is radial. That is, such elements completely repeat all the features of the silhouette of the house.

Low tide on the bend of the wall

Manufacturing recommendations

There is nothing difficult or impossible to do on your own for the foundation of your home. To do this, you must take sheet metal and cut it into strips of the required width.

Then you should bend them according to the level. To do this, you need to make markings, lay the sheet on a corner, tapping it on the surface of the metal, and bend it in the desired direction.

Note! Metal bending is carried out on both sides. In the place where the ebb will be adjacent to the wall, the metal strip must be bent upward, and it will be narrower

On the other side, a downward bend is performed.

Bend pattern

The only parameter that will be subject to correction is the width of your product. Since the foundation against the background of the building is not as clearly defined as the base, the ebb in this case may have a smaller width. If you are dealing with a protruding part of the wall, then refer to the diagram below.

Note! The sequence of your actions plays an important role in this process, so it is recommended not to break it

Installation and Tools

Before installing the drip tide, you should check all the walls of the house for chips, any cracks or other surface defects. If defects are identified, they should be puttied or sealed with sealant.

Low tide installation diagram

Required tools:

a hacksaw or scissors used for working with metal;
hammer and pliers;
mallet made of wood or rubber;
hammer drill or drill;
chop cord.

After making the ebb, it is necessary to make markings in those parts where it will adjoin the wall of the house. Using a level, you need to check the size of the ebb slope, and then make markings. Next, a line is drawn along which the installation will be carried out. To do this, you can use a beating cord, which can be found in the assortment of a hardware store along with a product such as paint.

Placing the board for rigidity

Don't forget to measure the width and depth of the foundation. And also make sure that the screws are tightened according to the technology. The cord is pulled tightly across the entire wall, secured at the two outermost points. After this, a pull is made in the middle and the cord is released. As a result, you get an even strip.

Holes for fixing the ebb are made both on the wall and on the product itself, applying it to the foundation. In wooden houses, a board is placed under the ebb to ensure a sufficient level of rigidity. And the junctions with the walls are sealed with sealant.

Materials

Molding strips for protecting basement walls are made from aluminum, copper, steel, PVC, stone, clinker and other materials. The varieties differ in the type of installation, have their own design features, advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Types of ebb tides for foundation plinth

PVC

One of the most popular materials due to its affordable price and noiselessness. A wide selection of sizes and colors allows you to choose a plastic molding for the base to suit any exterior and harmoniously fit it into the decoration of the house.

Visible advantages:

durability and reliability;
moisture resistance;
resistance to environmental influences;
easy to install.

Plastic ebb blends harmoniously with vinyl or siding trim

The disadvantage is that over the years, plastic shimmers can lose their former aesthetic appeal due to exposure to sunlight. In addition, plastic is quite fragile in the cold. Heavy hail can damage the material beyond repair, but replacing the broken piece will not be difficult.

Concrete

Protective structures made of sand, cement, crushed stone and plasticizer are not afraid of temperature changes and have a long service life. They are very durable, resistant to chips, cracks and other mechanical damage, and cannot be deformed. Like others, they have a wide selection of sizes. The main advantage is that the concrete cast can be painted in any color, matching it as harmoniously as possible to the overall finish.

Concrete sills go well with the finishing of the base made of natural stone

A significant drawback is the bulkiness of concrete structures. The installation of such strips should be considered at the design stage. And if one of the fragments fails, it will not be so easy to replace it.

Clinker tiles

In addition to visual appeal, clinker tiles have other advantages:

strength;
long service life;
high protective properties.

Clinker tiles are a piece material and if one of the elements fails, replacing it will not be difficult.

An example of a flashing for a plinth made of clinker tiles

However, such ebb tides are quite expensive, and not everyone can afford them. In addition, installing elements requires certain skills and dexterity: it is quite difficult to fit piece elements, creating a complete surface with their help.

A natural stone

Most often, stone flashings for the base are made of sandstone; less often you can find products made of granite. The planks are available in black, green, blue and light with a gray tint.

The advantages of stone elements are strength, wear resistance, aesthetic appeal and durability.

Stone casting for the ground part of the base fits harmoniously into the exterior with brick or stone walls, plastered surface or facade panels.

Due to their specific weight, stone casting strips for the base are not suitable for protecting every foundation. Only a base that can withstand heavy loads can withstand such a finish. Also, the disadvantage of natural stone is the rather high price of products, heavy weight and difficult installation.

An example of a basement flashing made of natural sandstone stone

Metal products

Copper, steel and aluminum castings for the ground part of the base differ in appearance, weight, properties and other technical indicators. Some models are equipped with a polymer coating that prevents damage to the planks.

The coatings differ in texture and colors. There are options for wood, stone and other materials. The only things common to ebb moldings made from different types of metal are a wide selection of sizes and a design consisting of two bends and a shelf. One bend is used to attach the plank to the wall, the second is used to provide drainage.

Metal ebbs for the plinth can completely protect the base from the effects of precipitation

The advantages of metal castings include:

strength;
long service life;
neat appearance;
resistance to natural influences;
resistance to mechanical damage;
affordable price;
resistance to temperature changes.

The disadvantages include the noise of such elements and the possibility of damage at the cut site if they are processed incorrectly. The most expensive are copper castings.

Natural wood

Due to its aesthetic qualities, this option is used when finishing log houses or buildings covered with a block house, wooden clapboard, etc. One of the main tasks of wooden ebb, in addition to its protective function, is not to violate the external integrity of a building made of natural materials.

The wooden moisture-proof element for the plinth most harmoniously complements the natural exterior of the building.

Such tides are made from larch impregnated with an antiseptic and treated with polymer. Sometimes these are simply wooden strips nailed at a certain angle to ensure drainage of wastewater. With a reliable moisture-resistant backing, the material can last about 2 decades.

Metal flashings are also used to protect the base of a wooden building.

Moisture-proof planks made of wood are the most short-lived and require systematic painting and timely replacement. In the sun, the material dries out, in the rain it becomes saturated with moisture, and after several frosts, cracks form on the surface. The main advantage of such ebbs is their affordability, so if you have the opportunity to consider more expensive options, it is better not to stop with wood.

When decorating the exterior of a log house, you can replace the wooden ebb with metal or stone elements.

Prices for ready-made tides

Low tides

Making casting for the foundation

The flashings are installed upon completion of the plinth cladding before the façade cladding. Horizontal markings are made with a water level. The dimensions of the foundation ebbs are determined using a tapping cord. Next, you need to cut blanks of the required width from a metal sheet plus a bend on both sides.

note

The width of the working shelf is usually 40-50 cm, about 5 centimeters more than the width of the ledge itself. The width of the vertical shelves is 2 cm.

At the bottom, an additional bend of 1 cm is made towards the wall, horizontally.

To drain water from the facade, the angle of the canopy should be 15 degrees:

Check with a level that the protrusion plane is horizontal.
A slope is made on the ledge using cement-sand mortar.
Waiting for it to harden.
The edges of the metal parts are bent in opposite directions at an angle of 105 degrees.
Place it on the ledge and adjust the bend so that the edge fits tightly to the wall at the top and falls vertically down at the bottom.

Next, check the integrity of the facade wall. Chips and cracks in concrete are filled with sealants, putty or plaster. Further:

1. Make mounting holes in the upper flange of the low tide at the same level in increments of 30-40 centimeters.

2. Place the canopy against the wall.

3. Make holes in the façade with a drill or hammer drill and secure the ebb with dowels.

4. Upon completion of installation, the gaps between the wall and the sill are filled with sealant.

Sometimes the planks are not placed directly on the wall, but on pre-installed guides. In this case, fastening is carried out to the guides with self-tapping screws.

Installation of flashings on pre-installed guides

In any case, the overlap of adjacent planks should be at least 3 centimeters. The seam is coated with frost-resistant sealant.

Joining of two low tide strips

There is a nuance in installing flashings on the foundation of a wooden house: a groove is selected in the facade wall and the edge of the canopy is inserted into it, installing a wooden board underneath for rigidity.

If the facade is ventilated, the ebb is attached directly to the wooden frame with self-tapping screws. In this case, the top edge will overlap the siding panel.

Installation of ebb and flow on a foundation with a ventilated facade

When installing plastic moldings, you need to be careful: if you hit them with a hammer, the material may collapse. When you need to bend a workpiece, place a rubber or felt pad under it.

If the ledge is wide, it is recommended to attach the planks to brackets, otherwise they will flap in the wind.

Preparatory stage

It is necessary to begin installing drip linings only after a thorough inspection of the external walls for the presence of defects such as cracks, chips and others. Areas with detected flaws must be treated with putty or sealant. Planned work on insulating the base of the house - the foundation - is carried out in advance, that is, before the tides are attached. The cladding of the façade and basement is also done in advance.

The most important condition for arranging a high-quality drip system to protect the base from moisture is the absolute horizontalness of the surface and the presence of slopes:

A cord is secured to one corner of the outer wall using a self-tapping screw or dowel. It is leveled using a building level, and then attached to the second corner.
Slopes are made from cement-sand mortar with a slope of at least 15 degrees and strictly along the cord.
Wait a few days until excess moisture comes out of the cement and it completely sets.

The solution is mixed in standard proportions. Three parts sand are placed on one part of cement. The components are filled with water to create a mixture that does not run off the trowel.

Choosing flashings for the foundation plinth, recommendations from our editors

Installation of the drip tide is carried out at the final stage of finishing the foundation. It allows you to visually separate the walls from the load-bearing part of the building. When choosing a suitable option, you should remember that ebb tides perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function. Based on this, they should be the same color as the walls or base of the house. A choice of contrasting products is also possible.

When choosing, pay attention to:

the thickness of the material from which the product is made;
homogeneity of structure;
maintainability;
mass of elements;
geometric parameters of the product, having previously determined the length of the ebb and the width of the ebb. 10% should be added to the calculated length, which will be lost when forming corners;
product configuration, which should follow the shape of the base;
the condition of the protective and/or decorative coating, if any;
installation requirements.

The selected model must be homogeneous

Under the influence of unfavorable factors, cheap products will not last long.

Foundation drainage

Drainage of the foundation of a house must be carried out on waterlogged soils and at high groundwater levels (where the need to drain excess liquid in a timely manner is especially important), but it is optimal to play it safe and create a full-fledged system at the construction stage of the building. If it later turns out that natural water drainage is ineffective and drainage is still necessary, its installation for a fully built house will be more labor-intensive and require greater financial costs.

Scheme of water drainage from the foundation with the installation of a drainage system.

Sequence of work

A drainage trench is created with your own hands with a small indentation (up to 1.5 m) or close to the concrete surface of the foundation (optimally the work will be done before backfilling the axillary cavities). Requirements for trench geometry: slope towards water intake points 1-1.5%, bottom 20-40 cm below the foundation base of the house.
The trench is lined with geotextile or other filtering film (permeable to water, but retaining silt and sand) so that its upper edge is higher than the hydraulic lock.
A drainage pipe with holes is placed in the trench to ensure the collection and drainage of water. The pipe must drain the liquid into a pit or drainage well.
The trench is backfilled using a permeable material or mixture (possible options are gravel, sand, crushed stone). The presence of clay reduces the permeability of the backfill.
The hydraulic lock device is the surface filling of a trench with soil with low water permeability (for example, clay) after the horizontal surface is lined with geotextiles. To increase the density of the waterproof backfill, it is compacted. This hydraulic lock prevents the drainage system from overflowing during heavy rainfall.
The blind area of the house is mounted on top of the hydraulic lock and completely covers the trench with the obligatory protrusion of the edge of the blind area beyond the drainage structure.

A high-quality foundation flashing with a drainage system will protect the foundation of the house from water.

Types of tides

Types of flashings for wooden houses differ in the material from which they are made; the following are popular:

Drain board - it looks harmonious against the general background, because it is made in the same style as the house. Installation of such products is quite simple, although in the corners you will have to tinker a little longer;
Galvanized metal ebbs are very popular, this is due to the ease of installation and a wide selection of colors. They can be matched to the color of the roof, giving the house a zest with this element;
Aluminum or copper ebbs - used much less frequently, the reason for this is the high price, especially for copper products. Although it is they who have a colorful appearance after the oxidative process;
Plastic castings are the cheapest subtype, which actually explains their popularity. The disadvantage is the low strength of the material, especially at low temperatures.

Briefly about the main thing

The foundation is the foundation of the house; the stronger it is, the longer the building will last. The most vulnerable place of its above-ground part is the protrusion under the wall and the joint with it, where rain and snow moisture constantly accumulates. Freezing and thawing, it slowly but surely destroys the base, depriving it of its strength and attractiveness. Something as simple as a plinth molding that covers this projection eliminates this problem. It can be metal, concrete, plastic, made of ceramics and natural stone. You can choose ready-made products in the store or order them to be made according to your sizes.

Installation of ebb tides

The foundation sill can also be installed during completed construction (for example, when purchasing a finished house), but it is best to begin installation after the foundation has been insulated and finished (during construction or major repairs).

Tools needed:

hammer (rubber mallet for materials sensitive to mechanical damage),
hammer drill (for timber and log walls - drill),
metal scissors (if a plastic or galvanized metal outlet is selected),
Master OK,
level,
chop cord.

Materials:

mortar (use of polyurethane foam is allowed, but such a drain will be less durable),
frost-resistant sealant,
fastening brackets (sometimes replaced with boards, foam panels, etc.) and hardware for fixing wide ebbs without rattling.

Do-it-yourself installation of a basement sill.

Sequencing

Inspection of the vertical surface of the base and elimination of deficiencies - filling up cracks and potholes, leveling the curvature.
Construction of slopes from concrete mortar, maintaining a slope of 15°, allowing time (several days) to gain strength.
Installing guides and making your own markings for drilling holes.
The outlet is fixed with self-tapping screws (on guides) or dowel-nails (directly on the wall) with an overlap of 30 mm.
Treating the joints with sealant so that they do not allow water to pass through.
Installation of ready-made corners or corners cut from linear panels with careful coating with sealant.
Installation of brackets or other supporting devices for wide drainage systems so that in strong winds they do not rattle, knock, or become deformed.

Types of blind areas in systems for draining water from the foundation.

Installation of drainage on guides.

Additional recommendations regarding the manufacture and installation of drainage systems with your own hands

The maximum load acts on the drains at the corner joints, so these parts must be securely fixed and carefully sealed.
To level the base with your own hands, use a cement-sand mixture (1:3), to which enough water is added so that the composition becomes plastic, but does not flow off the trowel.
The width of the ebb for the foundation is selected so that the installed structure protrudes beyond the plane of the base by 50 mm, this will ensure water drainage to the required distance.
Using a rubberized hammer or mallet will prevent the formation of dents on metal products and chipping of the polymer coating.
When installing slopes, it is important that the slope is uniform throughout the entire perimeter.

Installation diagram of external and internal corners.

Angular connection of linear drainage sections.

Peculiarities

Plinth ebbs are installed above all protruding parts of the foundation along the entire perimeter of the building. They look like a shelf with edges bent at a certain angle. When installing, it must be tilted towards the street; an angle of 5-10° is sufficient. Thanks to such slats, water from windows and roofs flows a considerable distance from the base of the house and does not fall on the foundation. You can make such protection for the foundation of your house with your own hands, but you should choose waterproof materials for it.

You can make the tides yourself

It is much easier to purchase ebb moldings for finishing the base and foundation at a hardware store. The choice of ready-made planks is very large, so choosing a tint to match the color of the house or finishing material will not be difficult. In addition, this small detail also performs an aesthetic function - it decorates the structure.

Moldings made of plastic and metal have a wide color palette; they can be ordered specifically for your project. Aluminum products are available in natural steel color. Concrete shelves can be painted with regular facade paint to match the entire structure. Then the appearance of this design will emphasize the design of the house.

Do-it-yourself ebb installation

Depending on the material from which the additional element is made, fastening is done with hardware or the ebb is glued and installed on the surface of the base using mortar. Individual developers usually install drip sills from sheet materials, so this particular technology will be considered. First of all, you need to consider:

the dimensions of the plank are limited by the length of the bending machine; the additional element will not be enough for the entire wall;
first of all, the corners and façade elements protruding outward (pilasters, figured masonry) are designed;
then the planks are laid overlapping on the straight sections of the base.

Installation diagram

The upper narrow shelf of the sills is designed specifically for fixation to load-bearing structures. Installation is carried out after finishing the base before installing the cladding of the ventilated facade. The additional element is attached with self-tapping screws to the frame posts. If the wall of the building is lined with brick, it will not be possible to hide the top shelf; it is attached close to the masonry.

Installation of flashings under the ventilated façade.

In order to properly drain the water from the foundation of the house, it is necessary to seal all the resulting joints. In places where the planks overlap longitudinally, you can use frost- and weather-resistant sealant. When making corners yourself, soldering joints or seam joints are used.

How to make an outer corner

To do the installation of ebb tides correctly, you need to start working with the design of the corners. There are several ways to decorate external wall junctions:

On rivets:

two ebb tides are taken for adjacent walls;
the edge of the first is cut at an angle of 45 degrees;
for the second one, it is necessary to leave 1 - 2 cm allowance on all shelves, and also cut the edge at 45 degrees;
after which, the planks are installed in place, the allowance remains inside;
the joint is connected with rivets.

From one low tide:

a right angle is marked in the middle part of the bar;
one cut is made according to the marking (only the top, middle shelf, the bottom is not cut);
on the second side there is 1 - 2 cm allowance;
The ends of the strip are brought together, sealant is applied to the joint, and rivets are installed.

Decorating with a plank:

the corner is made using any previous method;
a bar made of the same material is placed on top;
Attached to both sides with self-tapping screws or rivets.

Seam connection diagram.

In this case, you will have to calculate the length of both allowances to ensure reliable protection of the foundation base of the house.

How to make an internal corner

Installation of the internal corners of the drip plate of the foundation of the house is practically no different from decorating the external joints. Manufacturing features are:

45 degree angles are marked in the opposite direction (the lower edge of the plank is longer than the outer edge);
if the corner element is created from a whole plank, the upper shelf, intended for fastening to the wall, remains intact;
when joining two ebbs in the inner corner of the base at 45 degrees, it is enough to cut off one of them, the edge of the second will freely fit entirely under it.

The inner corner can also be made using rivets, similar to the outer one.

To decorate a column or pilaster, it is better to use one piece of the required length, making two external corners in it, making 45 degree angles on both sides for the internal corners.

Straight sections

After completing the connections and corners, installing flashings on straight sections does not cause any difficulties. However, even before installing the corner elements above the foundation plinth, to support the ebbs, you need to make a mortar screed at the desired angle. Another option is to attach additional elements to the frame or wall, filling the internal cavity under the decorative strip with polyurethane foam.

In this case, it is necessary to press the ebbs with weights every 40 - 50 cm so that the expanding foam does not disturb the angle of the middle shelf. To prevent metal and plastic elements from flapping in the wind on the base of the foundation or coming off, screws are glued to the back side, bent at an arbitrary angle of the plate. In this case, they remain embedded in the foam and ensure reliable fixation of the planks.

Good publicity

How to install a basement flashing step by step

In order to properly fix the ebb on the base, you need to know several important points.

First: The ebb is attached to a ready-made plinth (that is, the finishing of the plinth is completely completed, it is smooth and does not require additional leveling with mortar).

Second. The flashings are attached to the base, before finishing the façade of the building.

Third: The ebb should be five centimeters wider than the base, no less, a little more is possible.

4) The corners of the ebbs are cut out from the same material (please note that there are ready-made corners for ebbs,

this is if you don’t want to mess with them).

5) The overlap of one ebb sheet on another should be three. three and a half centimeters.

We will need a tool.

Silicone sealant and a “gun” for it.

Metal scissors (I am writing about galvanized ebb, but if the ebb is plastic, then metal scissors will not be useful).

Hammer drill (if you have to drill concrete walls, or brick, if the house is made of timber, then you can just use a hammerless drill.

Naturally, the walls to which we will attach the ebb are cleaned of dust and dirt

They begin to attach the ebbs from the corners of the plinth; while waiting to begin, measure the plinth along the length of one wall (by the way, the scraps can be useful on the next wall; if you take the correct measurements, you can cut the ebb taking into account the use of the scraps).

Some purchased (not homemade) moldings have ready-made holes for dowels with screws (if not, we mark and drill them).

All that remains is to mark and drill, then insert the dowel into the wall and remove the flashing; before final installation, apply waterproof sealant to the flashing and to the wall, then tighten the screw and remove the excess sealant.

If the base is wide, then the ebb for it is also wide, such ebbs have special brackets that are also attached to dowels (we drill from the bottom of the ebb and mark them along the brackets). The brackets hold the ebb in place; in windy weather it will not go anywhere.

In the end, I will say that I described the fastening of ebbs to the wall, if there is a sheathing on the facade of the building for finishing, then we attach the ebbs directly to it, sealing with silicone is carried out during the installation of the finishing material on the facade of the building.

the moderator chose this answer as the best

As I understand it, the construction of the house is already coming to an end, the main thing is that the foundation and wall have already been erected and it will not be possible to put a plinth under the wall. Then you need to do the following:

We select the width of the ebb for the base; to do this, use a tape measure to measure the distance from the place where the ebb is supposed to be attached to the wall and to the edge of the foundation. We add 2-3 centimeters to this distance and look for an ebb of at least the specified size.

It is not shown in the figure, but I advise you to first make a concrete casting, i.e. pour the solution at an angle in a place that may be empty after installing the drip tide; this is the angle between the plinth and the wall. So that if over time water can get under the tide, it will still flow down from the wall.

Install the ebb on the wall using dowel-nails if the wall is brick or made of blocks, or screws if the wall is wooden, but do not screw them tightly, but only tighten them.

Coat the joint between the flashing and the wall with sealant or silicone and tighten the screws until they stop, pressing the flashing to the wall, immediately remove excess sealant.

Actually installing the drip sill on the base is not such a problem, but there is one important point. And many non-professional amateurs often admit it, this point is as follows: installation and fastening of the ebb, the joint between the ebb and the wall must be secured with sealant and then taken with dowels or screws. Many people don’t do this, and during slanting rains (and this happens often), water can get behind the base and then problems will arise.

According to the technology, the ebb should be 2.5 centimeters wider than the base. First of all, prepare the place where the ebb is attached by carefully sweeping it or using compressed air to free it from dust and larger fragments, then apply sealant thickly to the ebb and use a construction gun to nail it with dowels at a distance of 50 - 60 cm. And so if you decide to install siding panels or metal profiles on the house First install the ebb tides; it will be cheaper.

Design and types of tides

The ebb for the foundation has a fairly simple design: the main plane is supplemented with two bends - one for a tight fit to the plane of the base, the second for giving direction to the diverted flow of water. With the exception of minor nuances, the design of all types of products is the same.

An example of the location of the basement ebb.

Foundation ebbs can have different widths. As a rule, a narrower outlet (from 50 mm) is installed on houses with a so-called overhanging base, the perimeter of which is slightly larger than that of the foundation. Wide drains (up to 400 mm) are required when the vertical outer surfaces of the plinth and foundation lie in the same plane.

The question of choosing products comes down to assessing the performance qualities of the material.

Material	Advantages	Flaws	Approximate price, r/p.m.
Galvanized steel	ease of installation, impact resistance	mediocre aesthetics, significant reduction in durability if the coating is damaged.	100
Steel with polymer coating	longer (compared to galvanized ebb) service life, chemical resistance, the ability to choose a color to match or contrast the color of the facade, immunity to UV rays	vulnerability of the coating to mechanical stress	110
Plastic	durability, aesthetics, large selection of colors	significant reduction in performance, fragility and brittleness with decreasing temperature	70
Aluminum	lightweight and durable structures, the aesthetics of which are enhanced by the application of polymer	mediocre appearance without polymer, Possibility of dents due to impacts	155-170
Copper	gutters with impeccable performance characteristics that can last 100-200 years.	relative disadvantage - the color is demanding on the color and texture of the facade; a significant problem is the very high cost	from classic copper – 950, from oxidized – 1700, from patinated – 2450
Stone	high-strength, aesthetic, chemical-resistant, immune to mechanical damage	labor-intensive installation with your own hands, difficulty in forming a continuous coating	Wide range of prices depending on the material: Artificial stone – from 300, Marble, granite – from 2500
Clinker	possibility of a large selection of beautiful models, relatively light weight, high strength	the need for certain skills for self-assembly	From 200

Galvanized basement drainage system.

For a wooden house, panels made of steel or aluminum are optimal.

Plastic ones are more often used in the presence of siding.

Stone, clinker, copper - for a house made of brick or blocks, a base finished with natural or artificial stone.

Selection rules

The casting of the base is made from different materials, and its cost depends on this. The price is affected by the configuration of the drain strip, because an increase in the number of folds leads to higher production costs. Along with the ebb, ready-made joints of internal and external corners, elements of turns and transitions are purchased. Such connections can be made directly on site and thereby reduce the cost of purchase.

Approximate cost of drainage per 1 linear meter:

plastic costs 80 – 500 rubles;
galvanizing - 60 - 450 rubles;
aluminum strip - 300 - 900 rubles;
concrete framing - from 150 rubles;
clinker protection - from 1900 rubles and above;
copper - 1200 - 8000 rubles;
sandstone and similar stone - from 500 rubles and above.

The material is selected depending on the facade, so as not to disturb the overall appearance. For example, spillways made of plastic or PVC will not look good on a base made of natural stone; it is better to place elements made of clinker or copper here. It is impossible to install a water dispenser made of natural stone or sandstone on a remote frame made of corrugated sheets; plastic or galvanization is better.

The cost of installing drip tides ranges from 150 to 650 rubles per linear meter, depending on the complexity. You can do it yourself, but qualified workers know exactly how to connect the sills together efficiently and without gaps.

Video: installation of ebb tides using the rebated method

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