The roof of a house is often compared to an umbrella: its main purpose is protection from rain and other types of atmospheric moisture. But there is one significant difference, because liquid flows like a solid wall from the umbrella in all directions at once, but from the roof of a modern house - only in a few specially designated places. The whole secret is in the drainage system!
And there are a lot of subtleties here, because it is important that the entire system not only works, but also does not require constant attention due to breakdowns. Therefore, in this article we will tell you all the secrets: how to make ebbs on the roof with your own hands so that everything in them is thought out to the smallest detail!
Structural elements of the external drainage system
When designing a drainage system, the following design elements must be taken into account:
Elements of external drainage.
- Gutters. They are the main element of the drainage system. Must be strong enough, because... not only serve to drain rainwater, but also retain large volumes of snow in winter.
- Pipes. The water coming through the gutters is discharged into special receivers or sewers.
- Funnels. They are used to collect water from gutters and supply it to pipes.
- Plugs. They are installed at the ends of gutters and serve to protect against water overflow during heavy rainfalls.
- Mounting brackets. They fix the gutters in the desired position and give the structure stability.
- Rotations of gutters and pipe bends. Necessary for directing water flows in the right direction.
- Sealing gaskets and rubber rings. Provide a hermetically sealed connection between the gutters.
- Connecting couplings and clamps. They are used to secure pipes together and fasten them to the walls of the building.
Heating cable in a drainage system
Ice and snow inside the drainage system create a blockage (plugs) that prevent melted water from draining. As a result, it overflows over the edges of the trays, forming icicles. Everyone knows how dangerous they are. In addition, a large amount of ice and snow inside the trays means there is a high probability of collapse of the entire structure or deformation of its elements. To prevent this from happening, a heating cable is installed in the drain. It is a conductor of electric current that releases thermal energy.
Heating cable inside the gutter of the drainage system Source rooms-styling.com
The heating cable is installed after installing the roof drain. It is simply laid inside the gutters (along) and lowered inside the pipe risers. It is secured in trays with special clamps made either of stainless steel, or galvanized, or plastic.
In addition to the cable itself, the kit includes a power supply and a thermostat. The first supplies the current of the required voltage and strength, the second regulates the temperature of the cable depending on weather conditions. For example, if the temperature outside is -5C, then the cable does not heat up much. If the temperature drops below, the current inside the conductor increases, which increases heat transfer. This is what the thermostat controls.
It should be added that the thermostat itself does not determine the temperature. To do this, sensors are added to the system: either temperature or humidity.
Most often, the heating cable is installed not only inside trays and pipes. They cover part of the roof, or rather the overhang area. Here the conductor is laid in a snake pattern and secured to the roofing material with special clamps. This is clearly visible in the photo below. It should be noted that the heating cable both inside the drain and on the overhang is a single system with one power supply and thermostat.
Heating cable on the roof overhang Source tiu.ru
Roof flashing parameters
Installing ebb linings on the roof is the last stage of work; before that, you first need to select and buy them.
Materials
At the moment, buying roof flashings is not a problem; choosing them is more difficult. I’ll tell you about prices later, but now let’s briefly go through the materials.
What are roof drains made of?
Photo
Materials
Cink Steel
The thickness of the sheet here does not exceed 1 mm, so the design is quite light, plus the price of drainage is quite reasonable.
Polymer coated steel
Here the steel sheet is coated with plastisol, polyester and other similar polymers. The stability of such a coating is an order of magnitude higher than that of conventional galvanization.
Aluminum
The main advantage of aluminum gutters is their light weight, plus this metal is not subject to corrosion, so it does not require painting.
Copper
Manufacturers provide a guarantee of 70 years for copper roof gutters, but they last much longer.
Copper is not afraid of aggressive chemicals, corrosion and other troubles, the only problem is that the price of such structures is several times higher than the cost of plastic or galvanized drainage systems.
Plastic
Now every third developer chooses plastic molding. The design is light, elegant, plus modern polymers do not fade in the sun.
Envious people say that plastic gutters are fragile, but if you choose a proper manufacturer and install the roof flashings correctly, they will last for decades.
Gutter shape
The shape of roof drains can be semicircular, rectangular or shaped. Strictly rectangular gutters, frankly speaking, are not for everyone. Their figured counterparts look original, but are much more expensive.
Semicircular types of gutters are considered the most convenient, practical and popular. Their advantage is that such structures do not have internal corners where dirt and debris constantly collect, and cleaning the roof gutter without special equipment is very problematic with your own hands.
As practice shows, semicircular roof flashings are the best option
Gutter calculation
To calculate the amount of material, you need the length of the perimeter and the square of the projection of the roof onto the ground (the square of the area under the house). According to the instructions, the length of one gutter directed into one funnel should not exceed 10 m, but in reality it is better to start from 5, maximum 7 m.
On long spans of roofing, the gutters are cut from the center to the sides, where drain funnels are installed at the corners. The arrangement of funnels and cutting points of straight roof spans depends on the configuration of the structure.
Installation of the drip tide is planned at the rate of 5 - 7 m of straight gutter per 1 drain funnel
- After measuring the roof perimeter, you need to add 10 - 15% to the total footage; they will be used for trimming and overlap at the joining points.
- If possible, a funnel should be installed at each corner of the roof.
- On average, support brackets are installed at 600 mm intervals.
When calculating the width of the gutter, this is the case. According to the rules, for every square meter of the roof plane there is 1.5 mm of width. That is, a 150 mm gutter is installed on a roof of 100 m². But in reality, professionals usually make it simpler.
- On the roofs of residential buildings with a roof area of up to 100 m², a gutter 100 mm wide is installed.
- For a square area of up to 120 m², the gutter width is taken to be 120 mm.
- For a square area of up to 150 m², the gutter width is taken to be 150 mm.
As for drainpipes, brackets and other accessories, stores usually come with it all included. You tell the width of the gutter and they select the entire system for you. When selecting fittings, it is advisable to choose pipes with a large diameter, this way there is less chance of clogging.
Metal roof drains can have several fitting options
Price issues
No matter how beautiful the roof flashings are, their price depends on 2 things. Firstly, brand awareness, and secondly, the price level in the region. I have calculated the average cost of roof drainage; you can use it as a guide, but you should not make final calculations.
Average price of roof casting
Material
Price per 1 m (Russian rubles)
Rectangular gutters
Separately, it is worth highlighting gutters with rectangular gutters and pipes.
This is a curiosity on the Russian market; there are not many such drains now. But, for example, in the USA, the vast majority of drainage systems are rectangular in shape.
Several reasons to choose a rectangular drain:
- A form suitable for strict building styles and materials with strict, straight lines. For example, barnhouses.
- Loads tested. Due to its shape, a rectangular pipe will be able to withstand the pressure from the ice inside, when a round one can simply break at the lock.
- Throughput is on average 60% higher. The area of a rectangle is larger than the area of a circle, so a rectangular drainage system can withstand greater pressure from the elements.
Vortex from Grand Line has another, in our opinion, very significant advantage - there is a version made of steel with a matte finish, which continues to gain popularity.
At the same time, Vortex Matt has a very affordable price
How to make drains with your own hands
Zinc drain
Without inviting a specialist, drainage is easy to do yourself and quite inexpensive. In their manufacture, plastic, aluminum or galvanized sheet metal are most often used.
The simplest thing is to cut lengthwise a thin-walled metal pipe with a diameter of about 150 mm. The result will be: two gutters for collecting water. To prevent corrosion, it is recommended to coat these parts with special compounds or varnish of the desired color.
The last stage of work will be the direct installation of gutters using fastening material in places where moisture accumulates.
The production of ebb and flow from galvanized steel sheets is not particularly difficult. For this you will need: a sheet of galvanized metal seven millimeters thick, a machine for bending metal structures. This can be done without a machine with a hammer and mallet, using a corner or a piece of rail, but the appearance of the drain will be poor.
The galvanized sheet is cut into strips of the required width and corresponding sheet length. The strip is then placed in a machine where a cast is made from it. The finished elements are coated with a protective compound, dried and prepared for installation.
Calculation of materials for roof drainage
The required cross-sectional area of the groove can be established using SP 17.13330.2011. The document states that per square meter of roofing area there should be 1.5 cm² of gutter cross-section. Any competent installation of roof tides is also accompanied by a calculation of the average annual precipitation in the region. The procedure makes it possible to determine the cross-section of drainpipes in accordance with the recommendations of SP 32.13330.2012. It remains to determine their diameter in accordance with the instructions of SP 30.13330.
Some manufacturers provide their own tables for selecting an effective drainage system. Having decided on the standard size of the drainage system, all that remains is to select the elements of the kit. For example, on a straight wall for a riser you will need:
- Funnel groove.
- One elbow for lower outlet.
- Two elbows for connecting the pipe to the wall.
- One fastening for the funnel assembly and two for each pipe.
To get around the protrusions on the wall, you will need 4 more elbows and 2 pipes for connection. The ends of the gutter must be closed with plugs. The segments are arranged in such a way as to obtain a minimum of waste. Based on the number of joints, the number of connecting elements with seals is calculated.
Each gutter component is fixed with brackets at the ends with a 150mm offset. Along the remaining length, the fastenings are distributed at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other, which corresponds to the pitch of the rafters. To install a 3-meter gutter, you need 6 brackets with a pitch of 500 mm.
Sequence of installation of the drainage system
The first step is to install the gutters. They are attached to brackets, which are attached either to the first two boards of the sheathing, or to the rafters, or to the front board. The best option is the first one. But it can only be carried out if the roofing material has not yet been installed on the rafter system. If the roof is already covered, then the brackets use short hooks with fastening to the front board.
Installing brackets on the frontal board Source krovelson.ru
Attaching brackets to sheathing
For this purpose, brackets with a long leg are used. It is simply bent back to the required length, applied to the sheathing and secured to it with self-tapping screws through the holes made.
Bracket with a long leg Source www.braersnab.ru
It is important to strictly adhere to two parameters during installation:
- distances between fasteners;
- distance from the middle of the hook to the edge of the roof overhang.
The last parameter should vary in the range of 30-40 mm. This is done so that the water coming off the roof gets into the middle of the gutter. To avoid overflowing over the edges of the trays and splashing water.
Important! When installing gutter fasteners, it is important to use anodized “yellow” rather than “black” screws (Pz 5*40 yellow zinc screw), because The “yellows” have more resistance to breakaway.
The calculation of these self-tapping screws is as follows:
- long hook – 3 pcs/mount
- short hook – 4 pcs/mount
Installation and fastening of brackets to the sheathing Source grandline.ru
Attaching to rafter legs
If the roofing material has already been laid, then one of the options for attaching the brackets is to the rafters. For this, the same fasteners with a long leg are used, only they have it rotated 90°. This way it is simply more convenient to carry out the fastening.
Bracket with leg rotated 90° Source profiroof.com
Fastening to the front board
One of the top photos already shows how to attach the gutter brackets to the front board. For this, short hooks are used, but with a platform in which mounting holes are made.
It should be noted that today manufacturers offer various models, which mainly differ from each other in the method of fastening. The photo below shows an option where the fastening element is a bar with a full-length groove. It is attached to the front board, and the brackets themselves are inserted into the grooves.
Mounting plate with brackets for gutters Source oookifa.com
Other options
If it is not possible to install the brackets according to the options described above, then you can attach them to the roof overhang. For this purpose, brackets with a long leg are used, which bends to the required angle and length. The photo below shows this installation option.
Attachment to roof eaves sheathing Source ms.decorexpro.com
See also: Catalog of companies that specialize in roof repair and design.
How to calculate the diameter of ebb tides
In order to correctly install ebbs on the roof, it is necessary to correctly calculate its dimensions, since ebbs of insufficient depth and width may not cope with the function assigned to it.
The following values are used for calculations:
- distance between drainage outlets and gutter turning points;
- roof area.
To determine the area of the roof, it is conditionally divided into elements in the form of geometric shapes (rectangles, triangles, etc.) and the area of each of them is calculated. Then the results obtained are summarized.
On each slope it is necessary to install two gutters with a slope towards the pipe intended for drainage. The diameter of the gutter can be 100 or 125 millimeters; it is selected based on the intensity of the expected load on the drainage system. If the building is small, you can install gutters of a smaller diameter.
Preparation for installation on the roof, necessary tools
Before starting work on installing roof ebbs, you must prepare all the necessary materials and tools.
The need for materials (parts) is determined as follows:
- The number of gutters is determined by the length of the slopes or the perimeter of the house, taking into account that the standard gutter length is 3 m. The number of pipes is similarly calculated based on the number of drain points and the height of the house. The standard pipe length is 3 m.
- The number of funnels is determined on the basis that they are installed at least every 10 m (usually 5–7 m).
- End caps - 2 for each slope.
- The number of connectors is calculated by the number of joints for a gutter length of 3 m.
- Brackets are installed every 60 cm. Their number is determined from this condition.
In addition, you will need two elbows for each drainpipe, as well as seals, sealant and waterproof paint.
In addition to materials, you should take care of the tools in advance. To install ebb tides you will need:
- hammer drill for installing brackets on the wall for pipes;
- electric drill;
- screwdriver;
- hacksaw and metal scissors;
- file;
- pliers;
- hammer and mallet;
- paint brush;
- building level;
- roulette;
- metal ruler;
- plumb line;
- square;
- marker;
- leg-split.
Materials
Due to the constant impact of unfavorable environmental factors (precipitation, temperature changes, sun, wind), the correct choice of ebb material is extremely important.
Modern tides are made from different materials.
Cink Steel
. For the manufacture of castings, steel is used in sheets up to 1 mm thick. For additional protection against corrosion and to add aesthetics to the structure, a coating of polyester, pural or plastisol is used.
Aluminum
. The thickness of the original sheets is 0.8-1 mm. To protect against corrosion, a special multi-colored varnish is used, which also improves the appearance of the tides.
Copper
. Can be used both without treatment and with oxidation or brass plating. It is considered the most beautiful, high-quality and durable material for making castings. It has a significant disadvantage - a high price.
Polymers
. Due to their low cost, increased strength, noiselessness, ultraviolet resistance and durability, polyester and plastisol have become widespread in the manufacture of castings. Due to their light weight and ease of installation, it is quite possible to install roof ebbs.
Stages of installation of drip tides
Installing a low tide is considered a fairly simple process, but it, in turn, requires responsibility and care so that in the end the result suits not only you, but also everyone living in the house.
Preparation
First you need to prepare all the consumables and tools so that the installation process does not stop for a moment. You will need the following consumables and items:
- Brackets (special fastenings);
- Pipe according to the height of the house;
- Connecting inserts;
- Self-tapping screws that are suitable for fixing the material used;
- Clamps for fastening the pipe to the walls of the house;
- Funnel;
- Gutter
First you need to prepare the tools for work:
At the initial stage, you need to prepare the place where water drains from the roof. Draining the water should not harm the greenery growing in the yard, the foundation of the house, or the paving slabs. If sewerage is already installed on your site, then this problem in itself is eliminated.
Lane marking
Installation must be carried out from the marking of the strip where the low tide will be recorded. First, a water intake funnel is installed, so a transverse line is designated for it. The holders are installed at a distance of 15 centimeters from the edges of the funnel, on both sides.
The vertical line drawn from the edge of the roof must fall closer to the wall of the building, and not to the very center of the gutter; this must be taken into account when installing holders and funnels.
This design helps water not pass through the edge during heavy rainfall. To do this, you also need to give the gutter a certain slope angle.
Marking the line for fastening the holders and tilting the gutter
Take a long board and a building level, and use them to draw a “zero” line along the bottom edge of the holder all the way to the fastening area of the last holder.
You will need to calculate the difference between the mounting height of the final and installed holders. This distance is multiplied by three. The bracket must be secured, taking into account all the calculations made. This line is marked using a tracing cord. The holders are installed at a distance, this distance is approximately half a meter. First, markings are made for all the holders and only then are they fastened.
Installation of gutters along the length
Parts of the gutter must be installed in the holders so that there are spaces for connecting inserts directly between the holders. Correctly installed sections are secured with inserts that have boundary marks. The distance between the edges of the gutters should be 7-12 cm.
The assembled gutter is placed in the holders, and the inclination is checked using water. Even a large amount of liquid must pass easily through the chute; if this does not happen, it means that the system needs to be rearranged again.
Installation of a drainpipe
If there are no damages or deficiencies, then you can begin installing the drainpipe, which is installed from the funnel itself. You can secure the pipe using an elbow, this will depend on the distance to the wall
It is important to pre-prepare the required number of pipes and all fastening elements so as not to interrupt installation at its final stage
Properly installed drip linings will give your home an attractive appearance and protect your home from the negative effects of moisture.
But even roof flashings made from the highest quality materials require constant care. It consists of periodically cleaning the gutters from dirt and debris. This is especially true with the arrival of cold weather, since if there is water in them, then when it freezes it can damage the entire system. Constant maintenance of drainage systems will protect not only the structure itself, but also the walls of the house.
Roof flashings
Gutter installation process
We have prepared for you a whole series of step-by-step illustrations and master classes so that you can understand all the details of installing water drains for a gable roof.
Step 1. Determining the inclination and mounting the mount
In total, during the installation process you will need two types of fastening:
There are also several ways to secure the hooks, not only taking into account the slope:
Using a hook bender, bend the gutter fasteners at the desired angle and attach them to the front board in the desired order, starting from the corner. Make sure that the distance between the brackets is the same, from 50 to 60 cm. This distance is named for a reason: this way you will not encounter such a problem as sagging gutters and disruption of ebb tides by strong winds or a cap of snow.
Now let's move on to the gutter design. If it consists of several elements, collect them on the ground. Next follow these instructions:
- Step 1. Now mark the position for the future drain funnel, and install gutter holders on both sides, at a distance of 15 cm from the edge.
- Step 2. Install the gutter holders as far as possible from the drain funnel, taking into account the gutter slope of 0.3%.
- Step 3. Now install intermediate holders on the front board, between which there should be no more than 60 cm.
- Step 4. Mark the locations of the corners and gutter couplings. Install the gutter into the holders.
- Step 5: Insert the gutter tab into the front flange of the gutter, then rotate the gutter back until you hear a click.
- Step 6: Cut the gutter to the desired length with a hacksaw.
- Step 7. Secure the gutter into the holders. Apply a thin layer of sliding agent to the gutter fittings.
- Step 8. Now install the drain funnel and place its rear edge on the rear flange of the gutter.
- Step 9. Connect the gutter sections using couplings. Make sure that the distance of the holder to the edge of the coupling does not exceed 15 cm.
- Step 10: Secure the corners to the gutter, insert the rear gutter flange into the corner flange, and snap the front gutter flange into the corner end flange.
After that, move on to the stubs. Place left and right.
And now about the difficulties. If you do not have the opportunity to place a drainpipe directly above the funnel, but the distance is small, up to 10 cm from the center of the funnel to the center of the pipe, then the easiest way is to assemble the indentation. To do this, put an outlet with one socket on the drain pipe of the funnel, and put a two-socket outlet on its smooth end.
If the distance between centers is more than 10 cm, then the indentation will have to be assembled from three elements. To do this, place the two-bell elbow on the drain pipe of the funnel, insert a piece of pipe into it, and then put the two-bell elbow on it.
Step 2. Preparation and installation of the gutter
Install the gutter so that it is 1 cm below the conditional roof line, and water from the drip can flow directly into the central third of the gutter. To set the gutter level, use plumb bobs. In the place where the drainpipe will be attached to the gutter, you need to attach a funnel, make markings and do the necessary:
The easiest way to cut a hole for a metal drain is to use a drill bit. To work with plastic gutter, you will need a metal saw, hacksaw or fine-tooth saw. Clean the edges of the cut with sandpaper or a file. Don’t forget to bend the edges of the hole outward so that the funnel is then more securely connected to the gutter:
Here's a good practical example of how to do all this with a plastic drain:
Step 3. Connecting gutters in different ways
Before gluing plastic gutters, the edges of the edges must be cleaned of burrs and treated with a cleaning agent. This is necessary in order to degrease the plastic. Only after this glue is applied to the inside of the funnel.
Most modern gutters are no longer assembled with glue, but with a special lock:
And this is how the installation of a metal drain occurs:
To connect several downpipes, you will need couplings. When installing, their slotted sockets should face down. In this case, a 1 cm gap is left between the stop of the coupling bell and the edge of the pipe. In addition, a mounting bracket is placed under each of the couplings.
And today they are developing drainage systems that do not allow the increased flow of water to overflow. This is ensured by a specially designed gutter shape with particular rigidity.
It has additional stiffening ribs along its entire length, which direct the flow of water, increase resistance to deformation and prevent the sticking of leaves clogging the drain. Many modern roof drainage systems are made with EPDM rubber seals. These seal all elements of the system and do not interfere with the linear expansion of the gutters.
Install the funnel, bend its edges and secure the plug:
Of course, the more funnels and risers there are in your drainage system, the more reliable it will be, but at the same time, more expensive.
Step 4. Installation of vertical elements
Install the vertical drainage system at a distance of 25 cm from the ground and 15 cm from the blind area. You need to attach pipe holders to the wall in the following way: one holder for each meter, so that it is at the junction of two pipes.
Attach dowels to the facade of a length that is sufficient for the thickness of the building's thermal insulation. Screw the clamp fastenings into the dowels at a maximum distance of 1.8-2 m.
Place the drainpipes in the clamps and connect them using a coupling. Tighten the clamps, but do not pinch the pipe. Lead the lower end of the pipe into a universal sump, for which cut a hole that will be equal to the diameter of the drainpipe.
To bypass any protruding elements of the building or simply change the direction of flow through the pipes, you will need elbows of 135°, angles of 90°/135° and 90−150°.
This is what these clamps look like in real life:
When attaching pipes to walls made of different materials, there are specific features. So, pipes must be secured into a brick wall with universal clamps with a screw with an expansion dowel, which has a length of 100, 160 or 220 mm - here everything depends on whether there is insulation in the wall or not.
But to secure the pipes to a metal or wooden wall, you will need staples with a foot. Each of these brackets should be attached to the wall using special screws for metal or wood.
If you are going to drain water from the roof directly into the storm sewer system, then install an inspection with a special grate to collect dirt on the lower part of the pipe. A good alternative would be a universal rain inlet, which will protect against leakage of unpleasant odors and low temperatures. Then there is no need to put a grate in the drain, because... there will already be a built-in removable tray for collecting leaves and branches.
By the way, you can refuse vertical drainpipes altogether! Today it is becoming fashionable to use chains instead of drains, as in Japan. They are simply hooked onto the gutter and hang down. With the proper approach, such chains turn into a real decoration for your home and garden.
Chains are just a conditional name. In fact, on Japanese gutters such chains have a complex spatial shape with decorative bowls and other elements. If you like this design, make sure that the chains are securely connected to the base and gutter, while being so tight that they do not move from side to side.
Types of roof flashings
Roof flashings can be made of various materials - plastic, metals (galvanized steel, copper). They have different shapes. The purpose of ebb tides is to collect water from the roof and drain it into the drainage system using special devices. This drainage element must have such characteristics as: increased strength, resistance to loads and mechanical stress, the presence of an anti-corrosion coating, and an attractive appearance.
The galvanized steel casting has a thickness of no more than 1 millimeter. Such products are additionally coated with polyester, pural, and plastisol. If the steel does not have such a coating, the house will not be very comfortable to live in: the sound of raindrops is greatly enhanced.
The aluminum casting has a thickness of 0.8-1 millimeters. To protect against corrosion, it is coated with varnish on all sides. To improve the appearance of the product, varnishes of various colors can be used.
Copper castings are subjected to brass plating or oxidation. Elements made of this metal are durable and have an attractive appearance. They will last a long time, but their cost is quite high.
What are residential building tides?
The organization of water drainage from the roof of a residential building directly depends on the shape of the roof and
A house without organized water drainage: is this realistic?
Perhaps you have ever had the idea that it is possible to do without any gutters at all - didn’t they do without them in Rus' before? Yes, not only that, I still practice this approach today!
For example, if a house is built strictly in a certain style, and the drainpipes on it cannot be hidden or adjusted to the chosen exterior design in any way. In this case, builders do everything to ensure that rainwater does not harm the building in any way.
To do this, the roof is built so that it has a wide canopy and protrudes beyond the front of the wall by at least half a meter. Next, vertical insulation is laid on the foundation walls, and the foundation itself is a high base made of non-moisture-intensive materials, such as ceramic tiles or stone.
The second step is to make a vertical layout of the area so that there is a noticeable slope from the house under your feet - this way the water will flow freely from the roof and immediately move away from the foundation of the house.
Flashings of a standard gable roof
Standard flashings for a gable roof consist of the following elements:
In those places where the water flow will be under high pressure (most often under the valley), a limiter is also placed on the gutter or corner of the gutter.
Organization of water drainage from a flat roof
But on the roof of a flat house, the ebb tides look a little different:
In order to organize the drainage of water from a flat roof, it is first equipped with a parapet with a height of 30 to 90 cm, which also serves as a fence. Next, a drain is installed, in most cases internal.
Internal drainage is considered more reliable, because... such a system is almost not exposed to atmospheric influences. Install water intake funnels only on low areas of the roof, which is quite logical. If your roof is up to 150 m2, then install two funnels: a standard one with a riser and an emergency one, which will remove water through the parapet.
But it is extremely important that your flat roof drip system always works properly. And for this, such a system must be passable, i.e. protected from being blocked by leaves in autumn and snow in winter. For this purpose, a basket is attached to the crimp ring or flange on the funnel and heating cables are laid. And at the bottom of the pipe an inspection is installed for cleaning and control. The water itself flows through the internal drain into the main collector.
Design and purpose of drainage
The drainage system is a combination of main and auxiliary components of the structure. The main ones include gutters, funnels and pipes, and the auxiliary ones include plugs and fasteners.
Based on placement, a distinction is made between internal and external drainage systems. Internal is used for buildings with a flat roof. In this case, the roofing material is laid with an inclination towards the funnel. Water flowing down the roof is collected in a funnel, then enters a pipe located in the wall of the building or in a technical channel.
External drainage system is used for pitched roofs. All structural elements are installed on the outside of the building.
The main purpose of drainage is to drain melt and rainwater from the roof of a building to a designated place.
If there are no ebb tides, water falling from the roof will destroy the concrete blind area or paving slabs around the building.
The accumulation of excess water in the soil around the house will lead to flooding of the basement and basement floors. Absorbing into the soil, the water will wash away the foundation of the house. As a result, it will begin to sag and cracks will appear on the walls. The operation of such a building will become unsafe.
Requirements for installing do-it-yourself drainage systems
High-quality installation requires compliance with certain rules:
- In order for the ebb tides to function effectively, it is necessary to have an inclination in the direction of the water intake funnels and pipes. It is made at the rate of 1-3 centimeters per linear meter.
- The cross-sectional size of the gutter is determined based on the size of the slopes. If the roof has a surface of about 90 square meters, use flashings having an 8-centimeter diameter. The larger the area of the slopes, the larger this parameter should be for the gutter.
- The ebbs are mounted below the edge of the overhang at least 3 centimeters so that they are not torn off when the snow masses melt off the slopes.
- Vertically laid drainpipes, which serve to move water from ebb tides to storm sewer elements, are placed at intervals of 5–6 meters. If the house has a complex configuration, they are made at each corner of the roof.
- To prevent drops flying from the gutter from getting under the roofing material, a drip tray is installed.
- To know how many meters of low tide you need to purchase, calculate the perimeter of the building and add 10 - 15% for trimming and observing overlaps at the joining points of the elements.
- When choosing a gutter, take into account how to attach the ebbs according to the technology. You should select funnels, brackets and pipes, which should be made of similar material.
Materials for low tides
The drainage system consists of a set of standard products. Before making a choice of a particular material, you need to familiarize yourself with the parameters of this system.
Correctly determine how well the unified elements fit the facade of the house. The main elements of the drainage system are gutters and pipes.
The video below shows the design of a roof drainage system.
Today there are various types of these products on the market for free sale. The kit necessarily includes brackets, plugs, clamps and other elements.
When planning to install ebb tides yourself, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the parameters of the products that are offered for sale.
Galvanized castings
Until recently, galvanized steel was widely used for the manufacture of moldings.
The main advantage of products of this type is their low price.
The destruction of zinc coating occurs under the influence of acid rain, which has become increasingly frequent in recent decades.
Aluminum ebbs
Aluminum products have a longer service life.
You can make them yourself or buy them ready-made and paint them in a color suitable for a particular building.
The gutters are secured using rivets or aluminum glue.
Sealing the joints can be done with silicone or a special paste.
Copper casts
Copper tides are considered the most durable.
The products are made from pure metal and do not have additional coatings.
The elements are connected to each other by soldering or folding.
Installation of copper gutters must be done in such a way as to avoid contact with other metals - copper or steel.
PVC sills
Today, plastic products are most widespread.
To install such systems, couplings, latches with rubber seals and special glue are used.
Plastic castings are not subject to corrosion and retain their characteristics even with maximum temperature changes.
Specifics of drainage construction
Gutters made from polyvinyl chloride elements are structurally not much different from metal predecessors and prototypes. Kits produced by industry include similar parts from which horizontal and vertical branches of systems are mounted. Assembly and installation are carried out in an equal number of steps and in a similar sequence.
However, in the manufacture and installation of drainage “constructors” from PVC, the specific properties of products with a polymer base are strictly taken into account. This is a characteristic dimensional instability that manifests itself when the temperature background changes. Plastic parts are capable of increasing in a linear direction when heated and returning to their previous geometric boundaries when cooled.
A drain designed for outdoor use will naturally be cooled in the winter and heated in the hot summer. Following temperature fluctuations, it will lengthen and then shorten. It is difficult and unnecessary to interfere with the linear movements inherent in polymers. You just have to adapt to them. Those. take into account the specified qualities when designing and assembling the system.
For the construction of PVC drainage circuits, special compensating and connecting parts are produced. They allow the main elements of the system to lengthen and shorten without deformation or damage for the number of cycles promised by the manufacturer. Their design takes into account the possibility of some movement and subsequent return to the original place.
In addition to the described feature, polymer products have another important quality that must be taken into account when attaching a PVC drain to the roof. This is a tendency to deform and sag in long sections that do not have supports.
To ensure that fairly flexible plastic gutters do not sag, the installation step of the holders under them cannot exceed 60 cm. Otherwise, the horizontal sections between the brackets will begin to sag under the weight of precipitation and from their own weight. Dirt will accumulate in the deflections and water will begin to stagnate, which in case of frost can simply tear the polymer gutter.
Types of tides
Low tides can be made from absolutely any materials, as well as in any forms. The main task of this design is to collect water from the roof surface and then transport it to the drainage or sewer system.
Differences between casts by material:
- Flashings made of galvanized steel. The thickness of this structure does not exceed one millimeter. For these ebbs, a coating using plastisol or polyester is provided, this is done in order to muffle the noise of falling raindrops, otherwise the steel surface will only amplify this sound;
- Aluminum castings. The thickness of this structure is also about one millimeter. Aluminum castings are treated with a special varnish on both sides in order to protect the product from possible corrosion;
- Raw copper is also a material for making castings. These structures are additionally processed with an alloy of zinc and copper. They are characterized by an attractive appearance and high quality, although the price of ebb tides can be very high for some consumers.
- Moldings made of plastisol and polyester have high durability and strength. In addition, they are characterized by resistance to ultraviolet rays and low weight. Due to these characteristics, they are very popular today. Also pleasing is the convenient installation of products, which you can do yourself;
- Plastic ebbs will help highlight the individuality of your home, offering a huge range of colors for the construction. These products do not require special care and are not afraid of temperature changes. The enormous popularity of plastic sills is also explained by the fact that they create almost no noise when it rains and have an affordable price.
Factors that influence the choice of tide
All roof flashings must perform the following functions:
- high resistance to external factors, including precipitation and sudden temperature changes;
- an aesthetic function that provides a beautiful appearance to your home;
- protection of the roof and walls from moisture.
The choice of tide depends precisely on the absence or presence of these basic characteristics. Each of the above materials has its own special advantages, but some of them are more pronounced, others are not so visible.
At the moment, preference is given to ebbs made of plastic and metal. Such products are coated with a special layer that protects them from corrosion. The quality of the product depends significantly on the grade of steel and its thickness.
Castings made from non-ferrous metals are also popular due to their high quality, attractive appearance and durability. But their price is an order of magnitude higher than conventional products, so they are available only to those people who are willing to allocate the necessary (considerable) amount of money for the installation of this system.
Plastic casts
These ebbs will serve perfectly if the attic of the house is used as a living room.
The main advantages of installing plastic ebbs include:
- Ease of use and speed of installation are achieved due to the light weight of the product;
- Affordable price;
- The size of the ebb is equal to the length of the perimeter of the structure;
- A convenient connection method is a clamp lock;
- Corrosion resistance;
- Several types of material - polyethylene and PVC;
- Resistance to temperature changes and weather conditions;
- Plastic ebbs are varied in color and design, this makes it possible to choose the desired option specifically for your home project.
It should be noted that ebbs made from polyvinyl chloride are a little more reliable, this is due to their heat resistance. But they still cannot withstand low temperatures. Also, during installation, a pipe with a cross-section of at least 45 mm will be required as an addition.
Calculation of the required drainage diameter
Before starting work on installing the ebb, you need to make calculations of its dimensions, otherwise you risk building a structure that will not perform its main functions.
The roof area can be calculated according to this principle: the area is equal to the length of the roof, including the height of the roof plus the length of the slope, this value is divided in half.
It is necessary to take into account the distances between drainage systems and between the turning points of the gutter. Gutters must be located above the drainage system.
For each roof slope, it is necessary to consider installing two gutters; the diameter of one structure should be no more than 125 millimeters.
