Installation of plastic windows has been present in everyday life for more than 10 years. But not all buyers of PVC window blocks are satisfied with the window installation work carried out. Logic forces us to blame window installers for poor quality work, but in reality everything is much more complicated.
The size of the gap when installing plastic windows should not be extremely small or large - it should be in the range of 15-60 mm.
When installing plastic windows, it is necessary to make a small gap very carefully, otherwise an error may cause excessive stress in the installation seams. Other problems are also possible. Experts do not recommend making gaps less than 15 mm. The gap size should be in the range of 15-60 mm. There are also special situations that need to be taken into account.
The importance of correct measurements
The manufacturer usually offers the services of its own measurer. This service is free. The product is manufactured on the basis of a measurement sheet, where the measurer indicates all the necessary parameters. If, when installing a window, difficulties arise due to an incorrectly manufactured product, the manufacturer will bear responsibility.
As a rule, window measurements are carried out by the manufacturer
If the customer provides the dimensions himself, then at the stage of signing the contract for the provision of services for the manufacture and installation of plastic windows, he signs the measurement sheet, which is drawn up by the manager based on the provided dimensions.
With his signature, the customer confirms the correctness of the dimensions indicated in the measurement sheet, in his words, which means that if the window does not fit during installation, the customer will bear responsibility and all financial costs for remaking the product will fall on his shoulders. When taking measurements yourself, it is important to approach this matter extremely responsibly.
Correct installation is the key to success
In accordance with the standards and requirements of GOST, in windows made of white PVC, the distance between fastenings should be no more than 700 mm. and 150-180 mm from the inner corner of the frame. The diameter of the drill must be less than the diameter of the screw.
Holes for connection are drilled in the frames. Self-tapping screws are inserted into these holes and the frames are twisted. When fastening the structure with anchor dowels, holes in the frame are drilled in advance. According to GOST, there should be 150-180 mm from the frame corner. Between fasteners no more than 700 mm. Holes for dowels are drilled from the outside of the frame.
Then support blocks are placed under the frames. The support blocks can be made of hardwood or plastic. Next, the structure must be inserted into the opening and the frame must be secured with pillows. Then you need to take a level and use it to level the window structure horizontally, helping with support blocks and cushions.
After horizontal alignment, the frame must be aligned vertically relative to the facade using the same level and cushions. On the outside, it is necessary to mark the place where the PSUL tape (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape) will be glued. After marking, the frame is removed.
If you plan to finish the slopes with PVC panels, then you need to snap the starting profile for the slopes onto the frame.
With a shift of 5 mm. From the marks applied, a psul tape is glued to the outside of the frame. First on the top, then on the sides.
PSUL - pre-compressed sealing tape - is used to connect a vapor-tight water-repellent layer on the outside of the assembly seam.
On the inside, to protect the installation seam from moisture, it is necessary to stick a full-butyl vapor barrier inner tape and secure it in the corners. Then the structure must be placed back in the opening and finally leveled using cushions and support blocks.
After this, holes are drilled in the wall for the dowels and vertical spacer blocks are inserted on the sides of the frame and the window is secured.
After securing the window, you can hang the sashes. The next stage is insulating the window seam with polyurethane foam. For high-quality sealing, it is better to use professional foam for a gun with low secondary expansion. Before applying the foam, you need to moisten the opening with a spray bottle.
Shake the foam canister thoroughly and fill the openings to 70% of their depth. Seams larger than 5 mm are filled with foam in several layers.
If the window is installed in winter, then it is necessary to use frost-resistant materials and winter foam. 15-20 minutes after applying the foam, it is necessary to close the inner tape. A metallized vapor barrier tape is installed under the window sill. On the outside, an external diffusion vapor-permeable tape is installed under the ebb. The window is installed.
General rules
Measurements of window openings are performed from two sides: from the inside and from the outside of the room. In this way, the first important value is determined - the depth of the window opening. .
In panel houses, a typical situation is when the window openings were initially made with significant distortions at the stage of installation of slabs during the construction of the house. These values should be taken into account when installing plastic windows, and based on them, increase the size of the manufactured window. Internal and external measurements should be compared and the error determined.
When taking measurements, it is necessary to take into account possible distortions
After installing the window, to visually correct the curvature, you can use slopes, which not only give the window opening a neat appearance, but also prevent condensation from accumulating due to high humidity, thereby preventing the formation of mold.
To identify possible miscalculations, it is useful to compare the internal dimensions of the opening with the expected dimensions of the new window. The error in measurements should not exceed ten millimeters.
About each sealing layer separately
The middle layer is thermal insulating.
To fill it, polyurethane foams should be used. It will be necessary to use foams that are intended specifically for window installation. Such foams are able to fill the joint evenly; in addition, there is no need to trim them after hardening. All other foams after installation will hang in clumps from the side of the room, after which they will need to be cut off. It is worth knowing that such actions are quite possible to break the protective layer.
The internal vapor barrier layer protects the central layer from the effects of water vapor from the room, and prevents moisture from escaping onto the internal slope from the wall.
Related article: Concrete screed: how to make a floor, do-it-yourself device and technology, brand of concrete for pouring
The inner layer is a vapor barrier. It will protect the foam from the possibility of moisture vapor penetrating into it from the room. For such purposes, in the process of plastering slopes, you will need to use butyl-based vapor barrier tapes or a paint-based vapor barrier for moisture-resistant drywall. It is quite possible to use silicone here according to the same rules mentioned above.
It is possible to use different materials for the outer layers and various mounting foams, however, in absolutely any design, these three layers of sealing must be present.
It is worth understanding that when installing modern plastic windows there are many subtleties that will depend on the design of the walls and the materials used to seal the seams. However, three fundamental requirements must be observed. Saving your own money and time during installation amounts to pennies compared to the consequences that may occur in the future. This may require serious sums.
Errors when installing the best window units can negate its heat-saving properties.
Quarter windows
When installing a plastic window in a brick house, there are some nuances. Window openings in brick houses are characterized by the presence of quarters, which are protruding brick fragments that prevent the possible loss of window frames. According to standards, a quarter should have a size of 6.5 cm, but in practice this size can be any.
The standard size of a quarter is 6.5 cm
Therefore, it is extremely important to take this feature into account so that during installation there are no problems with the installation of drainage. To do this, provide a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the upper border of the lower quarter to the window frame. The window frame should be installed no higher than 1.5 cm relative to the upper quarters, and 4-5 cm relative to the side quarters .
During installation there should be no contact between the frame and the existing window opening. The gap size at the bottom should be at least 4 cm, at the top and side - at least 5 cm. This is due to the fact that plastic windows are installed using polyurethane foam, which has the property of primary and secondary expansion.
When installing a window in a brick house, it is necessary to take into account the presence of quarters
To prevent the structure from “sinking” after a secondary increase in foam volume, spacers are installed around the perimeter of the window at the window installation stage.
If, when installing a window, it is planned to install an external drainage system and a window sill, then this entails the need to install a support profile to which these elements will be mounted. Therefore, the height of the window must be reduced by the height of the stand profile, which is 3 cm.
Preparation for window installation: tools, dismantling and alignment
So that after installing plastic windows you do not find dew inside the double-glazed window, so that the window does not bend in an arc from the pressure of the foam or does not begin to “walk” along with the surrounding sections of the wall, the place for installation must be prepared. We have to:
- Remove the old window.
- Remove any remaining fasteners and trim.
- Treat the window sill, slopes and ebb.
Important! In wooden houses, installation of windows is complicated by the fact that seasonal (temperature) expansion and contraction of logs or beams will have to be taken into account. To compensate for them, a rather complex design is used - a pigtail
This is discussed in a separate paragraph in the instructions for installing plastic windows.
Removing the old window
Most likely, you need to dismantle a wooden window - firmly sitting on durable Soviet hardware. It’s better to start by removing the sashes: the smaller the weight of the dismantled structure, the easier it is to dispose of it. Is it worth removing the glass? Rather yes than no. Glass can still be useful, but remember that the larger it is, the more difficult (and dangerous) it is to carry. If you can’t think of a use for glass, feel free to leave it in the frame.
Tips: first, always remove the sashes before dismantling the window. Use a chisel or the flat part of a pry bar to “break” any stubborn paint or rust and lift up the sash hinges. After this, it is usually easy to remove by hand. Second, cover the glass crosswise with tape. The wider it is, the better. Apply adhesive tape to the joints of the glass and the sash. This will protect you from glass falling out and from fragments if the glass breaks.
It is easier to remove the frame by first sawing it on the sides, top and bottom. The separated sections of the frame are removed using a pry bar or a chisel and hammer.
Do not rush to remove the entire wooden frame of the frame at once - leave one “cut”: during installation, plastic windows need lining and leveling wedges, which can be quickly cut from the same sash.
Preparing a window opening after dismantling the old window
Remove dust and small construction debris from the surface of the window sill and slopes. Drive the old fasteners deep into the wall or pull them out: it is better to fill the holes from the old anchors with putty.
The window sill is also removable - the surface underneath does not need to be leveled, since the new plastic window sill will rest on a foam cushion and, possibly, wedges.
If you have time, then, of course, you can do a little work on leveling: using quick-drying putty.
Opening ready for window installation
Windows without quarters
When deciding how to measure a window without quarters, you need to do a few simple steps. The width of the future window is calculated after measuring its upper and lower parts. In this case, for the calculation, a smaller value is taken, from which 4 cm is subtracted for the placement of installation seams on both sides - the result is the width of the future product.
It is worth considering that the greater the error when measuring the width in several places, the greater the number of centimeters that will need to be subtracted to determine the final size.
The size of the seams must be subtracted from the width of the window opening.
Calculating the height of a window product occurs according to the same rules as determining the width, only in this case, about 2.5 cm should be subtracted from the resulting value for the installation seam and 3 cm if a stand profile is installed.
Why do you need a stand profile?
A stand or substitution profile is an element that is placed at the bottom of the window product and has a height of 3 cm. An external drainage system made of powder-painted metal is attached to the stand profile. The ebb prevents the accumulation of precipitation and protects the installation seam from it.
A support profile is needed to secure the drainage system
On the inside of the room, a PVC window sill board is attached to the stand profile, which also hides the installation seam and makes the appearance of the window aesthetically pleasing.
A window sill is attached to the substitution profile from the inside
It is important to know that when installing a PVC window sill, its width will be 5 cm greater than a standard wooden one . At the customer's request, the window sill can be made up to 70 cm wide, but it must be taken into account that the heating radiator does not pass under it, since a wide window sill will prevent the proper circulation of warm air.
It is not recommended to install a window sill that is too wide above the battery
When calculating the width of the window sill, take into account its overhang, which cannot be less than 1 cm. The length of the window sill is equal to the width of the opening with access to the wall on both sides, which should not be less than 5 cm.
Why is a mounting seam needed?
The installation seam is necessary to achieve the following goals during operation of the window unit :
Ensuring the required energy efficiency of the space being used.- Sealing the joint between the frame profile and the opening material, which minimizes the risk of blowing through the enclosing structure and eliminates drafts.
- The seam material prevents the penetration of precipitation into the room, freezing of slopes and window sill boards.
- Compensation for errors during the construction of external walls and the construction of the opening - mounting foam laid in the seam allows deviations from the geometry of up to 3 mm along any side of the structural element.
- The seam also serves to install vapor and waterproofing membranes with a self-adhesive surface, which prevent the formation of condensation on the inner plane of the glass.
- Compensation for the movement of the lintel from the permissible deflection, the possibility of minor movements of the window unit due to wind pulsation. This requirement is especially relevant when installing translucent elements at a height above 30 m.
If there is no gap of the minimum allowable width, the window unit will not provide the required resistance to television transmission, and it can also become deformed and collapse when the outer wall moves over time.
Is it possible to do without it?
Many property owners are interested in whether it is possible to do without an installation gap. This structural element may not be installed for the following types of objects :
- Frame houses made of wooden blocks - when sealing, it is enough to use clamping strips to frame the slopes.
- Cold contour of terraces, verandas, porches and other attached premises to private houses.
- Glazing of loggias and balconies on the top floors, provided there is no upper floor slab, which can cause deflection and deformation of the glazing.
- Stained glass structures that have their own compensation gaps between the profile elements. In such situations, fastening to the elements of floors and walls is carried out using hinged joints.
Important. In the absence of an installation gap, building structures are subject to more stringent requirements to ensure a perfectly flat plane and installation area of the translucent element.
Features of measuring a balcony window
The structure on which the window will be installed in this case will be the balcony fencing, so the width of the window will be equal to its length. Since the combination of the side and front parts of the structure will be carried out by installing a corner profile in the required place, their width should be subtracted from the length of the fence - this will be the width of the new window.
Balcony measurement
The height of the product is the distance from the top of the fence to the balcony slab of the above floor. From this value you need to subtract 3 cm for making the installation seam.
Installation options for PVC windows according to GOST 30971
Advertising of many dealers attracts attention with the statement that PVC windows are being installed in accordance with GOST. It is clear that many are interested in what spectrum to look at this statement.
Window installation
Requirements for the seam and fastening of the plastic window frame
In the initial chapters of the standard, along with certain characteristics and figures, instructions are given that indirectly hint at the fact that the installation of PVC windows is supposed to be done in Russia. What is it worth to even say that assembly seams are made from compounds that have not expired? Good, yes? Otherwise, we would now take expired foam somewhere in warehouses at a bargain price, and use it to carry out the entire installation. The seams themselves are divided into categories A, B and C. According to resistance to moisture penetration and maximum deformation.
What is more relevant for us is that the seams can be:
- Ordinary. These can withstand temperatures down to minus 30 degrees Celsius.
- Frost-resistant. This includes all other seams that are more resistant to cold weather.
It is clear that for most of our regions the first grade of installation is in no way suitable. The division is again based on the type of materials used. That is, when we take foam, we make sure that it withstands forty-degree frost. Further requirements are much more specific. Here are some of them:
- The seam must be insulated on all sides from moisture. To do this, it is divided conditionally into layers.
- The outer layer of the seam must maintain a water pressure of 300 Pa. At the same time, it should calmly pass steam from the inside to the outside.
- The seam is made of polyurethane foam, while its outer and inner layers are made of PSUL or vapor barrier membrane. This is what we will see in examples of the execution of nodes. The fact that the membrane is called that does not mean that it completely blocks the passage of steam. It simply filters in very measured quantities.
According to GOST, the frame can be placed on anchors or dowels, but in the examples, anchor plates are used everywhere. These are thin pieces of flat steel profiles that easily bend to the shape of the opening and cling to the frame with one end and the wall with the other. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws and dowel-nails. Some call this approach a sham. Be that as it may, to prevent moisture from getting into the seam from the profile, the end of the frame is finished with PSUL.
In cases where fastening is carried out on anchors, the profile breaks through
It is important here to isolate the attachment points. Because according to GOST 30971, as we said above, polyurethane foam must be protected on all sides
Let us remind you that the anchor plate runs parallel to the profile at the starting point, so you can install a vapor barrier membrane under it, and cover it all with PSUL on top. In those cases where the steel axis goes straight into the wall, something else needs to be done. For example, prime the entire surface of the opening along with the holes for the anchors with waterproofing, and cover the holes in the profile with silicone sealant, from the inside of the seam. That is, the technology is becoming a little complicated, and everything ingenious, as we know, is simple. Therefore, our proposed method is not entirely correct.
Frame attachment
In any case, the builder's task is to insulate the seam. How he will do this is a purely personal problem for everyone. GOST gives only general recommendations in this regard. And another burning topic is the problem of installation gaps. We have already written in the topic about wooden houses that some foremen are literally fighting for every millimeter here. The fact is that the more space around the perimeter of the frame, the more expensive the work, because more building materials are required. Blowing also increases. At the same time, if the house is new and the gap is too small, then the window will simply crush during shrinkage. This is especially true for wooden walls. So there you go! GOST does not say a word about shrinkage or the degree of moisture of timber, but temperature fluctuations are widely played out. And this is how it happens...
Along the text, a crude drawing of disgusting quality is given, which shows two sizes. Just below is a table where it turns out that these are gaps depending on the material and color of the profile. In particular, for plastic these distances are slightly larger than for aluminum. Appendix B gives a completely ordinary formula, according to which, as planned, builders should check their assumptions about the size of the installation gaps around the perimeter of the frame. It multiplies the temperature difference with the coefficient of thermal expansion of the profile material (wood, steel, aluminum, PVC) and the length of the window. A correction factor is also introduced. For all materials except painted PVC (0.5), it is 0.4.
Features of measuring window openings in private houses of old construction
Before measuring a window opening in an old private house, it is necessary to identify the actual dimensions of this opening. This requires dismantling the slopes. Often, significant gaps are hidden under the slopes, sealed with cement or insulation.
Before measuring a window opening in an old house, it is necessary to dismantle the slopes
During dismantling of the old frame, this entire additional structure may collapse and it turns out that the opening is much larger, which will only be a plus. But, if measurements were previously made using old windows, then all the free space will have to be restored instead of using wider windows.
How to learn to foam plastic windows?
In order to learn how to foam windows correctly, you need to undergo a little training. It consists of three stages.
Stage - 1. The simplest. It consists of applying a strip of foam on the horizontal surface of the window opening from left to right. At the same time, use the tip of the spout to press the foam onto the surface. Remember the principle of proper foaming described above. And don’t forget to prepare for foaming according to the instructions, which are also described at the very beginning of the article.
Stage - 2. You must also apply a strip, but only on the vertical surface of the window opening. This is more difficult to do, because the foam rolls down. Therefore, the main task is to prevent the foam from falling and apply the foam using the same method, pressing it against the wall with the tip of the gun.
Stage - 3. The most difficult. Now everything is the same, only the foam must be applied to the upper surface of the opening. If the foam does not fall off, then you can be congratulated and consider that you know how to foam a window and can teach others.
As always, I look forward to comments and subscriptions to blog updates. Sincerely, Vyacheslav Lankin.
Design Tips
When choosing a design, you should decide on its color, configuration, the presence of sashes and the desired opening mechanism, the presence of a window sill and ebb and flow.
As for the color range, the standard color of PVC windows is white; laminated profiles in walnut, mahogany, cherry, and oak are common. It is also possible to produce them in other colors, but due to their limited use, the cost of such windows is much higher. It is important to take into account that all windows on the facade of the building must be made in the same style and color, otherwise its architectural appearance will be disrupted.
The window configuration can be different: square, rectangular, round, triangular, polygonal, arched. Modern technologies for the production of plastic windows make it possible to realize any design ideas. In this case, the diameter of the arched structure should not be less than 50 cm.
The diameter of the arched window must be at least 50 cm
A plastic window can be blind or have sashes that are positioned vertically or in the form of a transom. When choosing the width of the sashes, it is important to consider that it may have a limit according to the catalog of window systems. Since perimeter fittings have limitations, the swing-and-turn sash cannot be made less than 40 cm wide .
The opening mechanism can be rotary, tilt or turn-tilt. When installing windows in panel houses, casing is not installed, but the slopes are finished and drainage is installed.
In panel houses, when installing plastic windows, drainage systems are installed and slopes are finished
In private homes, cashing is used to mask the installation seam and protect it from the effects of precipitation. If a low tide is installed, then cashing is mounted on three sides; if there is no low tide, then on four.
Plastic window sizes
Window sizes in a new house
In a new house, the total glazing area, size and location of windows are chosen based on the requirements of various architectural, construction and sanitary and hygienic standards and regulations.
Glazing should provide the necessary illumination of the room with natural light, as well as insolation - irradiation of the premises with sunlight. In addition, the location, size and shape of windows significantly influence the architectural expressiveness of the facades, as well as the interior of the premises inside the house.
When choosing window sizes, the design features of the walls of the house are also taken into account. Thus, it is faster and more convenient to build walls if the size of the window openings is a multiple of the size of the brick, blocks or timber. The size of the window opening also affects the strength and stability of the walls of the house.
"GOST 23166-99 Window blocks. General Technical Conditions" recommends the use of window blocks of the following overall dimensions:
- With a block width of 570 mm. height can be equal to 580; 860; 1160; 1320 or 1460 mm.
- With a block width of 720 mm. height can be equal to 580; 860; 1160; 1320; 1460; 1760; 2060; 2175 or 2375 mm.
- With a block width of 870; 1170; 1320 or 1470 mm. height can be equal to 580; 860; 1160; 1320; 1460; 1760; 2060; 2175; 2375 or 2755 mm.
- With a block width of 1770 mm. height can be equal to 1160; 1320; 1460; 1760; 2060; 2175; 2375 or 2755 mm.
- With a block width of 2070; 2370 or 2670 mm. height can be equal to 1160; 1320; 1460; 1760 or 2060 mm.
Many manufacturers of plastic windows mass produce windows of standard sizes, as well as other standard sizes, for example, to replace windows in multi-story panel buildings. On the construction market, in construction hypermarkets, you can find ready-made plastic windows of standard or standard sizes for sale. Standard windows are produced in large quantities on production lines. Therefore, the price of such plastic windows is noticeably lower than windows that are made to order.
When choosing window sizes, keep in mind that
with increasing glazing area:
- The cost of building a house increases. The price of 1 m2 of window is significantly more than the cost of building a wall of the same area.
- Heat losses increase, and hence the cost of heating and air conditioning at home.
As already mentioned above, it is convenient to choose the overall dimensions of the window opening as multiples of the dimensions of the wall materials, taking into account the thickness of the masonry joints. The size of the window opening is chosen so that there is a gap between the window block and the wall.
Dimensions of window openings in walls. Technological clearances
During installation, it is necessary to leave technological gaps between the window block and the opening in the wall, the size of which is recommended by GOST 30971-2012 Mounting seams of joints connecting window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions".
Technological clearances are required:
Products for construction and repair
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- To place sealing materials for the assembly seam in them.
- To take into account deviations in size, as well as deviations from the vertical and horizontal of the window block and the opening in the wall.
- To compensate for temperature changes in the size of the window unit.
Location of technological gaps between the window opening and the plastic window block.
On the left is an opening without a quarter, on the right with a quarter. There is an end (side) installation gap ( a - in the figure) - the space between the wall opening and the end surface of the window frame, and a front installation gap ( b ) - the space between the surface of the quarter (false quarter) of the wall opening and the front surface of the window frame.
For plastic windows with overall dimensions less than 2000 mm. It is recommended to choose the size of the installation gap a, within the range of 20 - 60 mm. For windows with overall dimensions greater than 2000 mm. - size of the installation gap a = 25 - 60 mm. Gap b in all cases = 10 - 20 mm. When installing window blocks in quarter openings, the recommended penetration of the window block beyond the quarter of the frame should be at least 10 mm.
To the known overall dimensions of the window block, add the size of the installation gap and determine the size of the opening in the wall for installing a standard size window . Or vice versa, the installation gap is subtracted from the dimensions of the window opening and the overall dimensions of the window are obtained for ordering from the manufacturer .
Advice from professionals
If all the windows on the facade are to be replaced, then everything must be measured at once. Their height may be almost the same, but their width may differ. For manufacturing, you need to take the smallest value of the measured window.
To determine the location for installing the window unit, the thickness of the wall must be known. From the inside, the structure should be mounted to a depth equal to 2/3 of the width of the wall, while you can take into account the width of the external insulation and install it further.
If you add 5 cm to the width of the opening for the bend and 4 cm for the protrusion, then the required value of the drainage width will be known. If the wall is sheathed, then this thickness must also be taken into account. The width of the slopes is measured only after installing the window unit.
How to foam auxiliary window elements?
How to foam the ebb and window sill?
As mentioned above, the ebb and window sill are foamed at the same time. In this way, the best joint filling density is achieved. We cut the ebb and window sill to size in advance. First we apply foam from the street side. We cover the support pads with foam, foam half of the window sill profile, apply foam to the platform under the ebb and screw the ebb.
If installers first install the flashing and then foam it from the inside, then in most cases it will turn out that the support pads will not be completely covered with foam. Technically, this can be done from the inside, but it is very difficult. The result is freezing of windows, fogging, condensation, and so on. From experience, 90 percent of such cases are precisely a variant of poor-quality foaming of the ebb. Here is a photo.
Then, while the foam has not yet dried, we continue to foam the bottom seam, but now from the inside at the junction of the window sill and the window. And we actually install the window sill.
When expanding, the foam first of all fills all the voids directly in the area of the junction of the ebb and flow with the window and the window sill with the window. Then, the excess foam seems to spread on both sides of the window into the free space, inward under the window sill and outward under the ebb. Thus, a perfectly correct, foamed, bottom assembly seam is obtained. Naturally, the main thing is not to overdo it with foam. Although a slight swelling of the window sill or low tide is compensated by warmth and comfort in winter))).
How to foam slopes?
The slopes are foamed in the same way. If the width of the installation seam is less than 5 cm, then the slope is installed simultaneously with foaming of the main installation seam. Here, too, the main thing is not to overdo it with the amount of foam. It is enough to foam 2/3 of the profile of a plastic window and foam a section of the wall 10-15 cm from the frame into the room. Then we simply insert the slope into the fresh foam before it dries. After expansion, the foam tightly presses and glues the slope to the frame.
How to foam profile connections?
To be honest, I think it's better to coat most joints with sealant. Foaming is certainly cheaper, but requires some skill. Although there is a good video on this topic by Alexey Zemsky, a famous builder. The method is not fast, but effective.
Foam the first layer, wait a while until the foam sets. Then, apply a second layer and immediately connect the products. All types of plastic joints can be connected in this way:
- Additional profile
- Connecting profiles (straight, bay window, 90 degree)
- Window sill profile
