Punching an opening in a brick wall: technology for dismantling work

If, during the redevelopment of a living space, it becomes necessary to cut and make an opening in a brick wall, it is important to carefully study all the nuances of the work, carry out calculations and proceed directly to making a passage or window. Installing an ordinary partition is not difficult, so after studying the instructions in detail, you can build everything yourself, without outside help.

Prices: Diamond cutting (diamond blade)

This decision must be supported by permission from the architectural service, especially if it concerns load-bearing walls. Otherwise, unqualified intervention can cause the destruction of not only a separate wall, but the entire building. This may entail not only administrative, but also legal liability.

It is important to know that when designing some residential buildings, the safety factor of building structures is reduced to reduce costs. Therefore, in such houses it is impossible to remodel load-bearing walls.

Perhaps neighbors have already made changes to the building structures, and their strength has decreased. Then redevelopment is also impossible.

Windows are the calling card of a residential building

There are no residential buildings without windows. They are needed for natural lighting and ventilation. From the outside, windows act as an element of architecture and their shape can tell about the style and time of its creation. In the interior, there are many ways to turn them into decor.

A skewed or loosely fitting frame causes drafts and dampness in the house. The resulting condensation creates conditions for the appearance of black spots of mold and mildew. It is necessary that the frame fits tightly to the wall, without distortions or cracks. Dew formed from temperature changes was removed without getting on the walls. The rain did not get inside the window.

What is needed to make an opening in a brick wall?

Before starting work, you need to find out whether there are any communications - pipes, wires - running through the future opening. Discovered communications are moved to another location. The plaster and other covering down to the bricks are completely removed from the wall.

It is important to find out whether the wall being rebuilt is load-bearing. Construction drawings are used for this.

The size of the opening is regulated by building regulations. In a load-bearing wall, the maximum permissible opening width is 200 cm. The load will be distributed evenly if the opening is placed closer to the center of the wall.

It is very important, when starting work, to make the correct markings for the future opening. If mistakes are made, they will be difficult to correct in the future. Markings are applied in accordance with the design on the surface of the wall on one side using a ruler, square and pencil. To transfer the marks to the other side of the wall, drill through holes in the corners of the perimeter and connect them with a pencil, outlining the perimeter of the future opening. To prevent the brickwork from collapsing, supports are installed. Along the perimeter of the future opening, rectangular holes of 75 * 100 mm are punched, the size of wooden pins, which are cut from beams. The studs are inserted into the prepared holes and supported by vertical supports made of iron beams. This creates a contour that secures the wall. Now, when punching an opening, the wall will not be damaged.

Installation of the pigtail

The last stage of preparing the opening for installing a wooden or plastic window is installing the casing. The window frame is a wooden frame that plays the role of a kind of guide: it is connected to the wall not with fasteners, but with the help of a protrusion and a groove. The sliding connection allows the logs to gradually descend without causing damage to the window unit.

There are several options for installing the casing:

1. Using a sliding bar. A groove 5 cm deep and wide is made in the end part of the log wall, a groove of the same size is made in the side of the box. A block wrapped in insulation is inserted into the grooves: with its help, the lowering process will take place without problems.
2. A tenon is cut out in the end part of the wall, and a groove is cut out in the frame board. The tenon is wrapped in insulation, and the board is connected to it using a groove.
3. The reverse option: a spike is made at the end of the wall, and the casing board is given a T-shape. The connection should also be laid with insulation.

To make the sack, dried coniferous lumber is used; it must be treated with an antiseptic. First, the side parts of the casing are installed, then the window sill, and after that the top part by bracing the side parts.

Important! When installing a plastic structure, fasteners should remain only in the casing elements; they should not get into the wall of the house. Otherwise, the window will be tightly fixed, and the casing will become useless. Polyurethane foam cannot be used as insulation: it will firmly glue the casing box to the wall, and this will also interfere with normal shrinkage.

The window is installed in any wooden buildings: this applies to country houses, capital construction, and baths. Even if you purchased an object that has already stood for two years, it still needs to install casing boxes: wood is a living material, constantly changing its size with changes in temperature and humidity. If the casing is not installed, the walls will constantly put pressure on the windows, and this will lead to various breakdowns and deformations.

Preparing openings in the house yourself is not as difficult as it might seem. This work requires a responsible and careful approach and accurate measurements. Then there will be no serious problems with the installation of window systems and their subsequent operation.

Tatiana Polyakova

Author of publications on 1Drevo.ru with the topics: Wooden Euro-windows | Sealing cracks in a log house | Calculation of house construction | Choosing a roof | Two-story houses | Houses made of cylinders | Heating Plan | Electric heating | Frame verandas | House made of timber 7 by 9 | House lining with bricks | Decorating the house outside | Facade insulation and others.

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Punching an opening in a non-load-bearing brick wall

To prevent collapse, the excavation of bricks begins from the top row. The bricks are carefully knocked out using a hammer and chisel or using a diamond cutter. The hole must be reinforced with a jumper, which will evenly distribute the load on the opening. For the lintel, two channels are used, which should be 30 cm longer than the opening on each side. First, holes are drilled in the channels every 30 cm. To install reinforcing elements, grooves are made on both sides of the wall, channels are inserted into them, they are connected to each other with metal pins threaded through the prepared holes, and secured with washers.

Next, the bricks are removed in the usual way. If the wall is thick, the bricks are removed gradually from both sides.

Components of a plastic window

The main element of a window unit is the frame.
The design of a plastic window includes the following parts:

• frame – the main structural part;
• if you have a large window, most often it is divided by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
• the part that is motionless is called blind, and the part that opens is called the sash;
• double-glazed windows can have different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
• In order for the glass to hold securely, they are pressed with a bead, which is a thin plastic strip. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
• fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
• in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
• Ventilated holes for drainage are made on the inside of the frame, which are covered with caps. Moisture formed when the temperature changes outside and inside the room passes through them to the outside;
• another part of the structure is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
• parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

How to make an opening in load-bearing walls

If a load-bearing wall is undergoing reconstruction, it must be strengthened above the opening. To do this, use metal corners or a channel. They withstand loads well without being subject to deformation. Corners are preferable, as they fit tightly to the wall and the edges of the opening. The technology for installing the reinforcing structure is as follows. Along the perimeter of the opening, grooves are made into which corners or channels are inserted in pairs on one side and the other. Through the through holes made, the corners are tightened together with bolts. Next, they begin to excavate bricks for the future opening, using a diamond tool, or carefully using a chisel and hammer.

When the opening is broken through, its side planes and lower part should be strengthened. To do this, cut two pairs of channels of the required length for the side supports and one pair for the bottom, and make holes in them. Grooves are cut out on the wall into which channels are inserted and fastened with construction pins, threading them through through holes drilled in the wall. The side channels are welded to the upper and lower channels. Additionally, the metal structure is reinforced with vertical metal bridges. For lintels, strips of metal are used, cut into sections equal to the thickness of the wall. Using welding, they are connected to vertical channels with an indentation of 30 cm. The lintels are placed along the entire perimeter of the opening.

The final stage of work will be plastering the broken opening and installing a window or door in it.

Overlapping finished window openings

The window implies the presence of a jumper. That is, it is impossible to lay out the top rows of brickwork without a crossbar. The choice of structural rigidity is determined by the load on the structure and the type of building material of the building.

The following materials are used for jumpers:

• Factory-produced concrete structures.

Factory installation

• Monolithic specimens made at home.
• Metal corners or channel.
• Wooden crossbars are suitable for wooden construction.

The window tab includes a number of rules consisting of technical recommendations:

• The minimum outlet on the sides is at least 10 cm. More often, when constructing a window opening, an outlet of 15-20 cm is used. Conclusion: with a window width of 1 meter 30 centimeters, the run is equal to 1 meter 50 centimeters. These are the minimum indicators. The amount of release depends on the material of the wall and the load exerted on the lintel.

Crossbar release

• For installing a metal corner, sizes of 12-14 cm are suitable if ceramic bricks are laid on the run. Laying solid brick requires installing a corner with dimensions of 24-27 cm. Cinder block construction - 18-20 cm.

The use of building material for masonry of large dimensions in relation to the crossbar requires trimming the brick. This way you can avoid protrusions of the purlin above the opening.

Laying of corners is carried out in cases where there is a connecting masonry of walls and window openings. The size of the run should not be much larger than the size of the window.

"Jumper" works

Rules for laying walls made of ceramic bricks:

• The corner is laid so that it does not interfere with the laying of ceramic bricks. It fit snugly to the base of the bed, without creating gaps between the brick and the corner.
• The metal corner is made of dense material, so the overlap on both sides is minimal. 10-15 cm on each side is enough.
• A solid brick structure should not exceed one and a half meters. When laying a metal corner that exceeds these dimensions, there may be a risk of the structure sagging under the influence of the weight of the brickwork.
• If bricklaying is carried out in two rows, the risk of deflection doubles. A double design of two parallel angles is recommended. Stiffening ribs are welded across to strengthen the jumper.

Installation of corners

Concrete types

The difference between concrete structures is their high strength and performance qualities. Used as jumpers. They withstand high loads above the elements located above them, ensuring the reliability of the masonry of separately located elements.

Concrete floors come in industrial production and “handicraft production”. Each type is used in different situations:

Installation of a concrete crossbar made in production is not difficult.

• The lintel can weigh a lot, and installation often requires the use of construction equipment. At the top there are two metal ears.
• Having hooked the sling hooks to the elements, lifting is carried out with a crane or hand winch.
• Prepare the solution and place it in place.
• The preparation is complete, you can install the concrete crossbar.

Sometimes, window openings are not standard sizes. It is recommended that you make your own jumpers.

• Take measurements and assemble the wooden formwork.

Monolithic design

• The height of the lintel should not exceed the height of the brick - place marks for pouring concrete.
• Lay a layer of waterproofing - this can be polyethylene film.
• To strengthen the structure, provide reinforcement inside the formwork.
• Concrete is poured using buckets. One person is at the top, the second is at the bottom, supplying the concrete solution.
• Follow the marks placed with a marker inside the formwork.

Do not overflow concrete above the marks. This will increase the height of the crossbar, which will affect the thickness of the row seam.

• When pouring, pierce the concrete with a trowel or shovel. This will ensure the mixture shrinks and gets rid of air bubbles.
• When finished, smooth the surface and allow the concrete to set.

How to break through an opening

In order to cope with any work efficiently and quickly, you need to be well prepared.

Preparatory work

Punching an opening is quite a dusty job, so you should take care of special equipment in advance. clothes:

To collect garbage you will need strong bags. During punching, the surface can be moistened with water - this will reduce the amount of dust. If floor repairs are not planned in the room where the wall will be broken through, it is better to immediately cover it with boards to avoid damage.

1. roulette;
2. Bulgarian;
3. diamond discs;
4. perforator;
5. various attachments for the hammer drill;
6. chisel;
7. sledgehammer.

Attention: you must work with a sledgehammer carefully. Because the goal of the work is a neat opening, and not a dilapidated wall.

Video: How to make an opening in a load-bearing wall. The entire step-by-step process of creating an opening.

Mistakes you can make when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:

• you cannot install the window with the glazing beads facing outward, as this reduces the structure’s burglary resistance, since the glazing bead can easily be pulled out and the glass unit removed;
• you need to be careful about leveling the structures when installing the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
• It is imperative to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight to avoid its destruction;
• It would be wrong to choose to fix the frame structure only with mounting foam: it is absolutely necessary to attach it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

By following all the installation rules, you can successfully install the window structure yourself, and if you seek the services of professionals, you will be able to monitor their work at any stage.

Breaking through a brick wall

First, the brick wall is cleaned of wallpaper and plaster. Then, using a tape measure and a pencil, markings are made. After this, a reinforcing jumper is installed on top. This is necessary to ensure that the wall does not burst or collapse. The jumper is made from a corner measuring at least 35 mm. Two blanks are cut 30 - 40 cm longer than the opening.

Using a grinder with a diamond blade, the top is cut on both sides of the wall. They cut 15 - 20 cm more than the width of the future doorway, cutting depth = the size of the corner (shelf). After this, the corners are inserted into the cut made, securing them with anchor pins and filling the cracks with cement mortar.

Now you can begin dismantling the brick wall. You can quickly and efficiently remove an unwanted area using a diamond saw. However, not everyone can afford such pleasure. Therefore, a grinder, a hammer drill or a sledgehammer with a chisel is most often used.

Using a grinder, a cut is made along the marked lines of the doorway as far as the diameter of the diamond blade allows. Then, using a hammer drill or a sledgehammer with a chisel, the brick is gradually removed. After removing all unnecessary bricks, you need to finish the lintel. To do this, both corners need to be welded together from the bottom.

If for some reason welding is not possible, they can be fastened with metal plates. The plates and corner are drilled and secured together with powerful metal screws. Everything is almost ready, all that remains is to refine it and you can install the door.

And yet to the wheelhouse

Although it is easier to plan such things in advance.

The process itself, while seemingly simple, is not so simple. The thing is that many buildings have stood for many years, the components from which the building was built are in working position and have stood. And any rough intervention can lead not only to the removal of material, but also to the collapse of the wall.

Therefore, we will do everything extremely carefully. To begin with, let's collect materials, tools and accessories.

• All the levels that exist: simple construction and water (water is mandatory for old-built houses, where, due to shrinkage processes, the level of the masonry can be far from horizontal), ideally a laser level, a plumb line;
• The entire mason's set (trowel, spatula, mixing attachment for preparing working mixtures);

Items needed in this process

• Measuring instruments (tape measure, large square, folding meter);
• Hammer, chisels of several types, scraping if available;
• A hammer drill and an angle grinder with a stone circle (the angle grinder should be a professional one with a large circle), drills for through-hole drilling of a wall with Pobedit or diamond tips;
• Supports for fastening studs, as well as the studs themselves and boards at least 50 mm thick for single-level alignment of supports.

For your information! The so affectionately named stilettos are very far from how we imagine them in everyday life. In fact, these are quite powerful beams, the main purpose of which is to create a supporting structure for the wall in order to prevent destruction at the time of work to remove material under the window.

The preparation process is important

Cleaning the wall and marking water is the main thing at the preparatory stage.

There are several important steps in this process:

• Stage one: complete cleaning of the brick wall section from wallpaper, plaster and other types of coating;
• The second stage is marking the space for the window, window covering, as well as places for the studs to pass out.
• Using a hammer and chisel, it is necessary to completely clean the brick wall from layers of plaster in the area of ​​the proposed window, allowing for at least an additional 15 cm around the perimeter of the proposed window, for convenience. You will also need to clear the space for the floor beam and the already mentioned studs.

Note! At the stage of cleaning the wall, you will need to think about the size of the window in a brick house. Usually, the sizes of windows in brick houses in the private sector are ordered according to a template, all are the same, so in this case there will be no problems. The sizes of windows in a brick Khrushchev house can be of several types, but given that the walls there are load-bearing, obtaining permission to install another window is quite difficult and almost impossible. Therefore, the question: the size of windows in a brick Khrushchev building can only be considered in the context of replacing wooden windows with plastic ones.

A household grinder is useless here.

• At the second stage of preparatory work, the places directly under the window, under the floor beam and under the studs are marked. Here, the electrical wiring is inspected and moved if necessary, and the possibility and necessity of connecting heating radiators is assessed. Also, special attention is paid to the condition of the brickwork, and if it has a beveled appearance, this may indicate that in this place the building has maximum shrinkage and it may not be advisable to create a void for a window here.

Advice! When applying markings to the wall, keep in mind that if you are opening a sandwich system, you need to consider further insulation, or at least sealing the joint. That is, it is necessary to calculate the increase in the window opening precisely by the width of the insulation. And when planning a place for a lintel, you must remember that the structure itself must extend at least 15 -20 cm from the opening into the material.

How to make a doorway in a concrete wall

Most often, concrete walls are load-bearing. And if this is the case, then it is better to entrust this work to specialists who can correctly calculate the design features of the reinforcing frame and strapping. First, just like in the first case, markings are made.

After which this marking must be transferred to the other side. This can be done by drilling holes in the corners and along the lines of the future opening with a hammer drill. Then, using a drill with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm, we make holes around the entire perimeter, every 3 - 4 cm.

Concrete walls are much stronger than brick walls, so without a diamond saw the work will be long and hard. After the passage has been made, it is necessary to make a strapping from a metal channel or corners welded together.

In conclusion, I would like to remind you once again that any changes to the design features of an apartment, especially for apartment buildings, can be made only with permission obtained from government authorities.

Watch the video: How to cut concrete without dust yourself (redevelopment)

Cost of work in the Russian Federation

Separately, window openings when creating walls are not calculated when assessing the work of builders. This structure is considered part of the wall. The same applies to building up a window block. Laying an aerated block wall from professionals costs from 1,200 rubles/m3.

If you need to make a window wider, or a new one in the finished wall, you can order cutting services separately (for example, with a diamond blade) . If equipment is available, builders can do this. Price – from 800 RUR/m2.

The cost of work to strengthen window openings made of aerated concrete depends on the method of strengthening. Price from 2500 rub. for 1 piece (edging with a metal corner), more serious interventions - about 17,000 rubles. per piece

Cutting new windows and doors

Let's say you need to cut a couple of new openings . Let one of them be a new window in the side wall of the back room, which previously served as a utility room or storage room and which until now had no windows. Let the second opening be the new door to the large cupboard that you have under the stairs.

The opening for the window must be cut in a good-quality brick wall 22 cm thick. The overall size of the new opening in the brickwork on the outside of the house should be noted, checking the drawings to find out the exact position of the opening and its dimensions. To cut one brick from a masonry, you need to knock it out from the center of the marked area using a chisel and hammer. Fortunately, the brickwork is laid with lime mortar, so this won't be too difficult. But in reality this means that you can easily break the fastening of other bricks, so you need to work carefully (Fig. 1).

Fig.1

You need to use a construction support on top to support the top of the doorway being cut from the inside so that it does not collapse. The first task of the builders will be to cut a row of bricks horizontally and thus form the top line of the future opening. This 'gap' extends from one side of the new window to the other and is approximately 22cm deep. Then another row of bricks is cut directly below it, but only the width of the window. The reason why only two rows of bricks are cut first is that before cutting the rest of the opening, the builders want to first lay new window lintels and support the brickwork over the gap (Fig. 2)

Fig.2

On the outside, the brickwork above the gap tends to immediately settle, falling into the freshly cut opening, before the builders have time to lay down the cement mortar, so the builders use a hidden piece of mortar. A galvanized steel square is laid, covering the entire width of the opening being cut. The width of this steel piece should be twice as narrow as the thickness of the brickwork, and it should be laid so that its lower edge can support a row of bricks on the outside of the house. Then this part of the wall is well strengthened with the help of alternating spoons (spacers) and butts (butt bricks, lintel beams), which are laid on this steel part flush with the existing masonry dressing (Fig. 3).

Fig.3

On the inside, cement-lime mortar is laid out along the top of the opening. The width of this layer of lime mortar is also equal to half the thickness of the wall. The cut gap is tightly supported with the help of a construction support, while its ends are strengthened with the help of roofing tiles (usually made of natural slate), so that now it completely takes on the weight of the section of the wall located above the cut opening. After this, the construction support can be removed (Fig. 4).

Fig.4

Once the top of the new opening is fully reinforced and fully supported, the rest of the opening can be cut out. On the outside of the wall, builders use a sanding wheel to cut a straight line into the brickwork around the perimeter of the new opening. The central section of bricks is then knocked out of place. The line cut by the disk means that the edge of this opening is a straight cut, and the window frame will fit into it without problems, and all that remains to be done is to apply sealant so as not to leave any gaps. Now you can imagine the difficulty of knocking out the central section from an opening in a thick brick wall. Just a little time, and you can already see that as soon as the window frame falls into the opening, nothing else needs to be done (Fig. 5).

Fig.5

As for making an opening for the door , which needs to be cut for the china cabinet located under the stairs. Previously, you accessed this area from a back room at the back of the house. However, after the reconstruction carried out in the house, access here is now required, on the contrary, from the front part of the house. The position of the new opening is marked on the wall and a cavity is cut out from above. Use a mortar block and bracket to support the center of the opening while a gap is cut along the top line, and then mortar is applied to that top edge. This wall is only half a brick thick and is mortared on both sides so that the cement mortar can simply be laid on top. Lime mortar is applied and firmly supported, while on each side of the wall the edges of the opening with overlap are reinforced with natural slate roofing tiles. Then the construction support is removed and, as was done with the window, the rest of the opening is knocked out of its place in the same way.

Added: 01/20/2015 11:37:41

Features and Requirements

GOST 11214-86 regulates the parameters of window openings in private houses. According to him:

• the opening width can vary from 87 cm to 2.67 m;
• height from 1.16 cm to 2.06 m.

These parameters are set when creating a house project and depend on the architectural design, indoor lighting requirements and building design. The window format selected for a specific room depends on its parameters and proportions .

According to SNiP 23-05-95, window openings must be at least ⅛ of the living room. For the bathroom, utility rooms and other non-residential parts of the building - no more than 3% of the room area.

The structural element must provide for the installation of not only a window block with glass, but also a window sill, slopes, seals and drains.

The window opening must meet the following requirements:

1. 
   smooth geometric parameters that correspond to the parameters of window frames;

2. ensuring the reliability of fastenings of all structural elements;
3. the ability to provide complete sealing and waterproofing;
4. no penetration of cold air and noise from the street;
5. neat appearance.

Experienced builders recommend choosing standard windows and creating openings for them. Non-standard options are discussed in advance with planners; an individual frame order will be required, which significantly increases costs.

Aerated concrete is one of the few materials in which it is possible to create an opening of an unusual shape. The peculiarity of the material is its fragility when bending. In the window opening, the pressure on the blocks is distributed unevenly; the lower ones take on part of the weight of the wall and remain under light pressure from the window structure.

The upper part takes pressure from the floors and masonry blocks above it, but remains without support. As a result, cracks appear in these places. You can avoid destruction of gas blocks by using reinforcement at the bottom of the opening and using jumpers at the top.

Masonry methods

The device should begin with determining the type of masonry, which can be:

• Lozhkova . The brick is laid with the spoon facing outwards.

• Cross . In the chain and cross cases, alternating masonry is used: one row is laid with a spoon facing outwards, the other - with a butt joint.

• Kolodtseva.

In this case, the masonry is carried out in two rows, forming a well-type structure. Its space is filled with gravel, slag or construction waste.

Types of walls

There are two main types, the features of which are presented in the table:

Design features

Before making an opening, you need to find out more about it.

• Is there hidden wiring inside the structure?

• Availability of pipes and fittings.

• Is there a chimney, and in what specific location is it located?

Such information cannot be obtained through a regular inspection; a metal detector must be used.

Tip: The detection of any obstacles does not mean that a passage cannot be made in the wall. In this case, it is necessary to properly prepare for the work.

To fix problems when doing it yourself, you need to:

• Move electrical wiring to another location.
• Step back from the chimney at least three meters.
• To move the pipes, you need to invite a specialist.

Why do you need a house surround?

Wooden buildings shrink, which is influenced by various factors - from the type of wood and the thickness of the log to the climate in a particular region. In the first year it can reach 6-10% depending on the initial moisture content of the material. The edging of wooden window and door openings helps to minimize the consequences of the natural process. If executed correctly, it will solve the following problems:

• will ensure the stability and geometry of the log house without the risk of the logs moving in the horizontal direction,
• will prevent deformation of window and door blocks,
• will increase the efficiency of thermal and waterproofing.

Wintering helps to reduce the shrinkage rate, that is, “standing” the constructed box under its own weight for a certain time so that the logs take the desired position.

Preparation for work

First of all, it is necessary to calculate the doorway in the load-bearing wall, taking into account the following points:

• Its dimensions are selected in accordance with SNIP or building codes.

In this case, in the load-bearing wall:

1. the height should be no more than 2.1 meters;
2. width within 0.7 - 2 meters. For an apartment located on the ground floor, the opening width cannot exceed 0.9 meters.

• The optimal placement is the center of the wall.
• The top of the hole should coincide with the cement joint of the masonry.
• The opening must be arranged so that between the wall and the door frame there is a gap of 25 millimeters on the sides and 6 millimeters on top.

Tip: An opening whose width is no more than 90 centimeters does not require additional reinforcement. With a larger width, the wall must be strengthened.

Tools and materials for work

Before moving the passage, regardless of its purpose, you need to purchase the tools shown in the photo:

To work you will need tools:

• Grinder or hammer drill.
• Bench chisel and hammer.
• Triangle.
• Building level.
• High quality tape measure.

• Wooden bars.
• Reinforced concrete beams.
• Steel corners or channels.
• Cement mortar.

Punch in the partition

Before making a doorway in a concrete wall or brickwork, you need to carefully consider the existing documentation for the house. It usually indicates all communications and the installation of the power supply system. At the location where the opening is planned, holes are drilled.

Punching passages is accompanied by a large amount of dust.

This requires special protective clothing:

Tip: To settle the resulting dust, the wall should be sprayed with water from a spray bottle.

Any opening is made in the shape of the letter “T”. A crossbar is mounted in the upper part, which will hold the brickwork. When manufacturing, the crossbar can be used from an ordinary wooden board. The load-bearing wall requires the installation of a reinforced concrete beam.

The partition is usually made of small thickness, which makes it easier to punch holes in it.

The work instructions suggest:

• Using a square and a ruler, make the appropriate markings, taking into account that the opening should have a larger width than the door being installed.
• The wall section is cleared of all types of finishing materials, including brickwork.

• Along the lines drawn during marking, cuts are made with a grinder with a disk with a diameter of more than 200 millimeters, on which there is a diamond coating. Such cuts will become the edging for the future opening.
• Holes are drilled along the seams for laying bricks.
• Using a chisel and a hammer, several bricks are knocked out.

Tip: The first brick should be knocked out with a hammer drill with a core cutter. It can be replaced with a large diameter drill.

• A hole is punched for installing the crossbar.
• A wooden board is inserted.

• Cement mortar is poured. This stage of making the opening cannot be ignored, otherwise cracks may appear in the wall.

Tools and Supplies

Under construction

• Mallet.
• Spatula or trowel.
• Hacksaw.
• Planer for gas blocks.
• Container for solution.
• Construction mixer.
• Corner.
• Mooring beacons and thread.
• Hand tool for creating grooves.

Consumables:

• adhesive-based solution;
• fittings;
• concrete.

Lintels are of primary importance in creating a window opening. Options that can be used :

1. 
   Ready-made factory solutions .
   The use of jumpers created specifically for gas blocks at the factory significantly speeds up the construction process. They are suitable for window openings up to 2.5 m wide. Physically, they are an aerated concrete block (D500-D700 strength) with a reinforcement frame mounted inside.

   They do not create cold bridges and are lightweight. The result is a homogeneous structure with the wall, convenient for finishing. You need to buy ready-made blocks that correspond in size to the gas blocks that make up the wall, so that there are no gaps during installation. For load-bearing walls, the elements can be heavy, up to 200 kg, which requires equipment to lift.

2. U-blocks . Aerated concrete blocks in the shape of the letter U, inside of which a reinforced frame and insulation are placed. Suitable for openings up to 3 m in length.
3. Monolithic concrete lintels . An inexpensive but labor-intensive option that will take time to create. The block turns out to be very durable and can withstand heavy loads. The sizes can be any.
4. Metal corners (width at least 50 mm) . The most budget option, suitable for a window width of no more than 1.2 m, the size of the masonry above the lintel should be ⅔ of this width.

If the width of the window opening is less than 1.2 m, it does not need to be reinforced with supports.

After construction

• Hammer.
• Saw on wood.
• Sandpaper or plane.
• Tool for creating grooves.

According to builders, using a hand saw for work is problematic; creating one part of an opening out of 4 can take a whole day and the cut will turn out uneven. It is advisable to use an electric saw, but it quickly breaks down .

In order not to ruin expensive equipment, it is recommended to buy a separate saw for these purposes from Chinese manufacturers at a budget price.