Preparing the balcony for glazing - restoring the slab, strengthening the structure, choosing a parapet for the balcony and loggia

When glazing a balcony, people often encounter a weak parapet and a damaged slab. The balcony parapet is closely related to the age of the building itself, so in most cases problems associated with it arise in old Soviet buildings. Strengthening the parapet is a task that should be solved even before glazing begins, since its dilapidation can negatively affect the strength of the entire structure. Another factor in strengthening non-residential premises is checking and maximizing the strengthening of the load-bearing slab. A well-reinforced slab ensures maximum stability of the balcony, minimizing the possibility of its collapse from all sorts of loads associated with the installation of aluminum or plastic windows, insulation, etc.

Balcony parapet cladding

After creating the fence structure, the next step is preparing it for cladding. To do this, a wooden sheathing is made on top of the metal frames and foam block masonry. If necessary, insulation is attached to it, only then finishing materials. The sheathing bars should be up to 3 cm wide, they are fastened with dowels. Lathing is needed to level the surface before attaching facing materials. Work begins with the side walls. It is advisable to impregnate the bars with antifungal protection.

Dimensions of vertical posts for lining: from 40x40 to 50x50, they are mounted with a certain pitch (up to 50 cm) over the entire surface of the barrier structure and must be installed in the corners. Cross members are made in sizes from 20x40 to 30x50. Insulation or sound insulation is placed in the gaps of the sheathing. If necessary, you can lay an electrical cord in the sheathing.

If you need internal insulation of a balcony parapet with a metal frame, you can do it:

• polystyrene foam;
• penoplex;
• mineral wool;
• foil polyethylene foam (penofol).

Sheets of insulation are attached between the sheathing beams and covered with waterproofing material on top. The seams are sealed with metal film. The insulation of the loggia parapet is done in the process of warm glazing of the balcony. Only after this are the frames and window sill installed and the slopes attached.

Finishing the parapet inside the balcony

The main stages of interior finishing of a block parapet:

• installation of moisture protection;
• installation of sheathing; fastening of finishing materials.

First, a vapor-tight waterproofing material is laid. For this, it is better to use rolled penofol. It is attached to the plastered masonry with self-tapping screws. Then a wooden beam is attached horizontally at the bottom and top of the fence along the entire perimeter, and vertical wooden sheathing strips are placed on it in increments of 40 to 60 cm.

The insulation is cut to the width of the step and inserted between the vertical beams along the entire perimeter. The seams are sealed with polyurethane foam. The top of the insulation is covered with plywood, gypsum board or PVC panels. The finishing material is laid end-to-end and secured with self-tapping screws to the sheathing beams.

This design of the inner side of the under-rail space gives the balcony a finished look and serves as additional heat protection. It is better not to use heavy building materials for these purposes. Euro-lining is considered the most decorative and environmentally friendly finish.

Parapet sheathing from the street side. The most effective way

If the parapet is made of brick or gas blocks, there are no problems with the cladding: the cladding is immediately attached to the masonry using long screws or dowels.

Metal structures require preliminary lathing. To do this, the support strip is attached to the railing for subsequent glazing. Sheathing posts are attached to it in 60 cm increments. To install siding, first fix the guides and the starting strip: for a horizontal assembly of panels - the bottom one, for a vertical assembly - the side one.

Then the first 3 profiles are installed and secured with self-tapping screws. Work continues along the entire perimeter. If the parapet requires insulation, the sheets are laid between the metal structure and the finishing on the outside. Then all voids are foamed from the inside.

Another layer of insulation is laid on the inside. It is attached to the sheets already installed on the outside with special mushrooms. Vapor barrier is not done in case of double insulation.

Balcony thermal insulation diagram

Proper insulation of a balcony in an apartment begins with its glazing. To minimize heat exchange between the external environment and the room, sealed, metal-plastic windows with double-glazed windows should be installed

Moreover, if the thermometer in your region usually drops below -30 °C during the coldest five-day period of the year, then experts strongly recommend paying attention to windows with three-chamber double-glazed windows

Glazing is one of the most expensive (in every sense of the word) enterprises, which cannot be avoided. Even if you use a high-quality sealant to seal cracks in old wooden frames, this will not change the situation. The heat (as well as your money for heating) will disappear with the first gusts of the autumn wind.

Thermal insulation cake

The work flow looks like this:

:

• After installing metal-plastic windows with sealed double-glazed windows, all cracks are foamed. After drying, the foam is cut off.
• Waterproofing surfaces using PVC film, roofing felt, penetrating materials. Strips of insulating material are overlapped and secured at the joint with adhesive tape. Bitumen mastics are applied to surfaces using a paint roller or brush. This is necessary to prevent moisture from entering the thickness of the insulating layer.
• Cut and attach the thermal insulation layer. As a rule, a parapet is a lightweight metal welded structure. Correct installation of insulation on a parapet most often involves the creation and installation of sheathing or an additional supporting frame.
• Laying vapor barrier. For this process, you can use various materials with a low coefficient of vapor permeability: films made of polyethylene or propylene, membranes, foil materials, etc. Vapor barrier on the room side is a necessary stage of thermal insulation measures. It will help prevent the formation of condensation and the accumulation of moisture in the structure of the insulating material.

For reference. The warm air in the room is saturated with water vapor, which, penetrating the heat insulator, accumulates in it. When water vapor comes into contact with a cold surface at the exit from the room, condensation forms, which, like water vapor, accumulates inside. When the moisture content of a material increases by only 5%, its thermal insulation properties decrease by 50%. When dried, the properties are restored, but only partially: the quality of thermal insulation gradually decreases, and heat loss increases.

The last stage in the standard balcony insulation scheme is flooring and finishing work.

Internal insulation

When carrying out work from inside the room, all elements of the balcony or loggia are protected from heat loss, with special attention paid to external enclosing structures and walls adjacent to the street or technical premises. To protect the loggia premises from heat loss, it is necessary to perform the following blocks of work:

To protect the loggia premises from heat loss, it is necessary to perform the following blocks of work:

• if necessary, replace old glazing with new double-glazed windows or wooden structures;
• seal all defects and cracks in external enclosing structures;
• waterproof the walls, parapet, floor and ceiling, as well as the frame external wall for the balcony;
• lay insulation on all walls, floor and ceiling surfaces;
• attach an additional layer of vapor barrier;
• complete the final finishing of the room.

All types of work do not require special professional training, so anyone can insulate their balcony or loggia on their own.

Replacing old fencing

Preliminary dismantling of the old parapet is possible (but not required) in whole or in part. This is done in cases where:

• want to free up additional usable space; The balcony is expanded along the base of the slab
• the old structure has fallen into disrepair and its preservation is inappropriate.

  
  The base is completely rotten

When dismantling the parapet, special attention should be paid to the safety of work at height, as well as to fence off the potentially dangerous area around the house and prevent passers-by from being in it. In some cases, it is advisable to use the services of professional industrial climbers.

Usually they strengthen the existing fence without dismantling it. The choice of method depends on many factors (the general condition of the base, the size of the balcony, the type of old fence, the future use of the balcony).

Strengthening the balcony parapet with foam blocks

Strengthening the parapet on the balcony can be made of foam block, which has the following characteristics:

• high strength;
• thermal insulation;
• soundproofing;
• fire resistance;
• durability;
• environmentally friendly.

This material is lightweight and easy to cut, so you can strengthen the balcony railing with foam blocks yourself. To do this you will need:

• foam blocks 70-100 mm wide;
• adhesive composition for blocks;
• plaster mixture;
• primer;
• waterproofing material;
• iron rods;
• fittings;
• galvanized mesh;
• Bulgarian;
• circular saw or hacksaw;
• perforator;
• propane torch;
• hammer;
• putty knife;
• plumb line;
• level.

The following procedure is performed:

1. Taking measurements of fencing and window openings. The new fence should be 10-15 cm higher than the previous one, this is necessary for installing a drainage system. In a 10-story building its height should be at least 1 m, in a taller building - at least 1.1 m.
2. If the screed is of poor quality, it is removed and then a new one is poured.
3. The adhesive waterproofing material is spread. To do this you will need a propane torch. Sometimes waterproofing is not carried out. Instead, a U-shaped aluminum channel is laid around the perimeter of the balcony. It is fixed with cement mortar and screwed with dowels. The bottom row of foam block is laid out in this profile.
4. The required number of blocks is calculated. If the result is not a whole number of rows, but for example 3.5, then the blocks are cut to the required size and used for the first row, and they are laid with the cut side down.
5. Foam blocks are laid along the edge of the balcony slab parallel to the old parapet. The distance between the old and new fencing should be minimal, then there will be more usable area on the balcony. However, you can make a larger gap and place insulation in the gap. The solution for foam blocks is applied with a spatula. When laying, use a plumb line and level.
6. Reinforcement and iron rods must be driven into the junction of the wall and the foam block masonry so that one end is in the wall and the other is located exactly on the horizontal masonry seam.
7. Foam blocks are laid “in a run” on a special masonry mortar.
8. The masonry is reinforced with galvanized mesh with a wire diameter of 3 mm.
9. During the construction of a parapet on a loggia or balcony, the foam blocks are primed with a primer designed for porous materials. Then they are plastered outside and inside with facade plaster.
10. The previous point can be omitted if the foam block parapet is immediately sheathed and glazed.

Where to start renovating a balcony

If you decide to do the balcony repair yourself, first of all you will need a project that can only be completed by a design organization that has permission for these types of work. Specialists go to the site, assess the condition of the extension, on the basis of which the necessary measures to restore the slab are determined and an estimate is drawn up. It is important to note here that work related to the reconstruction of the balcony is best carried out through an agreement with specialists. Only in this case will you delegate all responsibility to them, even if during the repair process something falls off and falls down, causing damage to property and health.

Of course, hiring professionals to carry out repairs entails significant costs, so many refuse the services and restore the stove themselves. And then we will analyze in detail how to repair a balcony with your own hands, step by step:

• restore the slab;
• strengthen the structure;
• seal the cracks;
• seal joints;
• secure the parapet.

Repairing a balcony in a panel house by strengthening the console with a reinforced concrete beam

How to properly prepare a balcony slab for major repairs

Before making repairs on the balcony, you should clear the area and take out the trash. Then, with an ordinary hammer, with a handle about half a meter, we begin to knock on the concrete, the blows should be of medium strength. Such manipulations will allow you to remove all the weak solution. Listen to the sound of impacts, it should be dull, if there is a hum, it means there is a void inside, in this place we break the concrete in order to subsequently eliminate the defect.

When the entire surface of the slab is cleaned, we examine the cracks using a regular metal ruler. We push it into the joint; if it sticks, then the gap is superficial and does not pose a danger. And if, after increased pressure, it slips deeper, then a break is possible, so you will have to not only repair, but also strengthen the slab.

Advice: To make a major overhaul of all elements of the balcony, it is recommended to come to an agreement with the neighbors above and below, since the structures have common elements, and it is better to repair them together.

Repair of loggias and balconies, photo of how to increase the usable area when restoring the slab

Insulation

It is very pleasant to enjoy comfort both in summer and in winter. But in order for the use of the balcony to be possible at any time of the year, it must be insulated for the winter. Moreover, such measures will limit the access of cold directly into the apartment itself and keep it warm for a longer period.

Stylish work area on the balcony

Insulation can be carried out both from the inside and from the outside, depending on what types of finishing will be used later. If you plan to sheathe the parapet from the outside, then between it and the sheets used, you can insert insulation inside the frame. The same can be done inside. Today there is a wide range of thermal insulation on the market.

Based on their composition, thermal insulation materials can be divided into three types:

organic; inorganic; mixed.

External wall insulation scheme

Foil will help create reflective insulation

Experts recommend the following most popular options for insulating a balcony:

Glass wool is affordable, easy to purchase at any hardware store, and has a service life of up to 15 years. Among the disadvantages, we can note the complexity of installation associated with the special structure of the material. It can cause severe irritation if it comes into contact with exposed areas of the body.

When installing glass wool, it is necessary to use protective equipment

Basalt fiber is a type of mineral wool. For its production, basalt is used as a base, which ensures its environmental safety. But among the main advantages, fire resistance is highlighted. It can also easily withstand a wide range of temperature changes.

Installation of mineral wool

• Polyethylene is a fairly expensive material. It is best to place it under foil, creating reflective thermal insulation.
• Polystyrene foam is the most affordable and one of the most durable materials. Some manufacturers guarantee its service life up to 30 years. However, it has a high fire hazard. Taking into account the functionality of the balcony, this factor is not so significant.

Insulation using foam plastic

The use of foam boards for thermal insulation helps to avoid “cold bridges”

This is not the entire list of thermal insulation options. Your choice may be determined by factors such as price, durability and ease of installation.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=YKO00flP1tA

Which material to choose

The effectiveness of the work done depends on the material that was chosen as insulation. The modern construction market offers a wide selection that can satisfy the most selective. When insulating the facade of a loggia or balcony, choose the following materials:

• penoplex, foam plastic;
• mineral wool;
• isolon;
• penofol.

Each of them has both advantages and disadvantages. Detailed information is given in the table.

Note to the table: the higher the thermal conductivity index, the smaller the thickness should be used during installation.

Expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam

These types of materials are among the leaders in frequency of use. The frequency of using polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene when insulating a balcony is due to their low cost and good thermal conductivity.

Figure 2. Facade glazing of the balcony.

Polystyrene foam is a hardened foam material that retains heat due to the air content inside the pores.

When choosing polystyrene foam for insulation, you need to pay attention to thickness and density. The optimal indicator for the first criterion is 5 cm

The higher the density, the stronger the warm layer.

Advantages:

• high thermal insulation qualities;
• low cost;
• long service life;
• absorbs moisture well;
• low labor intensity during installation;
• if chosen correctly, it has high strength;
• does not release toxins;
• no fungus develops inside the plate.

Has a number of disadvantages:

• ignites easily and burns well;
• does not allow air to pass through;
• transmits sound;
• instability to chemical finishing agents.

Extruded polystyrene foam has similar quality characteristics, but has another advantage. It lies in the fact that this material is more homogeneous. Due to this, low thermal conductivity is achieved. Manufacturers produce several varieties of penoplex, each of which is suitable for a specific type of work. To insulate loggias, it is best to use the “Comfort” series.

Other materials for thermal insulation

The closest competitor to polystyrene foam when insulating a cold balcony is basalt mineral wool. The popularity of this material is determined by its good characteristics:

• does not allow heat to pass through;
• does not absorb moisture;
• breathable material;
• resistant to fire;
• high strength;
• does not allow noise from the street to pass through;
• environmentally friendly material does not emit harmful substances;
• fungus does not multiply inside the mineral wool;
• It is possible to use chemicals for finishing.

Disadvantages include high cost and the need for additional protection during operation.

In order to insulate a loggia or balcony, penofol is often used: it is a foam material with an aluminum layer to reflect heat. It has good protection against low temperatures, moisture and noise. Its popularity is due to its versatility: there is no need to install several layers separately for thermal insulation, noise insulation and moisture protection. To improve the quality of thermal protection, complex use is necessary.

There is another material used for insulating balconies. In appearance, isolon resembles the previous material. It has advantages and disadvantages. Advantages of isolon:

• long service life;
• versatility of use;
• does not burn;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• flexibility facilitates easy styling;
• good thermal insulation and sound insulation properties.

Disadvantages include high cost, the need to follow instructions for use, and fragility.

Strengthening the parapet with metal structures

This method of reinforcement is used if you plan to leave the balcony open or make cold glazing. The complexity and type of reinforcing metal structure depends on the goals of the event. So, if you just need to strengthen an old metal fence that can no longer withstand wind loads, it is enough to do the following work:

1. Prepare new vertical supports.
2. Attach them to the concrete slab through the corners and weld them to the existing parapet.
3. Place horizontal railings on top of the supports and also weld them.

If glazing is installed on the new fence, you need to first weld a more complex structure, possibly extending it beyond the main perimeter of the balcony. Then fasten it to the slab and the outer wall, weld it to the old parapet.

Who should do the repairs?

The balcony slab is a common property of the house; the management company is responsible for its condition. Everything that is inside the balcony is the property of the apartment owners, so the burden of responsibility for the repair and maintenance of these useful areas lies on your shoulders.

Emergency balcony, what to do?

If you notice:

• that the balcony was tilted, and the normal slope to ensure the natural outflow of precipitation is 3% from the outer wall to the inner one;
• cracks appeared in the joint between the slab and the load-bearing wall;
• pieces of concrete fall off the slab or reinforcement is exposed;
• The parapet is rusty and wobbly.

You should urgently write an application to the housing and communal services department with a request for repairs, which will reflect in detail all the problems. If you do not do this, then all responsibility for accidents will lie with you. The response to your complaint must follow within 4 weeks: a commission is created, an examination of the balcony is carried out, and a report on the emergency condition of the slab is drawn up.

After the examination, a conclusion is issued, as a result of which you will simply be prohibited from using this structure. Although all costs for repairing the stove should be borne by the management company, they will notify you in writing that they do not have funds for these purposes, and you will simply lose part of your usable space. Therefore, repairs will have to be done on your own and at your own expense. To get back the money spent, you need to collect all the receipts and demand reimbursement of expenses through the court.

Attention: If after a written ban you continue to use the emergency balcony, then in this case you will be held responsible for accidents.

Balcony repair, photo of the slab before reconstruction

What to make a parapet on a balcony from

As we said earlier, fences can be made of different materials: wood, metal, brick, aerated concrete block, etc. Let's consider each of the possible options.

Tree

For those who are interested in wooden fences for balconies, they are much easier to buy and install (of course, if you do not have experience in welding), but you should know that wood is unreliable. When exposed to the atmosphere, the material loses strength. Therefore, wooden parapets cannot be used for subsequent glazing.

Metal

Metal structures for fencing balconies are the most reliable material.

If you are planning to install a balcony fence without subsequent glazing, then you can choose a forged metal structure as a parapet. This option will give the balcony individuality. Can be sold in any size for different designs.

It is worth noting that the forged parapet is mounted to the wall of the house and the external slab using anchors.

If you plan to glaze the balcony, you should choose a welded metal fence. The structure is assembled from several elements and secured with anchors. From the outside, such a parapet can be covered with siding, corrugated sheets or other material for external work.

Brick or foam blocks

Heavy fencing made of bricks or aerated concrete blocks is not suitable for remote balcony slabs, although there are craftsmen who want to insulate a balcony and load the slab to its fullest. The material is used only when installing parapets on loggias.

How to landscape a balcony with your own hands

To turn an open balcony into useful and comfortable spaces, after restoring the slab, you should sew up the outside of the parapet with corrugated sheets or siding, and hang protective curtains.

If you plan to have a closed and warm balcony, after glazing the extension is insulated inside with stone wool or polystyrene slabs. To make cosmetic repairs, it is enough to cover the thermal insulation layer with a vapor barrier membrane, make lathing, install light if necessary, and then line the inside of the room with clapboard or moisture-resistant plywood for subsequent finishing.

The photo shows an example of internal insulation of a balcony

For the most interesting ideas for design and modern renovation, see the photo gallery accompanying the article; there are photos of a balcony after renovation, which you can do yourself.

The main stages when installing thermal insulation from the inside

Work on insulating walls, floors and ceilings is carried out after installing new glazing. If the balcony or loggia is already covered with metal-plastic or other modern double-glazed windows, then the integrity of the layer of polyurethane foam and sealants applied during installation is checked once again.

Surface preparation

The loggia parapet is carefully inspected to identify cracks and defects. To achieve minimal heat loss, as well as protect the structure from waterlogging, it is necessary to carefully seal all cracks with polyurethane sealant or polyurethane foam.

Additionally, all seams between the parapet, walls and floor are processed. The surface of the walls bordering the street is also inspected. It is necessary to protect all structures as much as possible from moisture penetration and heat loss through cracks and defects.

Waterproofing device

After eliminating identified cracks and defects, it is necessary to protect the surfaces of the room from external moisture. To do this, the inside of the balcony or loggia is completely covered with waterproofing films. The membranes are attached with an overlap, overlapping adjacent sheets by 5 - 10 cm and gluing all seams with protective tape.

When using polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam, the waterproofing layer does not need to be laid. The low permeability of the materials will not allow moisture to penetrate the body of the insulation.

Laying insulation

After preparation is completed, the walls, ceiling and floor of the loggia or balcony are covered with thermal insulation materials. Rigid slabs are attached to concrete or brickwork using disc-shaped polymer dowels. The distance between individual fasteners should not exceed 40 cm. Most often, five dowels are used for one standard plate.

The joints between the sheets are additionally insulated with toluene-free polyurethane foam. All winter versions of such materials may contain toluene, but its use is unacceptable due to the negative effect on polystyrene.

Vapor barrier device

After laying the insulation, all structures are covered with a vapor barrier. For these purposes, it is best to use special polymer membranes or foamed polyethylene. The presence of a thin layer of foil on the inner surface of the material will help create the effect of a thermos and additionally protect the room from heat loss.

The vapor barrier can be fixed using polyurethane glue. All joints are also made with an overlap of 5–10 cm and taped with waterproofing tape.

Frame installation and sheathing

After the main protective layers have been assembled, a frame is installed from wooden blocks of 40x20 mm or 50x25 mm for attaching the finishing material. Sometimes a metal profile 60x27 mm is used instead of wood.

The sheathing guides are fastened only after the elements have been leveled. For fixation, self-tapping screws are used, the length of which allows you to attach a beam or profile directly to a concrete or brick base. The location of the frame is determined based on the selected material.

So, for drywall it is better to set vertical guides, and for plastic panels - horizontal. The distance between the guides should not exceed 40 cm. After installing the frame, the walls, ceiling and floor are sheathed with the selected finishing material.

Insulating a balcony or loggia will allow you to expand the useful space of the apartment and get an excellent office or relaxation room.

We insulate the structure

The standard insulation of a loggia (balcony) parapet is complete thermal insulation, where the interior of the structure is insulated together with the walls, floor and ceiling.

Options for waterproofing floors on balconies and loggias For effective thermal insulation of balconies, there are many special construction insulation materials. The most common of them:

If insulation is combined with balcony heating, then the most practical material is roll insulation. It has excellent heat-reflecting qualities, resistance to moisture and at the same time is extremely convenient to install.

If you take foil polyethylene foam (penofol), then you can, even without professional skills, carefully and efficiently install the first thermal insulation layer, eliminating all possible cracks in the working surface. Repeating the operation provides additional heat protection. The material is not only very easily attached to the surface (both a stapler and special glue are suitable for this), but also does not require careful leveling.

In the case of using tile insulation (foam plastic, penoplex, etc.), lathing, thermal insulation and vapor barrier film are used for high-quality installation. The final stage is the decorative finishing of the parapet, after which the loggia or balcony will acquire the long-awaited appearance.

Source

Insulation of a metal profile on a parapet

So, first of all, I had to solve a problem known and discussed in many forums on loggia insulation, namely: what to do with the U-shaped profile, which is installed on top of the brickwork and is intended to strengthen it, and its second function is the “railing” function "

First, about the essence of the problem: such a profile faces the street with one side, and the other faces the inside of the room and, as a result, it is a cold bridge.

The figure below shows that cold air from the street cools the metal profile and penetrates into the room through this cold bridge. Moreover, frost forms on the surface of the metal at negative temperatures, and condensation forms at cold but positive temperatures, since a “dew point” appears on its surface. Thus, due to the impossibility of raising the temperature of the profile, it is necessary to protect its surface from warm air and move the dew point inside the insulation.

Moreover, another subtlety was added: this profile is the basis for installing the corners of the window sill, which further complicates the task.

Since it was not possible to remove the profile due to the fact that glazed frames were already installed on top, and simply put, the loggia was glazed, we had to twist and get out of the situation.

Metal profile on the parapet

Having thought a little, I pasted over the entire internal part of the profile, located indoors, with isofol (penofol or analogues). Since it does not adhere well, I used bitumen mastic to fix the polyethylene foam - the main part of isofol. This choice was ensured, firstly, by the fact that bitumen mastic will reduce corrosion of the profile, secondly, during subsequent steps, the isofol layer will be additionally fixed with mechanical fasteners, and thirdly, I already had such mastic left over from sealing the seams... so something like “he has a lot of this shoe polish.”

Here, by the way, it is worth paying attention to two things: firstly, before pasting, the corners for attaching the window sill must already be screwed in and leveled, and secondly, all joints, cracks and corners of the isofol must be sealed with aluminum tape. This is necessary so that warm air from the room does not penetrate through the cracks to the cold surface of the U-shaped profile

Otherwise, frost or condensation will begin to form under the isofol layer.

And one more thing I read on the forums. The fact is that one of the coldest places when glazing is the plastic spacer profile under the windows. Since it is hollow inside, I drilled it every 20cm and foamed it inside - this gives additional insulation and reduces the penetration of cold. After that, just in case, I also covered it with isofol, naturally gluing the joints with aluminum tape. Since I read this a little later, I frothed it at the next stages, but it’s worth doing this right now or almost at the very beginning.

In the photo below you can clearly see a metal U-shaped profile lying on a brick parapet painted blue. The stand profile is covered with isofol. The profile has a corner for fastening the window sill.

Profile on a brick parapet with a corner for a window sill.

The first winter quickly revealed shortcomings and cold spots - cold bridges (the spacer profile has not yet been foamed, but the parapet is insulated with EPS - more on that later).

Frost on the railing

As a matter of fact, I had no doubt that the corners under the window sill would freeze at sub-zero temperatures, because they are the remaining bridges of cold. Subsequently, I solved this problem, but already at the stage of installing EPS boards and drywall

The photo also shows that the unsealed seam between the vertical part of the isofol (along the spacer profile) and the horizontal part (along the U-shaped profile) produces frost at the joint, so I would like to draw your attention once again: the seams must be sealed with aluminum tape

Thus, having partially insulated, or rather fenced off the U-shaped metal railings of the parapet from the internal atmosphere of the room with izfol (or its analogues), sealed its seams and joints, I moved on to the next part of the parapet insulation, namely pasting with extruded polystyrene foam slabs.

The last row

Two more rows were laid out using the same pattern. The second and fourth rows were reinforced. The last row of foam blocks for the parapet was first sawed to size, everything was adjusted, tried on in place, and then glued. The size was adjusted taking into account 2 cm of foam. The resulting gap between the foam blocks of the new parapet and the window sill was foamed at the end.

The last foam block was foamed on three sides, since it was not possible to securely fix it with an adhesive solution due to the window sill. The foam holds very securely.

By the way, do you know how beautiful wooden window sills are made? I think no, you don't know. And I’ll tell you about this in the article “Wooden window sills. What they are like inside." Study it so that you are not deceived when choosing window sills for yourself.

Well, in the end, it was necessary to rub all the seams between the blocks, but we decided to do this afterwards and with tile adhesive, while gluing the tiles themselves.

That's how it was. The foam block parapet on the loggia has been laid and all subsequent finishing has been completed.

Great video from Alexey Zemsky. The guys do everything clearly and competently. See everyone.

What do you think about the article? Write your opinion in the comments.

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Analysis of the condition of the balcony

Before carrying out work on installing double-glazed windows, you should carefully inspect the balcony and determine its technical condition. In older houses, quite often the concrete slab is in poor condition. It is a common property of the house, so you cannot decide on your own whether it will withstand the weight of the reinforced parapet. This requires an expert diagnostic examination conducted by the Housing Office commission.

The fence on which the double-glazed window will be installed must have the following characteristics:

1. Strength. The approximate weight of a single-chamber double-glazed window is 23-25 ​​kg/m2, and a double-chamber one – 35-37 kg/m2. With a known glazing quadrature, it is very easy to calculate the load per linear meter of fencing.
2. Sufficiently wide width. In addition to the plastic double-glazed window, an external ebb and possibly a window sill will be installed on it.

Primary requirements

Before you begin strengthening the fence and subsequent glazing of the balcony, it is necessary to assess the condition of the slab. This will require the conclusion of the housing office commission, since the balcony base is part of the general building structure. You cannot independently make decisions about the permissible load on it.

The height of the balcony parapet is regulated by GOST 25772-83 and is:

• in residential buildings up to 30 m (10 floors) – 1 m ;
• above 30 m – at least 1.1 m.

It is also necessary to take into account and comply with the following general requirements for a parapet for glazing:

• the height of the new (inner) layer of the fence should be higher than the old (outer) layer 10-15 cm – this will allow you to easily install the drainage system at an angle;

• the specific pressure of a single-chamber double-glazed window is 23-25 ​​kg/sq.m ; two-chamber 35 -37 kg/sq.m.

Strengthening the parapet with foam blocks

Foam blocks are an easy-to-use and relatively lightweight material with low thermal conductivity and hygroscopicity. For the construction of balcony railings, it is recommended to use grades D600 – D700. The work is carried out using the following technology:

1. Clean the base of the stove from foreign objects, dust and dirt.
2. If necessary, refill the screed. Lay a layer of waterproofing.
3. Mark the location of the masonry.
4. Take measurements of the fence. Calculate the required number of blocks. If the number of rows turns out to be fractional, then the trimmed row should be laid out first - this way the sections will be protected from moisture, which means the structure will last a long time.
5. Along the line of reinforcement construction, a U-shaped profile is rigidly mounted as a mortgage. You can lay a layer of insulation between the old and new fencing, but this will reduce the usable area of ​​the balcony.
6. Lay out the first row of blocks, coating the bottom and side edges with mortar. Pieces of galvanized mesh are placed in the first and subsequent horizontal seams so that they connect adjacent blocks - this is how the structure is reinforced.
7. Lay out the next rows of blocks with offset. Move the trimmed parts to the corners. Check the evenness of the masonry periodically with a plumb line and level. The side walls of the parapet attract the wall of the house. To do this, after each row, one end of the reinforcing rod is hammered into the wall, and the other is fixed in the seam with mortar.
8. As they are erected, the blocks are impregnated with primer on the outside and inside.

Video instruction:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=jjcKtJbFPsY

Bricklaying is carried out using a similar technology. It should be borne in mind that this material is much heavier than foam blocks. In addition, it is capable of absorbing moisture, which further increases the total weight of the brick fence in wet weather. Therefore, in most cases, the use of bricks for the construction of balcony railings is irrational and unprofitable.

Methods for insulating loggias and balconies

You can expand the usable space of any apartment by using a loggia or balcony. Initially, such structures were not intended for year-round use, so the temperature regime in them seriously depends on external weather conditions. That is why, to make full use of this space, it is necessary to take care of insulating the loggia or balcony.

The basic thermal insulation schemes of both design options differ little. The main differences lie in the need to construct a frame wall for balconies that do not have a permanent external fence, and to insulate the parapet for loggias that are bounded on all sides by concrete structures.

Insulation options

When finishing a loggia or balcony, the most popular options are rigid insulation materials, for example, extruded polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. These materials are easy to attach to a concrete or brick base; they are characterized by low thermal conductivity of 0.035 W/mK and permeability. As a result, effective protection against heat loss can be achieved with a thermal insulation layer thickness of 50 mm, which reduces the cost of insulating a balcony or loggia.

When choosing polyurethane foam, it is best to apply it by spraying. The protective layer is installed after assembling all frames for external finishing and laying waterproofing. Spraying ensures a monolithic structure of the insulation, which reduces the number of cold bridges. In addition, treatment can be carried out on all surfaces of the room at once, which reduces finishing time.

Semi-rigid mineral wool is quite suitable for protecting the ceiling and floor. It must be remembered that such insulation is extremely sensitive to getting wet. When moistened, cotton wool almost completely loses its thermal insulation properties.

Therefore, for such insulation, it is important to strictly follow the rules for installing waterproofing and vapor barrier layers

Internal and external editing of the under-rail space, methods of strengthening

Over the years of operation, the balcony and loggia are exposed to weather factors, concrete and iron must be restored. In order to maintain decorativeness, internal and external decoration of the under-rail space is needed

At the same time, when installing windows, the main load falls on it, so it is important to provide the necessary margin of safety for the enclosing structure around the perimeter of the balcony or the facade of the loggia. Everyone has their own technical subtleties

For example, a metal parapet on a loggia at the very edge of the slab will not be able to reliably hold a double-glazed window; it must be moved deeper. A collapsing slab can collapse under the brickwork; in Khrushchev and Brezhnevka buildings, a metal frame is often insulated. Loggias are more reliable. Firstly, these houses are relatively new. Secondly, the slab is fixed by the side walls, which allows increasing the static load. Such parapets can be safely strengthened with gas blocks.

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Content:

A parapet is a fence around the perimeter of a balcony or loggia, which primarily ensures human safety in an open space, and also performs an architectural and decorative function. If the parapet has become unusable, it must at least be strengthened. Also, the enclosing structure needs to be strengthened and reinforced if it is planned to glaze the balcony - the old parapet may not withstand the increased load.

Types of parapets

The main difference between balcony parapets is the material from which they are made. Its selection should be approached with particular care and attention. Of course, the choice depends on the functions of the balcony. It is worth remembering that one of its main features should be lightness. At the same time, it must withstand temperature changes that are characteristic of any corner of our country, and be no less resistant to other external natural factors, such as direct sunlight, rain, wind, snow, etc.

White wicker furniture looks very beautiful

Small greenhouse on the balcony of a multi-storey building

Today, manufacturers offer a wide range of building materials for the construction of balcony railings. Let's take a closer look at how they differ, what their features are and how to make the right choice.

On the lower floors, as well as for arranging balconies in private houses, wood is often used. This option, even despite a lot of competition, has not lost its popularity for several centuries. It has positive aspects, which include light weight, ease of use, and aesthetics.

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But at the same time, it also has negative aspects. Without special preparation and processing, it cannot tolerate the influence of external natural factors.

A glass parapet will help emphasize the modern style of the interior

Wooden floors have many advantages

The metal parapet is considered the most popular. It came to us during the Soviet Union and, due to the availability of the material and ease of installation, is still in demand today. It consists of a frame covered with sheet metal, for which pipes, angles, plates and other elements can be used

It is important that the edges of the sheet are processed correctly. Otherwise, it may cause injury

Metal structures are particularly durable

The next most accessible material is brick. When creating ground-based structures, it is one of the leaders in terms of reliability

But when it comes to a balcony, this material should be approached with extreme caution. First of all, you need to know the technical indicators of the endurance of the slab

Balcony interior in loft style

Calculating the load mass is a very important nuance when planning balcony repairs

Brick balcony parapets are the most popular

Foam blocks will help reduce the load on the load-bearing slab

• In addition to bricks, concrete blocks, natural stone, etc. can be used. Note that their weight may be greater, and therefore more dangerous. But due to their size, fewer elements may be needed for use, which will reduce weight and load. Therefore, just as in the case of bricks, the preliminary pressure on the base must be determined in advance.
• Today, foam or gas blocks are an excellent substitute for concrete materials. They have minimal weight compared to the above options. At the same time, experts note high thermal insulation properties as the main feature. Block structures are durable and resistant to external influences.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=qqFKHde7AnY

The only drawback in this case can be considered the cost, since the blocks of the new sample are presented as one of the most expensive examples. However, special glue is required for its installation. But all this can be brightened up by the speed and ease of installation, which you can do yourself.

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The anchor expands in the wall and securely holds the object attached to it

Device

The fact of installing a fence on the roof does not guarantee absolute protection of people and the roof itself. A slight inaccuracy in the connection of the parapet system with the roof can cause the structure to become loose, and the material chosen at random will not be able to withstand corrosion processes

Therefore, it is important to be confident in your abilities or entrust the construction of the parapet to masters of their craft, who will accurately calculate the roof area, find out the average annual precipitation rate and calculate the water load on the surface of the building

A roof fence made of brick is usually a continuation of the brick wall of an architectural building, which is created after all the ceilings have been installed. At the design stage, it is necessary to determine the required height of the brick “side” so that during installation it is possible to make a special groove necessary to connect the roof to the parapet.

To increase their service life, roof parapets are covered with metal apron caps. They are made from various corrosion-resistant raw materials: aluminum, galvanized metal, sheet copper (the most expensive options are patinated or oxidized).

After heat treatment, roof railings become resistant to environmental temperature changes, withstand any negative effects of precipitation, and their service life increases. Another advantage of these systems is that the color of the coating can be any, so the caps can either stand out against the general background of the building, or vice versa: merge with it in a single color design.

Metal parapets are in great demand due to their ease of installation, while they perform their functions perfectly. The parapet is sheathed with precisely cut pieces of metal, and all joints are bent into seam locks. This ensures maximum tightness of the structure; there is not a single hole or gap.

With the help of modern equipment, covers for parapets of any shape are made. You can purchase a flat parapet, with slopes or a non-standard configuration. The price of the finished parapet depends on the material used, as well as on the complexity of the shape.

Sometimes there is a need to repair fencing structures. Such cases are not isolated, especially if the building has been in use for decades or the parapets were not initially protected by aprons. In this case, repair is the surest way to return the protective system to its former functionality and appearance.

Interior decoration of the parapet

Sheathing the parapet on the inside not only gives a finished look to the repair, but also serves as an additional thermal insulation layer. The type of finishing is selected in accordance with the labor intensity of the work, financial costs, and the desired design of the room. The most popular methods of interior decoration:

• PVC panels;
• wooden lining;
• sheets of drywall followed by painting.

It is possible to use decorative stone or ceramic tiles, however, these materials are more expensive and heavier - this is not the best choice for finishing a balcony parapet.

Combination of decorative stone and plaster

Most standard parapets, especially in older houses, are not structurally designed for the installation of double-glazed windows on them

Therefore, special attention should be paid to the construction of the base for window blocks, since the strength and stability of the entire glazing will depend on the correct execution of this stage

Suitable materials for finishing balconies

Let's consider the most suitable and popular materials for finishing balconies.

Wooden lining

One of the most popular and inexpensive materials used for finishing balconies is wooden lining.

Many people think that this option is already hopelessly outdated, but in fact it has quite a lot of advantages and a small number of disadvantages.

pros

1. All the advantages of ordinary wood.
2. Easy installation.
3. High-quality dried lumber.
4. Pleasant appearance, especially when treated with stain.
5. Resistant to moisture and temperature changes.

Minuses

1. Care is required so that the material does not lose its pleasant appearance over time.

Wooden panels on the balcony

PVC panels

Plastic is another interesting option that can be used to decorate a balcony. This material has its pros and cons:

pros

1. Long service life and trouble-free operation.
2. Wide selection of shades and patterns.
3. Good thermal and sound insulation performance.
4. Easy installation and maintenance even for an inexperienced person.
5. Adequate price, affordable for many.

Minuses

1. Quite fragile.
2. Non-ecological material.
3. Afraid of the sun and temperature changes.

Plastic panels are a good option that can satisfy the tastes of most. They look modern and have a pleasant appearance. They are easy to install and do not require any special approach during installation.

PVC panels on the balcony

Fake diamond

This material is one of the most interesting options for finishing balconies. It has a pleasant appearance, and the balcony that is decorated with it looks very solid.

Previously, natural stone was considered popular, but only wealthy people could afford it. Artificial stone is a more affordable material.

Artificial stone has the following pros and cons:

pros

1. Environmentally friendly.
2. A wide range of.
3. High strength.
4. Resistant to many things.
5. Easy installation and maintenance.
6. Excellent heat retention performance.
7. Resists moisture and temperature changes well.

Minuses

1. There are none.

Decorative stones for finishing the balcony

Covering the parapet with siding from the outside

Vinyl siding has proven itself to be an excellent material for exterior finishing of balconies. Simplicity of installation, low weight, a variety of colors, durability and affordable price are the main advantages of siding panels.

If the parapet is a metal lattice, then it is advisable to combine the insulation with the exterior finishing. Sequence of work:

1. Place a level on the metal railing and secure a horizontal support bar, which will serve as the basis for the glazing.
2. On the outside, make a sheathing of wooden beams in increments of about 60 cm. If the siding is laid out horizontally, install vertical posts; if it is vertical, then a horizontal sheathing is needed. Pre-treat the timber with an antiseptic. Carry out the work using a level.
3. Attach guides and a starting strip to the sheathing for installing panels in the chosen direction.
4. Install the first 2-3 siding panels, inserting them into the profile and securing them with self-tapping screws to the sheathing beams.
5. At the same time as the siding is fastened, the insulation is fixed. Penoplex sheets cut to size must be inserted between the finishing panels and the metal parapet so that they fit into the cells of the sheathing.
6. Complete the installation of siding on the outside of the balcony.
7. From the inside, apply mounting foam to the joints between the insulation sheets and the wooden sheathing. The seams between the penoplex and the floor and walls are also sealed.
8. Place a second layer of insulation on the outside of the balcony. The sheets are attached to the first layer with plastic mushrooms. The gaps between the parts are also filled with foam. A double layer of penoplex reliably protects the balcony from moisture and provides a good degree of thermal insulation. The parapet is now ready for glazing and interior finishing.