Vapor barrier when insulating a balcony: expert advice

Quite often, when insulating the walls of a house, owners forget to take care of the thermal insulation of loggias and balconies. But with this option it is almost impossible to achieve the required microclimate in the apartment, since cold air will continue to penetrate into the premises. In addition, in this case, you can forget about an additional cozy corner, and use balconies only as a place to store various unnecessary things.

Of course, this does not mean that money will be wasted on sealing the walls and you will have to spend a huge part of the budget on heating the space with electric heaters. In fact, it is enough to carry out repair procedures on your loggia or balcony yourself and forget about the dampness and cold in the house for a long time. At the same time, it is quite possible to arrange a personal office or library here, where there will be a comfortable atmosphere even in winter.

Perhaps one of the main questions that arises when carrying out work is whether a vapor barrier is needed when insulating a loggia? Many people are simply afraid of this word, believing that this process may be beyond their capabilities. In fact, there is nothing complicated here, just choose the right material and strictly follow the installation instructions. So, what is vapor barrier and what does it look like?

Learn more about insulating loggia walls.

Why is vapor barrier necessary?

The weather in the off-season is changeable. The air temperature can fall and rise. Insulation with special means will protect against condensation formed during the appearance of steam. Gradually the walls, floor and ceiling of the balcony will become damp.

This can lead to the appearance of fungus, which will be difficult to get rid of.

Many people believe that if the conditions on the street are always normal (for example, in the southern part), then such a process can be dispensed with. This is not true; vapor barrier is necessary for all closed loggias, without exception.

Waterproofing the ceiling of a balcony or loggia

If the balcony is glazed, then waterproofing the floor may not be required. But what should you do if, after glazing, the balcony is still flooded from above - water flows from the neighbors through the cracks in the floor slab? The answer is clear - repair and waterproofing of this structural element is required. And here a new question arises: who should repair the loggia to fix the leak?

The law states that if the situation is an emergency, then measures to eliminate it must be taken by the housing and communal organization. However, recognizing a balcony or loggia as emergency is quite problematic. To do this, there must be clear signs of structural failure. Convincing neighbors above to carry out the work necessary on their part also sometimes seems impossible. The only way out is to waterproof the balcony ceiling from the inside.

Here are step-by-step instructions for waterproofing the ceiling of a loggia or balcony using penetrating mastic:

  1. Preparing the ceiling surface: cleaning the floor slab from plaster and other finishing materials.
  2. Abundantly moisten the ceiling surface with water using a sprayer and roller.
  3. Apply the first layer of penetrating mastic using a brush with synthetic bristles. In this case, strokes are made in one direction (for example, along the floor slab).
  4. Applying a second layer of mastic. It is carried out after the first layer has set and the surface has been thoroughly moistened again. The movements of the brush are perpendicular to the original direction (for example, across the floor slab).

After covering the balcony ceiling with mastic, it is necessary to keep it moist for the first 24 hours to avoid the appearance of cracks.

To ensure more thorough waterproofing of a balcony or loggia, it is advisable to treat not only the ceiling with mastic, but also the walls adjacent to it to a height of about 20 cm.

Main characteristics of vapor barrier materials

Vapor barrier layer:

  • reliably waterproofs the room, thereby eliminating the appearance of condensation;
  • retains the qualities of a sound-absorbing and heat-insulating layer;
  • serves as a barrier against moisture.

Based on all of the above, it is clear that it is impossible to do without a vapor barrier when finishing a balcony.

When buying waterproofing with such properties in a store, keep in mind that the reliability of the waterproofing depends on the strength index. The larger this parameter, the more reliable it is. The most convenient are insulating products that do not need to be secured in complex ways. It will also be important what water pressure such a waterproofing material can withstand. This characteristic will guarantee that moisture will not penetrate into the room.

Video

1. The result of insulating the loggia.

Glazed balcony. Demonstration of electrical terminals. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. Use of penoplex with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, finishing the walls with putty. Concrete floor screed over insulation slabs.

2. Stages of repair work on the balcony.

Consistent process of arranging a room. Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with polystyrene foam and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, OSB sheathing, installation of laminate slats.

Types of vapor barrier

Vapor barriers have different purposes. Vapor-permeable membranes and films are most often used for finishing balconies. In the first case, steam cannot pass through the product. Insulating films prevent moisture from entering from the street. They protect against heat loss and even the strongest winds.

The vapor barrier layer should be under the insulation (for example, under mineral wool). Mineral wool has very poor protection against condensation penetration, so covering with a waterproofing layer will not be superfluous. You can use aluminum foil film or polyethylene with a reinforced coating for this purpose. If such a waterproofing agent is used, good ventilation in the loggia is necessary.

Moisture does not accumulate on some types of vapor barrier. Their anti-condensation properties are due to the existing fabric layer on the reverse side. The liquid accumulates on this coating and does not escape into the room. The film is laid so that the fabric side is on the bottom. The size between it and the insulation should be about 5-7 cm.

Vapor-permeable membranes are suitable for thermal insulation of the outer side of the walls of a balcony or its roof. In the latter case, such an insulator is applied to the top layer. Thanks to this, moisture accumulates only on the insulation and does not enter the loggia.

Types of penofol characteristics and subtleties of application

A - one-sided foiling. Insulate walls and ceilings indoors (residential, industrial). Can be used in the construction of buildings and repair of old structures;

B - double-sided foiling. Suitable for arranging loggias and balconies - as it retains heat in winter and creates coolness in summer. Also used for construction and renovation work in new and old buildings.

C - one-sided foil and self-adhesive layer. Designed to insulate walls, ceilings, floors, various metal surfaces of car interiors, air ducts, pipelines. It comes with a less smooth adhesive surface - blue and a smoother adhesive surface - white.

Advantages:

  • thin (insulation thickness of grade A - 2-10 mm, grades B, C - 2-40 mm);
  • flexible;
  • easy;
  • environmentally friendly;
  • ease of installation for balconies of any configuration;
  • ease of transportation (roll width 120 mm, weight 5-7 kg);
  • affordable price;
  • variety of types;
  • excellent performance indicators.

One of the advantages of penofol is its small thickness

Flaws:

  • softness - cannot be used for finishing with wallpaper or plaster; not used under screed (when interacting with cement, the beneficial properties of the foil are lost);
  • material type A, B is difficult to fix on the surface, it is advisable to use special adhesives for installation (if the coating is nailed down, the thermal insulation performance will be significantly reduced);
  • when insulating the outside of a building, it is installed under the surface finishing, as it serves as an additional layer.

Membrane types

Membranes with vapor barrier characteristics are divided into several types:

  • Pseudo-diffusion (perforated). Essentially these are reinforced films or combined fabrics with small holes across the entire surface. Their vapor permeability coefficient is approximately 300 g/m². These membranes are used for waterproofing under roofs. Among the disadvantages, they note the possible entry of dust into the perforations or blockage of the holes with frost during the cold season.

  • Diffusion (porous). Their structure is similar to fiber. The pores of these membranes become clogged differently than those of perforated membranes. Therefore, they are the preferred means of creating an air layer over the insulation. Its vapor permeability coefficient is at the level of 1000 g/m².

  • Superdiffusion (multilayer). These membranes are assembled in several layers. They do not clog because they are not perforated. This vapor barrier element is suitable for arranging balconies in areas with high dust levels. Pollution and moisture will not penetrate into the room through it. The condensate permeability coefficient ranges from 900 to 2500 g/m².

Membranes made from three layers are considered the highest quality and most expensive.

The most commonly used is their two-layer variety.

The main stages of work on insulating the loggia space

In order to increase the usable space in your home and use the premises all year round, you need to:

1. Seal gaps , if any. Carefully examine the room to eliminate all design flaws. As a rule, cracks are filled with polyurethane foam, even if they are large.

Experts recommend using the following construction foams: “Macroflex”, “Moment Montazh”.

After complete drying, it is necessary to trim off the excess.

2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.

3. Organize a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - “Penetron”, “Aquaton”, etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or spray. This impregnation penetrates into the thickness, so the walls become as resistant to adverse weather as possible and their strength characteristics improve.

5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, you should use special polymer membranes (“breathable”), as well as Rockwool, Izospan, and penofol films.

Finishing the loggia with a vapor barrier: the best materials

Manufacturers offer a large number of layers for vapor insulation:

  • Tyvek from DuPont . It has increased elasticity and strength. This membrane from the Luxembourg brand can be used in any climate. Thanks to special layers, the balcony will not be stuffy.

  • Yutafol . The Czech development does not allow moisture to pass through, and condensation evaporates from the surface of the walls and floor without obstacles. Most often used on sloping roofs.

  • Penoizol . A popular layer for vapor barrier on loggias. Thanks to its special composition, the substance can retain moisture and evaporate it over time.

  • Delta. Such materials from the German brand are characterized by high strength and long service life.
  • Megaisol . Has excellent insulating properties. Can be pasted on the ceiling, walls and floor. It must be laid on top of the insulating fiber. The metallized coating reliably protects against moisture penetration, and the inner layer traps fumes inside and prevents them from lingering on the loggia.
  • Izospan . It simultaneously serves as insulation and isolates steam on the balcony. Provides excellent insulation and does a good job of removing moisture from any internal structure.

  • Penofol . It has good thermal conductivity, flexibility and water resistance. The membrane is very thin, but at the same time it protects well from frost getting inside.

In addition to all of the above, liquid rubber is popular in waterproofing balconies. This material serves as good protection for reinforced concrete joints and connections.

Insulation of walls and roof

Foiled polystyrene foam is most often used to waterproof walls. It is glued to the walls using frost-resistant glue. The joints are sealed. Mastic is applied to polystyrene foam for waterproofing. A vapor barrier layer is laid.

The outer part of the balcony is treated with mastic. The surface is pre-moistened. The mastic is applied in a layer of 1 mm. After it has set, after several hours, the next layer is applied perpendicular to the previous one.

When waterproofing the roof of a suspended balcony, we first process all the joints between the sheets of roofing material. Then we lay the material selected for waterproofing under the sheathing. From the outside, we treat the joints of the wall and roof with polyurethane foam. After the foam has hardened, cut off its protruding parts. We treat with sealant. We attach a strip of tin above the junction of the roof and the wall. We seal the joint.

Stages of waterproofing a concrete loggia roof:

  • lay a vapor barrier layer;
  • lay a layer of insulation;
  • we make a screed on the roof and treat it with mastic as described above;
  • we lay rolled waterproofing material;
  • we lay roofing material on it;
  • We secure it along the edge with a strip and treat it with mastic.

If the waterproofing of the balcony is done correctly, there will be no leaks guaranteed. All finishing materials will last a long time.

After high-quality waterproofing, you can begin finishing work.

Preparatory work

Many home craftsmen are interested in how to make a vapor barrier under insulation on a loggia and is it difficult? Protection against condensation must be carried out before insulation. To make it, you need to remove the debris, remove the balcony threshold and door frame. If there are gaps or cracks, they should be sealed with foam installation foam.

After it dries, it is necessary to eliminate the irregularities by cutting them off with a construction knife. The vapor barrier layer can be installed when the wall surface is completely ready.

Laying the material will vary depending on its type:

  • when insulating the ceiling, the steam film is attached to the insulation;
  • for internal cladding with foam plastic or mineral wool, insulation is laid between the layers;
  • installation on the outside of insulating materials is carried out if the facade is insulated from the outside.

Some anti-moisture products have a fabric side. When installing it, this surface is positioned so that it “looks” outward. If internal insulation is carried out with a foil membrane, it is placed on the inside of the walls.

Loggia waterproofing technology from the outside

To get started, learn two simple rules. First, the surface is cleaned before any finishing, and it’s the same here. If there are cracks, seal them. Secondly, all external work is carried out in dry and warm weather, at least from +5 degrees.


You can waterproof the roof with coating materials, or you can use rolled materials, which is more effective. The best option is several layers of rolled material

And then the work proceeds according to this plan:

  1. Roof insulation. This stage is desirable for residents of the top floors and private houses.
  2. Isolation of the partition. External insulation should only be carried out by specialists who use special climbing equipment. In most cases, coating materials are used.
  3. Floor insulation. How to do it? Yes, on the same principle as insulating the visor. But the possibilities for waterproofing the floor are many times greater. For example, to make the floor of a loggia or balcony warmer, lay a small layer of expanded clay.

And then about how to insulate a closed loggia from the inside.

Vapor barrier of the floor on the balcony

To insulate this area of ​​the loggia from steam, a slatted sheathing is installed. After it, a vapor barrier strip is placed. Boards or plywood will serve as the floor surface. Linoleum or laminate should be laid on top of them. In the latter case, an additional thin polyurethane backing is needed.

Be sure to place vents in the space under the floor. They need to be connected to ventilation ducts. Then the vapor barrier of the balcony will function normally.

To create insulation from steam and at the same time insulate the floor, you can use Izospan. This material is cut into small rectangular pieces and overlapped. Its size should be about 8-10 cm. To prevent the edges of the vapor barrier gasket from coming apart, they are glued with construction tape.

Review of popular materials

The construction market offers vapor barrier materials from domestic and foreign manufacturers. They differ in properties, installation methods, and cost. Among the popular ones:

  1. Penoizol. This is liquid foam. It is poured into the space between the walls. It has many qualities, but is not used on loggias due to its high cost and complex installation;
  2. Tyvek. Presented by non-woven material, manufacturer – DuPont. This is a membrane material, due to its unique structure it removes steam from insulation;
  3. Tyvek Jutafol is a polyethylene film with several layers, which is reinforced with mesh or fabric. Some types are equipped with reflective aluminum layers. Prevents steam penetration, condensate collection, and retains heat;
  4. Yutafol Delta is a durable film that protects against steam and condensation;
  5. Delta Izospan is a film material from a Russian manufacturer, the qualities are similar to the material described above, but the price is more affordable;
  6. Penofol is a thin thermal insulation material that additionally provides hydro- and vapor barrier;
  7. Foamed polyethylene – covered with an aluminum film, retains heat, protects from excess noise and winds;
  8. Liquid rubber is designed for seamless insulation. It can be used on any surface, however, the subtleties of the work require the involvement of professionals.

Balcony vapor barrier during insulation

Anti-condensation devices are installed in different ways. Which one is preferred will depend on the purpose of the material. For example, a vapor barrier film can be used to insulate the walls inside a balcony. In this case, it is glued from the side of the room on top of the insulation.

Anti-condensation membranes are installed on the side facing the street. Using these means, moisture is removed from the thermal insulation. The vapor barrier of the loggia is carried out in different ways, depending on the material that was used.

For example, if there is a foil or anti-condensation (fabric) layer on the film, it must be located indoors. With two identical sides, it can be laid in any way you like. Diffusion materials to prevent steam penetration into the loggia have different surface colors. Which side should be used to lay such a moisture-retaining product is written in the instructions from the manufacturer.

Waterproofing the balcony canopy, draining water from the balcony

The canopy on the balcony is the waterproofing of the balcony, because this design protects the balcony from precipitation, which, of course, extends its service life.

If you are going to install a canopy, you will have to choose how it will look and what it will be made of. These can be steel sheets, for example, corrugated sheets or metal tiles. These can also be polymer materials; they cover the roof well and protect it reliably.

And, of course, the third option is installing double-glazed windows. In this case, triplex, tempered glass is used. This is the most expensive way to design a canopy, but it is not only a reliable way to drain water from the balcony, but also the most aesthetic and modern.

As for, for example, waterproofing terraces, the most popular option is the combination of special sealing tapes and liquid solutions. An alternative is polyurethane glue.

Insulation and waterproofing of the balcony from the inside ()

Waterproofing is necessary for both closed and open balconies. It is necessary for the roof, and for the floor, and for concrete lintels, as well as the external cornice

It doesn’t matter what composition, coating or penetrating you use, the main thing is the high degree of moisture resistance of this material

Good afternoon. Please tell me, we removed the floor tiles from an unglazed brick loggia, we want to lay porcelain tiles with glue, the slope is correct. Do I still need to do waterproofing or can I do without it?

It is better, of course, to waterproof it for reliability. Still, you’re doing it for yourself and for a long time, so it’s better not to mess around and save money on it, especially since you want to lay tiles on an unglazed loggia

Good afternoon. Please tell me, we removed the floor tiles from an unglazed brick loggia, we want to lay porcelain tiles with glue, the slope is correct. Do I still need to do waterproofing or can I do without it?

In my opinion, the concepts of waterproofing and vapor barrier are a little confused. The roof over a loggia or balcony is waterproofing, it protects from rain, and a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the insulation from the side of the room, is a vapor barrier, because it protects the insulation from water vapor. Penofol from the inside will also be a vapor barrier, but it will not be enough to insulate the balcony, and the fence will also need to be insulated with polystyrene foam or mineral wool board.

Is a vapor barrier necessary when insulating a balcony with polystyrene foam?

Many home craftsmen are confident that when using such insulation there is no need for anti-condensation agents. They are partly right, and the use of waterproofing will depend on the technology and method of laying penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam).

Sheets of this insulation are laid with an overlap or lock of 2 or 3 cm thanks to a special groove along the edge. It is made in the shape of the letter G. Expanded polystyrene is attached to the surface of the walls using waterproof glue. In this case, moisture and water vapor do not enter the balcony from the street. The disadvantage of this method is that it will become stuffy inside the room.

Vapor barrier with expanded polystyrene

To avoid this, it is recommended to use forced ventilation in the upper part of the loggia under the roof. A loggia insulated with polystyrene foam will still transmit heat, so it requires mandatory insulation from frost.

If there are even small gaps in the tightness and the joints are broken, steam from the cold street can enter the loggia and freeze under the insulating lining.

And under the weight of snow and ice in winter, polystyrene foam can break.

Advice from professionals

According to professionals, the vapor barrier of a balcony should be done after careful preparation of all surfaces. Even a small crack on the wall can contribute to poor installation of the material, and subsequently the penetration of steam or liquid.

After general cleaning of the wall, the ceiling must be thoroughly treated with cement and any unevenness that may have arisen must be removed. After the procedure, the balcony must dry, and only then can you begin vapor barrier. As for the floor, it does not need careful leveling, because liquid collection in the lower part of the loggia is unlikely. For insurance, a thin film with aluminum layers can be laid under the foam, however, there is no particular need for this.

Recommended ventilation gap size

In order for ventilation to be effective, you need to know how to use anti-condensation film. It is best to make a gap in the range from 4 to 7 cm. If diffusion-type membranes are used, you can not leave it, but lay them directly on the thermal insulation materials.

Protective membranes have different characteristics. In order to make it clear exactly how to lay such a moisture barrier element, manufacturers mark the material with markings. If they are not there, then an anti-condensation membrane must be applied with a gap of 8-15 cm.

Selecting a thermal insulator

Advantages and disadvantages are inherent to each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.

The most common thermal insulator options:

  • Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
  • Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
  • Polyurethane foam (PPU);
  • Styrofoam;
  • Mineral wool.

Mineral wool

The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw material:

An example of installing mineral wool on a loggia. The material is placed into the prepared structure. The mounting frame can be made of metal profiles or wooden blocks.

Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminum foil improves the level of thermal insulation.

The main disadvantage is that moisture is destructive; a vapor barrier is required.

Polymer-based insulation

Penoplex, polyurethane foam, foam plastic, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foam compounds.

Advantages:

  • The presence of gas bubbles provides not only a good level of thermal insulation, but also light weight of the slabs;
  • High degree of moisture resistance;
  • The materials are durable;
  • Antifungal resistance;
  • Simplicity and convenience when laying slabs or sheets, as well as rolls (foamed polyethylene);
  • An economical repair option, provided you choose polystyrene foam as insulation.

The main disadvantage: they support the spread of flame during a fire and release harmful substances during the combustion process.

When choosing polystyrene foam and other polymer-based materials, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the slabs and determine the density

1. Foam sheets

Insulator slabs (expanded polystyrene) during installation.

Polystyrene foam is a low-cost method of insulating a loggia, but it is considered a fairly fragile material, so lathing is required for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam; its installation does not require the creation of a special frame.

2. Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam boards (50 mm thick) are used as insulation. The seams between the elements are sealed with polyurethane foam. Penoplex is attached using special disc-shaped dowels (“fungi”).

3. Penofol

The material is used as a separate heat insulator; foam polystyrene foam can also be used to provide vapor barrier. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and retained in the room.

In order to speed up the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).

4. Polyurethane foam

PPU is one of the most modern heat insulators. The cost of application services is considered high compared to other analogues, but many have managed to evaluate the performance properties of polyurethane foam. This insulation is characterized by high thermal insulation rates due to its fine-porous structure.

How to seal joints?

Some craftsmen incorrectly glue films and membranes for vapor barriers from the inside and outside. So they start to move away. To prevent this from happening, single-sided or double-sided self-adhesive tape is best. It is made from butyl rubber, propylene, butylene and foam or regular polyethylene.

Typically, manufacturers indicate in the instructions for such vapor barrier products which tape is suitable. You should not use office tape for this purpose. It has a short service life and does not provide 100% tightness when sealing joints.

Sealing the loggia

Sometimes it happens that after waterproofing work is completed, water still enters the room. There may be several reasons:

  • cracks in window frames;
  • gaps between the supporting structure and frames;
  • large gaps at the junctions of the walls and the slab forming the ceiling;
  • large gaps between the ceiling and the canopy.

Glazing leaks are eliminated using strips (self-adhesive parts).

Rice. 7. PVC corner.

To eliminate all other cracks, various sealants are used, mainly silicone-based. These substances are distinguished by their versatility and high sealing properties. Gaps at joints can also be sealed with polyurethane-based mastic.

Sealing an open loggia

The open structure is forced to withstand all the surprises that the climate brings. If there is no drain on the bottom slab, the fence is partial, there is no floor slope, then moisture inevitably accumulates, which can even destroy concrete. Sealing seams and gaps as a preventive measure is required even if water is not leaking anywhere yet.

The sealant in an open space must be elastic, durable, and resistant to atmospheric influences. All joints and parts must be processed

On the top floors, the roof requires special attention. If polyurethane foam is used, then after drying it should also be covered with a thin layer of sealing mixture

All joints and parts must be processed.

Rice. 8. Sealing of seams.

Sealing a closed loggia

If the space is glazed and insulated, this does not mean that atmospheric water does not flow anywhere. Additional finishing of ebbs, slopes, and seams is still required. The polyurethane foam used in the glazing process is not resistant to ultraviolet rays, so it must be covered with a layer of sealing mixture from the inside and outside. The weak point is considered to be the joints between the screen and the metal or wooden parapet under the window frame.

The parapet also needs to be finished with an elastic, durable, environmentally resistant substance.

Rice. 8. Sealing the loggia inside.

Only in this case the design will be reliable and durable.

Sealing the loggia

The measures listed above will only be effective if the preparatory work is carried out correctly. Before treating joints, surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned with a wire brush or sandpaper. Fungus and mold are removed using disinfectants. There should not even be dust on the ceiling, floor and walls. Treatment should only be carried out on dry surfaces. The sealing mixtures are applied with a spatula. A sealing cord is placed in the wide recesses. Even the highest quality glazing is not able to provide good thermal insulation without measures to seal seams and cracks.

If insulation is planned, the sequence of actions is clearly visible in the video:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=YKO00flP1tA

Methods of securing material

To securely fasten anti-condensation agents, nails with a large head are used. They will help to fix the film well on the surface of the insulation. A construction stapler will also securely fasten the film or membrane. Experts recommend fixing the vapor barrier with counter-straps. This option will firmly hold the anti-condensation layer on the surface.

Many home craftsmen who have never encountered the installation of vapor barrier materials think that the tension of such products must be very strong. They believe that this will reduce material consumption and ensure its evenness. Experts say you shouldn't do this. Even with the slightest temperature changes, waterproofing films and membranes begin to shrink.

The material used to protect against moisture penetration onto the balcony may tear or crack. This will happen if you do not leave the necessary reserves. To ensure that the condition of the waterproofing remains normal, make sure that it sags at a level of 2 cm.

Primer for ready-mix waterproofing

Each waterproofing requires its own type of primer. For waterproofing from a dry cement mixture diluted with water, different primers may be required (read the instructions carefully). Sometimes this is a deep penetration primer, and in other cases you can simply moisten the surface with plenty of water.

This is important so that the waterproofing layers do not dry out.

Acrylic or rubber bases - as a rule, require deep penetration primer to prevent the ingress of dust (both construction and street). Liquid waterproofing must be applied to a good tacky surface. Some manufacturers require that the surface be treated with a primer that is designed specifically for this type of waterproofing.

Bitumen bases – primer is strictly required! Very liquid soil of this composition is often sold in ready-made form in hardware stores. However, finding such a primer is quite difficult. In order to make it yourself, you can buy a minimum amount of bitumen waterproofing (mainly based on kerasin or its derivatives), dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:10 or 1:7. The result should be a liquid that penetrates well into all pores. The substance will visually resemble highly diluted coffee (light brown tint).

It is necessary to note that sometimes there are bitumen-rubber mastics (also water-based). The instructions will indicate which primer needs to be used - deep penetration, water, or prepare it yourself

Installation stages

Reminder for those who do vapor barrier

Waterproofing should be laid according to the following scheme:

  1. The film or membrane for insulation from moisture must be overlapped. Its approximate size is about 15 cm.
  2. The clamping strip is screwed at the joint to the frame, or the overlapping seam is sealed with vapor barrier tape. These actions are necessary to ensure air permeability of the joints.
  3. Lathing or slats guarantee the stability of the vapor barrier film. You can cover the places where the staples are attached with adhesive tape. This material should not be allowed to hang freely.
  4. Clearance for movement is required. It should be located at the joints between structures.

If even small holes or gaps remain, they must be sealed with waterproofing tape. When using foamed polyethylene, it is laid end-to-end. Gluing them will help ensure tightness around window sills, window frames and door jambs. Metallized or self-adhesive tape is suitable for this purpose. It is not recommended to use regular office tape. It has a short service life and will come off the walls over time.

Introduction

Insulating a balcony allows you to expand the boundaries of living space in an apartment in a multi-storey building. An insulated balcony can become a closed veranda, a personal office, or a bedroom for a child. With significant capital investments, the remote structure can be strengthened with supports, expanded, thermally insulated and heating (heating) of the internal space can be organized. Balcony insulation is carried out only after glazing and sealing by sealing existing cracks or holes.

We install the internal wooden frame of the balcony

How to properly insulate a balcony? What technological features are important to consider when installing insulation material? Let's consider the sequence of actions performed to insulate an external external structure.

Protection of the facade from moisture penetration

Expanded polystyrene can absorb a small amount of moisture. Water from the street can penetrate into it to a depth of 5 mm. Over time, this insulation will begin to chip and peel off after freezing. This situation can happen even if the walls have metal, plastic or plywood cladding.

To prevent evaporation from penetrating deep into the foam, the outer surface must be covered with film. If the walls of the loggia facing the street are lined with corrugated sheets or metal, then you cannot do without waterproofing.

Balcony room decoration

Goals for creating interior decoration:

  • External masking of the heat insulator;
  • Organization of a favorable indoor environment.

To create a balcony interior, you can choose various finishing options. Plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, gypsum board sheets and even a block house are perfect for the finishing layer.

Lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed to a wooden frame-crate.

The walls of the loggia are covered with clapboard, the flooring is laminate.

Facing the balcony with a block house.

The plastic panels have grooves for connecting elements. The plastic version of the lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.

Installation of gypsum board sheets on metal profiles. Plasterboard slabs can be decorated with wallpaper, painted, or covered with decorative plaster.

Decorating walls with wallpaper over gypsum board sheets.

Bamboo wallpaper. The base for finishing is plasterboard.

Film stretching

By definition, it seems that the tension of the vapor barrier material on the balcony should be maximum - for ideal evenness and saving consumables. And this is a wrong opinion. After all, temperature fluctuations affect the condition of the film - it shrinks. If there is no supply, the insulation may crack and tear. But there shouldn’t be any sagging. Allowable fluctuations are no more than two centimeters.

Video about the rules for installing vapor barriers:

The impermeability of membranes requires provision of ventilation gaps between the finishing material and the insulation. Free condensate will be discharged through this gap. If the balcony has the correct vapor barrier, it can be used comfortably all year round.

You can do without a vapor barrier. Then lay any type of porous insulation on the surface of the balcony: basalt fiber slabs (up to 150 mm thick) or aerated concrete. Installing a heavy-duty heater will help avoid high humidity. But it is still more practical to line the outer surfaces with a protective membrane that will conduct vapors in one direction.

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