How to drive birds out from under the roof of a house: 5 proven methods

  • determine the distance from the window to the edge of the wall ( d1 and d2 ).
    To make it more convenient to install, the window sill is not cut close to the walls of the opening, but slightly narrower : 20-30 mm less than the width of the opening at the window line and 10-20 mm less at the front edge of the opening. The main thing here is not to make it too narrow, so that later, when installed, the slopes (plastic or plaster) could rest with their lower edge against the window sill, and not against the gap between the window sill and the opening.
  • Protection from birds - tits, thrushes


    In 2012, we built a house from SIP panels.
    These panels are a block of foam plastic with sheets of OSB boards glued to it on both sides. When joining such panels, timber and polyurethane foam are used. In addition, foam was used when installing windows. The finishing of the facade has not yet been done, so the foam remains sealed. And in the very first winter there was an attack in the form of tits, which began to peck foam from the cracks. It was unclear how to deal with them. There are a lot of cats in the area, but they cannot jump up after the tits. They tried to knock on the wall from the room to scare away the birds. It worked, but they simply flew to another wall and continued their pecking business. Then they started looking for a way to fight birds on the Internet. We found a lot of them, of all of them the following one interested me the most. One gardener put a silhouette of an owl on a pole. According to him, birds are very afraid of this predator. They know that the owl is a nocturnal bird, but they believe that it is “cheaper” to stay away from it.


    We decided to try this method. We found and downloaded a drawing of an owl on the Internet so that we could cut out a silhouette using its template. It turned out that there was no pendulum saw at hand. Then this drawing was simply printed on a printer on an A4 sheet. And they stapled it to the wall of the house at the second floor level. We evaluated the idea and came to the conclusion that it was all useless.

    A few days later we noticed that tits were flying around the house, but they didn’t seem to be pecking at the walls. We watched for a few more days - they definitely weren’t biting. Maybe it wasn't an owl, it was just a coincidence. Moreover, they wrote on the Internet that birds quickly get used to the silhouettes of predators. In general, the tits no longer pecked foam during the first winter.

    The next year, in the summer, the drawing was torn off by the wind, but in the summer the tits seemed to have a lot to worry about. But by autumn they became more active again.


    Then a gardener friend told me that thrushes were rampant in his garden plot and pecking at the berries. He placed a figure of a crow near the beds and there have been no blackbirds for a week.

    Then we decided to try with the figure of an owl. We took two of them - with regular and polar colors.

    The figures have a round hole for mounting. The diameter of the hole coincides with the diameter of the round handle for shovels. The owl figures were mounted on cuttings and placed on both sides of the house - on the fence and near the wall.

    We began to observe and saw that tits were not at all afraid of owl figures. They sit nearby (7 meters) on tree branches and fly right next to the owls’ beaks. We thought that it was all pointless and went to study other methods of fighting birds. But after a few days we noticed that the tits did not peck at the foam. They fly past houses, sometimes sit on the walls, look warily at the figures of owls and fly away.

    We still don’t understand whether it was a coincidence or whether the shapes and patterns of owls really scare away tits. But they did not remove the figures. Moreover, they are quite beautiful.

    Installing a window sill and foaming the gaps

    The window sill, ready for installation, should have approximately the same shape as the one shown in the following figure (highlighted in yellow):

    As you can see, on the sides the window sill has so-called “ears” with which it rests against the wall. The width of the ears should correspond to the width of the paneling of future slopes; more precisely, the ears should be slightly larger than the paneling (usually 50 mm is enough). The eared edge of the sill (the leading edge) is the overhanging part that protrudes from the wall.

    This part should not be too wide (30-50 mm is enough), and most importantly, it should not cover the heating radiator by more than half, so as not to impede the flow of warm air coming from the radiator to the window.

    For a panel house, the optimal width is usually a window sill of 250 mm (sometimes 300 mm), but if you bought it with a margin in width (more precisely, in depth), then the excess part can be cut off from the back side - meaning the edge, with which the window sill joins the window.

    It is advisable to mark the cutting line so that it passes a little (5-10 mm) behind one of the vertical stiffening ribs located inside the window sill (see in the figure: the green dotted line is the correct cutting line, the red dotted line is incorrect).

    What happens if a bird flies into the window

    If a bird flies into the window, be prepared for life changes. According to popular belief, the bird is a symbol of good or sad news. It all depends on what kind of feathered guest came to you.

    February 18, 2017

    The content of the article:

    A bird flew into the window: a bad omen

    Crows, magpies and jackdaws carry bad news. A sparrow or tit flying into a house through a window portends death. According to signs, the cuckoo signifies a fire. A dove holding something in its beak means family scandals, divorce or trouble.

    According to popular wisdom, trouble cannot be avoided if a bird hits the glass, breaks and falls. By knocking on the window, feathered guests warn of unexpected expenses. It’s bad if a sparrow or crow knocks - it means spending money on treatment or repairs.

    A bird flew into the window: a good omen

    A favorable sign is a visit from a nightingale or dove. The nightingale symbolizes financial success. To prevent it from turning away from you, thank the bird - feed it, and then throw in 3 handfuls of wheat grain.

    The dove is a symbol of love. If he flew into your window, it means that someone will soon get married, will meet his destiny, or family relationships will improve in the house.

    Please note that, according to popular belief, the dove carries both good and bad news.

    The swallow warns against transactions and promises financial success and good luck. It also portends an imminent wedding, prosperity and joy in the family. She tells summer residents about a rich harvest this year.

    It’s good if the birds have marked you - expect good changes. This could be climbing the career ladder, improving wealth, or receiving an inheritance. Excrement on the windowsill - wait for guests to arrive.

    What to do if a bird flies into the window

    Remember: you can also expect trouble from birds with which good beliefs are associated. For example, if they fly in through a window and fly out through a door. Therefore, when visiting a feathered guest, do the following:

    1. Close all the doors, open one window wide.
    2. Don't kick the bird out, it should fly away on its own.
    3. If the bird is in no hurry to leave the house, feed it.
    4. You are allowed to carefully pick up the bird and release it out the window. The main thing is not to damage her wings. Afterwards, you can say the following words: “Fly in peace, take away the trouble” - and throw the cereal.

    Go to church. Say a prayer and light some candles. Ask for help and protection from higher powers.

    Which bird repeller is best?

    After reading the rating of the 10 best bird repellers, all that remains is to choose the model you need. Our team cannot give definite recommendations, since the choice is individual for everyone. However, we will highlight the most effective models from the TOP:

    • EcoSniper LS-987BF – affordable, compact, has a motion detector, and efficiently consumes battery power;
    • Grad-A16 – about 40 sounds built into memory, affects birds and rodents, protects an area of ​​up to 10,000 m2;
    • Sititek “Owl” is an imitation of a night predator, has a durable body and wear-resistant paint, the head sways even in light winds, which guarantees the effectiveness of scaring;
    • Bird Gard Pro is universal, designed for servicing large objects, has precise settings (sound type, pause time between signals).

    Any of the listed models reliably protects the area, has high-quality assembly, and is safe for people and pets. What to choose is up to you.

    Sealant for windows STIZ. Selection, application, result

    Window installation today in almost all cases is carried out using polyurethane foam. The foam seam (junction assembly) along the window contour must be protected with precipitation-resistant, vapor-permeable material on the outside and vapor barrier material on the inside. For this purpose I used STIZ window sealant. Why the choice fell on the sealant, how to apply it and the final result are further in the article.

    Options and choice of method for protecting the foam seam when installing windows.

    Externally it is usually used:

    • pre-compressed sealing tape (PSUL);
    • specialized sealants;
    • tile adhesive or other cementitious composition;
    • leave the foam without additional processing.

    From the inside, they mainly use:

    • vapor barrier tapes;
    • specialized sealants;
    • leave the foam without additional processing.

    The main disadvantages of the above methods.

    The PSUL may cover the junction unevenly if the window opening is not level and the installation gap varies in length. Birds can also peck it out, and low-quality material can begin to crumble over the years.

    If the window opening is uneven, it may be impossible to properly glue the vapor barrier tape from the inside without first leveling it.

    When the ambient temperature changes, the window will change slightly in volume. It will also experience vibrations when opening/closing and from wind loads. In this case, tile adhesive or other cementitious compounds will crack.

    On the outside, the polyurethane foam is destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, which is present in sunlight. From the inside, the foam can be affected by steam, which tends to escape, especially in the cold season. Therefore, leaving it completely unprotected is unacceptable.

    Having studied the issue, I made certain conclusions for myself and settled on using a specialized window sealant for the following reasons:

    • the sealant tightly and efficiently closes the seam, taking into account all the irregularities;
    • it is resistant to deformation;
    • if necessary, it can be painted in any color;
    • it has a wide range of operating and application temperatures;
    • over time, the sealant does not collapse or crumble;
    • creates an aesthetic appearance of the window when applied carefully.

    The main disadvantage of using sealant is that you need to spend more time applying it and waiting for it to dry before further finishing.

    There are different manufacturers of specialized acrylic window sealants. Before use, please read the specific manufacturer's instructions.

    Various window sealants

    I will consider the process of working with STIZ sealants from SAZI Group, since I used the products of this manufacturer.

    Important: STIZ brand sealants contain red inclusions - these are identifying marks that are added at production. They are needed in order to look at the finished seam to make sure that it was really STIZ sealant that was used, and not any other. After drying, these marks are practically invisible.

    Important: you need to take into account that different sealants are used for the inner and outer layers. Outside – STIZ A (vapor permeable), inside – STIZ B (vapor barrier). There is also STEEZ D, which is applied to the wall itself. But I didn’t use it, I simply primed the opening before installing the window.

    Sealants can be in buckets of different sizes, tubes or file bags for guns (for thinner application).

    STIZ window sealant: application process.

    Preparing to apply sealant.

    So, the windows are installed without any finishing. It is advisable to seal them with film to protect them from sealant. Although I was able to remove even the frozen sealant from the glass and plastic frame without much difficulty.

    The first step is to trim the foam.

    If, after trimming, deep “depressions” of more than 6 millimeters appear, they need to be filled with foam and then the excess should be trimmed again.

    Next, I additionally dusted and primed those areas of the window opening where the sealant will be applied.

    I also degreased the areas of the frame where the sealant would come into contact with it.

    Then, on the outside of the window, I applied masking tape to the window frame and to the wall to create boundaries and to get a neat, even seam. Inside, the factory protective film served as a restriction on the window frame. There was no need to glue anything to the inside of the wall, since everything would then be covered by the slopes and the window sill.

    When applying, it is necessary that the width of the contact strip of the sealant with the surfaces of the wall and window block is at least 3 millimeters on each side. The layer thickness should ideally be between 3.5 and 5.5 millimeters. Detailed application instructions and technical recommendations are available on the manufacturer’s website.

    In some places, on the window side, I slightly deepened the seam using a wire brush. This was done in order to maintain the width of the contact, but minimize it on the front side.

    Applying sealant.

    The consistency of STIZ sealant resembles very thick sour cream.

    Using a spatula, pressing slightly, I applied sealant to the mounting foam along the entire contour, including the window sill areas and wooden frames from old windows. You can apply it with a brush, but it turned out to be more convenient with a spatula.

    Next, I passed the brush along the entire length, lightly moistening it with water to make the seam neater. But you need to keep in mind that the manufacturer strongly does not recommend diluting the sealant with water.

    After applying the sealant, you must immediately remove the masking tape before it hardens.

    The result is smooth, neat contours. Small irregularities can be carefully trimmed with a sharp knife.

    Active methods: effects on the senses

    So, if neither scarecrows nor passive protection give 100% results due to the characteristics of your area, where birds on the roof of a house are a pressing problem, proceed to active action. Let's put it this way: birds have been living with people for a long time. They have adapted to humans and even city noise does not bother them, and therefore sometimes the listed methods are not enough. Then “heavy artillery” comes into play in the form of special installations, the operation of which requires electricity. Abroad, for example, it is popular to conduct a small current through the roof. It doesn't kill birds, but it doesn't create a pleasant feeling for them. True, such work requires certain qualifications and is not always safe:

    Therefore, if a little noise from the eyes of predators is not enough, then you should trust modern technology. When choosing a bird repeller for the roof for your home, focus on indicators such as:

    • range of action, which will depend on your territory;
    • scope of use (whether you choose a model for an industrial complex or your small suburban area);
    • way of eating. For example, all acoustic and ultrasonic models must be plugged into an outlet.

    Let's look at their types and popular models.

    How to drive away titmice?

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    Bird repeller rating

    When selecting, the VyborExperta.ru project team was guided by the opinions of specialists and buyers. We have highlighted the main parameters that need to be taken into account when choosing repellers:

    • Device type;
    • Area, radius of influence;
    • Type of food;
    • Number of positive and negative reviews;
    • Power;
    • Ease of installation and connection;
    • Body dimensions;
    • Moisture resistance.

    After analyzing hundreds of models, we present the ranking of the 10 best bird repellers of 2022. The TOP is divided into 3 sections: ultrasonic, bioacoustic, visual.

    The best food for parrots

    Furniture Blog

    Quality Furniture BY

    How to resolve the conflict between the countertop and the window sill on the same level?

    How to resolve the conflict between the countertop and the window sill? The window sill is hollow plastic, 30 mm thick, the table top is 38 mm. There will be furniture bodies up to the window sill. Is it possible to mill the tabletop from below so that the window sill “fits” into it? How to seal it then? What are the consequences of such a decision?

    Next is a photo of the window sill. Let me clarify that its lower edge is at a height of 830mm, and its upper edge is 860mm. Considering my height (160cm), the level of the working area (read tabletop) cannot be raised above 860-870mm.

    Here you can see that if you cut the window sill to fit the tabletop, there will be an ugly hole.

    And here you can see how much the tabletop will overlap the window sill.

    In general, this is real. Ideally, it is better to change the window sill, making it from the same post-forming material, but as I understand it, the window has already been replaced before, and it is tightly clogged. Cutting a hollow window sill along the length to the depth of the tabletop is also unsightly. Making a cut with a router to a depth of 145 mm towards the corner of the room from the rounding of the tabletop and removing 30 mm of the thickness of the tabletop 65 mm from the window is difficult: you need a good long cutter (expensive), various fasteners to fix the tabletop, a lightweight router. Anything can be done, but the risk is great. I would try, but I doubt that at your request they will agree to do this in production.

    There is another solution. Order this recess to be made on a cutting machine. It is used to saw the material of your kitchen. I ordered something similar when I assembled the double sided drawers. The groove in the sidewalls is designed for 16 mm chipboard, and I am working with 18 mm. The bottom of the box had to be made of 18 16 along the edges to a width of 2 cm on each side.

    The following is done: The saw extends above the carriage to the height that needs to be removed. In your case 30 mm. You need to drive it in such a way that the saw teeth meet the front side of the postforming. It is not necessary to drive the entire depth of the tabletop (600 mm), but it is easier for sawers. In your case, 160 - 200 millimeters is enough. Since the thickness of the saw is 3 mm, your tabletop will have to be driven on the carriage along the saw step by step 22 times (65/3). It would cost me 22*0.6*0.3 = $4. If you do it carefully, everything will work out. Then sand the recess, preferably with a drill attachment.

    As for sealing, use silicone caulk (transparent). Apply it to the entire surface of the recess with a layer of 2-3 mm, immediately before finishing and final installation of the countertop. After installing the countertop, carefully wipe off any excess that comes out from under it with a dry cloth. I think everything will work out.

    Why can’t you use a router in the same way as you suggest using a format machine? Place the tabletop face down, set the router to 30mm and select stripes from the edge? Just how should the cutter go into the plastic so that there are no chips? Should the knife be on the plastic side? Are there any restrictions on the width/diameter of the cutter?

    Julia, I am not aware of your capabilities. But always, when I try to do something that I do for the first time, I test it on waste. There are a lot of milling cutters, that’s why there are concerns. And the main thing is fixing the part. Having worked with a router for 7 years, I cannot tell you that a router in your case is better than a format machine. There are fewer surprises with the formatter. The cutter should not break out the plastic, so it should move towards the plastic. You understand that they make 20 thousand revolutions per minute in the opposite direction. If you lived in Minsk, I would conduct experiments with you, but, theoretically, I cannot mislead you. The formatter method seems to me optimal, and therefore cheap. $4 is not 200 (the cost of a German cutter). A hand cutter has an average speed of 20,000 rpm. Without reliable fixation, there is a risk of damaging the material. It is better not to do such manipulations manually. Everything is easier on the machine. They will set up a ruler, secure the tabletop with clamps, and run it once. Then they will install the ruler with an offset of 3 millimeters, lower the locking lever and run it again. Then a couple dozen more times, and that’s it. It couldn't be simpler. I have been working with a hand milling machine for a long time and have conducted various experiments. Therefore, he must give qualified advice, and not engage in amateur activities.

    The best bioacoustic bird repellers

    Bioacoustic repellers play recordings of natural predator sounds, such as the call of a hawk or owl. These sounds are guaranteed to have an effect on birds, causing panic and causing them to fly away.

    Grad-A16

    We have before us an effective biometric bird repeller, which also has the functions of a light and sound device. There are about 40 different sounds installed in the memory that repel birds and rodents. The sounds imitate large animals. You can add your own options.

    The range of action is more than 7000 m, that is, Grad-A16 is designed to protect large areas (for example, industrial and agricultural enterprises).

    Advantages:

    • Professional device;
    • The range can be adjusted;
    • Convenient controls.

    Flaws:

    • High price.

    Bird Gard Pro

    This repeller is designed to protect large areas with an area of ​​up to 6000 m2. The moisture-resistant housing is suitable for use in rainy weather. The controls are located at the front.

    Adjust the volume of scaring signals in accordance with the area of ​​the protected object. Combine sounds to avoid getting used to the operation of the device. Adjust the duration of pauses between beeps (from 17 seconds to 30 minutes).

    Choose the operating time of the equipment (day, night, 24 hours a day). For example, in the dark, birds are less active than during the day. By selecting the “night” option, you can extend your battery life.

    Advantages:

    • Possibility of precise settings;
    • Suitable for protecting large areas;
    • Powered by battery or mains;
    • Moisture-resistant housing;
    • Additionally, you can connect an external speaker.

    Flaws:

    • High price.

    Tornado OP-01 A

    The selection is completed by a universal repeller capable of fighting all groups of pests. There are three types of recordings installed in the memory: the first imitates the voices of predators and is designed to scare away sparrows and tits. The second reproduces the cries of hunters, affecting small rodents. The latter makes the sounds of flying predators such as falcons and gyrfalcons, affecting larger birds.

    Set up modes using the control panel located on the case. Combine signals, choose pause times. Thanks to its high power, the device protects an area of ​​up to 10,000 m2. The range can be reduced.

    Advantages:

    • Compact dimensions;
    • Option to automatically turn off at night;
    • Security area up to 10,000 m2.

    Flaws:

    • The battery is not included in the package;
    • It makes noise when working.

    The power source is a 220V network or a battery, purchased separately. The compact dimensions of the housing allow the unit to be mounted under a roof or on a pole.

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