Installation of windows in an aerated concrete house: basic standards, tools, installation instructions in an aerated concrete wall, finishing, possible difficulties, average prices

The installation of windows in housing and other structures made of aerated concrete blocks has its own characteristics, and they are relevant, since the quantitative share of such objects is very significant.
Filling of openings and installation of double-glazed windows in GB is carried out differently than for buildings made of other materials.

This is primarily due to the low ability of cellular solutions to retain fasteners. There is also an advantage - such materials can even be sawed with a hand saw, which makes the work easier.

Let's consider methods for installing windows in a house made of aerated blocks (on plates, on self-tapping screws), issues related to the arrangement of installation joints, at what depth to install the frame (recessed towards the room), what quarters are and their role.

Features of window openings and their creation

Often on the Internet, in advertising blocks, on the websites of companies dealing with windows, the terms “Euro-montage” and “installation according to GOST” are found. In this case, first of all, they mean state standards 30971 and R 52749 of the current edition. It is in these documents that the correct installation is prescribed.

Meaning of quarters

Almost all experts definitely recommend quarters ; they are important for window openings in gas-block houses. The necessity and meaning of these elements is a traditional subject of debate when discussing or describing installation.

A quarter is an optional element; you can do without it. This position is enshrined in most manufacturers of aerated concrete blocks, in their technological maps and descriptions of design solutions.

It usually sounds like this: “with single-layer GB walls, openings for doors/windows are usually without quarters. The gaps between them and the frame (block) are carefully sealed with polyurethane foam , and the slopes are plastered. It is recommended to protect the window sill segment of the outer wall with roofing steel drains.”

And also GOSTs allow both the presence and absence of quarters; according to the documents, there is no urgent need for them. But if this element is present, then it is definitely better: the vast majority of craftsmen believe that the method with these protrusions is superior.

The meaning of quarters: window installation is simpler, serves as an additional fixing element against which the block rests , creates additional protection and insulation. With them the opening is visually more attractive. Without a quarter, you will have to use not a vapor-permeable membrane, but strictly special expensive sealants that are difficult to apply (for example, Steez).

You can make pseudo-quarters from mineral wool, polystyrene foam, or plaster, but it is better to create a full-fledged element - cut it out of the same GB blocks using improvised tools.

You can even use a regular hacksaw, but the process will be very labor-intensive and will increase the amount of nervousness. It is advisable to do this with a circular saw, a simple electric saw or on aerated concrete. The thickness and width of the quarters depends on the depth of the block , usually 5x5, 4x4, or 5x10.

Reference! If the upper jumper is made of a metal corner, then it is difficult to attach the GB, so in such cases the quarter is often made of EPS, glued with ordinary mounting foam, and fixed into the masonry with wood screws (black, screws) with fungi for insulation.

In the photo below, a quarter is cut out of a 75 block. Here we measured a gap of 4 cm on the tabletop on the side of the saw blade (this is the thickness of this element) and screwed a rule at this distance, thus creating a kind of guide. When cutting, the block moves, resting on the edge of such a limiter, resulting in a perfectly even cut.

Next, the quarters, starting from the top, are fixed with standard glue-foam for GB, screwed with self-tapping screws (length 100 or 70 mm). You can use black wood screws, that is. At the bottom of the window, quarters are not required, since the ebb is installed there

For cutting, you can use a “parquet” (manual disk, circular):

The quarters can also be made by gating, that is, cutting them out with a grinder, but this is a very labor-intensive process, and you also need to take into account that the jumper at the top must have sufficient support (it is reduced with this option). A simpler situation is when the outside of the house is faced with brick - the described elements are made during laying.

If the facade is not finished with solid stone material, but is plastered, then the window junction is covered with slopes (EPS) - this can be considered as a replacement for quarters. False, but still more complete, these parts can also be made in any case during exterior work from polystyrene foam and plaster.

Building walls made of aerated concrete and lintels

Characteristics of the walls (sides) of the opening in structures made of GB for windows:

Bottom .
It is created like regular wall masonry. The blocks are lifted as a single sheet, adhering to the order, to the lower limit of the height of the opening for the double-glazed window. Especially for aerated concrete, it is desirable to strengthen this part and distribute the load more evenly, for which a reinforced belt is used. The length of the groove is 90 cm greater than the width of the opening on both sides, the depth and width are 2.5 cm. The distance from the ends of the blocks is 5 - 6 cm. In the window sill segment, the reinforcement is placed on the surface, and not in the seam under the window sill blocks, otherwise cracks will appear .
Sides . The laying continues as usual, the adhesive composition is used as usual, the blocks are shifted with each row by ½, ⅓, ¼ part. It is recommended to leave them intact at the openings and not to cut them. However, this is not always possible; this rule is not particularly significant.
Top _ There is definitely a jumper here. Let's consider them separately.

Types of jumpers:

Solid finished blocks . They rest on the walls 25...30 cm on each side. They are fixed like all blocks - with an adhesive solution, after which the masonry is standard.
U-blocks, with tray (cavity) .
Together with jumpers from corners, the most popular. For them it is necessary to create wooden or metal temporary supports. These products are laid on them with the solid side down, so that they extend 25...30 cm on each side. The joints with the wall and the vertical seam are glued. Insulation is installed in the blocks (inside) on the side facing the street. Leave a little space for reinforcement and make it. Fill everything with concrete, level the mortar along the edges, remove the supports after complete drying, and continue laying the walls.
Monolithic . The formwork is assembled along the width of the lintel, the sides are 25...30 cm. The structure is supported by beams and pipes. Insulation is placed in the formwork on the street side, and a reinforced frame is placed below. Fill the mold according to the height of the row. After drying, remove the supports and remove the formwork.
Metal corners .
Cheap, very simple and popular method, but also quite effective. Here the side walls of the opening serve as supports; ½ of the blocks on each side should fit on them. The seams are taped vertically. They make grooves for the corners, extending onto these supports and further into ⅓ of the width of the opening. These metal strips are treated with anti-corrosion compounds, wrapped with a plaster mesh, then placed in the described recess and plastered along with the finish.
No gain . On the side walls of the opening, grooves ⅔ of its width are punched, 4 pieces on each side. Reinforcement bars are pushed in there, and these recesses are filled with cement-sand mixture and concrete. After drying, gas blocks are placed in a row on the rods, their side segments should extend onto the walls on each side. The seams are taped vertically.

Interesting! A special feature of houses made from aerated concrete blocks is that you can cut openings for windows, doors and other elements anywhere on a solid wall in the finished building. Moreover, the tools for this are very standard, for example, a grinder or a special inexpensive alligator saw for aerated concrete.

According to GOST 11214-2003, SNiP 23-05-95 (SP 52.13330.2011), SP 23.102.2003, the standard parameters of openings for windows for private houses are as follows:

Width 87 cm...2.67 m; height 1.16...2.06 m.
Should be approximately an eighth (1:8) of the floor area of the room. For bathrooms, utility rooms, non-residential segments - no more than 3%. This ratio may differ; more detailed calculations with formulas are contained in SP 23.102.2003 (R.7).
The structural part must provide for installation, in addition to a block with glass, a window sill, slopes, seals, and drains.

In most cases, standard double-glazed windows are chosen and openings are created under them - fortunately, there are enough model options. But nothing prevents you from installing windows on an individual order - this will not greatly increase costs. But in this case, changes will need to be made to the standard project of a house under construction, which will complicate the process somewhat.

The features of openings in GB houses are due to the following. The pressure on the opening blocks is characterized by noticeable unevenness: the lower stones support part of the weight of the wall and the pressure of the window structure; the upper ones - the load from the ceiling, masonry above them.

If you do not create reinforcement in these places - a reinforced belt in the first of these places, lintels for the second - then cracks will appear there, since GB is cellular concrete, it is more fragile than ordinary mortar or even brick.

The width of the opening is largely determined by the type of lintel:

Jumper	Opening width (in meters), lintel features
Monolithic factory	up to 2.5; specially created for GB, speeds up the process of building a house significantly; block strength D500 – D700 with reinforcement; do not create cold bridges; homogeneous design, which is convenient for finishing; buy such products that correspond to the size of the wall blocks, so there will be no gaps during installation; for load-bearing walls they can be heavy - up to 200 kg; lifting equipment may be required.
U	until 3; This is a kind of formwork, only made from stone forms with a tray.
Monolithic, poured into formwork on site, directly on the box of the house	any sizes; cheap and very reliable option, but labor-intensive; can withstand any load.
Metal corners	up to 1.2 m or a little more, but only if you arrange supports or take thicker metal and calculate this element individually; popular, since for standard small openings better reinforcement is not required; the width of the slats is not less than 50 mm; a budget option; the size of the masonry above such an element should be up to ⅔ of the width of the opening.

How to choose a cutting method?

The cutting method is selected depending on whether the wall is monolithic, made of slabs or panels:

In order to make a window or doorway in a concrete wall or expand an existing one, diamond cutting devices are used, which are fixed in different types of equipment.
The walls of the building are made of monolithic concrete and are supported by reinforced concrete, so the load on them is minimal. You can make a new opening for a door or window using diamond tools.
If the house is panel, then a very large load is placed on the walls of the lower floors, so additional openings in such houses are allowed only on the upper floors. For cutting, equipment that operates without vibration is used, with diamond blades, saws and drills.

Basic norms

Regulatory acts on openings and installation of windows:

GOSTs: 11214-2003 (basic), R 52749, 30674, 30971;
SNiP 23-02, 23-05-95 (SP 52.13330.2011);
SP 23.102.2003.

In our case, deformation processes during the shrinkage of walls and the foundation of a building are not caused by the evaporation of moisture from concrete and blocks, but mainly by the lowering/rising of the soil due to freezing/thawing (frost heaving).

Reinforced frames are used for the base, and for the walls - the same concrete belts , poured at the level of interfloor ceilings; without them, cracks in aerated concrete are guaranteed on weak and water-saturated soils.

There is an opinion that windows in GB can be installed after 1 year from the completion of construction so that the soil is stabilized. This is not so: the processes of soil displacement are continuous, but they are compensated by reinforced belts, and we also do not have to wait for the concrete, masonry mortar to harden, etc.

Important. The openings can be filled in 2–3 months. This time is enough for the foundation and masonry adhesive to gain the required strength. In our case, we must rely not on the complete completion of the building’s settlement, but on the quality of construction, and especially the reinforcement.

When installing a window, the main thing is to ensure the tightness of the seam, protection of the contact zone (“window-wall”) from heat loss and its mechanical strength.

There are standards for installation depth::

Wall thickness (cm)	Window depth (cm)
20	8
30	10
40	12

If there is insulation, a thorough lining (with brick) of the outer wall of the opening, then the windows are mounted closer to its edge (from the street), leaving only 3 - 5 cm for subsequent fixation of the slopes, external cladding, and quarters.

Reference! Indentations from the outer edge of the opening are made in any case: this way the bindings will be protected from condensation and freezing due to the dew point moving outside the frame. Recession is also desirable for better visual perception.

Other rules when installing windows in a house from GB:

When installing on plates, you will need at least 5 of them. on a standard block (one at the top and bottom, two at the sides). Such side brackets should be 15 cm away from the corners of the frame.
During installation, the gap (step) between fasteners should be no more than 70 cm for white profiles and up to 60 cm for colored ones.
For strong fastening, uniform position, to create a gap under the foam, the window block is placed on support blocks, with spacer elements on the sides.
External slopes must be insulated, however, this is also highly desirable for internal slopes, where expansion joints are also installed. The gap between the window sill is sealed with a special waterproofing sealant.
Low tide (also known as a drip sill, often called the same window sill) is a metal plate on the street under the window).
They are placed at an angle and when arranging it, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the pie - insulation + plaster, if such are planned. However, temporary such elements can also be installed if the cladding will be done later. The ebb tides, although in this form, must be installed immediately after installing the window.
It is recommended to install the maximum number of windows on the southern (sunny) side of the building.
Windows must be placed level: permissible vertical/horizontal deviations of up to 3 mm on one side and 1.5 mm per 1 linear meter along the length of the frame. During the installation process, you should often check this parameter with a level.

Important! The installation seam must be three-layered, with a width from the corner of 150 - 180 cm. Sealing is mandatory.

If there is no external insulation, then the recess of the window block is more significant, it is equal to the distance of 1/3 from the outer plane of such a single-layer wall, depending on its thickness, which is approximately 8...12 cm from the edge of the opening.

Assembly seam

But first, we will look at how a window opening is insulated during the process of filling it and what an assembly seam is.

The installation seam under the window consists of the following layers :

Central . The main one is the main sealing. Inside the joint, between the frame and the wall. As a rule, from polyurethane foam (polyurethane) or other insulation. Purpose – main heat, sound, waterproofing. It is this that must be protected first of all, since the foam is destroyed under the sun (ultraviolet radiation), changes color, and crumbles.
Internal – vapor-permeable membrane . Releases moisture accumulated in the room and serves as an obstacle to its entry from the street. Also, sometimes this layer includes coating the walls of the opening with cement waterproofing.
Outdoor . In this case, a fairly traditional solution: PSUL tape about quarters and a vapor-permeable membrane for outdoor use under the drain (it carries moisture further out into the street).

The first protection of foam, another insulation of the central layer, is PSUL tape; it insulates from blowing and ultraviolet radiation, expands 3...5 times, filling uneven areas. This layer also acts as waterproofing, and this is very important, since materials tend to absorb moisture, and their heat capacity properties deteriorate.

Interesting! A quarter helps the PSUL perform all its functions and serves as protection for it. This protrusion also facilitates the installation of the entire structure - during installation, all that remains is to press the window frame, check the vertical/horizontal deviations, there is no need to nail temporary boards, etc.

The inside of the assembly seam and the foam in it must also be protected. The danger here is the steam generated due to breathing, cooking, and temperature changes.

Therefore, a vapor-permeable membrane is glued (usually foil, but there is also a black one, one layer of which resembles bitumen); it has a divided protective film on one side so that it can be glued to the frame, and then the second part to the slope. Such materials are available for interior and exterior use.

How to measure an opening?

According to GOST 30971, work on installing a window begins with an assessment of the walls, which must be cleaned of dirt (especially from glue deposits, construction chemicals), leveled with putty, and with measurements.

The diagrams below comprehensively show how the dimensions of a window unit are determined when ordering it. The height is equal to that of the opening minus twice the width of the installation gap (since it is on both sides); in the figure it is designated as “installation foam”.

If there are quarters, then we take into account that the window goes beyond them, that is, this segment does not take part in the calculation, or, if we take only the visible part of the frame that has already gone beyond them, then we add 15 mm (the interval of the indicated protrusion elements, beyond which she is hiding).

We start from the outer boundary of the thickness of the planned layer of the installation gap made on the opening. The height is determined in the same way, only here at the bottom there is usually 40 mm, which is occupied by the ebb + stand profile + foam, and on top only the latter, it is these numbers that we subtract.

Note. The height/thickness of the mounting gaps and stand profile may vary, so we adjust the numbers for each specific case.

Jumper prices

The cost of aerated concrete, reinforced lintels depends on their size and manufacturer. They are manufactured by factories specializing in the production of aerated concrete blocks.

As an example, here is the price list of one of the leading Russian manufacturers represented on the markets of Moscow and the Moscow region:

Length x width, mm.	Wholesale price, rub./1 pc.	Retail from the factory, rub./1 pc.
1 200 x 100	435	465
1,500 x 100	541	571
1 200 x 150	648	694
2,000 x 100	710	765
1,500 x 100	801	856
1 200 x 200	854	915
2,000 x 150	1 066	1 145
1,500 x 200	1 069	1 148
2 500 x 150	1 432	1 498
2,000 x 200	1 425	1 501
3,000 x 150	1 602	1 720
1,500 x 300	1 602	1 720
3,000 x 200	2 135	2 298
2,000 x 300	2 125	2 289
2 500 x 300	2 658	2 852
3,000 x 300	3 189	3 422

Reinforced beams are an integral element in the construction technology of cellular concrete. Designed to distribute the load from the rows located above, armored belts and other elements pressing on the base. The absence of cracks in the walls is guaranteed only if technological features and building codes are observed during their installation.

Rules for choosing a window type

Aerated concrete has less heat capacity than brick, so the choice of suitable double-glazed windows is different - you need to choose models with good, enhanced heat conservation. What to pay attention to:

We take into account that there are cameras in the glazing and in the profile; the latter affect heat saving no less than the former.

For a house made of aerated concrete in a temperate climate, windows with cameras will be sufficient: one in the glazing, at least three in the profile. Still, for GB a certain average reliable standard is a product with the first two (3 glasses), this is also a certain minimum for such cold regions as Siberia.

Panoramic glazing

Today, panoramic glazing for private homes is becoming increasingly popular. The views that open from the panoramic windows are simply enchanting.

Reviews of megacities, magnificent natural landscapes, a sense of light, freedom and space!

Advantages of panoramic glazing

Abundance of transmitted light. This will help visually expand the room and make it much lighter.
Reduced electricity costs due to increased solar light flow.
The use of reflective, energy-efficient glass will help keep you warm in winter and cool in summer.
Unlimited number of design options, finishes and structures.
Style and presentability of the room.

Disadvantages of panoramic glazing

High cost of quality materials, proper installation, maintenance and repair of panoramic windows.
The need for proper planning, as well as the design of a room with panoramic glazing.
Difficulty in washing and cleaning panoramic windows.
Additional costs for the installation of thermal convectors for heating, as well as air conditioners for cooling.

Panoramic glazing methods

Frame glazing is the most convenient and reliable. With this option, a double-glazed window is used, which is built into a frame made of plastic, fiberglass or aluminum, which allows for thermal and sound insulation.
Frameless glazing involves a “cold” glazing method without the use of frames. With this option, tempered glass is attached to the lower and upper beams using roller bearings, which ensure good sliding of the glass along the wall. The optimal width of such a window is 650 mm, but the length can reach up to 3 m.

Tools and materials

To install a window in a house from GB in a finished opening you will need the following :

Hammer, drill, screwdriver.
A hand saw or a wood saw, but it is difficult to work with them, so it is better to use a compact circular saw, a special electric one for aerated concrete (alligator). You can also use a machine with a circular saw.
Planer for gas blocks.
Big rule.
Graters for GB. At least two with different grain sizes: A63 and nail for significant steps. You can replace some of them with coarse sandpaper.
The construction level is high.
Black wood screws (length 100 or 70 mm).
Pins, plates, screws and dowels for them (we will look at them in more detail during the installation description).
Brush, spray bottle for applying primer and other mixtures.
Mounting foam with a gun, cement waterproofing coating, vapor-permeable tape, external and internal.
Plastic spacer and support wedges.
Putty knife.

Do-it-yourself window openings in the walls of a house made of aerated concrete.

Posted By: YanaShi 05/18/2017

The reinforcement under the window openings along the entire perimeter of our house under construction is ready. Now let's move on to the openings themselves.

The entire work process will be described using the example of one of the windows. In our case, in order to fully comply with the house design, we needed to saw down the blocks on the bottom side of the window so that the window would be at the height we needed, namely 850 mm from the floor level. If you don’t want to put in extra effort (although the process is quite simple), then you could do without this procedure. But we still did this work.

The first step is to make markings. As mentioned earlier, our window, which we took as an example, should be at a level of 85 cm, and the width should be 180 cm. Advice from experience and folk wisdom: “Measure seven times and cut once” is very relevant in this case .
In order for our window to be positioned evenly and to avoid any visible or invisible bevels, we created a so-called homemade level from an ordinary wooden board. We attached it with self-tapping screws to the wall below the level of the proposed window at a distance that we just need to cut down in the wall of aerated concrete blocks. The board was installed in a similar way on the outside of the house.

Do-it-yourself window sill in the house.

Use a marker to draw straight lines for cutting. Our guide for the lines (i.e. ruler) are nailed wooden boards. We remove the board from the inside of the house, and leave it on the outside. In our case, the reciprocating saw did not reach the end of the block and we had to cut the blocks with a hand-held circular saw before starting work on the inside and outside of the house for convenience.
We cut off the extra sections of blocks in the window sill.
On the sides of the future window we sawed off several approximately equal rectangles. This procedure was very similar to slicing bread. And then they were carefully removed using metal corners, breaking off each of the “cut pieces.” After the corners were prepared, we moved on to sawing off the main part of the opening for the window. Our main tool in making the opening was a reciprocating saw, which was occasionally assisted by a circular saw. We make a window sill in the house.
Using a planer for aerated concrete, we bring the surface into complete order.

Thus, we prepared a window sill in our house under construction. This work did not cause us any particular difficulties. And in order to make it clearer what the whole process of making a window opening actually looks like, as usual, we offer you a video review from the construction site from our YouTube channel “Do-it-yourself.” We are waiting for your comments and see you again!

Step-by-step instruction

There are 2 ways to install window blocks in GB structures:

on the plates;
on dowels (self-tapping screws with dowels or screws), sometimes this method is called unpacking.

The first stage is always preparing and leveling the surfaces. They are detected as follows. We apply a long rule to the surface - in places of unevenness it will not fit tightly, you need to press it, move it, risks will remain. We erase these marks with a grater. We process all the walls in this way.

Important. There should be no protrusions between the blocks, especially on the outer part.

At the same time, graters remove deposits of glue and construction mixtures. The blocks usually do not have any irregularities, so the grooves and seams on them are simply cleaned. We will get even quarters, there may be some clearance, but minimal (1...2 mm).

Installation of double-glazed windows on plates

There are 2 types of installation on plates : they are attached to ordinary wood screws (with wide threads) and more reliable (preferred) - to self-tapping screws with dowels for aerated concrete.
The principle of the process is similar, only these details differ. Let's consider the second type.

The method is used for small, medium-sized windows. Fastening is done using stainless steel anchor plates , for example, 40x160x2 mm. They are fixed in aerated concrete with dowels and self-tapping screws (6x60 mm).

The plates are installed in increments of no more than 70 cm (60 cm for colored profiles). The distance from the imposts is 15 cm, from the inner corner of the frame – 20 cm. To set the even position of the window in the opening and the gap for the foam, plastic wedges are used.

To begin with, glue a foil (maybe bitumen) tape to the frame on one side for internal insulation - this is vapor-permeable protection. One part of it is fixed to the frame, the second later - when installing the block to the opening, that is, it has two separated protective strips so that the segments can be fixed separately for each stage of installation.

If the standard sizes of the plates have protrusions to fit the groove of the window profile, then they are inserted into it and pushed into place, but if not, then they are simply attached and fixed with anchors. Typically, the brackets are attached to 2 self-tapping screws with a drill against the outer end of the frame.

Advice! There are simple plates and those with a special butterfly for the profile groove; if the latter are purchased, then they must fit the specific existing profile. There are also universal sizes that are screwed without going into the cutout of the block.

You can also make the plates yourself. Some craftsmen believe that such ready-made brackets are flimsy, so they simply take thicker sheets of steel and cut these parts, making holes in them with metal drills.

Then PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame, which expands over time, filling the free space, sealing the joint between the quarter and the outside of the window block. Next, we install the frame in its final position and check it with a level vertically and horizontally. We cut out in quarters the places for installing ebb tides .

Next, so that the frame does not move from the set position, we screw the plates to the walls of the opening, for now only with black wood screws. Then in the wall we make a hole with a drill (ten) for special anchors for fastening into aerated concrete. We poured some glue-foam for GB there, then we screwed in special dowels (hexagon socket), with 6x70 self-tapping screws in them.

Then the seam is foamed from the outside: first the cutout under the ebb, then the places near the pads, and then they themselves. A kind of seam is made from this substance. The main thing is that there are no air bubbles. Then glue the outer vapor-permeable tape under the ebb and install it.

After the exterior work is done, all the seams inside are foamed , the remaining segment of the vapor-permeable tape is fixed with the sticky side to the opening, and the plates themselves are sealed with pieces of it.

Dowel mount

The method of fixing with anchors is more complex, since before installation it will be necessary to disassemble the frame (unpack), that is, remove the sashes or glazing (chambers). Self-tapping screws for concrete (7.5x152) are used, screwed into plastic dowels, since these fasteners themselves do not hold well in the GB. As usual, wedges are also used to level the block.

Important. You will need a lot of polyurethane foam, it is advisable to take more expensive, better quality foam, this is important - the main insulation of the seam will be made from it.

A vapor-permeable tape is essential - it can be metallized (foil) or coated with a coating similar to bitumen. Used to isolate foam joints from moisture. There is such material for internal and external work.

First stage: cleaning the opening.

It is important to remove all contaminants from the surface , and especially deposits of aerated concrete adhesive, since when moisture gets on it, it holds it, that is, it worsens the waterproofing.

Contamination with it will negate all protection efforts, cause freezing and condensation, the GB unit will be saturated with water and can simply be removed.

After cleaning, the opening must be primed with a compound for deep penetration , preferably 2 times. This will be required to improve the insulating properties and to ensure that the foam sticks better (adhesion will increase).

After priming, in our example, the opening is coated with cement waterproofing, thus creating ideal protection for the walls.

The next stage is creating quarters . We described it above. Here, too, they sawed GB bars and attached them with glue and self-tapping screws. Don’t forget to stick PSUL tape between this element and the frame.

If there are holes in the walls of the opening (for us these are “handles” on the blocks), then we foam them on top and leave them empty. You cannot fill it with glue, as it retains moisture, conducts heat well, and creates a cold bridge. The photo shows its sagging - we must remove them (with a grater). We also cover and seal other holes.

We have a jumper with a corner, so it was not possible to secure the upper quarter, however, it can then be made from EPS. In the second photo, the opening is completely primed (we used a spray bottle), chips and holes are sealed with foam, and some of the walls have already been coated with cement waterproofing with a brush.

Advice! If you plan to install mosquito nets, then it is advisable to attach them before installing the window.

We use self-tapping screws for concrete, screwing it not completely into the frame.

Holes in accordance with GOST are drilled according to the following pattern (fasteners must be evenly distributed, they must be placed near the imposts at the top and bottom):

From the edges (internal corners) and from the central post (impost) 15 cm.
If there is more than 70 cm between the screws, then another one is screwed in in this gap, preferably as equidistantly as possible.

The holes are made with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm specifically for metal , since the profile has a spacer frame made of this material, the self-tapping screws (7.5 mm) hold on to it, and not to the plastic.
We place the window in the opening, align it, secure it, mark holes for the screws, and screw them in. Self-tapping screws for concrete do not hold very well: impacts from the doors and gusts of wind can loosen them, so in our example the frame was removed again and the fasteners were unscrewed. Using a drill (ten) we drilled out their holes, inserted special plastic (nylon) dowels for aerated concrete (with protruding spiral wings), and hammered them in with a hammer.

Next, on the frame along the profile segment adjacent to the quarter, we glue PSUL and foil vapor-permeable tape at the ends along the perimeter (letter P, that is, except for the bottom). Insert a window.

Peculiarity! The vapor-permeable film is glued to the end of the frame so that when the block is inserted into the opening, it protrudes parallel to the slope.

First, it is fixed in one part to the frame, then a double-glazed window is inserted, fastening is made, then the joint is foamed, then the protective film is removed from the second segment of the tape, pressed and, smoothing it, tightly fixed to the wall. When finishing slopes, the vapor barrier is also plastered and puttied, so reliable protection is created.

We tighten the screws with a screwdriver. Before inserting the sash and glass, we insulate the installation seam from the street . We glue a special outer membrane tape.

The internal (foil in our case) material allows steam accumulated in the room to pass through and at the same time serves as a barrier to prevent moisture from entering from the outside. External (we have a coating similar to bitumen) - takes it further to the street.

We put a drip on top of the tape, also known as ebb . It must be installed, even if external finishing and insulation are not planned yet: a stainless steel plate will protect the insulation and seam from ultraviolet radiation and precipitation.

We glue the outer tape so that one half goes to the window sill, the other to the frame. The drip cap was screwed onto 4 self-tapping screws.

If there is a sash, then for the installation method we are describing, it is removed along with the glazing, but if the window is solid, then the block with cameras is dismantled, that is, they are unpacked. Now we hang or insert these parts.

Advice! It is important to remember: the sticker or marking on the glass should look inside the room, especially if there is a coating, so the product with it will be correctly placed - with this coating inside the room.

Next, we foam the block around the perimeter, cut off the excess of this substance, remove the protective film from the vapor barrier, and glue it to the slopes.

Differences for wooden

There is no particular difference between installing wooden and plastic windows in a house made of aerated blocks. The methods are the same: on plates or on self-tapping screws. Only for wooden blocks can a wider range of screws and anchors be used .

The advantage of wooden structures is that their weight is slightly lower, so the work is easier. Expansion and frame anchors, as well as concrete screws, are used. Only first the frame must be drilled for such fasteners.

It should be taken into account that wooden blocks are also mounted in casings, that is, in special boxes . In this case, the process becomes much more complicated.

Installing windows on dowels (unpacking)

This method of fastening windows is complicated in that before installation the frame must be completely disassembled, that is, all sashes must be removed. Next, alignment and fixation is carried out across the entire profile with long stainless self-tapping screws (metal dowels). The distance between the dowels should be about 40 cm.

The unpacking method is most often used for installing large windows with an area of more than 4 meters.

After installing the profile, the entire window system is assembled and adjusted again.

Finishing nuances

Protection on the outside of the quarters is done as follows: vapor-permeable plaster or cement-based putty is applied to the reinforcing façade mesh. It is leveled with a spatula and sanded for painting, then another layer of similar finishing will be placed on it, since it will be used to decorate the walls.

At low tide, a groove was cut in the quarter:

The ideal option is to arrange an expansion joint (in addition to the foam, a special gasket is pushed into it) along the perimeter of the joint, where the window block is adjacent to the opening, and where the window sill is, the gap is sealed with a special sealant-coating.

But this question rather relates to the finishing of slopes, which it is highly desirable to make insulated (external ones are a must) or if they are made of plaster, then do it in several layers.

After installation, the plastic glass unit is adjusted (the mode is set, the pressure is adjusted, the distortions of the sashes are corrected), if the geometry of the profile is broken, then wedging may be necessary.

Peculiarity! During the installation process, it may be necessary to unpack (if the structure is without sashes, solid) - remove the glass from the profile. This is done extremely simply - with an object with a blunt thin blade (a spatula), the glazing beads are snapped off and the chambers are removed.

Reassemble in the reverse order: insert the glass block and snap these retaining strips into place.

Support depth

For the reliability of the entire structure, it is very important to correctly calculate such parameters as the support area, the length and width of the reinforcing products. These components are determined based on the width of the window opening, as well as the height of the masonry above it. The depth of support of the lintels on the aerated concrete wall or the minimum length of insertion into the masonry is determined depending on their type. The most popular options are:

A reinforced product made of high-strength cellular concrete with an opening length of up to 174 cm. If the device is used for a load-bearing structure, then the minimum support value is 25 cm.
Reinforced concrete product. For a window opening up to 300 cm wide, the load-bearing U-shaped lintel is inserted into the masonry at 25 cm; a monolithic structure for an opening up to 200 cm is inserted at 35 cm. The second option, unlike the first, requires additional external insulation.
Made from metal elements. For a window opening width of up to 200 cm, it is inserted into the masonry by 20 cm. It must be recessed into the wall.

The option without jumpers is also used in practice. To implement this plan, several requirements must be met:

The width of the window opening does not exceed 120 cm.
The height of the masonry above the frame is no more than 2/3 of the width of the opening.
Temporary formwork is being installed.
Reinforcement of several rows is carried out above the strengthening.
The voids are filled with aerated concrete adhesive.

Possible difficulties and errors

Miscalculations and difficult moments in installing windows in an aerated concrete house:

Cutting quarters with a hand hacksaw is more difficult; you will need to level them more carefully with a grater.
Incorrect thermal and waterproofing (including slopes), incorrect removal of the window in the opening from its outer edge will lead to the creation of cold bridges and the formation of condensation.
Incorrect placement of the block in the opening: if the gaps are too narrow, it will be impossible to perform a high-quality seal.
Well, too large a gap creates an excessive load on the fasteners, they become deformed and become loose. If you do not use special supporting wedges, this will lead to destruction of the assembly seam, disruption of the block geometry, and the resulting cracks will be blown out.
The frame drainage hole must not be blocked.
A common mistake is poor-quality foaming, insufficient volume of this substance, especially from below. To the point that if large air chambers and lack of density are detected, then you need to select the old layer or part of it and seal the joint again, slowly and carefully.
If the external cladding is made of hollow materials, for example, not solid bricks and its holes stick up under the window opening, then these cavities must be filled with cement-sand mortar.
Do not hide the ends of EPS, if it is used for pseudo-quarters, insulation (between the cladding and the wall). This material must be hidden behind blocks or its ends covered for fire safety purposes, and this way it will not deteriorate.
If there is no ebb (drip) installed outside under the window, then water and ultraviolet radiation will fall on the mounting foam of the seam, which will neutralize its quality and thermal insulation, and the fasteners will corrode.
This strip must be secured not only in the gaps cut on the blocks, but also with self-tapping screws, otherwise the wind will tear it out. The flashing should be installed at least on an external vapor-permeable membrane, and it would be ideal to also lay a sound-absorbing gasket on it.
An insufficient number of fasteners, if the windows are in windy areas and if the block is heavy, will lead to their loosening, deformation, and the window may be squeezed out.
Therefore, you can add several additional screws and plates. But not too much, since this will deteriorate the heat capacity of the profile and it may be damaged. The installation diagram of fasteners with their maximum pitch must be followed.
The vapor barrier (external, internal) is not installed or is glued poorly - it needs to be pressed well, smoothed out so that there are no unevenness or wrinkles. Before this, the wall is cleaned of dust, glue, and degreased. If this material is missing, the foam will deteriorate very soon: under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and moisture, it will change its color to reddish and crumble.
When taking measurements, it is necessary to take into account the layers of insulation.
Do not install on a dirty surface (especially glue sagging), unevenness (small up to 1 - 2 mm are allowed), potholes, chips.
The surface of the opening walls is not primed. In this case, the foam will not stick well, there will be low adhesion, it will be mobile, which will lead to the formation of cracks, etc.

Cutting methods

In order to make a passage in the main wall, you will need special cutting tools. You cannot use a percussion tool, such as a hammer drill, for such work, because strong vibration will lead to cracks and chipping of the material.

Work on cutting openings is carried out by several types of cutting:

diamond;
cold cutting (water jet method);
laser cutting (oxygen-lance drilling);
hammer drill and grinder.

Diamond cutting

Diamond cutting is one of the most popular methods of forming a window or door opening. In this way you can make an opening for both a door and a window. To work, you will need a diamond-coated disk attachment and a container of water to immerse the tool in it for cooling and reduce the amount of dust.

The method has the following advantages:

due to low vibration, cracks in the walls are excluded;
the most accurate cutting along pre-designated lines;
low noise level;
a small amount of dust and debris.

Despite the large number of advantages, this method has some disadvantages:

high price of working material (diamond blades);
regular cooling with water;
high energy consumption.

Waterjet method

This method is less popular compared to the previous one, because the work uses sand and a jet of water under pressure. The speed of the water jet is 1000 m/s.

Water enters a special tank, where it is mixed with sand, from there the mixture under high pressure through a nozzle with a hole diameter of 0.4 mm is sent to the cutting site. To reduce the residual force of the jet, a water trap is used.

Cutting with water has the following advantages:

the cut location comes out precise and even;
concrete does not become hot during cutting, so there are no harmful fumes;
there is no strong noise or vibration during operation;
cutting can be done at any angle;
formation of openings of various shapes.

Disadvantages of water cutting:

not applicable for apartments due to the large size of the fixture and water use;
high cost of abrasive material.

Oxygen lance drilling or laser cutting

This type of work is carried out using a thick spear made in the shape of a pipe through which oxygen flows. The spear heats up to 1400°, at the end of which the temperature reaches 2000°.

The advantage of this type of cutting is as follows:

accuracy and high efficiency of the method;
minimum cutting width;
maximum smoothness of edges and narrow heating zone;
no edge deformation;
Possibility of cutting concrete into different shapes.

Punching with a hammer drill and grinder

If you need to make an opening in a thin concrete wall, you can use a hammer drill and a good grinder. The discs are selected taking into account the thickness of the wall.

The advantages of this method include accessibility and low cost, but the disadvantages are that making an opening in a load-bearing concrete wall will require a lot of effort and time.

Approach to work

There are several fastening technologies, all of them can be applied, everything depends on the individual preferences of the builder and the ability to use certain materials. One of the most common installation methods is the use of construction foam. This material helps to quickly fix the window, make the opening airtight, and does not require the use of additional fasteners. Installation of PVC windows in aerated concrete is also possible using a more traditional method. Dowels and other fasteners are used for this. Both approaches have their place, each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, so each master will choose according to his own taste.