This is a profile strip made of dense polyvinyl chloride, divided inside into two or more chambers. This element is attached to the lower end of the window block and acts as a kind of gasket between the frame and the opening. The material used for manufacturing is not as aesthetically attractive as plastic doors, but is much more resistant to mechanical and temperature influences.
What is a stand profile
The stand profile is an auxiliary element made of plastic, the purpose of which follows from its name. The base strip is placed under the lower ends of the metal-plastic to simplify installation, and then removed after installation work.
Main characteristics:
- length – from 6 to 7.5 cm;
- width – 2-10 cm;
- number of cameras – from 1 to 5;
- thickness – from 2 mm;
- internal partition – from 1 mm.
The production material for the coasters is plastic, the color of which differs by one or two tones from the opening. Often, a support strip is needed to mount a window in an opening; after that, the mount is not removed, but is finished together with a plastic bag with plaster, which does not affect the overall appearance.
Installation
There are 2 ways to install a window sill profile.
Method No. 1
With this option, the window sill strip is installed first, and then the frame.
- A piece of the required size is cut.
- It is placed in the opening and leveled using a building level.
- A preliminary fitting of the window frame is done. If there is a gap between it and the top of the opening, it can be eliminated by raising the support bar. To do this, you can place pieces of timber under it.
- The space between the bar and the opening is filled with polyurethane foam.
M r. Build recommends that to prevent the “bare” bottom profile from becoming a weak point of the entire structure in terms of freezing, it must be additionally insulated. To do this, extruded polystyrene foam, cross-linked polyethylene or other insulation in the form of a bar is inserted into one of its chambers.
Why do you need a support profile for a plastic window?
There are many reasons to use a plastic window sill profile. Installing the clover simplifies installation work and eliminates the risk of frame damage.
Other reasons to use a stand:
- transportation - stands simplify the delivery of windows to an apartment in a multi-storey building, eliminating the risk of accidental damage;
- fastening the window sill - without a stand, fastening the window sill and drainage took several hours; installing the stands simplifies the work and eliminates additional work;
- sealing the installation seam - the seam between the window and the wall is blown in with foam, but such material does not exclude misfire, the formation of a cold bridge, the basic clover provides complete sealing and heat insulation;
- fastening the window - mounting the window holders fixes the window at a level with the safety of all fittings and accessories.
Measuring window openings: general rules for do-it-yourself work
It's no secret that all construction and repair work is subject to general mathematical rules
This statement fully applies to such an important matter as measuring window openings for plastic windows. Existing measurement rules make it possible to quickly and easily install exactly those plastic windows that are ideal for a specific room
So what are they:
- the proposed measurer must have an analytical mind, good spatial thinking, and have personal experience in installing windows;
- measurements must be taken both inside and outside. The inside of a plastic window is always larger than the outside;
- before starting measurements, it is necessary to complete all preparatory work (brick laying, removing old plaster, etc.);
- in many houses (especially panel houses) there is a misalignment of the window opening. In order to avoid through gaps, it is necessary to maintain the minimum standards of plastic window panels: the size of the inner part of the window is 30-40 mm in width and 15-20 mm in height larger than the size of the outer side;
- Before you start installing a window, you must compare its dimensions with the calculations that were made at the initial stage. A mechanical error may be made, which will nullify all the work carried out in the previous stages.
These rules are mandatory for any craftsman involved in taking measurements and installing windows and double-glazed windows in apartments, offices and private homes.
Selection requirements
The lining strip is a part that cannot be ordered blindly in an online store. In order for it to fit under the new PVC box, it is selected taking into account all the requirements. The wall thickness is more than 2 mm for reliable insulation. It is better to choose a sweet clover equipped with at least two chambers.
Please note: the shade of the base part is always in harmony with the color of the window or 1-2 shades darker than it.
Recommended size of the base part: width 2-4 cm, height – 2-3 cm. The length of the part corresponds to the length of the opening. It is not recommended to attach a window sill or ebb directly to a frame without a profile. This will lead to its damage and depressurization. Excluding the sweet clover when installing the box will lead to problems and possible damage to the frame.
The best manufacturers
Window profile systems from large manufacturers are usually equipped with a stand profile.
Their separate purchase may be required if:
- The complete profile is not suitable or the customer is not satisfied with its characteristics (lack of thermal insulation filler, number of chambers).
- In case of loss (happens quite often with domestic installers) or breakdown;
The most common manufacturers on the modern market:
- Rehau. Popular models: energy-saving five-chamber profile - 561910 and two-chamber with reinforcing filler - 561790;
- KBE. A three-chamber version (article 342) 46 mm wide, 3 cm high and its analogue with a pressure wing (article 343) are often used.
- Veka. The products of this company are represented by models of the Softline line - a two-chamber profile with a pressure wing and Euroline - a three-chamber version without filler.
Types and parameters
The basic bottom profile differs in size, cross-section, quantity, chamber filling, length, height, thickness of outer walls, and intersection partitions. There are differences in compatibility with production systems.
Based on this, the planks are:
- single-chamber - a simple basic element for fastening a PVC structure with low weight, thickness of outer walls, low cost;
- two-chamber - a durable element with two chambers, designed for glazing balconies, verandas, loggias, for cold glazing;
- five-chamber - endowed with high thermal insulation, energy-saving properties, rarely used for domestic purposes;
- prefabricated modifications - a part of an unusual design, from 10 cm or more, equipped with vertical and horizontal sections at the same time, and have compartments for collecting sealant.
All types are intended for indoor installation and are not noticeable after finishing work. Planks of a sophisticated design completely replace windows. The cost of such models is higher, and skill is also required to mount them correctly.
Dimensions
The profile parameters are determined by its width and thickness. In this regard, manufacturers try to adhere to standard values. A common frame version may have dimensions of 58x63x43 mm. The dimensions of the sash are 58x77x57 mm, the dimensions of the impost are 58x87x47 mm.
When the profile accommodates 6 chambers, its thickness can be 85-90 mm. At 70mm it usually has up to 5 cameras. In the first case, the profile is thick and is not suitable for every window opening. 70mm is considered the best option if up to 5 cameras are needed.
The thickness of the front wall of class “A” is on average 3 mm. For category “B” analogues, this figure is reduced by half a millimeter. The front side of classes “A” and “B” is thinner by 0.5 mm each from the values of the front wall. In category “C”, manufacturers do not indicate data. The installation width of the profile in some varieties can be 104, 110 and 130 mm.
Installation methods
To correctly install the support strip, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the walls, building material, ebb, opening, and the part itself. The base element is mounted in two ways. The choice of installation method depends on the characteristics of the room.
Option one
It is distinguished by an increased level of complexity, so it is rarely used for self-assembly at home. The method consists of step-by-step fastening of the stand and box.
Let's look at this method step by step:
- Marking the stand strip in accordance with the frame parameters.
- Cutting the stand to the required length.
- Aligning the prepared part at the bottom of the opening according to the level.
- Measuring the distance from the top of the opening to the plank.
- Preliminary block fitting.
- Adjusting the size of the gaps between the glass and the frame.
- Sealing gaps with foam.
Option two
Suitable for beginners and experienced installers.
It involves mounting the opening according to the following algorithm:
- Removing the sweet clover attached to the box.
- Inserting an additional warm layer into the stand chamber.
- Filling the junctions of the lower element with foam or adhesive tape for sealing.
- Attaching the base stand to the bottom of the frame.
- Installation of the block using a level.
- Using foam to seal gaps.
- Cut off excess foam.
- Preparing a place for a window sill and installing it.
Installation
There are 2 ways to install a window sill profile.
Method No. 1
With this option, the window sill strip is installed first, and then the frame.
- A piece of the required size is cut.
- It is placed in the opening and leveled using a building level.
- A preliminary fitting of the window frame is done. If there is a gap between it and the top of the opening, it can be eliminated by raising the support bar. To do this, you can place pieces of timber under it.
- The space between the bar and the opening is filled with polyurethane foam.
Mr. Build recommends that to prevent the “bare” bottom profile from becoming a weak point of the entire structure in terms of freezing, it must be additionally insulated. To do this, extruded polystyrene foam, cross-linked polyethylene or other insulation in the form of a bar is inserted into one of its chambers.
Method number 2
Experienced professionals do things differently:
- Detach the support strip from the frame.
- Insulation is placed in the profile chamber.
- Glue sealing tape to the bottom of the frame or apply mounting foam to the joint, as shown in the photo. You can use both at the same time.
Let’s assume an option using cross-linked polyethylene, which is located not in the chamber, but at the junction of the bar and the frame. But at least somewhere there must be insulation!
- The window block is installed together with the bottom profile.
Mr. Build recommends the second installation option: it is guaranteed to prevent freezing of the joint and the formation of cold bridges in the window sill area.
The window sill profile will ensure strong fastening of additional elements of the window block, and its high-quality installation will provide thermal insulation. The video below shows how to achieve 100% efficiency during its installation and not leave a single loophole for the cold, using EPS insulation, polyurethane foam and sealant.
Stand profile - an addition or a necessity?
If desired, you can install the box without using bottom elements. Eliminating this detail helps save resources, but has a detrimental effect on further operation. It is important to remember that the window sill inside the room is attached to the bottom strip, the ebb is from the outside of the wall.
If this element is completely abandoned, the structure will suffer, since there will be nothing to attach it to. The absence of spacer elements increases the risk of frame damage, deformation, depressurization, and the development of fungus and mold. The frame will become unstable, fragile, and with little weight it may sag or fall off along with the slopes. Therefore, the use of auxiliary parts when assembling the box is recommended.
Structure
The PVC profile is a plastic frame for double-glazed windows. Despite its apparent simplicity, this design is not simple. In the cross section of the profile, many air chambers are visible. Due to them, heat preservation is ensured. The more there are, the better the level of thermal protection.
For rigidity and reliability, a metal frame is inserted into the base of the profile. This process in production is called reinforcement. Due to reinforcement, the profile becomes stronger, eliminating the possibility of its deformation and resistance to changes in structure under the influence of negative environmental factors (for example, rain, gusty winds and frost). The profile material is polyvinyl chloride.
Regardless of the type of profile, the metal strips inside it are an important factor that you need to pay attention to when ordering. It is because of them that the profile is called metal-plastic
At the bottom of the structure they are connected to the atmosphere. Due to this, droplets flow onto the street when they appear. The presence of such holes does not in any way affect the heat level in the room: the heat in the room does not decrease. Externally, such elements do not spoil the aesthetic appearance of the windows, since in most cases they are covered with plugs or are simply not visible against the background of the entire structure. The presence of these holes indicates a high-quality window. It will be more durable compared to a modification without them.
How to install a window sill without a support profile?
Installing a window sill and drainage without a stand is a task of increased complexity. The exclusion of bottom parts requires special attention to surface preparation and selection of fasteners.
For installation you will need the following tools:
- PVC corner;
- level;
- pencil;
- roulette;
- sealant/foam;
- screws;
- self-tapping screws;
- perforator;
- jigsaw
Preparation stage
First, the surface needs to be prepared for the window sill. The opening is leveled and cleaned, measurements are taken for the future structure, and markings are left with a pencil. Using a jigsaw, the product is cut to the required measurements. When the ceiling is ready, proceed to the main stage - installation.
Installation of a window sill without profiles
If the use of bottom elements is excluded, wooden beacons up to 80 cm in size are used instead. They guarantee the strength and stability of the structure in a horizontal position and are easily controlled by a level. The window sill is installed in a prepared place, under the slabs of which wooden blocks are installed at a distance of 50 cm from each other.
When lowering the structure, the wooden elements should not go beyond the level of the wall, and their distance to the side walls should not exceed 10 cm. Before fastening, it is advisable to perform a preliminary check of evenness using a level.
Without stand profile
Please note: the load for fixing the window sill should not be too large so as not to provoke deformation.
Foam is used to secure the stands. After fastening, a small load is placed on the surface to avoid lifting and deformation of the plane. The free space under the window sill is filled with foam. The structure is left in a fixed position for 3 days until the foam completely hardens.
Excess material is removed with a utility knife, the surface is leveled and finished with plaster. If cracks are found, they are sealed with sealant. The final stage of installation is painting to match the color of the opening.
Features of measuring window openings in private houses of old construction
Before measuring a window opening in an old private house, it is necessary to identify the actual dimensions of this opening. This requires dismantling the slopes. Often, significant gaps are hidden under the slopes, sealed with cement or insulation.
Before measuring a window opening in an old house, it is necessary to dismantle the slopes
During dismantling of the old frame, this entire additional structure may collapse and it turns out that the opening is much larger, which will only be a plus. But, if measurements were previously made using old windows, then all the free space will have to be restored instead of using wider windows.
Blowing in all cracks to protect the window
At this stage, it is important not to get distracted and not do the job carelessly. All cracks must be filled with foam. If there are holes of 2 cm, then they are blown out several times, taking a break of at least 30 minutes. To protect the dried foam from the sun, you can use cement mortar mixed with sand or a mixture for fixing tiles.
As for installing the window sill, it can be inclined from the window by 3°. This will protect the glass from collecting condensation. When blowing foam into the cracks, place weights on it in 3 places, each weighing 5 kg.
When installing yourself, you need to approach the matter with full responsibility, from choosing a design to sealing cracks.
