Why does condensation form on plastic windows in winter?

How pleasing to the eye are the transparent, clean glass, elegant, neat frames, well-chosen window fittings... And how unpleasant it is to find water streaks and a complete lack of visibility on all this beauty! Why does condensation form on windows? How can we make sure that it doesn’t exist or at least becomes significantly smaller?

There are three main ways to solve the problem:

reduce indoor humidity;
keep the glass warm;
ensure air movement in the room.

Let us consider the reasons for the formation of condensation and its removal in more detail.

Why does condensation appear on windows?

People who have wooden window frames often complain that condensation appears only on a new PVC window.
This is explained by the fact that wood fibers allow water vapor to pass through better. Often old frames were covered with invisible microcracks, from which a draft blew in in winter. The room could become very cold, but constant air circulation prevented excess humidity from accumulating. PVC glazing is completely sealed, so dampness simply has nowhere to go. The main reasons for condensation settling on windows are:

high humidity;
impaired convection;
disrupted microclimate;
problems with the glass unit or its assembly;
incorrect installation;
manufacturing defects.

Let's look at them in order.

Modern plastic windows are free from most of the shortcomings of their wooden predecessors. They protect from cold, street dampness, wind and noise. They do not require regular tinting or sealing with paper strips. When installing security fittings, the degree of burglary resistance increases. However, one common problem with wooden and PVC structures remains: condensation still often appears on them.

conclusions

To prevent windows from fogging up, certain measures should be taken. The main condition is that the double-glazed windows must be installed correctly. They should not have any leaks. Other precautions:

regular ventilation of rooms where condensation occurs;
creating high-quality ventilation in the house;
correct choice of profile and glass unit.

By complying with these conditions, you can reduce the risk of condensation on the windows. If it does appear, you should use some ways to eliminate it.

For example, you can put a fan or a candle on the windowsill. In both cases, warm air will warm the glass, which will prevent condensation from settling. Often the cause of window fogging is a large window sill. It can be cut so that heat flows upward from the battery unhindered.

When performing window repairs or installations, you should contact experienced professionals. This will eliminate the risk of double-glazed windows fogging.

Comments

Hello, I have a problem with the euro window, condensation is sweating, I think I need to move the window 5 cm inward
Oleg21.04.2021 at 04:45
Answer

What is condensate

Condensation is moisture that forms on PVC windows. It looks like fog or fog on the glass. When there is a lot of it, individual drops roll down under the influence of gravity and merge with each other, leading to the appearance of entire streams.

Air always contains water vapor. Its amount varies depending on the temperature: the warmer it is, the more water can be in a gaseous state. When the temperature drops, excess moisture falls on surfaces in the form of small droplets.

During the cold season, the temperature outside is lower than inside the apartment. Because of this, the windows cool down, the air next to them also becomes colder, and therefore it cannot retain the absorbed steam, and it turns into liquid form - condensation.

High humidity

This is the main answer to the question why condensation forms on windows, especially plastic ones.

The room atmosphere is oversaturated with moisture if:

the roof is leaking;
basement is too damp;
ventilation does not work;
the heating system cannot cope with heating;
the window sill is filled with flowers;
There are too many people in the room.

When you breathe, moisture leaves the lungs along with carbon dioxide. The more people in the room, the more active they are (for example, during physical activity), the faster water evaporates from the body. That is why, when condensation collects on plastic windows, they say that it is because those present have “inhaled.”

The dampness increases during cooking. Boiling pots greatly saturate the air with water vapor. Fogging of glass is also observed during water procedures, washing, and wet cleaning. In this case, the problem is solved by ventilation.

Indoor flowers also actively breathe. Water evaporates from the leaves or directly from the pot immediately after watering. If the glass fogs up next to a flower, it is better to move it to another place. You can do the same with another source of dampness - an aquarium.

It's more difficult to get rid of fogging if the problem is a leaky roof or a flooded basement. Here I advise you to contact the company that manages the house. The same can be done if humidity accumulates due to non-functional ventilation. To check it, you need to bring a lighter or candle to the ventilation holes: if the flame deviates towards the ventilation duct, it means it is working properly, but if the fire remains motionless, the ducts need to be cleaned. Sometimes they are unknowingly bricked up by other residents during renovations.

Penetrating dampness

It is brought in by moist air from the street, often due to wear and tear and defects in the building itself; However, dampness can also appear on solid walls that become wet in heavy rain.

The first sign of damp penetration appears after a heavy rainfall, and it can be found almost anywhere, despite the fact that this place is sometimes located at some distance from the actual leak: mold very often forms exactly where the problem itself is located.

Poor ventilation exacerbates condensation problems.

A moldy area on the inside surface of an exterior wall is usually the first sign of damp penetration.

Convection mode

If the ventilation is working properly, the basement is dry, and the roof is not leaking, if the hygrometer shows a normal level of humidity in the room, but condensation still appears on the plastic windows, then the problem may lie in a violation of the convection regime. Convection is the natural movement of air. Warm air flows from the radiators rise upward, cold air flows down. This is how constant circulation of heat occurs.

Normally, convection currents heat window glass - that is why batteries are placed under windows. This heating prevents fogging. If the windows become foggy or leak, I advise you to check whether the window sill is too wide. It often blocks the flow of heat, causing the glazing to remain cold, which attracts steam. This problem is indicated by condensation at the bottom of the plastic window, just in a non-heated place.

There are several ways out:

The window sill can be shortened.
If the width cannot be changed, you can make ventilation holes in it or insert ventilation ducts.
Remove decorative radiator grilles or install structures that better transmit heat.

Convection is also disrupted by long, thick curtains. To get rid of the problem, you can shorten them, hang lighter tulle, or replace them with curtains. Or, if such a decision spoils the design ideas, you can move the cornice so that there is a gap of several centimeters between the fabric and the window sill.

Prevention

Before starting work to get rid of condensation, you should think about preventing the problem. There are several precautions you should take:

maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room;
creating a natural ventilation system in the room;
external insulation of the building;
reducing the air humidity level in the room to 50%;
eliminating sources of moisture penetration into the room - leaky roof, dampness in the basement;
creation of an effective heating system for double-glazed windows.
Removing plants from the windowsill.

Such precautions will help prevent excessive condensation on the window structure.

The microclimate is disturbed

Another common cause of the problem. Sanitary standards require maintaining a temperature inside residential premises from +18 to +22-23 degrees Celsius. Normal humidity is 30-45%. With these parameters, condensation will not appear on plastic windows. In non-residential rooms the temperature may be higher, but it should not be lower.

The room microclimate is disturbed not only due to sources of excess moisture, which I mentioned above, but also due to insufficient heating. In old houses, cast iron radiators are often clogged, which is why they heat poorly. It is enough to clean them to make the room warmer and the dampness to go away. They are often replaced with new ones made of steel or aluminum, but their service life is shorter than that of cast iron, so I advise you, if possible, not to replace them, but to clean the existing batteries.

If central heating cannot cope, you can install a heated floor system. Another solution is heaters. Installing convectors or fan heaters will also solve the problem of impaired convection. Infrared devices help eliminate mold and dry walls.

Incorrectly selected glass unit and errors in its assembly

Plastic windows need to be selected based on the climatic characteristics of your region. The wrong choice of double-glazed windows and profiles is one of the main reasons why condensation forms in the apartment.

Where winters are warm, a single-chamber double-glazed window is sufficient. It is suitable for southern regions or for cold glazing of balconies and loggias. In the middle zone, or even more so in the north, only double-glazed windows consisting of three glasses should be installed. Additionally, glass can be coated with special coatings that reduce thermal conductivity properties.

If in a cold climate you install a thin profile and a single-chamber double-glazed window, it will cool down too easily due to frost. The dew point will move inside the room - and fogging is inevitable. During severe cold weather, frost and ice form. In this case, there can be no talk of preserving heat. Savings are inappropriate here; it only results in even greater expenses for replacing window components.

If a suitable profile and a reliable double-glazed window are installed, but the glass still flows, an error may have been made during assembly. If drops appear inside the glass unit, this is a 100% defect. This means the seal has been broken.

Illiterate installation of windows and slopes

Installation errors are difficult to notice in summer. They usually appear in winter, when the outside temperature drops. The cause of condensation on plastic windows is insufficient insulation during installation. Excessively thrifty installers often save polyurethane foam and do not fill the seams with it as expected. As a result, voids remain that are unable to retain heat. The glass cools down and fogs up.

The technology requires the use of three-layer insulation. Foam alone is not enough; profiles must be secured using special insulating tapes. Then the foam must be additionally protected from the sun, under whose rays it quickly collapses. To ensure that everything is done correctly, I advise you to contact trusted companies that value their reputation and do not make mistakes.

Condensation can settle not only on windows, but also on walls. Sometimes this happens when the apartment owners, for reasons of economy, decided to install the slopes themselves, but in the process violated the technology. For example, they neglected insulation, insulation, or chose low-quality plaster, paint, or other finishing material. As a result, in winter not only the profile, but also the entire window opening cools down, and the decrease in temperature leads to moisture settling on the wall.

Advice from professionals

Advice from experienced plumbers will help you effectively deal with condensation on pipes:

Many people recommend using the Corrugated composition, which forms an elastic protective film on the surface being treated that prevents moisture formation.
You can effectively use liquid thermal insulation against condensation, which is applied to a dry (necessarily) pipe like paint.
Some experts recommend large-scale insulation of the pipeline. This is necessary when the ventilation, plumbing equipment and water supply are working properly, and the cause of condensation on the pipes is a temperature difference (the pipe and the air space surrounding it). The operation is performed using covers made of foamed polyethylene or Merylene, which can be easily purchased at almost any hardware store.

( 57 votes, average: 4.70 out of 5)

Faucet aerator: which one to choose, or maybe make it yourself?
Loft style in the interior

Defective or incorrectly selected window

Often, when people see condensation on their windows in winter, they blame the company that installed the profiles. However, dissatisfied customers are right in their accusations only 3-5% of the time. Marriage is rare. However, to understand why cloudiness occurs, it is really wise to call installers. They will inspect the window structure, if necessary, use a thermal imager and find the source of the problem. Defects can be indicated by the fact that, with the same humidity in the entire apartment, only one window fogs up.

Both double-glazed windows and profiles have air chambers. Plastic frames are also selected according to climatic conditions. It is better not to save on too thin profiles with three chambers, because they do not retain heat well, easily fail, and are sometimes made of low-quality plastic, especially if you contact dubious companies. According to the standards, the optimal thickness of the outer wall of the profile is 3 mm; for central Russia, the number of chambers should be at least three, and the frame depth should be from 60 mm.

know more

You have questions?

Write!

I'm in touch right now!

Other reasons

Sometimes the sources of moisture are quite unexpected. For example, condensation often appears on windows in a new building or after a major renovation of any building. The fact is that some building materials retain moisture for up to two years. One of them is concrete, cement-sand screed. Other materials - glue, plaster, various mixtures - dry faster, but they can also evaporate excess liquid for weeks.

The opposite situation is that the house is too old. It is exposed to weathering, the exterior finish is gradually destroyed, cracks appear, and drafts arise. The temperature in the room drops, the air gets rid of water vapor, which settles on the glass.

When there has been no repairs for a long time, but the house is like new, the ventilation is working, the heating is working properly, dampness is excluded, the windows can still fog up if there is a very strong frost outside. In this case, there is no need to worry; as soon as it gets warmer, the problem will go away.

Consequences

Walls and floors can take up to one month for every 25mm of thickness to dry, while a layer of old plaster, if heavily contaminated with mineral salts from rising damp, will continue to absorb moisture from the air.

Replacing indoor plaster as a preventative repair is recommended in extreme cases, but this should be delayed as long as possible to allow the walls to dry completely. Try using a mildew remover that appears due to dampness or condensation on the interior wall surfaces.

The consequences of window fogging and what will happen if you don’t deal with it

The appearance of condensation is not only an aesthetic problem. Many people easily accept the fact that plastic windows, when fogged up, temporarily lose their vaunted transparency. However, neglecting this nuisance can lead to much more serious problems.

Firstly,

the degree of illumination decreases. In winter, the days are already very short, it is better not to deprive yourself of sunlight. It is useful for the eyes, immunity, and finally, for the prevention of clinical depression.

Secondly,

Condensation on windows leads to constant dampness, and this is an ideal environment for the proliferation of pathogens, bacteria, fungi and mold growth. The air becomes musty and unpleasant, like in a damp basement. A runny nose appears, the mood of household members deteriorates, sleep is disturbed, and the risk of getting sick increases.

Thirdly, mold, dampness, and bacteria spoil finishing materials. There is nothing pleasant about green and black stains on slopes, ceilings and wallpaper, and they are very difficult to remove. Constant freezing destroys the insulation, and it begins to blow from the frames. In particularly advanced cases, structures become fragile, which threatens dangerous destruction.

How to get rid of condensation

Before you start getting rid of condensation, you need to find the exact reason why drops appear on plastic windows. If you were unable to discover the source of the problem on your own, I advise you to call installers from the company that installed the profiles, especially if the warranty is still valid. However, if the company seems unreliable, you can turn to more professional specialists.

There are also universal remedies that you can try before contacting the specialists:

elimination of heat loss;
drainage;
installation of ventilation;
application of chemistry.

Elimination of heat loss

If condensation appears on windows as a result of problems with thermal insulation, you can:

replace sealing contours;
switch windows to winter mode;
make sure that the cracks around the frame are securely sealed;
install slopes made of plastic panels with insulation or sandwich panels;
insulate the walls.

Sealing rubber bands wear out over time and lose their elasticity and tightness. Sometimes they become deformed due to improper use of the window or as a result of accidental damage. All that remains is to replace them with new ones. They are carefully removed, then new rubber bands are inserted into the grooves without stretching.

Profiles released in the last ten to fifteen years support settings for summer, winter and demi-season modes. In winter mode, the sash is adjacent to the frame with the greatest density, in summer mode it is most loose. The tighter the fit, the higher the tightness. In winter, this prevents drafts with freezing, but in summer the cold is not terrible, so the clamp is loosened for ventilation. To switch, you need to turn the eccentrics of the trunnions at the end of the sash.

You need to check the sealing with polyurethane foam under the window sill, as well as along the entire perimeter of the frame, inside and out. If necessary, the voids must be filled, and then the foam must be covered with finishing materials so that it does not collapse from street dampness and ultraviolet radiation. This is done including slopes. I advise you to equip them with plastic panels or sandwich panels. This guarantees tightness, insulation and durability.

The most radical method is complete insulation of the walls. It is better to attach the insulation material to the outside of the building, so this method is not suitable for every high-rise building; it is usually used for private houses. Additionally, you can insulate the roof and floor if necessary.

Methods for protecting metal pipelines

If metal pipes are not protected from condensation, over time, pockets of corrosion will form on them, leading to destruction. In such cases, the following steps should be taken:

Protect the pipe surface from rust using special compounds. After appropriate treatment, dry the surface, cover it with drying oil, and then paint it.
You can treat the surface of the pipeline with carbolate, a paste used to seal cracks. The composition is applied to the pipe in a layer of 5 mm and left to harden for a day. Then the surface is sanded and painted with oil paint.
Treat the pipes with a protective primer (any commercially available one), consisting of zinc dust mixed with drying oil and epoxy varnishes. The surface coated with the composition and dried will then simply need to be painted.
The pipeline in the toilet can also be coated with a composition of drying oil and red lead (in a ratio of 1:4).
Some people advise putting a corrugation on the pipe (its diameter should be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe), and filling the cavities with foam. This is also an effective solution.
You can also make a plastic box around the pipe on which condensation occurs. And inside such a box, place a special absorbent tablet that can not only eliminate condensation on the pipe, but also normalize the humidity in the entire room.
Install climate control air conditioning. This is an expensive method, of course, but nothing better than this can provide an optimal climatic atmosphere in an apartment or private house.

Air dehumidification

This is the second method of combating fogging. Suitable for drying:

heaters;
special dehumidifiers;
improvised means.

If the humidity is not too high, but sufficient to make the glass “cry,” you can spread salt on the windowsill. Any kind will do - sea, food, coarse or finely ground. After some time, it can be calcined in the oven and reused. Wood or activated carbon and silica gel also absorb moisture. If condensation appears at the bottom of a plastic window due to lack of convection, it can be eliminated with ordinary candles. One or two candles can dry the glass, creating heat flows. The main thing is to monitor safety so that there are no flammable objects nearby. I advise you to light thick candles that burn for at least ten hours.

The easiest way to dry out is regular ventilation. Usually it is enough to open the doors three to four times a day for five to ten minutes.

Ventilation installation

If full ventilation is impossible due to severe frosts, you can choose profiles with a micro-ventilation mode. It involves the installation of special fittings. By turning the handle diagonally (about 75 degrees), you can move the sash to the side so that a gap only a few millimeters thick appears. This is enough to let in fresh air, remove excess dampness, but not lose heat.

Another solution is to install ventilation valves. They are either mechanical or automatic. Mechanical valves allow you to independently select the ventilation intensity by adjusting the mechanism. Automatic devices are equipped with climate sensors. They respond to changes in humidity and temperature, opening the ventilation passages wider or narrower, maintaining an optimal microclimate.

The solution for the kitchen and bathroom is a hood. By turning it on when cooking or during water procedures, you can avoid not only fogging, but also the spread of odors throughout the apartment.

The easiest way to remove condensation is to install a fan. It is suitable as a temporary solution for plastic window sills, slopes and profiles, if only one or two windows become damp, which then will have to be dealt with more precisely in order to completely remove the problem.

Waterproofing layer

The first line of defense against dampness is an effective waterproofing layer combined with a moisture barrier film, supported by a good system of pipes and rainwater drainage gutters, as well as a plumbing system.

Ventilation is key to preventing problems that cause condensation. An air flow corresponding to the volume of the room must be ensured by the design of the building itself through soffit fans and hollow (perforated) bricks; while exhaust fans will effectively remove warm and humid air generated by household activities such as cooking, washing clothes and bathing.

Glass processing means

Special chemistry can serve as a temporary measure. For example, products for treating car glass. Before using them, all dirt must be removed from the windows.

Other compositions for combating condensation:

detergents containing alcohol;
glycerin soap or its solution;
a mixture of glycerin, potassium oil and turpentine in a ratio of 20:40:4;
saline or chalk solution.

Previously, glass was wiped dry with newspapers. Printing ink repels water, so this method can also be used now. However, any chemical reduces fogging for a short time. If the dampness does not go away, then the fogging of the glass will gradually return.

Methods for creating a waterproofing layer

There are many ways to construct a waterproofing layer - from the use of rolled and mastic materials that are embedded in the brickwork, to polymer solutions pumped into the walls through special holes.

In theory, you can do this job yourself, but dealing with rising damp is rarely easy. Here it is worth seeking advice from professionals. If you have a mortgage on your home, the lender may also require guarantees that prevent you from doing the work yourself. The quality standards of this work are as important as the mortgage system used, so you need to choose a reputable company that offers insured guarantees.

A guide for those experiencing condensation for the first time

If, some time after installing the windows, condensation forms for the first time, I suggest the following procedure:

Remove everything that blocks the window: blinds, roller blinds, curtains, etc. If possible, it is better to choose lighter, shorter curtains or at least hang them away from the glass.
Check the functionality of the batteries, especially if the apartment is noticeably cold in winter. Condensation on the inside of the window will most likely evaporate as soon as the room warms up well enough.
Turn on the hood. Open the sash for micro-ventilation. If this causes almost no air movement, check the ventilation ducts. They may become clogged, blocked by neighbors, or birds or pests may become stuck in them.
If there is no effect, install an air dryer.
Install a ventilation grille in the window sill or place an exhaust valve under it.
If you really want to cover the terrible batteries with a screen, it is better to choose a grille that minimally blocks the air flow.
To combat heavy condensation, you can combine methods. For example, put moisture-absorbing materials (salt, coal, silica gel) on the windowsill, and stick nichrome thread or a special conductive film on the windows. By connecting it to a 12-24 V power source, you can achieve the same effect as heating the windows in a car. The main thing is to make sure that the heating is not excessive, otherwise the glass will burst.

Methods for eliminating window condensation

To remove condensation that appears on the window, you need to:

promptly ventilate the room;
place a thick burning candle on the windowsill (that is, ensure air convection);
turn on the fan, creating a moving air flow near the window;
use convection screens (special plates that direct warm air flow from heating radiators to the windows);
apply automotive chemicals (anti-fog sprays) to treat double-glazed windows;
use electricity, that is, lay foil tape, nitrochrome thread or conductive film operating under voltage (12V-24V) along the window perimeter;
use supply ventilation valves aimed at maintaining optimal air exchange in the room.

How to prevent condensation on windows

Fighting condensation on plastic windows can exhaust all your strength. Therefore, it is better not to wait for fogging to appear, but to foresee all possible causes of this problem. In essence, prevention repeats the methods for eliminating the problem, but to consolidate the methods, it is better to list them again.

Ventilation

The simplest method of getting rid of excess moisture. There will be no dampness at home if you open the doors three or four times every day for 4-5 minutes. For efficiency, you can open windows and entrance doors. The main thing is to make sure that the doors do not flapping under gusts of wind.

To avoid hypothermia, you can install frames with micro-ventilation mode. Turning the handle to a diagonal position opens the sash a couple of millimeters. Through such a gap enough fresh air penetrates to remove dampness, while there is no noticeable heat loss.

Installation of valves

In order not to keep the windows open, you can install supply valves on plastic profiles. They are mounted at the bottom or top of the frame. The device has a ventilation duct passing through the profile. From the outside it is closed with a grille. Inside there is a winding air passage, as well as a filter. The device provides a constant flow of air, preventing condensation from accumulating.

Depending on the model, you can adjust the ventilation intensity mechanically, by closing or opening the valve yourself, or automatically, relying on a climate sensor.

An alternative is to install more advanced climate control equipment, for example, a breather. The device keeps the window frame intact since it is mounted into the wall. The device acts as an improved air conditioner that takes air from outside, heats it, cleans it of dust and impurities, and then supplies it to the room. The musty damp air of the apartment is forced out through the ventilation.

To install the breather, select a place on the wall - for example, near a window, near a radiator, under the ceiling. The selected area is drilled with a diamond tool. The hole is insulated, covered from the outside with a grille, and additionally protected with sound insulation. The connected device fits tightly against the wall, preventing drafts. You can control it through an application on your smartphone.

Convection screens

Modern interiors do not welcome open radiators. However, they are needed to heat the glass so that it does not sweat. The solution is to install convection screens. They are placed on window sills. Such screens are equipped with plates located at an angle of 30-60 degrees to direct the air flow directly onto the glass. This allows you to avoid not only ice, even in severe frosts, but also fogging.

Insulation and finishing

To prevent the glass from getting wet, you need not only to choose the right profiles and double-glazed windows, but also to thoughtfully approach the slopes. Dampness cannot be avoided if you use plaster or neglect insulation. The optimal way to finish slopes is plasterboard with insulation and waterproofing. But it is better to finish them with plastic or sandwich panels. They will eliminate freezing and drafts. With them, the walls will be warmer, which means there is less risk of condensation or ice.

To retain heat, increase the dew point, and move it outward, the external walls of the house can be insulated. Mineral or stone wool, polystyrene foam, and any other materials are suitable. For efficiency, they are supplemented with vapor barrier and wind protection. A ventilation gap is maintained between the facade finishing and the insulation so that all moisture escaping through the walls evaporates without hindrance. As a result, the walls will be warm, heat losses will be reduced, and therefore the likelihood of dew forming on the glass will be reduced.

Factors of penetrating dampness

Damp in the ceiling of the upper floor of a home can be caused by broken or loose roof tiles or damaged upper course of masonry walls.
Dampness on the ceiling, coming in streaks from the wall above the fireplace (from the protruding part of the fireplace), usually occurs due to a violation of the waterproofing at the junction of the brickwork elements or the appearance of cracks in it at the seams.
When damp patches are on the walls below the ceiling of the upper floor, look for dirt clogged or broken gutters or pipes, and also look for a layer of fallen leaves on the roof.
When the dampness has spread throughout the entire wall, check whether the bricks in the masonry are cracked or whether their surface is too porous.
Individual spots of dampness on the wall arise due to damage to the jointing, as well as the formation of cracks in the plaster (large spots of dampness) or due to damage to the cement screed covering the anchor ties in the hollow wall (small spots).
Rotting woodwork and damp spots around window and door blocks are the result of the formation of gaps between the brickwork of the openings and the trim bars and the absence of drain slats on the windows and doors. Perhaps the drip tray (a groove or protrusion on the lower surface of window sills, window frames, etc. for water drainage) is clogged with old paint or overgrown with moss.

Spalling of the mortar and damage to drains (roofing elements) can cause dampness to penetrate.

Gutters that are clogged with dirt or broken allow water to seep through the masonry.

The flow of water through cracks and holes in a damaged roof and saturation of load-bearing wooden structures with moisture is fraught with dampness and rotting of the wood.

Answers to the most popular questions

Why do the windows fog up even though it’s warm outside?

The appearance of condensation is affected not so much by the weather outside, but by the difference in temperatures outside and in the room. To prevent a window from “crying”, it needs maximum thermal insulation. Then temperature changes will not lead to the appearance of drops. Another possible reason is excess humidity in the room.

Why does fogging occur in winter and autumn?

Due to the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors due to insufficient thermal insulation of glass. If the insulation is poor, the surface of the glass cools, at the same time cooling the air, as a result of which moisture falls out of it, which it is no longer able to retain.

Why does water condense on glass in the morning?

Because at night, as a rule, the heating works more intensely, the radiators heat up more. At the same time, the lowest temperature outside is at dawn. As a result, before sunrise, the temperature difference between the street and the apartment is maximum, which leads to heavy condensation on the plastic windows.

The house and windows are insulated, but the glass still sweats. Why?

Perhaps the insulation was excessive. As a result, excess moisture simply cannot escape from the house. Its level rises, and the excess settles on the glass. Good ventilation solves the problem. Another reason is errors in insulation, especially at the junction of the wall and frame. The third option is that there may be too many plants on the windowsill with damp soil or water in the tray.

Which windows don't fog up?

Only those that are installed correctly and regularly ventilated. They should be located away from the outside of the wall. The seams should be well sealed and the ventilation valves should work properly. For middle and northern latitudes, two-chamber double-glazed windows and three-chamber profiles with a thickness of 60 mm or more are required.

Why does ice appear?

Because there is a bridge of cold. It could be a crack, a depressurized glass unit, or a gap between the frame and the sash. Another reason is that the single-chamber glass unit is too thin and there is not enough chambers in the profile, which is why the frame can become frosty in extreme cold.

How to wipe foggy windows?

Be careful, especially if the condensation has taken the form of frost or ice. A non-woven fabric that absorbs liquid well is suitable for wiping. This cloth will not scratch the plastic of the frame or glass and will gently remove ice crumbs.

Is fogging considered a defect according to GOST?

GOSTs and SNiPs consider situations when double-glazed windows fog up from the inside to be a definite failure. If condensation settles on the outside of the glass, the rules do not classify this case as a design defect.

Where to contact

If all possible options for eliminating dampness do not help, then you need to write and submit a statement to the management company. In 2022, it will be drawn up in writing and in two copies. The paper should contain detailed information about when the corners or walls began to get wet, and an exact indication of the location.

ATTENTION! After submitting your application, it is important to ensure that it is recorded. The applicant must keep one copy with a mark.

The next action of the management company should be to send a technician to inspect the residential premises, based on the results of which a report on the presence of dampness and the reasons for its occurrence will be drawn up. The apartment owner must request a copy of this document.

As soon as the act is drawn up, the management company must decide on the option for repair work, as well as the time frame by which it will be completed. It is advisable for the apartment owner to take a copy of each document. If the repairs are not carried out or the period is significantly delayed, then these copies can be contacted with the relevant authorities.

Sample application to the Criminal Code

Sample complaint to the Housing Inspectorate

Then you can file a complaint with the housing inspectorate. It can also be submitted collectively, where all participants sign and the date is indicated. Such a complaint is considered within 30 working days. However, practice shows that it is considered in a shorter period of time. Most often this happens within 14 days.

Sample application to the Prosecutor's Office

The next authority you can subsequently contact is the prosecutor's office. A complaint to this body must be made in free form. As a rule, it is filled out in an official business style.

Obscene language and the use of jargon are unacceptable. And also you shouldn’t rate the problem. You need to restrain your emotionality. The government agency has the right to leave such applications without consideration.

Another important point is that errors, whether punctuation or spelling, should not in any way affect the acceptance of the complaint. At the end there is a signature and date.

Sample application to the Court

The last authority to which you can turn is the court. It should finally resolve your problem. But most often it all ends in the previous organs.