Decorating a balcony with your own hands using a real example (23 photos)

assets/from_origin/upload/resize_cache/iblock/6e2/600_450_2/6e2de20d798149e0259ddebc24b01781.jpg From this article you will learn:

• What you need to know before you start finishing your balcony
• How to decorate the exterior of a balcony with siding yourself
• How to do the interior decoration of a balcony with wooden clapboards yourself
• How to make the interior decoration of a balcony with plastic panels, plasterboard, block house, laminate and MDF panels with your own hands

An integral part of a home in a multi-storey building is a balcony, which adds square footage to your apartment. The trend of recent years is to eliminate clutter on the balcony, creating winter gardens, comfortable places to relax or work areas. What are the stages of step-by-step finishing of a balcony? How to turn an old balcony into a place where you can have a good time? Read about this in our article.

Mandatory conditions before starting to finish the balcony

A balcony is a fortified area that extends beyond the plane of the wall of an apartment building. There is a big difference not just between a balcony and a loggia, but also between balconies in different houses. The differences are determined by both the type of construction, type of fence, and shape.

What are the differences between a balcony and a loggia? The first is an external structure attached from the outside to the wall of a high-rise building. On the contrary, the loggia is inscribed in the plane of the building; it is a niche that rests on load-bearing walls.

If you look at the balcony, all three sides will be open. It can be a box balcony or a glazed structure, one way or another its perimeter is located outside the wall of the house. In the case of a loggia, two sides can be open (when it is corner). But most often, three sides of the loggia are closed by the walls of the house.

Today you can find many types of building and finishing materials on sale; the choice will be limited only by your imagination. In Moscow you can choose everything you need for any interior design style. Therefore, finishing any balcony will not be difficult, no matter whether it is closed and insulated or open. Remember that in the latter case it will be possible to stay on it only in the summer.

If the balcony is insulated, you can decorate it however you like. First of all, decide what the balcony area will be used for. Pay attention to the most important step in the step-by-step finishing of the balcony, namely glazing.

What type of balcony glazing – cold or warm – should you choose? Again, decide why you need a balcony. Are you planning to combine the resulting area with the next room? Make a sleeping or working area on the balcony? The answer in this case is obvious: you need warm glazing.

Why do you need cold glazing? Just so that gusts of wind do not blow onto the balcony, dust, rain, or snow do not fall on it. However, this type of glazing will not make it warmer. It makes sense to carry out cold glazing if the balcony is not insulated and things will simply be stored on it, and you will only be on it in the warm season, using this area as a terrace. In this case, you should purchase frames made of metal-plastic, aluminum or wood with single glass.

Metal-plastic frames for warm glazing are installed on the parapet (insulated balcony railing), as well as on the balcony slab itself. In this case, the glazing will be panoramic, and there will be no need to install additional metal fencing. You can also place a stylish wrought iron grille on the balcony slab to make the appearance of the balcony more aesthetically pleasing.

Of course, step-by-step finishing of the balcony yourself will take longer than in the case when the repair is carried out by a professional team. However, this is the only way you can realize all your plans.

It doesn’t matter what finishing materials will be used. First you need to remove old coatings, eliminate cracks, and insulate surfaces. Take the step-by-step finishing of the balcony seriously, because the service life of the new cladding depends on the quality of the work performed.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for finishing a balcony with siding

What is siding? This is a facing material for external use, presented in the form of a plastic (PVC) profile. Siding is not afraid of severe frosts and is resistant to negative environmental influences. The only difference between panels of different brands is the level of resistance and duration of operation. However, if the lining is produced in different quality versions (not all of them can be used for exterior work), then any type of siding is suitable for exterior decoration; it is resistant to frost and other external weather influences.

In addition, due to the special design, even a beginner can handle the installation of siding. Another plus is that frequent lathing is not needed. If the profile was installed correctly - the recesses are directed downwards - the cladding is dense, the wind does not blow through it and moisture does not accumulate on it.

What is the step-by-step process for finishing a balcony with siding?

Action 1: preparatory work.

First, we dismantle the railings and remove the old finishing of the balcony. Using a grinder, we cut off the panel holders flush with the fencing bars. The joints should be inspected: if there are cracks in the fence, we fix them by welding.

We remove the cement from the lower edge of the balcony grille until solid concrete appears. To do this, we knock it down in sections. First, some kind of container (for example, a baking tray) must be tied to the outside of the fence, which will prevent broken pieces of cement from falling out. Think not only about the safety of your neighbors’ balconies, but also about the fact that a piece of concrete weighing 200–500 grams, falling from a height of 4 floors, can lead to an accident.

Using a wire brush, remove rust from the grille, then apply a rust primer, followed by a coat of paint. A border of concrete paint is not needed. After this, we check the level of the edge of the balcony along the perimeter, external and behind the bars. We achieve a perfectly flat surface by eliminating holes with cement. Have you noticed that the balcony leans to one side? In such a situation, you should stop repairs and consult a professional builder.

Action 2: lower and upper belt.

After making sure that the balcony slab is level, we make the lower belt of the sheathing from timber. The lower belt should be from 80 mm, for this you will need to lay out 2-3 rows of timber. Let's see how many whole strips of siding are required for the height of the fence (from the top edge to the bottom belt). The difference between siding and lining is that it cannot be cut lengthwise to size. If suddenly a few centimeters remain in the height of the cladding, then there is no point in raising it to another row of siding - it is inconvenient. It is better to leave this distance below, attaching the starting bar a little higher. Then the lower section of the wooden beam, not covered with siding, is simply painted.

The upper perimeter of the frame should be made of boards 60–100 mm wide. The outer edge should be flush with the sheathing strips, and the inner edge should be used as a support for the window sill. We attach the top belt of the sheathing to the metal fence so that its top edge is 2 cm higher than the top siding strip. This distance will be needed for the platband. Self-tapping screws and bolts are suitable as fastening elements.

Action 3: starting belt.

At the very bottom, we attach the starting profile to the horizontal strip of the sheathing with self-tapping screws; the successively installed siding strips will then rest on it. To make the work easier and safer, we will first make a safety loop from braid for the drill. We carefully tighten this loop around the wrist.

You can simplify the work (especially if it is performed by one person) by using 3-4 pieces of fishing line, one edge of which is attached to the inside of the upper belt. We tie a thick wire hook to the opposite edge. We attach the starting strip to these hooks, and then pass it over the railing and lower it down. We will do the same with the next siding strips in the future.

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Step 4: paint the bottom.

As soon as the sockets for the corners, as well as the starting strip, are secured, we apply two layers of paint to the remaining part of the lower belt (if the tree not covered by the siding is outside). Dry the paint layer thoroughly before applying a new one. We remember that the wood for sheathing should be treated with fungicides and impregnated with drying oil. Of course, over time, the paint underneath will peel off, but leaving the wood untreated is not an option; it will also become dark. And since only a maximum of 10 cm of the tree will be visible, this will not spoil the appearance of the balcony.

Of course, the excess wood below can be covered with half a strip of siding secured with self-tapping screws. Unfortunately, in this case, when the panels are not attached in a standard manner, the siding can be torn off by a strong gust of wind.

Step 5: attach the siding.

We begin to attach the siding. How to do it right? Look, the mounting slots in it are made oblong. Due to this, during thermal deformations, the panels move on the fasteners. There is no need to tighten the siding too much, otherwise the finishing material will swell and come off. How to attach siding using self-tapping screws? We attach the self-tapping screw to the magnetic attachment of the drill, and then screw it into the middle of the slot.

You can perform this operation with one hand (screws are much more convenient than nails), while you can hold the siding with your other hand.

To make it more convenient to work, and most likely you will be attaching the panels by weight or in a squat, first use a metal scribe to make a hole in the wood for the screw. Once it is screwed in, use a screwdriver to unscrew it one-fourth of a turn. Due to this, a backlash of 0.3–0.5 mm is formed. If you use nails, then they should not be finished to 1–1.5 mm. Of course, with such a gap, the siding will creak in windy weather. To provide thermal displacement, it is sufficient to loosen the fastening by 0.5 mm in the transverse direction of the play.

Step 6: External corners.

Before proceeding with the sheathing and cladding, the outer corners should be inserted into the lower slots. Then their upper ends are attached to the upper wooden belt. It is recommended to apply glue to the corner fastenings from below. Subsequently, we will push the sheathing beams under the corner flanges, while the siding will slide into their grooves.

Action 7: lathing work.

The width of the siding panel should be measured from the bottom edge of the lock of the first plank. We will use this step when attaching the sheathing beams to the fence. They must be secured using clamps and self-tapping screws. If you are a beginner, install the sheathing and siding at the same time. To do this, simply snap a strip of siding suspended on a fishing line with hooks into the starting profile. Draw a pencil along the top of the fence, then fasten the sheathing belt. Stick with this technology until you complete the job.

This way you can make the cladding parallel to the sheathing, while precise alignment will take place on site.

We slide the next strip of siding into the grooves of the outer corners, push it down until a characteristic click is heard. Then proceed to fastening the sheathing beams (parallel fastening technology). We repeat the steps until the work is completed. Ready! Now we proceed to attaching the platbands.

Instructions for DIY interior step-by-step finishing of a balcony with wooden clapboard

Only using wood as a finishing material can you create an environmentally friendly, prestigious and respectable balcony. If you like natural materials, then feel free to choose wood for your balcony renovation.

It doesn’t matter how glazed your balcony is, in any case you will need to insulate the space from moisture and sudden temperature changes. How to achieve this? You can use wooden or plastic lining, depending on your taste. Either way, follow the recommendations below.

If you are looking for a material for finishing a balcony that will suit metal-plastic windows and create an atmosphere of comfort, then lining is exactly what you need.

The long service life of wooden lining is another significant advantage. The fact is that during the production of this finishing material it is impregnated with a special composition that preserves the wood.

Elegance and style are the best descriptions of a clapboard balcony. However, this material has a number of advantages:

• Step-by-step finishing of a balcony with wooden clapboard will go quickly, and the result will please you. The uneven surface of the balcony will be hidden under the lining;
• environmental friendliness of the material used;
• limitless flight of fancy in balcony design;
• increased heat and sound insulation;
• a natural microclimate is created in the balcony space: if the air humidity changes, the lining easily absorbs and evaporates moisture;
• The panels are attached to each other using the tongue and groove technology. This means that installation will be easy and the cost of work will be reduced. Since the joints are invisible, visually the coating appears solid. In addition, such a finish will not allow dirty air, dust, etc. to pass through.

Step-by-step finishing of the balcony with clapboard means that you will need to create a special design in advance. Lathing is required when laying a frame made of wooden bars (metal profiles). This design is located perpendicular to the wooden panels. If the installation will be carried out horizontally, then lay out the frame vertically. Due to this frame, the walls are insulated. To create it, you will need bars 60 by 60 mm, fixed in increments of 0.5 meters. Using insulation, we fill the space between them; mineral wool slabs or mats are suitable.

How is wood paneling installed? To do this, use grooves and ridges (when available) or the joint-to-joint method.

It is better to choose chrome screws with a semicircular head for fastening; nails are also suitable. Of course, the hats will be visible from the front side. To make it look nice, attach the nails at the same distance. Is there a tongue and groove? Then the nails will not be visible.

Wooden cladding should be varnished. If wooden elements are attached externally, then a special oil varnish is used to protect them.

Dismantling the old frame

In the case where the loggia was already glazed, this part will need to be dismantled. Since it is risky to remove the bases along with their contents, individual glass elements are removed separately. Care must be taken to ensure that the glass is not damaged.

Sometimes window glazing has a device that is problematic for dismantling: there are many small elements tightly sealed using a special compound. This design is not easy to remove. It is recommended to seal the glass joints with adhesive tape to prevent them from falling out.

For dismantling work at high altitudes (above the second floor), you should not choose a time when there is a strong wind blowing outside. When removing an old metal fence, you will need to secure it with a rope.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for interior finishing of a balcony with plastic panels

Why choose plastic as a finishing material?

• Long service life 25–50 years.
• High-quality material is not afraid of exposure to ultraviolet radiation, is not subject to rotting, and can be washed with aggressive chemicals.
• Ease of use. Even a beginner can install plastic panels. You will save on turning to professionals for help.
• A huge variety of types of plastic panels of various shades. You will definitely choose the material that suits the design of your room.
• Low cost of plastic panels.
• Ease of care. Due to the antistatic properties, dust does not stick to the plastic; cleaning such a surface is easy. In addition, even if the panel is damaged, it will not be difficult to install a new one.

1. Let's start installing the sheathing.

Before we start covering, we attach a frame made of wooden blocks (metal profile) to the inner walls of the balcony. It is better to choose the second option - the fact is that the tree will change its shape due to sudden temperature changes and high humidity. This means that the skin will not hold its shape. You need to determine the direction of the finishing slabs before you begin installation.

Have you chosen a horizontal layout? Then we fasten the planks vertically. And vice versa, respectively. The horizontal arrangement will visually expand the balcony. And vertical will make it taller. The best option is to mount the panels vertically on the walls and perpendicular to the room on the ceiling.

We attach the frame strips to the wall in increments of 40 cm. In this case, the bottom strip should be at a height of 3–5 cm from the floor surface. We place the planks at the same distance from the wall, they should be parallel to each other.

1. Select the order of plating.

Where to start covering? From the ceiling, of course. We attach the starting profile along the perimeter of the room: using self-tapping screws to the window frame, and using dowels to the wall. We attach the guide profile in the middle of the ceiling on hangers, the pitch of which is 0.5 m. Do you have a small balcony with a width of up to 120 cm? Then one profile will be enough. If the balcony is wider, then we install 2 profiles.

We insert the panel cut to the width of the balcony into the grooves of the starting profile. We fasten it with self-tapping screws and a construction stapler to the guide profile. Let's see if the panel is attached evenly - this is what we will use to align all subsequent finishing. We also insert the second panel into the grooves, connect it with the previous one, and fasten it to the guide profile.

1. How to do wall cladding.

We start attaching the plastic panels from the corner. We install the sheathing as described earlier. We fix the corners around the perimeter of each wall. Then we insert the panel with a narrow shelf into the groove of the corner. Let's see if the panel is perpendicular to the floor and ceiling? It should stand upright. Now we attach the panel to the sheathing using a self-tapping screw or stapler. The next sheet of sheathing will snap into the groove of the previous sheet. Please note: the panels must be pressed tightly against each other and against the guide profile.

We cut the last panel to the width, making it 6-8 mm narrower than the remaining gap - this will make it easier to install. We perform this operation using a stationery knife. Do you need to cut sheathing sheets crosswise? A metal knife is suitable for this.

Installation of a metal structure

When performing work that does not involve expanding the area, it is necessary that the fence being mounted is flush with the concrete slab. Its height is usually around one meter. First you need to weld a subframe shaped like the letter P. The vertical posts are made from corners with a square section with a side length of 4 cm.

Welding the balcony frame will also require a crossbar - a 2 by 4 cm piece of metal profile is suitable for it, in which you will need to make holes. Sloping profile elements are attached to the sides. It is advisable to ensure that all corners of the frame are straight. This requires the use of a square during the assembly process.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for finishing a balcony with plasterboard

Step-by-step finishing of the balcony with plasterboard will be quick and easy. Just follow the recommendations below.

Step one. We install the sheathing.

If you are planning to cladding a gypsum board balcony, then remember: the result of all your work depends on the quality of installation of the sheathing. Under the plasterboard, the sheathing can be made of mounting wooden planks. You can also make a metal frame from a profile for gypsum plasterboard, it depends on your preferences.

We mount the lathing on the wall horizontally, at a pitch of 40–60 cm, taking into account the width of the insulation. Perform a double laying of the sheathing where the vertical joint of the plasterboard slabs occurs. The sheathing is secured with dowels or nails. The most important thing is that the planks on the surface must be attached as firmly and evenly as possible relative to the wall and the general level.

Step two. We lay insulation.

After the frame for the plasterboard is built, we fill it with insulation. We use polystyrene foam, mineral wool or other high-quality material.

We lay the insulation between the planks and secure it. We simply drive the foam between the wooden sheathing, this will be quite enough. If you use mineral wool, then to secure it you will need L-shaped hooks or dowels with a wide round mushroom-type cap.

Step three. We provide vapor barrier.

At this stage, it is necessary to carry out simple manipulations with the rolled foil vapor barrier. It will protect the material from moisture. We place the vapor barrier along the sheathing on top of the insulation, attach it to the staples using a mounting stapler. The joints between the parts of the vapor barrier should be taped, this is the only way the coating will be airtight.

Step four . Installation.

It is better to start installing drywall from the side where you can fix the whole sheet or most of it. Thanks to this approach, you can use the material more economically without having to cut the gypsum plasterboard again.

Even a beginner can handle installing gypsum boards on wooden sheathing. Simply fix the bottom edge of the gypsum board onto the beam (sheathing), starting from the wall, level the sheet, and press it against the wall (sheathing). Screw in 3-4 self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter and check using a level.

As soon as the first sheet of material is mounted, focus on it and secure subsequent sheets. If necessary, the sheet can be cut to complete the surface finish.

So, your balcony is covered with plasterboard. What's next?

First of all, the gypsum board surface must be primed, seams and joints sealed, and putty applied. After this, we proceed to grouting and priming again, using steklohost where required.

Removal of glazing - as an expansion option

This option is also called removal along the windowsill. The essence of this expansion is to extend the window structure beyond the balcony using heavy-duty special brackets. The design allows you to simultaneously get a comfortable wide window sill.

Stem installation

The general scheme of work is as follows.

Brackets treated with an anti-corrosion compound are attached to the parapet:

• welded fastening, in the case of a metal parapet;
• anchor bolts, with a concrete parapet.

Maximum rigidity of the structure is given with the help of a metal pipe, which strengthens the brackets together. In the future, it is used as a support profile for glazing frames.

If the condition of the balcony is unsatisfactory, there is a need to strengthen the structure of the parapet, which can be done by strengthening it with metal: welding profiles or steel corners, replacing metal fences. Another method is more popular: creating a welded structure that seems to “tie” the old parapet and rigidly attach it to the wall of the building. It is this design that bears the main load in the future.

Extended glazing can be done along the front (front) side of the balcony or along its perimeter, which allows for a maximum increase in its usable area.

A plastic window sill is placed on the fixed brackets, which performs two functions:

• decorative - for the interior;
• protective – for the external part (the remote structure protects from below from precipitation).

Tools and work procedure

Expanding the balcony undoubtedly presents a certain difficulty.

Tools and materials you will need:

• hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• slice or mount;
• drill and set of drills;
• building level;
• profile pipe (40x40);
• anchors (4 x 20-25cm);
• brush and primer;
• marker or chalk.

balcony with window sill

Work order

Calculation of the profile length: add the length of the side walls to the length of the parapet, the distance between the lintels and double it.

The old railings are cut off with a grinder, leaving the posts sticking out. Prepare a profile along the length of the balcony (if the length is large, you can work with two halves, which then need to be welded).

The rest of the work is performed together with the welder.

1. — Having placed the profile on the edge of the balcony slab, they pinpoint it on one side by welding.
2. - Having set it horizontally using a level, grab it in the same way on the other side.

• The profile must be even along its entire length (this is checked with a level and, if necessary, corrected with a hammer and pry bar).
• All elements are tightly welded (you need to monitor the quality of the seam on which the entire load will fall).
• The jumpers are cut (taking into account the width of both profiles), and they will then be butt welded.
• Use a marker or chalk to mark the attachment points of the jumpers.
• Having exposed the jumpers, spot weld them on the top, bottom and sides.
• Before finally welding the jumpers, check their evenness and adjust if necessary.
• Another piece of profile is needed for the outer part of the frame. Considering that it will be, one might say, “in weight,” it is not taken too long.
• Applying the cut piece to the ends of the jumpers, weld it.
• Two holes are drilled in the side lintels adjacent to the wall and secured to the wall with anchors.
• If there are no side walls, there should be small corner supports at the ends of the frame.
• Having completed the welding work, the slag is beaten off at the welding points and the structure is primed.

Please note: How to properly cover a balcony with vinyl siding inside and out?

Step-by-step instructions for finishing a balcony with a block house with your own hands

What is the main advantage of such material as a block house? It imitates rounded timber, and its performance characteristics will pleasantly surprise you. Translated from English, Block house means frame-panel buildings, most often used in Finland and Canada. What explains such popularity of this material? Because it looks like a real rounded log. That is why this material has such a name, because it allows you to create an unusual interior and exterior of the room.

The sequence of step-by-step finishing of a balcony with this material:

1. We remove clutter from the balcony. You will need to not only throw out old things, but also dismantle the previous decoration, if any.
2. Are you planning to make a living room on the balcony? You'll have to do a vapor barrier. We take glassine (polyethylene), cover the sheets, making an overlap of 10–15 cm. Roll out a roll of film, securing the material with aluminum tape under the ceiling on the top of the walls. Was the film torn during installation? We seal the resulting gap with tape. With its help we seal the joints.

1. Now we install a vertical wooden frame. For this purpose, we prepare dry bars with a cross-section of 5 by 5 cm. The strength of the structure and long service life are determined by whether it is impregnated with a fire-resistant and antiseptic agent. We place the wood blocks, leaving a distance of 60–70 cm between them. Depending on whether the wall is brick or wood, the frame can be secured using nails, dowels or screws.
2. Once the frame is secured, we begin to provide thermal insulation. We lay the heat-insulating material between the parts of the wooden frame on the surface of the wall and firmly fix it. To ensure good thermal insulation, we use tile rather than roll material.
3. We proceed to the next stage - finishing the surface with a block house. We attach the slats either vertically or horizontally, as you prefer.

1. We place the slats with the tenons facing up to prevent moisture from accumulating in the grooves. Then we attach them to the sheathing using self-tapping screws, clamps, staples or nails. Do you prefer self-tapping screws? Then, upon completion of installation, we hide their heads behind wooden plugs, gluing them to PVA. One beam will require 2 self-tapping screws. We fix one at the groove, the second next to the tongue.
2. The final step is to attach the linings to the external and internal corners. You can purchase them at specialized retail outlets, in the department where materials for block house cladding are sold.

Insulation of walls, ceilings and floors

Inside the balcony you need to insulate the walls, with the exception of the one that separates this space from the rest of the apartment. The ceiling should not be insulated if the floor is insulated on the balcony located directly above it. And if the ceiling is insulated below, then this loggia does not need to insulate the floor.

You can prevent heat loss from the loggia space by insulating the walls with one of several materials. Among them:

• Polystyrene foam, which gives a good level of thermal insulation. This material also has a low mass and low price.
• Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation. At the same time, it absorbs moisture well, accumulating it, therefore, if this material was chosen, it is necessary to provide a layer of waterproofing;
• Penoplex is a material with good strength and does not suffer from moisture;

A common technique when repairing a balcony with your own hands is a combination of two materials. So, penoplex can be used to insulate floors and walls, and for the ceiling you can purchase polystyrene foam due to its low mass. Individual insulation elements are installed in the spaces formed by the sheathing, using foam or glue to secure them in place.

Nowadays, foil-coated thermal insulation materials are increasingly used.

They make it possible to simultaneously solve both the main problem - thermal insulation, and achieve good moisture insulation.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing a balcony with laminate yourself

Laminate is made from wood with increased resistance to mechanical stress. Laminate consists of many layers, the top of which is a protective decorative coating.

The main advantages of this material are as follows:

• increased wear resistance;
• fire resistance;
• a huge selection of panel appearance;
• ease of use.

Step-by-step finishing of a balcony with laminate consists of two stages:

1. We install the sheathing.

The better the installation of the sheathing is done, the more reliable the structure will be. Using the slats, we will make sure that the walls are even. To do this, we run the strip vertically along the surface. If there are depressions, mark them with a pencil. We remove all bulges with a chisel or scrape them off. Apply a layer of plaster.

We place an emphasis on the bottom so that the first row of panels can be laid on it. Using a plumb line we find the horizontal. We are looking for a place for a vertical supporting structure, taking into account the dimensions of the laminate. If the panels are large, the sheathing profile will run along the edges and in the middle of the board. Typically, the profile installation step is 40 cm. Using a drill, we drill holes into which we then insert self-tapping screws.

We begin installing the metal sheathing from the outer parts. We stretch a rope between them and use it as a guide for the intermediate profiles. Wooden slats will be attached to the sheathing. We lay insulation between the parts of the sheathing.

1. Let's start installation.

We attach the first panel to two clamps. To do this, insert them into the grooves of the laminate and fasten them using self-tapping screws. You can also nail small nails, leaving a small gap, otherwise the material will begin to peel off and swell during the cold season.

We continue facing, moving clockwise. We rotate each subsequent panel relative to another board, so the locks will close. We apply sealant to the fastening areas to extend the life of the laminate and prevent moisture from entering. We fix the aluminum corners along the edge of the panels, also applying sealant to them.

Laminate is suitable for finishing a balcony only if you follow the technology for laying this material in a given room. You can do the installation yourself, just follow the described sequence. This step-by-step finishing of the balcony with laminate will delight you with a luxurious design that will not lose its attractiveness for many years.

Lighting and socket connections

If the householder decides to connect the balcony to the electrical network, then this stage of work is carried out at the same time as the installation of the sheathing. Inside the balcony, electrical cables and other communications are laid, and the points where sockets and switches will be located are also determined.

Even before performing all operations, you need to decide how many lighting fixtures will be located on the balcony. You need to know, preferably accurately, about the total illumination power. Taking into account this value, the method of power supply is selected. It could be:

• Socket in the apartment, which is located at the shortest distance from the balcony;
• Junction box;
• Electrical panel

To protect these communications from any accidents, it is necessary to take the electrical wires into special metal sleeves, which will significantly complicate access to them.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing a balcony with MDF panels

Balcony finishing with MDF panels is the most common. This material combines good design and high performance. Look at the photographs of balconies, the finishing of which is made of MDF panels: this material suits almost any interior style.

To begin with, we prepare the surface by marking sectors on it for the convenience of calculating the area for cladding. We determine the required volume of MDF panels. The panels have different sizes, so first you need to choose the material that suits you, and only then, based on your area, calculate how many units you need to buy. To complete the interior decoration of the MDF balcony, we add an additional 1-2 strips to the calculated amount of material.

Using putty, we eliminate unevenness on the walls and achieve a perfectly flat surface.

Where does the step-by-step finishing of a balcony with MDF panels begin? First of all, we mount the frame. Its base is made of metal profiles or wooden planks. We fix the structure to the wall using self-tapping screws or nails. We begin cladding the walls from the bottom up, securing the panels from the corner to the end of the row. Leave a distance of 2-3 mm between the sheets. We use sealant to strengthen the seams.

The balcony can also be lined with MDF sheets. In this case, 1-2 whole MDF sheets are enough to completely cover the balcony. However, installing such a layer of material will not be easy due to its heavy weight. It is recommended to buy several small sheets. This material is installed according to the same principle as the previous one. First, the frame is installed.

As soon as you finish attaching the MDF panels, you will immediately see the result of the work. Balcony finishing is complete! Even a beginner can perform such repairs on his own, without turning to professionals for help, and will require ordinary materials.

Two possible ways

To increase the size of the balcony, you can use one of two possible methods:

• Removal of glazing along the parapet. When using this method, the actual size of the room is increased, while the nominal area of ​​the balcony remains unchanged, so there is no need to obtain a permit or redo documents for housing.
• Extension of the slab around the perimeter. This is a complex and responsible work, which requires drawing up a project and obtaining a permit. But by choosing this method, you can increase the area by about a third, which will make the balcony in the Khrushchev-era building much more spacious.

Examples of finishing balconies: photos for inspiration