Home / Installation, repair, maintenance / Features of installing drywall with foam adhesive
You can make the walls smoother using various methods, and one of the most popular is the installation of gypsum sheets. In this case, the gypsum board will perform two functions at once - the plane will become much smoother and at the same time it will be possible to lay communications behind the assembled structure. At the same time, it is not at all necessary to install a complex frame; you can simply glue the drywall like glue, using polyurethane foam. There are subtleties here, which we will discuss further.
Characteristics
Adhesive foam for polystyrene foam is a polyurethane-based composition, ideal for attaching slabs for exterior and interior decoration of a house. This adhesive material is characterized by an increased degree of adhesion, water resistance and excellent thermal insulation properties.
In addition, the adhesive foam for polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) does not contain freons, which ensures its environmental friendliness and harmlessness to humans.
Advantages:
- one cylinder is enough for 10-12 square meters of area;
- there is no need to stir or dilute the composition with water, it is already ready for use;
- the foam is easy to apply, and excess is removed extremely simply;
- the glue hardly expands;
- the composition hardens in a few hours;
- Provides high-quality, reliable and durable fastening.
A conventional cementitious mixture requires effort when installing polystyrene foam boards and it hardens for at least 24 hours, which significantly slows down the finishing work.
Disadvantages of foam adhesive:
- high price;
- Application must be done using a special gun or tools.
Not all manufacturers make high-quality products, so you should choose adhesive foam from well-known brands with a good reputation.
Manufacturers of adhesive foam
The best adhesive compositions with exceptional characteristics are produced by manufacturers in France and Germany. In second place in terms of quality are products of Polish, Turkish and Estonian brands.
Domestic glue can be quite good, but sometimes there are downright low-quality products.
Advice! You should not purchase glue made in China, since such compounds are not durable and are often toxic.
The best foam adhesive for attaching polystyrene foam boards:
- TechnoNIKOL;
- Macroflex 65;
- Tytan Styro 753.
TechnoNIKOL
At the moment, two types of adhesive foam are produced under the Technonikol brand:
- 500 PROFESSIONAL universal,
- polyurethane for expanded polystyrene.
500 PROFESSIONAL is universally waterproof and mold resistant. It has excellent adhesion properties to silicates, brick, concrete, all types of plasters, wooden surfaces, ceramic tiles and chipboards.
The adhesive is used for fastening slabs of various insulation materials (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene), filling voids and cavities, sealing, gluing false stucco, baseboards and other elements.
The setting time of the composition is 10 minutes, final hardening occurs within 24 hours, the density of the glue after hardening is 25 g per cubic centimeter (the structure does not become heavier), thermal conductivity is 0.035 W/mK.
After interaction with atmospheric oxygen, the composition acquires a soft blue color. It is allowed to work with glue at ambient temperatures from 0 to +35° C.
Polyurethane for expanded polystyrene contains polyurethane, which, after interacting with atmospheric oxygen, increases in volume by a maximum of 10% with the release of isobutane gas.
The adhesive is designed specifically for fastening polystyrene foam boards, but is also suitable for other thermal insulators of synthetic origin, for example, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam.
The composition is used for fixing finishing elements inside and outside buildings, insulating joints, foundations, basements, floors and walls, gluing polystyrene foam boards, sealing joints and seams.
After setting, the adhesive foam almost does not expand, is resistant to moisture and the appearance of mold, perfectly fills gaps and joints, and has increased adhesion to concrete and other surfaces. Setting time is 10-15 minutes. Cannot be used at temperatures below 0°C.
Both types contain isocyanate oligomers, which release isobutane and propane under the influence of atmospheric oxygen. Available in cylinders of 400, 750, 1000 ml. They are characterized by moisture resistance, good adhesive properties, and are used for exterior and interior decoration.
Purpose and scope of application of foam Makroflex 750 ml
The foam container is already ready for use, so you can use it immediately after purchase. The main essence of its action is expansion and filling the entire space after application. Moreover, it can be used on any surface, since Macroflex Pro has excellent adhesion to all materials, even if they are wet. Of course, the foam yield will depend on general environmental indicators - temperature, humidity, as well as the total volume of space filled.
The most common actions for which the mounting tool is used:
- Filling voids during construction, sealing any gaps during repairs;
- Increasing the level of noise insulation;
- Sealing joints between pipes and filling around the pipe space;
- Installation and subsequent insulation of doorways, frames and window sills, wall panels;
- Installation of roofing materials, which includes not only their joints, but also insulation.
The most successful surfaces for adhesion of Macroflex Pro foam are concrete, stone, metal and wood. However, it exhibits its properties perfectly with plastic as well as glass. The most important thing is that there is no ice on the surface, since even humidity will not be an obstacle for the sealant to demonstrate its best qualities.
In some cases, the mounting foam "Macroflex 750 ml" technical characteristics will be indispensable in everyday life, especially if repair work is planned on both a large and small scale. For example, when replacing old wooden frames with plastic windows, which is popular today, one cannot do without using just such a hermetic material. An excellent option would be to use Macroflex when sealing cracks in the walls, if any are found under the old coating.
Polyurethane foam is often used as insulation due to its impermeability. For example, it is used to insulate doorways at the entrance to a house or apartment. Due to its expansion, the foam perfectly fills all the space provided for it, provided that the appropriate environmental parameters are present (temperature, humidity, etc.).
Macroflex
Makroflex MF 901 adhesive foam is a universal one-component high-quality composition used for quick connection of structures and different materials. Used for external and internal work.
"Macroflex" is an ideal option for gluing metal, ceramic, wood, stone, glass products, as well as MDF, PVC, plasterboard, plexiglass, cork, plaster.
Suitable for fixing polystyrene foam to stone, concrete, wood, brick, ceramic surfaces, even if they are uneven or vertical. The composition is resistant to vibration and low temperatures, adverse environmental factors, and chemical compounds. When hardened, it does not burn, is elastic, and sets quickly.
Tytan Styro 753
Tytan Styro 753 is a professional polyurethane composition in 750 ml cylinders.
Used for fastening polystyrene foam boards when installing thermal insulation of roofs, facades, and also indoors. Has excellent adhesion to foam plastic and mineral wool. As well as plaster, wood, cement, concrete, brick, metal surfaces.
One can is enough to cover 10 square meters of surface. The material does not shrink or expand again, it is convenient to use and store.
It has excellent resistance to aging, high humidity and mold. It does not lose its properties at temperatures from –60 to +100° C. Expanded polystyrene slabs can be secured with anchors within two hours after gluing, which significantly speeds up the work.
What is polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam?
Polystyrene foam, which is actively used in construction, is made by treating raw materials placed in a special mold with water vapor. Due to this effect, the molecules increase in volume and sinter with each other. Over time, under the influence of environmental factors, the connection between them becomes weaker, and the material is destroyed. The foam does not differ in strength, since the interaction of the granules is very weak.
Foam plastic used as insulation allows water vapor coming from inside the premises to pass through, they form condensation, which causes an increase in the humidity of the material. As a result, the thermal insulation characteristics of the foam deteriorate, and after some time it collapses.
Expanded polystyrene is a type of polystyrene foam; it consists of closed cells filled with gas molecules, so that no substances from the environment can penetrate into the material. Typically, natural gas, which is highly soluble in styrene, is used to fill the cells. When releasing fire-resistant polystyrene foam, the granules are filled with carbon dioxide.
Why does penoplex need polyurethane sealant?
In the process of laying insulation, polyurethane foam for Penoplex boards is required, which is used to process the gaps formed during the creation of the heat-saving structure. Based on the fact that the answer to the question: “Which mounting foam is suitable for Penoplex?” is contained in the manufacturer’s recommendations, then when purchasing a “mounter” in a store, you should once again check whether toluene is listed as one of the ingredients. Such a frequent mention of this chemical substance, which is a colorless liquid with a characteristic odor, is due to the fact that installing penoplex with such foam will inevitably lead to its destruction, and this will require additional costs for the purchase of new insulation boards.
The excellent compatibility of penoplex and polyurethane foam allows you to eliminate all the gaps that arise as a result of cutting insulation boards. The joint along the L-shaped edge does not require the use of “installation”, but is sealed with the most ordinary tape.
Gluing Penoplex insulation boards with polyurethane foam is a very real thing. But this case is rather an exception to the rule, since the cost of such installation work will increase tenfold. It is optimal to use special adhesive mixtures or, judging by consumer reviews, to use Insta-Stik polyurethane adhesive.
For high-quality sealing of joints, the combination of Titanium polyurethane foam and Penoplex has proven itself to be effective, which makes it possible to create a reliable thermal insulation layer that will provide thermal protection and sound insulation of the room for a long time. Selena Co. products SA has built a reputation among the masses for its reliability, efficiency and quality. Installation products in aerosol packaging under the Tytan trademark demonstrate the following advantages when used:
excellent adhesion (setting) with various building materials; high level of heat and sound insulation; high accuracy and efficiency (with minimal use skills); resistance to moisture and mold microorganisms; short hardening time, which allows you to start processing the filling site no later than an hour; environmental Safety.
Useful tips
There are several details to consider when purchasing foam adhesive:
- Good quality glue cannot be liquid. You can check this indicator in large construction stores, as they have special “testers”. Squeeze out a little solution and evaluate the consistency.
- With a cylinder volume of approximately 800 ml, a consumption of approximately 125 ml per 1 square meter is considered normal. The density of the composition causes its increased consumption during work, so this indicator must be taken into account when choosing.
- Resistance to low temperatures allows you to work with foam glue in the cold; the conditions of use must be listed on the label. Such compositions are usually resistant to high temperatures.
- Take a closer look at the components contained in the glue. There should be no impurities of carbon dioxide and freon. It is good if the composition contains isocyanate oligomers.
- The glue setting time should be 10-15 minutes.
- The lowest degree of adhesion relative to a concrete surface should be 0.3 MPa, regarding foam plastic boards - at least 0.8 MPa.
Air circulation between the wall and the thermal insulation is unacceptable, since in this case there will be no effect from the work performed. The foam or polystyrene boards must fit snugly against the wall. The simplest and fastest way to fix the insulation is to use foam adhesive.
Korovin Sergey Dmitrievich
Master of Architecture, graduated from Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.
After the plastic windows are installed, it is necessary to carry out finishing work, which involves the installation of external and internal slopes. There are several ways to install them: you can attach them to a pre-installed frame or glue the slopes to the windows using various adhesives.
Types of materials
Work can be performed using the following materials:
- Drywall. For production, GVLV brand slabs are used - this is a moisture-resistant plasterboard. Installation can be carried out in several ways: mounted on glue, putty, polyurethane foam, or mounted on a frame structure;
For the installation of slopes, moisture-resistant plasterboard and plastic panels are used. They have a pleasant glossy surface that harmonizes with the profile of the PVC window. Fastening can also be carried out by fixing it with glue, foam or using modern material - liquid plastic ;
Plastic panels MDF panels. They are not used very often for the manufacture of slopes due to the fact that it is not easy to choose the appropriate appearance of the panels so that they are combined with the profile material;
The use of MDF when constructing slopes is rarely used. Sandwich panels. They are used to install insulated surfaces of window niches;
Mounting method on polyurethane foam
You can glue the slopes to the windows using polyurethane foam. This is a universal material with a high degree of adhesion. How to glue plasterboard slopes in this way is shown below.
- On the window opening, the width and depth are measured from above. On the sides, the height is measured twice - at the window and at the wall;
At the side openings, the external and internal heights are measured. In accordance with the obtained dimensions, details are drawn on a sheet of drywall;
Marking the part Using a construction knife, cut out the necessary parts;
Cutting parts The polyurethane foam is applied to the slope, the plasterboard part is pressed for a few seconds, then it is separated from the wall and wait until the foam expands again . Then the part is put back and fixed in the required position. In this case, you can use self-tapping screws, which are removed after the polyurethane foam has dried;
The part is glued using polyurethane foam. Metal corners with perforations are installed on the plasterboard corners;
The corners of the slopes are covered with perforated corners. The corners are finished with putty and left until completely dry;
Finishing corners with putty At the final stage, the surface is painted.
Slope painting
Method No. 1
For this method you will need:
- screws;
- self-tapping screws;
- plastic plugs;
- foam;
- polyurethane foam;
- a little glue;
- drill or hammer drill .
Attach the sheet to the wall . Drill it at 7 – 9 points evenly. Remove the sheet, then drill more holes at the marks for the plugs. Insert the plugs .
Glue pieces of foam rubber onto the sheet from the inside of the drywall at a distance of 10 cm from the holes. Foam rubber will play the role of a spring , which will adjust the level. Place the finished sheet against the wall and secure it with screws. first put washers on the screws , so the foam will not push the head into the sheet.
Make holes 2-3 cm from the screws. them with polyurethane foam . Please note that the foam will expand. The contact patch between the foam and the wall should be up to 10-15 cm. Therefore, examine in advance how much foam flows out when you press the button. Then you will not be able to see this, because all processes will take place behind the sheet outside of your field of vision. Foam must be pumped into each of the holes.
If you still decide to use polyurethane foam, then try this installation method on the first sheet. Firstly, this way you can “fill” your hand. Secondly, the first sheet is easier to control since you can peek into the assembly. After gluing one sheet, do not continue working. Wait one day. The next day after gluing, the foam will dry, expand, and you will be able to evaluate the results of your labors. You will also be able to clearly see your own mistakes and, if possible, correct them.
After the glue or polyurethane foam has dried, you need to sand all the seams and holes . For these purposes, use regular putty.
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Why should you choose plastic products?
Plastic is the most common and versatile material.
Plastic slopes are most often installed
This is due to its performance characteristics and ease of installation. The advantages of plastic slopes include:
- Easy to care for the surface - just wipe the plastic with a cloth and soapy water;
- High-quality plastic does not fade when exposed to sunlight;
- Plastic looks best combined with the profile surface of plastic windows;
- The service life of these products is calculated in decades;
- For plastic slopes, when insulating them, you can use mineral wool. In this case, heat loss through the window structure is reduced and the effect of window fogging is eliminated;
- The moisture resistance of the plastic is obvious, so it does not collapse under the influence of condensation;
- Simple installation - the parts just need to be treated with adhesive and fixed to the surface of the base.
Installation
Plastic slopes can be glued in the traditional way - on polyurethane foam.
This installation has some differences from that used for plasterboard slopes. At the initial stage, a starting profile is installed around the entire perimeter of the window opening . In order for the connection to have sufficient tightness, when attaching the profile, its back side is covered with a thin layer of silicone sealant;
First, the starting profile is fixed. Parts are cut out of sheet plastic 8 mm thick. The window is measured in the same way as when installing plasterboard parts;
A plastic part is cut to size. A frame made of bars is installed around the perimeter of the window;
A wooden block is installed around the perimeter of the window. A starting profile is attached to the wooden frame;
The starting profile is fixed to the wooden frame. The resulting parts are inserted into the U-shaped starting profile. First, a layer of polyurethane foam is applied in a wave-like manner to the entire plane of the base, thus completely filling the space between the block and the frame;
The gap between the block and the frame is foamed. The plastic elements are fixed with masking tape while drying.
After installing the slopes while the foam dries, they are fixed with tape
Insulation methods
After choosing the material, the question arises of how to insulate a wall with plasterboard with your own hands. In home practice, two methods are used:
Frameless method
A common insulation option. No metal or wood frame needed. It is used for insulating small, flat surfaces: interior walls of apartments in panel houses, basements, garages; balconies and loggias.
Let's consider the sequence of actions for insulation:
- Preparing the wall for pasting with penoplex. For the frameless method, you need a flat surface, without strong potholes. Let's start work on covering the walls with plasterboard and insulation by removing wallpaper, plaster, and paint. If you need to cover an unplastered brick wall, then knock down all the protruding masonry mortar. A loose base of old plaster can be treated with concrete contact. This will strengthen him. We fill potholes and cracks with cement-sand mortar. We mix it on the spot or buy it ready-made in bags.
- Installation of penoplex. For this we use Penoplex-35, which has all the necessary properties. The standard sheet size is 600×1200 mm, thickness is 20 – 100 mm. As glue we use special compounds that can be bought in the store. In extreme cases, tile adhesive will do. Before gluing, treat the surface of the sheet with a stiff brush. This will increase the coefficient of adhesion between the wall and the insulation. Apply the glue in a thin layer over the entire area using a grooved spatula. We start pasting from the bottom corner. First, apply the sheet, press a little, hold for a few seconds. Then we release. We treat the joint seams with silicone glue. If their width is more than 5 mm, then we seal them with polyurethane foam. Additionally, you can secure the insulation with plastic dowels. The number of attachment points is 3–4 per 1 m2.
- Installation of drywall. We use dry glue mixed with water. Apply it with a notched trowel to the entire surface or in strips. It hardens within 24 hours. Drywall with insulation can be separated by a layer of vapor barrier. The best option is penosol. Its shiny surface reflects heat from the interior. No condensation forms. One “but”: drywall cannot be glued to penosol. First you need to mount the frame.
- Finishing. Tape the seams between the sheets with masking tape. Then we putty, paint or wallpaper the wall.
Frame method
Insulating the wall with penoplex and covering it with plasterboard along the frame are relevant for large, uneven walls.
- Surface preparation. It does not need to be cleaned, small potholes do not need to be covered. If necessary, pre-spread the wiring.
- Frame installation. It comes in metal and wood. Metal profiles are popular among consumers. Its size depends on the thickness of the insulation. First we install the lower guides, then the upper ones. We fasten them to the wall and ceiling using self-tapping dowels 40 - 50 mm in increments of 2 - 3 pcs. by 1 m p. Then we install vertical racks. First we insert them into the guide profile. Then we screw it to the wall using hangers. Mounting on hangers levels out all the unevenness of the wall. The installation step of the vertical posts depends on the size of the insulation sheet. In our case it is 600 mm. A wooden frame for insulating walls from the inside with plasterboard is mounted according to the same rules as a metal frame. We treat wooden beams with an antiseptic. This will avoid rotting, the formation of fungus and mold.
- Installation of insulation. We treat one side of the foam sheet with a wire brush to improve adhesion to the wall. Using a notched trowel, apply glue to the sheet. Then we insert it into the gap between the vertical posts, press and hold for several seconds. Then we release. The glue will dry in about 24 hours. We seal the seams with silicone sealant. If they are wide, then we use polyurethane foam. The metal profile is a cold bridge. We fill the profile cavities with pieces of insulation or foam to avoid freezing.
- Installation of plasterboard sheets. We apply each sheet to a metal profile or wooden beam. Then we fasten it with self-tapping screws measuring 20 - 25 mm. A layer of vapor barrier can be glued between the outer skin and the insulation.
- Finishing. We putty the finished surface, paint it, and cover it with wallpaper.
The proposed technologies will help to insulate the wall and cover it with plasterboard. The main thing is to follow the rules and not violate the technology of work.
What is liquid plastic
Liquid plastic has recently appeared on the construction market. It has found application in many areas, including the installation of plastic slopes.
Liquid plastic is used for gluing plastic slopes
Liquid plastic is a type of modern sealant that can be used as glue when attaching plastic slopes. The content of liquid PVC in its base gives this material many positive qualities.
Mode of application
Using this glue, you can guarantee strong adhesion between the material and the surface.
Using liquid plastic when processing joints and seams, you can be sure that it will never turn yellow, as happens with silicone analogues. This ensures a neat appearance of the window opening.
When temperature changes indoors, plastic panels secured with silicone may lose their joint tightness. And the panels, placed on glue in the form of liquid plastic, will stay in place for many years.
When working with this material, it is important to consider that it hardens in one minute . This is the interval during which it is necessary to apply it and distribute it over the surface. You need to work quickly and efficiently the first time.
Pros and cons of Macroflex foam
Macroflex foam is a one-component composition that is completely ready for use; it does not need to be mixed or diluted. Thanks to the packaging in the form of a tube, the foam is very convenient to apply - all you need to do is purchase a suitable mounting gun.
To work, you don’t have to carry heavy bags, buy expensive tools and equipment, waste electricity, water, or stir up dust and dirt. The absence of the need to mix mortar seriously reduces time costs and helps carry out construction and repairs much faster.
Other properties and advantages of the composition are as follows:
- high strength of any joints (no less than standard cement mortars);
- the ability to replace dry building mixtures in many situations;
- effective joining of homogeneous and dissimilar building materials;
- suitability for working with both horizontal and vertical surfaces indoors and outdoors;
- reliable sealing and insulation of seams from moisture and minimization of heat loss;
- short time until complete hardening;
- ability to withstand heat and freezing;
- the ability to carry out work at sub-zero temperatures;
- control of foam consumption thanks to a special packaging design;
- absence of chlorofluorocarbon propellants in the composition;
- low price and low cost of work.
Foam-cement "Macroflex" effectively glues, seals, seals cracks, strengthens and provides moisture, sound, and thermal insulation of structures, so it can be called a universal building material.
Despite the impressive list of advantages, foam also has disadvantages. “Macroflex” is a composition that, after hardening, is prone to shrinkage. However, due to the strong expansion after setting, most often such shrinkage remains unnoticeable.
Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, the foam gradually collapses, but this disadvantage can be smoothed out by protecting its top layer with mortars, putties, and sealants. "Macroflex" cannot be used for installing load-bearing walls - the composition is only suitable for lighter structures.
Preparing the base
Before gluing polystyrene foam boards, it is necessary to carefully prepare the base.
This is a mandatory condition, since the durability of the thermal insulation largely depends on the accuracy and thoroughness of the preparatory work. This allows you to avoid possible situations in which the slabs could come off, destroying the insulation and the facade itself.
If polystyrene foam boards will be attached to the old base, you need to make sure that it is strong. Also, must be clean, dry, free of moss, lichen, etc. If foam is being bonded to new surfaces, remember that any render or concrete must be completely cured and dry.
Sometimes insulation boards can be very smooth. Therefore, it is best to carry out an adhesion test on a small area first. If it is insufficient, the back surface of the polystyrene foam boards must be sanded where the adhesive is applied. This will improve grip.
Drying time
The time it takes for the foam to acquire a hard and dry texture varies and depends on several indicators:
- The manufacturer creates foam of various qualities. You can purchase products that dry in different amounts of time.
- To avoid over-drying the product, remember that there are different types of drying, and each of them requires a certain amount of time. The surface layer hardens in about 20 minutes. You can use the tool to remove excess foam only after 4 hours, and final hardening will not occur earlier than after 24 hours.
- To speed up the drying time, spray not only the base with water, but also the applied composition itself.
Bonding thermal insulation boards
To glue polystyrene foam boards, you will need special glue and a foam gun.
When choosing an adhesive for gluing thermal insulation from polystyrene foam, you should choose a product designed for this type of material. To be sure that the slabs will be securely fastened.
It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the glue has low expandability and good thermal insulation properties.
Immediately before use, the glue should be mixed thoroughly!
Gluing the foam always starts from the very bottom, laying the bottom row on a special plinth.
Apply the glue unilaterally, onto the slab, in vertical strips, keeping a distance of 20-30 cm, then apply the slabs (within 10 minutes after applying the glue) and press evenly over the entire plane, for example, using a rule. The gaps and joints between the plates are also filled with glue to avoid any heat leaks that occur at the junction of materials. Excess glue is removed mechanically after it has dried, using a sharp knife.
Preparing a plasterboard wall: what is needed?
To fix the gypsum board to the wall, you need materials and tools:
- The selected type of drywall is moisture-resistant, ordinary.
- Dowel-nails, self-tapping screws.
- Selected adhesive for fixing sheets.
- Hammer, construction mixer.
- A plumb line, usually a sharp knife, a level.
- Container for preparing glue, spatula.
- Primer, roller, brush.
After collecting the necessary tools, as well as purchasing all the materials, you need to prepare the rough surface.
- Clean the wall of old cladding, wallpaper, paint.
- Existing cracks must be reinforced and puttied. Seal all holes with cement or gypsum based mortar.
- The surface is coated with a primer.
When the primer dries, gypsum boards are prepared. Holes for switch sockets are cut out in them.
For high-quality wall finishing, you need to properly prepare the adhesive mixture:
- The specified amount of water is poured into a clean container.
- Add a little dry mixture to the water and mix.
- After this, add the specified amount of dry mixture and slowly mix with a mixer.
- After obtaining a homogeneous mass, pour a small amount of PVA into the glue and mix again.
After kneading, the solution must stand for at least 5 minutes to completely dissolve the additives and obtain elasticity.
Fastening polystyrene foam - mechanical connections
After the glue has hardened, the thermal insulation boards must be additionally secured with mechanical connectors. Their type, length, quantity and location must be included in the insulation design. Typically, plastic dowel umbrellas are used for polystyrene foam, 5 cm longer than the thickness of the foam.
The number and placement of mechanical connectors depends on the specific building (including wind load zone) and height, but as a rule it is recommended that there be at least 4 per m² (the exception is the corners of the building, where the number of dowels should be increased).
Method No. 4
This method should be used when you are dealing with very uneven surfaces . It involves pre-treatment of drywall.
Solid sheets need to be cut into strips , the width of which is 0.1 m. The number of strips depends on the width and height of the walls. These strips will serve as the basis for the sheets. You need to take the strips and glue them vertically around the perimeter. The distance between the strips is 50-60 cm. They will serve as a frame structure. You will glue the sheets to the frame.
When gluing the frame, remember the level and the rule. They will allow you to create the perfect vertical . Apply the glue so as to achieve absolute leveling. The height of the glue pile should be 20-25 mm. The space under the frame allows you to hide electrical wiring and avoid gating the walls. Don't forget to secure the wires to the wall. After you have completed all the preliminary work and the glue on the strips has dried, you can glue the sheets.
You can safely use the same glue both times, or glue the sheets with liquid nails . Liquid nails hold plasterboard sheets perfectly , but this is significantly more expensive. Everyone chooses for themselves how to attach drywall to the frame, based on the repair budget.
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