Inserting hinges: how to embed them into an interior door manually, as well as how to work with a template and a router

Attaching individual hardware elements (handles, eyes) to the canvas only affects ease of use and its appearance. If the insertion of door hinges is done incorrectly, then the consequences of errors and omissions will be the most negative. A loose fit of the sash to the frame, difficulties with opening/closing it, creaks, discrepancies between the lock tongue and the bar on the block - and this is not all the troubles that will be the consequences of improper installation of awnings.

Recommended Procedure

In order for the process of inserting loops to go without complications, you need to establish a procedure and follow it.

Masters advise to act according to the following plan:

Prepare materials and tools.
Decide on the direction of opening the door and the presence of suitable hinges.
Make the correct markings. First - on the door leaf, retreating 20 cm from the top and bottom.
Attach a loop and trace along the contour. Cut with a sharp knife and make a cut with a router or chisel and hammer.
Place the hinge card into the recess and secure with self-tapping screws.
Applying the canvas to the vertical beam, make markings on it, taking into account the upper gap of 3 mm.
Make a selection for the hinges on the box in the same way.
Deepen the hinges and secure with self-tapping screws.

Inventory

The preparatory process is very important. It is necessary not only to purchase the selected hinges, but also to prepare hardware and related tools:

Hammer;
Chisel;
Screwdriver Set;
Screwdriver;
Drill;
Drill;
Self-tapping screws;
Construction pencil;
Level.

Before installing the hinges, it is worth deciding whether the fittings will be inserted or whether the fittings will be attached to the interior door using an overhead method. It is also important to take care of markings and measurements. If you carry out this procedure approximately, you may later discover that the door leaf is not hanging evenly.

If you choose the insertion method, you may also need a hand router and wedges for spacers.

Features of working with different types

Installation differs depending on the type of fittings. Types of mortise hinges :

detachable;
universal.

Detachable hinges are easier to install, since the two parts are installed separately, after which the door is hung. This type is used when you have to frequently remove the interior door, for example, when moving furniture. Divided into left and right. When purchasing them, you must take this point into account. Detachable hinges require clear markings, without the slightest errors.

It is more difficult to install a universal hinge, since the hinge is fixed to the box after the second part is secured to the canvas. Therefore, the door must be held in weight or use stops. This type is one-piece. If you need to remove the door, you will have to unscrew the hinge.

According to the installation method, mortise hinges also include hidden hinges. It can be difficult for a non-professional to install them, because the body with a hinge is placed inside the canvas. Using a router, a deep seat is made. Installation requires extreme precision.

Card loops

They come in two designs, and these are the easiest hinges to install.

Invoices

Their halves differ in size and configuration. When the door is closed, they are simply recessed into one another. When installing them, no wood sampling is done; The parts are fastened directly to the end of the leaf and the jamb. The gap between them is sufficient so that the hinges of this group do not interfere with the door in any position.

Recommendations for installing hinges on doors found in individual articles, which say that canopies of this type are attached without drilling, should be treated with skepticism. The length of the leg of the hardware is quite long (otherwise strength is not ensured), and even if the blade is made of soft material (plastic, MDF, wood), it is quite difficult to screw it in exactly in the given direction.

Direct

This type of card loops must be “recessed”, by analogy with mortise awnings. And the technology is the same - wood sampling and fixation.

Corner

The difference from overhead loops is only in the shape of the “petals”. And the method of attaching them is absolutely the same.

Hidden

These door hinges are more difficult to install than others. The point is not in the features of the technology, but in the extreme accuracy of marking and selection of base material. In addition, you will need an electric tool if you think about the quality of the fastening.

The procedure is as follows:

Marking areas for installation of canopy components.
Arrangement of “windows” for mechanism elements, but only by milling; no other tool will provide accuracy.
Using a chisel, a sample is made to slightly “sink” the parts of the canopy.
Drilling holes for fasteners.
Disassembling the hinge (the manufacturer's instructions indicate how this is done in relation to a specific product).
Fixing the halves in place. The larger part is installed on the jamb, the smaller part on the sash.
Hanging the fabric, connecting the hinge parts and fastening them with a tightening screw.

There are other types of canopies on sale, but the term “inset” does not apply to them - they are attached somewhat differently.

The technology for inserting loops is not particularly complex. But taking into account the cost of doors, it is advisable, before starting to work with them, to practice on some kind of workpiece (board, beam). And if you are not confident in your abilities, then you should contact a specialist. Paying for his services will be much cheaper than restoring a door or purchasing a new one to replace a damaged one.

Tools for insertion and how to work with them

To insert hinges into an interior door, the following tools are required::

sharpened pencil;
ruler, square, tape measure;
sharp knife;
chisel;
hammer;
level;
door leaf holders and stops;
screwdriver or set of screwdrivers;
awl;
drill.

Professionals prefer to use templates and a milling machine. This equipment makes the work easier, and the result is an even selection for the loop map.

Many masters use Pavel Soldatov's template . The procedure for setting it up:

The template insert is placed over the hinge with the required gap between the door leaf and the cylinder.
The stepped notch determines at what mark the first setting on the template should be set.
Find a similar stepped recess on the left side of the template. The lower green edge of the template is shifted to the same level of the stepped notch as the mark on the insert. The position is fixed using a thumbwheel.
The same is done with the stepped recess on the right side of the template, setting the desired step mark. Fixed with a lamb. This sets the depth of the loop.
Determine the distance from the top edge of the canvas. The standard is 20 cm. The template insert is placed in the slot. It is fixed with magnets on the template. It is impossible to make a mistake with the location, because... one of the corners of the insert is beveled.
The right stop is moved until a special flag rests against the insert on the side of the inner slot. The position of the stop is secured by a side wing. The distance from the top edge of the flag to the edge of the moved stop is exactly 20 cm.
The template with the fixed right stop is moved to the top of the canvas. Fix with a clamp.
From the flag to the stop of the copy sleeve 4 mm. For a milling machine, it is required to install a guide bushing with a diameter difference with the cutter of 8 mm. For example, a cutter is 12 mm, a sleeve is 20 mm. The difference is 8 mm (4 mm on both sides).
The hinge map may differ slightly from the stated size (be, for example, 99 mm instead of 100 mm). The template provides the ability to insert a loop of actual size. A loop is placed in the slot of the template insert. If it is smaller than the slot, the left stop moves in its direction and is fixed. Simultaneously with the stop, the edge to which the copy sleeve will be adjacent is shifted. After making sure that the loop fits in without play, the left side of the template is also secured with a clamp.
Place a router on top of the template until the cutter rests on the blade. Fix the machine. Adjust the depth to the thickness of the metal of the card loop by placing it between the stop and adjusting screws.
A hose from a vacuum cleaner is connected to the plastic dust extractor and milling begins.

A plunge router is used to cut the hinges.

If you don't have a template, you can do without it. In this case, the location of the loops is marked, outlined with a sharp pencil and cut with a knife.

It is preferable to use a small router bit, in which case you will need to cut less material by hand in the corners of the recess.
Progress :

The depth is set. To do this, a loop is applied to the base of the router, and the cutter extends to the thickness of the metal. There is a lever on the body for adjustment.
The parallel stop is installed. The milling cutter is applied to the door in such a way that the cutter is placed on the contour of the hinge. The stop is pressed against the edge of the canvas and secured with wings.
A test sample is made inside the loop contour to check that the depth is set correctly. If necessary, adjust the immersion depth.
The upper and then the lower edges of the loop are sampled, after which the excess material between them is removed. In this case, the stop will not allow the cutter to go further than the side line. As for the ends, you need to be careful not to go over the edges. It is recommended to leave a margin, which can then be adjusted with a chisel.
Using a chisel or knife, give the rounded corners a straight shape and trim the ends. The card should fit into the resulting recess with little effort.

After installing the card on the canvas, move on to the box. The location of the loops is transferred to it. To do this, the canvas is combined with a loop beam, taking into account the upper gap of 3 mm. A mark is made. Having attached a loop to it, circle it around the perimeter and cut it with a knife. If the stand is flat, without a protrusion, then there will be no difficulties when working with a router. The sampling is done in the same way as on the canvas.

If there is a protrusion (thrust quarter) on the hinge beam, then it will interfere with the operation of the router ; the sole will lie on the plane with only one side. In this case, some wizards offer the following method:

The timber with markings for the loop is placed on the floor.
The same beam is applied parallel to it at a short distance.
Between them, pieces of slats are laid in such a way that the sole of the machine rests well on both beams and has support.
The entire structure is fixed with mounting tape on both sides so that the posts do not move apart during operation of the router.
Set the immersion depth of the cutter equal to the thickness of the card + the size of the protrusion on the stands.
A recess is cut.
Use a chisel and hammer to smooth out the edges and corners.

Adjustment

So, let's look at how to adjust card hinges on an interior or metal door? If the structure is loose, it is necessary to tighten the screws. Modern products have a mechanism in their design that is adjusted using a hex key and allows you to tighten the door to the required level.

Now let's look at how to adjust hidden door hinges. This can only be done in the open position. You must first remove the decorative trims, then tighten the screw using a hex key. Thanks to the design features, the door position can be adjusted in three planes.

Inserting door hinges is a rather troublesome task, but nevertheless quite simple to do it yourself. By following our recommendations, each of you will be able to properly secure and adjust any type of door hinge.

Marking

The location of the upper and lower hinges is marked on the door leaf.
To do this, use a tape measure or ruler to measure 20 cm from the top and bottom edges. To avoid mistakes, craftsmen draw an arrow indicating where the loop will be directed from the mark. The arrows are directed towards the center of the door end. Place the loop map against the mark and trace its outline with a sharpened pencil. The hinge part must not touch the door leaf.

It is not recommended to simply measure the length and width of the card and draw a rectangle with this data on the end, since the card may not have a strictly rectangular shape - it may be beveled or trapezoidal.

The loop will fit perfectly into the groove made along the contour. In order not to confuse the loops during installation, they are signed with a marker B (top) and H (bottom).

Selection of canopies based on material of manufacture

Depending on the material, loops are divided into three types:

Steel - considered the most reliable and durable. In their pure form they are not very attractive; chrome-plated models look more aesthetically pleasing.
Brass - beautiful to look at, but less durable due to the plasticity of the material. Can be polished or chrome plated.
Brass plated - made of zinc or steel alloys, with a layer of brass on top, often additionally coated with enamel or compounds that imitate noble metals.

Inset

The hinges are cut in stages:

Use a sharp knife to cut the outline. If the coating is laminate, then it is removed with a chisel inside the cut out contour. It turns out to be a small step. Then, when working with a chisel, the tool will not come off; it will be buried and rest against the step.
If veneer is glued, then it is carefully removed from the area under the hinge. If you do not cut through it first, then when working with a chisel, you can unwittingly damage the veneer in adjacent areas and accidentally tear it off.
In order to find out the depth of the future groove, place the loop card sideways to the end and draw a line with a pencil, noting the thickness. It is to the thickness of the metal that the recess will need to be made.
The chisel is placed against the edge of the recess, resting it on the “step”. In this case, the short side of the working part is directed towards the material being produced. By hitting with a hammer, the material is sampled to the required depth.
After making the sample, attach a map and use an awl to mark the locations of the screws. In this case, the center is slightly shifted in the direction opposite to the loop cylinder. Later, the screw with its head will move the loop towards this edge and the loop will fit most tightly.
Use a thin drill to drill holes for the screws. It is not recommended to screw them directly into the door, as the door leaf may split.
When placing a hinge in a gap, many craftsmen advise not to bury the card flush, but to leave a protrusion of the card of about 0.5 mm. This is done so that the door can be adjusted during installation by recessing the hinge a little deeper and leveling the gaps.

Basic dimensions of butterfly loops

Overhead butterfly hinges are considered economy-class products, and each manufacturer focuses on the general public when supplying them to the market. In this regard, according to international standards, such products are divided into 2 basic categories:

Hinge hangers designed for mounting doors weighing up to 30 kg - dimensions 100 x 75 x 2.5 mm.
If the weight of the door panel exceeds the specified values and reaches 40–50 kg, then for such structures it is recommended to purchase reinforced hangers with dimensions of 125 x 75 x 2.5 mm. These products are characterized by the presence of a larger number of holes and an expanded contact area, which significantly increases their load-bearing capacity.

Butterfly hinges with dimensions 125 x 75 x 2.5 mm

It should be noted that many companies resort to some simple tricks. If the consumer sees that hinges of the same brand have different dimensions, but at the same time, the same number of holes are marked on them, there is no need to overpay for a large size.

Installation

Having screwed one part of the hinge to the door leaf with self-tapping screws, proceed to inserting the other part into the hinge beam. Different masters carry out this stage in different ways.

First way . Mark the location of the hinge on the box until it is inserted into the opening. To do this, place it on the floor, place the door leaf inside and, taking into account the upper gap of 3 mm, mark the location of the hinges.
Second way . When the box is inserted into the opening, the door is placed against it, placing stops underneath. Align to the desired height, taking into account the upper gap, and mark the loops in this position.
Third way. Although experienced craftsmen do not shift the loops from the originally made marks during the insertion process, they still measure the location of the cards embedded in the canvas just in case.
Then marks are made on the loop beam for the upper edges of the second parts of the loops. In this case, 3 mm is added to the obtained values for the upper gap. In this case, marks are placed at a distance of 20.3 cm and 170.3 cm, respectively.
Draw arrows indicating in which direction from the mark to embed the loop. Both arrows will point down, as the top edges of the loops are marked.
Then the second parts of the loops are cut in according to the same pattern.
This method is convenient when the master works alone and there is no one to help him hold the canvas for method number 2.

Interior door weight

This is one of the basic characteristics, taking into account which the fittings are selected. It is clear that overhead models made of aluminum alloy will not cope with heavy glass sheets, so they cannot be attached, and powerful hidden ones will make opening and closing a light plastic sash quite difficult.

The most common materials for interior doors are as follows.

Plastic is an option for the office. Budget-friendly, lightweight, but not too durable. It will require the simplest light fittings.

The panel door is a wooden frame lined with MDF sheets. The weight is minimal, the strength is low, the appearance is much more presentable. You can hang overhead and mortise fittings.
Chipboard - a canvas made from a whole sheet - has quite decent strength. So you can install any fittings that are suitable in weight.
MDF - an interior door made from MDF sheet weighs noticeably more, is stronger, more durable, is not afraid of water, and has a very aesthetic appearance. Fittings can be mounted of any kind - forged overhead models, hidden, mortise, etc. It may be necessary to install more than 2 elements for larger sizes.
Solid wood canvas is the most elegant and expensive option. The heaviest - here you will probably need not 2, but more elements.

Common mistakes

Incorrect determination of the door opening/closing direction. This is an important initial stage that needs to be treated with great care.
If you mix up the parts of the detachable hinge, the part with the rod will be at the bottom and the door will not be able to hold on.
Marking on the hinge beam without taking into account the upper gap. If you do not provide a gap of 3 mm and measure 20 cm from the top of the counter, then the door will rub against the top bar and close with difficulty.
A too tight fit of the hinge cylinder to the door leaf leads to poor closing of the door.
Screwing in self-tapping screws without first drilling a hole for them. In this case, the canvas may crack and split.
Installing the loop and fixing it with self-tapping screws at the location of the knot. You cannot screw screws into a knot, because the wood in this place may crack. If a knot is found on the canvas, then the loop is slightly moved to a safe place.

If you follow the recommendations and pay attention to possible mistakes, even a novice master can install a mortise hinge.