Wooden lining is an environmentally friendly finishing material in the form of lamellas, which is widely used in both residential and non-residential premises. Each of the slats is equipped with ready-made tongue-and-groove fasteners. This helps simplify joining the parts together. Wardrobes, doors, cladding of indoor surfaces, etc. are made from lining. This popularity is explained by its naturalness, accessibility due to the low price of the material, and ease of use.
The starting material for the production of wooden slats (laminated or solid) can be various tree species (coniferous, deciduous). The production process requires mandatory drying of raw materials - the humidity level should be no more than 12%. In addition, the wood is treated with antiseptic agents, which increase the resistance of the lamellas to fungal infections.
One of the most popular ways to use lining is in the manufacture of various internal doors. These could be bathhouse doors, interior structures, cabinet doors, bedside tables, etc. How much do-it-yourself clapboard structures will cost depends on what kind of wood you will use as a raw material. Beech or oak slats have a denser structure and are more expensive than spruce and pine.
How to make cabinet doors from clapboard
How to make cabinet doors from clapboard?
Elena, Berezniki.
Hello, Elena from Bereznyaki!
(Are these the same ones where Uralkali is?)
Beautiful carvings on the house where you are sitting. And the path made from edged boards looks original.
For the person who makes such things, making cabinet doors from clapboard would not be difficult.
And so, there are no particular difficulties in making such doors. True, if you do this for the first time, you will have to try.
The first thing should be the desire to do something with your own hands, the second thing should be the availability of a set of necessary tools. Workplace. Material.
Desire to eat. The tool kit should include: a tape measure, a construction square, a pencil, a hacksaw, a hammer, a Phillips screwdriver, a knife, a plane, a chisel, and other tools in the form of various and more complex things may be necessary, but you can do without it.
If the cabinet itself already exists, then the opening into which you are going to insert the future door should be framed with wooden blocks along its entire perimeter.
According to the classics of the genre, it is desirable that this wooden block should also be selected as a quarter. Or, instead, strips should be nailed from the inside so that when the doors are closed they do not fall into the opening, but simply fit flush with the surface of the front wall of the cabinet. But if this is not the case, then okay, we can get by.
I won’t describe how to make elaborate cabinet doors with built-in hinges; this is usually done in kitchen and other cabinetry versions.
Let's focus on the simplest option, when they use a pair of hinges on one door leaf. /Although instead of them you can use one piano loop of the required length./
In the accompanying drawings and sketches I tried to explain in detail the manufacture of the doors as much as possible.
First of all, take a wooden block with a cross-section of 30/30 millimeters or more. If your cabinet is small in size, then the cross-section is smaller, and if the cabinet is about two meters high, then the block should be taken with a correspondingly larger cross-section. Approximately 40/40 or 40/50 millimeters. In short, the sizes are approximate, you can play with them in one direction or another.
The block must be planed on all sides; it doesn’t hurt to sand it with emery cloth so that there are no traces of burrs or scuffs.
Then measure the opening of the cabinet itself (or make it in the image and likeness of the doors themselves).
The bars at their ends are sawn into quarters, as shown in the figure.
Alternatively, they can be made in the form of a tongue-and-groove connection, as indicated in another figure. But this will be somewhat more complicated; here you will additionally need to drill holes, which are then aligned and a darning (wooden rod) is hammered into them.
The dimensions of the door frame are made several millimeters smaller than the dimensions of the cabinet opening itself. By 2 - 5 millimeters. Then the frames will not interfere with each other when closing the door.
All frame bars are attached to self-tapping screws with a length slightly less than the thickness of the bar.
Sometimes the corners of door frames are additionally reinforced with metal window corners. They are freely sold in construction stores. These corners are attached to the inside of the doors. It is important to maintain the diagonal. That is, the diagonals of the frame must be equal to each other.
After you are sure that the door frame fits freely into the frame of the cabinet opening, attach hinges to it. One at the top, the other at the bottom. To do this, measure a distance from the corner of the frame equal to the length of the loop and place the loop so that its axis extends beyond the outer surface of the frame. Smooth and without distortions. Draw the outline of the loop with a pencil and use a chisel to select wood to a depth equal to the thickness of the loop.
After the loop is screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws, the latter is inserted into the cabinet opening and the location of the wood in the opening bar is marked along it. To prevent the frame from sagging and running over the bars of the opening, technological strips of the same thickness from 2 to 5 millimeters are nailed into the opening along the top, bottom, and on the side opposite to where the hinges are located. Then the gaps will be constant. And the strips are removed after inserting the second halves of the hinges into the cabinet opening.
For small doors, use window hinges; for doors with a height of one and a half to two meters, use door hinges.
If the hinges are installed incorrectly (out of alignment with each other, without making their surface flush with the surface of the door or opening bars), then distortions are possible and they will need to be corrected, for which sometimes thin wooden plates are placed under the hinges or by filling old holes from self-tapping screws with wooden choppers and screwing fasteners in other places.
After adjusting the frames, they begin to stuff the lining to the door frame. Everything here is elementary. Using a construction square, mark the places where the boards will be cut, saw them, sand them with sandpaper, install them on the door frame and nail them, bringing all the boards together. To do this, use galvanized clapboard or finishing nails (with small heads or without them at all) 40 millimeters long.
The end board adjacent to the side of the frame where the hinges are located can be cut out at the places where the hinges are adjacent. This eliminates the gap between the cabinet wall, which is also lined with clapboard, and the door clapboard.
Sometimes an option is used when the lining boards protrude slightly at the top and bottom beyond the door frame. In this case, the lining of the cabinet itself should be slightly smaller than the frame of the cabinet itself. This eliminates the gaps at the top and bottom of the door.
Cabinets can be either with a single door or double door. Everything is done in the same way as for one leaf. And between the doors at their junction, technological gaskets are also inserted, which are then removed. To ensure that with double-leaf doors there is no visible gap between them, a flashing strip is nailed to one of the door halves.
In the case when the doors open and close spontaneously, a pair of shingles are installed on their outer sides. Sometimes there are hooks or magnetic latches on the inside. That is, they use different options.
Related article: How to embed a lock into a wooden door
If the cabinet door is about two meters high, then in the middle of the door it is additionally necessary to place another cross bar for rigidity.
Here, as best as I could, I talked about cabinet doors made from clapboard.
If you do this, there is a possibility that the first pancake will be lumpy. Do not despair. For what is done well is done twice. Improvise, fantasize, be smart and everything will work out.
I don’t know how it would work for an ultra-modern kitchen, but for a garden house, such a cabinet design would be quite sufficient. Cheap and cheerful.
Other questions on the topic of metal and interior doors and windows:
Doors
Window
Semenych (author of materials)
Our site is regularly updated with interesting and unique materials and articles on the topics of lumber, building materials and works, the author's opinion and knowledge of a real coven with more than 15 years of experience are provided. There is a section - funny stories of shabashniks. If you would like to receive information about this, subscribe to our website's newsletter. We guarantee that your address will not be shared with third parties.
Where to begin
Often, balconies have niches for installing cabinets (example in the photo), but before you begin installing a modernized pantry, you should know:
- Glazing the balcony will preserve the attractiveness of the wooden finish for a long time, protect it from dampness and direct moisture;
- Installation should begin with repairing the floor, if not the entire balcony, then certainly the part where the bottom of the cabinet will be located;
- Elimination of all cracks and cracks, as well as additional insulation of walls and floors will protect against drafts and sudden changes in temperature conditions.
Such simple introductory instructions help preserve the wood paneling so that it will delight you with its natural beauty for many years.
Where can you use straight arms?
If you ask any city resident about the lining, in 90% of cases the answer will be about the balcony with which it is covered. And it doesn’t matter what it’s made of: vinyl lining or natural – every kind is actively used on the balcony.
Lining can be used not only as finishing, but also as a full-fledged material
It’s a different matter for owners of private houses and dachas, here they will first of all remember lining in relation to a bathhouse, in decorating a house inside and out, in the choice of protective impregnations and paintwork materials. In a word, all mentions of it are in one way or another connected with the possibility of its independent use.
It is for them that our story today.
Cabinet installation
What you will need
In order to install a cabinet on a balcony made of lining, you will need the following materials:
- pine beams 40x40 mm are suitable for making the frame of the future “storage”. Please ensure that the wood is dry and free of rot;
- beams of smaller thickness will be needed to create a door frame (can be replaced with non-wide boards);
- metal corner - for connecting wooden elements;
- For shelves, both boards and chipboard sheets of appropriate thickness are suitable;
- cabinet handles, hinges, latches, locks must be made of corrosion-resistant metal (so as not to spoil the appearance of the product);
- to connect lining strips together, it is better to use clamps, but wood screws and traditional nails are also suitable;
- and of course, the lining itself (for cabinets and doors, you can take strips of different widths, textures and colors).
Important! The lining cabinet on the balcony, built into a finished niche, consists of two concrete walls, and long anchors will be required to attach the frame to them.
For ease of use I use the following tools:
- mounting level, tape measure, pencil;
- hammer, hacksaw, screwdriver;
- hammer drill
Calculation and selection of lining
When choosing a material, it is recommended to focus on lining made from deciduous trees (when heated by the sun, coniferous trees “flow” resin, which can slightly spoil the appearance of the product as a whole).
But everyone has their own preferences here, as well as financial capabilities. It should be noted that the price of the lining depends on its class and quality.
Important! Class C for lining is the lowest and is not suitable for insulating a balcony, or for making a cabinet or any other furniture.
To avoid unnecessary waste of both money and time (on additional trips to the hardware store), we offer an example of calculating all materials.
Let's say your closet has the following dimensions:
- Bottom frame: 2x0.5 + 2x1.5 = 4 m/linear;
- Upper frame: 2x0.5 + 2x1.5 = 4 m/linear;
- Vertical posts: 4x1.8 = 7.2 m/linear.
Optimally, you will need 8 pieces of two-meter pine beams: 4 for the vertical posts, and 2 each for the upper and lower frames.
Based on the size of the selected lining, as well as the design of the cabinet, the required number of panels is purchased (calculate in advance the area of all surfaces covered with lining).
Important! Fix a sheet of laminated fiberboard as the back wall of the cabinet. The water resistance and density of this material will serve as additional protection against moisture, guaranteeing the durability of the structure.
Beginning of work
Before you start building a cabinet on the balcony from clapboard, watch this training video, and then proceed to attach the frame to the walls of the balcony.
The first step is to assemble the back and front frames of the cabinet, connecting the corresponding beams with metal corners. We recommend making the flooring (bottom of the cabinet) from OSB sheet, chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood.
Beginning of work
Attention! The photo shows that a metal corner is not used to connect the timber. The connection is made with wood screws 60-75 mm long.
- As mentioned above, for the back wall it is better to use a sheet of laminated chipboard, which is pre-attached with a construction stapler or self-tapping screws to the rear frame;
- We fix the entire structure with anchors on the end wall of the balcony, in accordance with the markings made earlier (for this we use a mounting level);
- 0.5 mm beams are attached to the frame and fixed with anchors;
- We first attach the front frame to the ends of the beams, then (to give rigidity) we attach it to the floor, ceiling and walls with anchors;
- The guides inside the cabinet also serve as a base for the shelves.
This is the kind of cabinet you should be able to make for your balcony using clapboard with your own hands.
The interior of the cabinet is ready. Now let's move on to finishing the entire structure with clapboard.
Working with lining
The appearance of the entire balcony largely depends on how to make a lining door onto a cabinet.
Therefore, we will consider the entire plating process step by step:
- To create doors, we assemble a frame of appropriate dimensions from boards or thin timber. Doors should be both light and strong, for which we recommend choosing thinner lining;
- To add rigidity, a diagonal jumper is installed in the door frame;
- Having placed the finished door frame on a flat horizontal surface using nails or clamps, we secure the lining. The nails are driven “into the secret place”;
- We complete the finished door leaf with trim (optional), handles, locks and hinges.
Related article: How to open a door if it is slammed from the inside
Decorative trims in door trim
We place the finished door (or doors) on hinges pre-fixed in the frame. After the do-it-yourself balcony cabinet made from clapboard is finally assembled, clean the entire room. Vacuum all wooden surfaces and perform the final operation - coat the product with a protective varnish.
When purchasing varnish, pay attention to the manufacturer's instructions:
- for which premises the use of this product is permitted;
- the varnish can be either colorless or contain coloring pigments;
- Observe the recommended temperature conditions when working.
All technical parameters are indicated on the label
Preparation of materials
Having figured out how to make a cabinet from lining, you can not only get an elegant piece of furniture, but also use the lining left after finishing the walls of a balcony or living room. If we are talking about decorating storage areas on the balcony, the cabinet will be integrated, and the slats will be useful only for the outer lining of the doors. When a lining cabinet is installed indoors, the external decoration of the walls is also taken into account. We calculate the area of the entire surface to be sheathed, divide by the area of one lamella and get the amount required for finishing.
To make a lining cabinet strong and stable, you need to construct a reliable base. The most ideal timber for this purpose is 40x40 mm. For cross lintels and door bases we use the smallest size beams or boards.
Regardless of the location of the future lining cabinet, special attention is paid to the quality of materials. The wood must be perfectly dried, without signs of rot, mold or damage. It is recommended to use varieties with a low resin content; deciduous oak, linden or aspen are perfect. Before starting work, all wood elements are treated with disinfectant impregnations, which will help prevent mold and extend the life of the cabinet.
When preparing material for a lining cabinet, you must not forget about the back wall and shelves. For areas that are one hundred percent hidden from view, you can use sheets of laminated chipboard.
How to properly make a lining door for a closet with your own hands
Wooden lining is an environmentally friendly finishing material in the form of lamellas, which is widely used in both residential and non-residential premises. Each of the slats is equipped with ready-made tongue-and-groove fasteners. This helps simplify joining the parts together. Wardrobes, doors, cladding of indoor surfaces, etc. are made from lining. This popularity is explained by its naturalness, accessibility due to the low price of the material, and ease of use.
The starting material for the production of wooden slats (laminated or solid) can be various tree species (coniferous, deciduous). The production process requires mandatory drying of raw materials - the humidity level should be no more than 12%. In addition, the wood is treated with antiseptic agents, which increase the resistance of the lamellas to fungal infections.
One of the most popular ways to use lining is in the manufacture of various internal doors. These could be bathhouse doors, interior structures, cabinet doors, bedside tables, etc. How much do-it-yourself clapboard structures will cost depends on what kind of wood you will use as a raw material. Beech or oak slats have a denser structure and are more expensive than spruce and pine.
Advantages and disadvantages
To finish the door leaf, it is necessary to buy materials that comply with international standards (eurolining) or markings accepted in the country according to GOST 8242. Then there will be no doubt that the cladding, made in accordance with all the recommendations and technology for laying wooden slats, will retain its shape and appearance for several more years.
According to these requirements, manufacturers offer them in the following lengths: 1.5, 3 and 6 m. This should be taken into account when calculating the amount of material for cladding. The area will not always correspond to the whole number of planks, and joining scraps can ruin the look or make installation more expensive.
Advantages of doors covered with wooden lining:
- Wood can easily be painted with protective compounds with color or paints, so there will be no problem with matching the interior.
- The surface acquires additional strength, which depends on the type of wood used. Of course, such a finish cannot protect against penetration better than steel or metal, but with high-quality assembly and installation it represents a durable structure.
- Due to the porosity of wood, it significantly increases the parameters of sound and sound insulation. Therefore, a door lined with clapboard will reliably protect against unnecessary other people’s conversations outside and keep the family’s secrets in the apartment.
- Low thermal conductivity will increase the thermal barrier and protect the room from heat leakage through the door.
- Wood can serve for a long time even in contact with the street due to coating with protective agents and compounds.
Disadvantages of a door trimmed with clapboard:
- Low fire resistance of dry material, which requires additional treatment with fire retardants. This is done in the workshops of the eurolining manufacturer, and materials of other categories need to be coated additionally.
- High moisture permeability. Even if you use products that close the pores of wood, it is very difficult to achieve complete isolation from contact with moisture. If the lining is not treated with special means, oils and other protective substances, then the fibers, after contact with liquid or at high humidity, will swell, swell or change their shape (how to treat lining?).
- If coniferous material is used, then the wood itself, due to the content of natural resins, prevents the development of pathogenic microflora. Linden, larch and other species must be coated with antiseptic agents, which also implies additional costs.
Useful tips
In order for the wardrobe on the balcony to be of good quality, and for the lining doors to properly perform their functions and look decent, consider a number of requirements:
- Products made from lining should be placed only on a closed, glazed balcony, since the effects of precipitation have a detrimental effect on wood materials.
- Before installing the cabinet in the balcony niche, it is necessary to repair the flooring of the balcony. Pay special attention to the area where the lower base of the structure will be located. A level base will ensure rigidity of the installation, the doors will not “play” when closing/opening.
- To avoid the influence of temperature changes, carefully fill all the cracks on the balcony and provide high-quality insulation.
Principles of creating a door leaf from lining
It is not difficult to make cabinet doors from clapboard. The correct choice of material size is the key to ensuring that you receive an inexpensive and high-quality product. For cladding the doors of a built-in or free-standing cabinet, experts advise taking dies of minimal width. Then the product will not be heavy. Thanks to a well-thought-out connection system, you will get a smooth and beautiful surface. The most popular way to make a door leaf is to cover a wooden frame with slats.
- Assembling a frame with dimensions that correspond to the dimensions of the desired door.
- Installation of a diagonal or transverse jumper to the internal parts of the frame. It will strengthen the structure and increase its rigidity.
- Measuring and cutting lamellas.
- Fastening the lamellas. It is performed alternately one to the other on the tongue-and-groove and to the base on the nails, hammering them “into the secret place”.
- Installation of hanging fittings (hinges or roller system).
- Finishing – applying varnish to the surface of the lining door. The coating will provide the material with additional protection, extend its service life and give it an aesthetic appearance.
- Finally, attach the door to the cabinet.
Such cabinet doors in a room or on a balcony will not only hide the things stored inside the product, but will also become a real decoration of the room.
Brief work plan
- Purchase and drying of lining and planed boards
- If the door will be painted with opaque paint:
- Applying oil primer to the front side, carefully drying
- Coloring of lining and planed boards
- If the door is painted with a glazing compound or varnish:
- Application of glaze paint or varnish
- Door installation:
- Cutting lining and crossbars from planed boards to a suitable size
- Drilling holes in the clapboards in those places where planed board crossbars will be installed (on the last clapboards - at the top, bottom and three in the center, on others only at the top and bottom)
- Applying glue to the protrusion of the lining from the wrong side
- Combination of clapboards
- Fastening clapboards to crossbars made of planed boards
- Painstaking drying. Under no circumstances should the door be deformed until the glue has completely dried.
- Installation of the usual fittings for sliding wardrobe doors, brushes, bumpers, handles, etc.
Pay attention to the fact that both the lining and the planed board must be carefully dried. Commercially available kiln-drying products usually have high humidity. Installing such parts without additional drying will result in drying out, warping and cracking.
Hinged doors made of lining
Before you learn how to create complex carpentry, assemble simple cabinet doors from clapboard. Such useful furniture can be located on a closed balcony, in a large storage room or in a utility room. The simplest option is when the cabinet is closed with one door, and the door leaf is attached to the facade of the product with a pair of hinges or using one piano hinge of the required length.
Materials and tools
First of all, prepare the necessary material for the door leaf, fastenings and finishing, tools and work area. So, in order, take:
- lining;
- wooden block 30x30 mm;
- 40 mm galvanized nails with small or no heads;
- a handle or handles to make opening/closing the cabinet easier;
- a pair of door hinges;
- metal corners;
- roulette;
- construction square;
- pencil;
- emery cloth;
- wood hacksaw;
- hammer;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- knife;
- plane;
- chisel;
- wood glue;
- varnish
Work order
- Use a tape measure to accurately measure the height and width of the cabinet opening.
- Take a 30x30 mm wooden block prepared for the base of the door, cut it into 4 blanks for the frame. The frame dimensions should be slightly smaller than the doorway (3-5 mm).
- Sand the prepared pieces of block with sandpaper.
- Prepare the ends of the parts that will be connected. How this can be done is shown in the figure below.
Other methods of attaching parts are possible:
- Tenon and groove. To do this, make or purchase special wooden darning rods (small rods) and use a drill to drill holes for them.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Attach metal corners to the corners of the finished frame.
- After making sure that the frame fits (without lapping) into the cabinet opening, proceed to install 2 hinges (top and bottom). Measure a distance from the corner of the frame that is equal to the length of the loop. Place the fittings so that the axis of the device is beyond the surface of the frame. Mark its position with a pencil. Using a chisel, select a thickness of wood in the marked area so that the hinge is flush.
- Screw the hinge to the frame using self-tapping screws.
- Repeat the same steps with the second loop.
- To ensure that the frame does not rub against the details of the opening during operation, technological strips must be nailed along the perimeter of the latter (except for the side where the hinges are attached). Their thickness should be within 2-5 mm. At the end of the work, the planks will be dismantled.
- Proceed to attach the lining to the door frame. Using a construction square, mark the places where the boards should be cut. You cut the lining, sand it with sandpaper, install it in the right place and nail it with galvanized nails. In the image below, consider several options for lining placement.
- To eliminate the gap between the cabinet wall and the door, cut some wood from the outermost slat that is adjacent to the side of the frame where the hinges are installed.
- Cover the finished doors with a layer of varnish. Leave to dry.
- Install the second part of the hinges to the cabinet. Adjust their position. Remove the technological strips from the opening.
Do-it-yourself lining doors for a closet can be made into single-leaf or double-leaf ones. The second sash is made similarly to the first, you just need to take into account changes in the location of the lamellas (usually mirrored). Do not forget to use technological spacers.
To prevent a gap from forming between the two doors, experts advise nailing a special strip to one of the door panels.
Related article: How to remove a closed door from its hinges
Development
The door frame was made from planed boards with a section of 100x20 mm. The size of the door is calculated based on the size of the cabinet, in other words, the distance that needs to be covered. Please note that the width of the wardrobe door should be less than the width of the cabinet section (the smallest one, if they are different), otherwise you will not get full access to some sections (i.e. you will not open one hundred percent) in any position of the doors . The shutters in the closed position should overlap each other so that there are no gaps.
The lining is cut to the appropriate length and painted as described in the article about installing lining. Because the sliding door must be rigid in relation to various deformations in the plane of the door, the linings must be glued one to the other (see sketch).
How to make a sliding system for built-in wardrobe doors. (Part 1)
Economy wardrobe
compartment.
Cheap sliding
system for
doors
made of chipboard
wardrobes
.
How to make an integrated wardrobe. Cabinet assembly
Sliding
wardrobe
doors made of chipboard.
DIY
sliding
system for
doors
made of chipboard .
I glued it with PVA glue.
At the top and bottom, the lining is attached to crossbars made of planed boards with a cross-section of 100x20 mm installed horizontally on the front side of the door. The board must also be previously primed and painted using the same technology as the lining.
The lining is attached to the crossbars with screws of such length that they are quite long to securely fix the connection, but do not go through. The screw is screwed from the wrong side with the tip towards the front side, through a hole in the lining, threaded into the crossbar. A hole is drilled in the clapboard for the screw, because trying to screw a screw into the clapboard can lead to cracking. In any case, the screw should fall freely into the hole in the lining, only then will it firmly press it against the crossbar.
Vertical crossbars made of planed boards have a purely decorative role. They are not important for the strength and reliability of the door, but they give a finished look and simplify the installation of brushes that prevent dust from entering the cabinet.
Such a door can be installed using standard installation parts for sliding doors.
So, I managed to make cabinet doors with my own hands .
And what about the wardrobe itself? How to design and make it.
Positive aspects and characteristics of the material
Why do all professional builders recommend making a door to a bathhouse or utility room out of clapboard?
It's all about the positive properties of the material listed below:
- availability;
- durability, long-term operation;
- speed of work;
- low price;
- thermal insulation;
- pleasant appearance;
- ease;
- a lining door can be installed in a room with a high degree of humidity;
- well suited as a material for a bath door (when steamed, such products release useful elements into the air);
- possibility of painting with any paint;
- soundproofing;
- solid material is fire resistant;
- making a door from lining is simple, no special knowledge is required;
- some species are resistant to fungal manifestations.
What is the appearance of the lining? These are narrow wooden slats that are practical and reliable. For their manufacture, they usually take solid wood of various species, less often plastic.
When creating products, the raw materials are carefully dried and treated with a special composition to make the material resistant to parasites and fungi. The price of lamellas will depend entirely on the wood used as a basis.
How to choose lumber for sheathing
The choice of lining for finishing a door is not limited to determining the grade, species and shape of the lamella. There are a few more important points.
- Drying degree. The moisture content of lumber should not exceed 12%. It is advisable that it drys under natural conditions. This takes several months, so forced drying is also used. This is also an acceptable option. Damp wood cannot be used. After assembly, it will continue to release moisture and will inevitably become deformed.
- Appearance. It is advisable to inspect the slats before purchasing. An unscrupulous seller may try to sell low-quality products under the guise of high-quality ones. There should be no defects or chips on the planks. Pale blue or greenish spots are not acceptable. This is a sign of developing fungal diseases.
- Quality of locking connections. Experts recommend always checking this circumstance. To do this, you need to take two plates from the pack at random and try to click the lock. The grooves must fit together accurately, without irregularities or difficulties. If you have problems when trying to click the connection, it is better to look for another lumber.
It is advisable to buy material treated with special compounds. It is more expensive, but the factory processing is worth it. It is carried out in special cells where special conditions are created. They cannot be repeated at home. Therefore, treatment with the most expensive compounds will not give the same result as factory treatment. The photo below shows the material processed in the factory.
Tips for choosing material
Having decided to make a door out of clapboard with your own hands, be careful when choosing the material itself. During the work process, you will also need other materials.
Pay attention to tips for choosing lamellas:
- It is better to purchase such products only in reliable places or directly from the manufacturer.
- Before purchasing, take careful measurements to ensure you purchase exactly the right amount of materials.
- Lining is a material for cladding, but wood boards can serve as its base.
- The boards can be replaced with sheets of plywood, but here you will need to additionally organize stiffening ribs.
- Lining can sometimes be used both as the internal filling of the door (base) and as a facing material.
Idea
In a room decorated with clapboard, I have a wardrobe. The question arose about how to make the sliding doors of this closet so that they were light, comfortable and harmonized with the decoration of the room. The option with standard chipboard doors was eliminated immediately, since it did not fit into the design of the room at all (like a village hut).
In the end, I decided to make the cabinet doors with my own hands from clapboard, since I had good dry clapboard on hand. The result exceeded all my expectations (see photo).