Standard door sizes suggest an opening depth of 75-80 mm. But we know that this parameter can be greater. In country houses, office premises. What to do if the depth of the doorway is 200-300 mm? ]doors[/anchor], of course, provided for this nuance. And long ago they came up with a special decor for a neat and beautiful design of the opening. They are extras. From the name it is clear that they “get” the rest of the opening. And you don’t need to invent anything else. They are installed together with the door frame and no one will guess that additional elements were used for your opening.
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An extension is a strip 10-16 mm thick and 100 mm wide, which is located in the opening and attached to the door frame. Materials for manufacturing are similar to the door material. This is natural wood, MDF base + PVC film or eco-veneer. If your doors are covered with enamel, then it is advisable to make the same additions to the kit.
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How to make planks with your own hands?
These strips are installed to maximize the perimeter of the doorway. They consist of two vertical supports with one horizontal bar. Such a modification is needed in two cases: if the width of the door frame is smaller than the wall, or simply to frame the opening and design the slope. They often come complete with a door block and have a not at all complicated design, which means you can try to make them yourself. Moreover, this skill will come in handy on the farm more than once. They are made from different materials, such as MDF, fiberboard, metal, wood, which allows them to fit any furniture, wallpaper, or interior.
Material for door extensions Extensions are a good alternative to other ways to modify an opening. Their installation takes place in the shortest possible time, and for installation there is no need to use substances with water, which will reduce the likelihood of significant shrinkage of the wood around the door. In addition, these elements do not require frequent repairs. You can purchase designs in a store or make them yourself. Especially if you plan to use wood for cladding. To make them, you first need to decide on the product components and dimensions. The width of the plank is calculated very simply: take the thickness of the wall, subtract the width of the box and add the dimensions of the fastenings. The simplest extensions are made from straight boards. You just need to buy the material, cut off the excess from it, and adjust the connections for the fasteners. A groove mount would be best. On the front side of the board, mark the contours for cutting. Using a router, chisel and drill, cut down unnecessary material. Then sand the surface with sandpaper. We make a tenon on the wrong side; to do this, you need to remove the wood from the marked mark. Now about aesthetics. To obtain the required shade, you will need a stain, which will also protect the material from aging. Then you should varnish them several times or paint them in the desired color. If the structure needs to be installed in a bathroom, then the coating must protect against high levels of humidity.
Preparing for installation
Before you begin installation, it is important to understand the dimensions of the extensions themselves.
And understanding will appear after measuring the installation site. The first thing you do is install the door frame. And only after that do you measure the actual dimensions of the extensions themselves. How to do it? Take 2 regular rulers (preferably one of them is angled). Hold one on the wall surface, the other in the extension position. In the installed box there is a place where the addition will “come”. Your task is to use a ruler to simulate the installation of future extensions in order to understand the actual depth dimensions. And the second ruler on the face of the wall will draw a parallel for you and determine the exact value. The end of the installation will be at the level of the wall. It is impossible for the addition to extend beyond its limits. Take these measurements at several points along the width and height. And be sure to write it down so you don’t have to try again.
Once you have determined the exact dimensions, all that remains is to cut the extension blanks. Use an electric jigsaw or a fine-toothed hacksaw. On the boards, if you cut them with a saw with large teeth, chips will remain, which will then have to be decorated and covered with putty to match the color.
We measure the depth of the opening from the door frame
| Before you begin installation, it is important to understand the dimensions of the extensions themselves. And understanding will appear after measuring the installation site. The first thing you do is install the door frame. And only after that do you measure the actual dimensions of the extensions themselves. |
Fastening the box
Installation begins with attaching the strip with canopies. It must be leveled in two planes and in alignment with the wall. When the wall is blocked and installed with telescopic platbands, the box is installed at the deepest point. You can even recess it a little more so that the taper is not noticeable. The remaining elements of the box are displayed with the canvas hung. If there is the correct rebate and gaps, then the planks are in their place.
To fix the box, you can choose from hidden fasteners, direct hangers, screws screwed through the material, or dowels. The latter are hidden behind a removable porch. If the narthex and frame are made as a single piece, for hidden installation they are placed behind the awnings and the latch striker plate. This option for arranging hardware is suitable if the opening material is not prone to cracking or there are embedded parts in the right places.
In the installation position, the box is wedged, the gap around the perimeter is wetted and filled with polyurethane foam. The extrusion of the slats into the opening can be prevented by closing the door. To prevent the canvas from being pinched by the box, tile crosses, cardboard, matches, etc. are placed in the gap between them.
Installation of accessories
Installing the extensions is very easy to do yourself. It is only important to understand what kind of door frame you have. They come in two types:
- Built-in groove in the box
- Monolithic block without groove
A box with a groove immediately makes it easier for you to install the extensions. It is enough just to try the extension into the groove, adjust the position and secure it. In the version without a groove, you will have to accurately measure the geometry of all height deviations. This factor increases installation time.
Installation using self-tapping screws
Before attaching the extensions with self-tapping screws, make holes with a wood drill. This is necessary to ensure that the material does not split. All holes and fastenings in this case will be beautiful and neat. Select a drill 1 mm smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. The length of the screws is usually 25 mm. Their task is to attract and strengthen the fittings in the door frame. Therefore, there is no need for long screws.
To make a hole, install the drill into the end of the extension at an angle of 45*. And drill right through. You will end up with a diagonal hole. After this, feel free to screw the extensions to the door frame. First the vertical elements, then the top horizontal.
| A box with a groove immediately makes it easier for you to install the extensions. It is enough just to try the extension into the groove, adjust the position and secure it. In the version without a groove, you will have to accurately measure the geometry of all height deviations. This factor increases installation time. |
How are platbands installed?
You can install the casing correctly in the following way:
- Take the dimensions of the door block in which the interior door is installed: the height of the counter from the floor to the intersection with the upper beam. Write down this value.
- Measure the resulting value from the smooth edge of the casing. If this is not the case, perform trimming. When applying the size, add 3 mm if trimming is carried out at 45⁰ and additionally the width of the casing when joining at 90⁰.
- Trim the side strips at the desired angle according to the markings.
- Install the first plank from the side of the awnings, secure the platbands with copper-plated nails.
- Install the second side bar in the same way.
- The upper casing is first trimmed on one side, fitted to the structure and trimmed on the other side. Error must be kept to a minimum. Once ready, you can install the top trim and nail it. You can glue the door element using specialized building material.
Installed trims can be painted in the desired color or varnished.
Installation with nails
This method is easier than installing with screws. Requires less skill and has invisible fastenings. And the fastening strength is excellent.
To begin, drill small holes in the end of the extension for the nails. We remember that the board may split if preliminary holes are not made. The depth of the hole is equal to half the length of the nail.
“Bite off” the caps of the nails and place them in the holes with the sharp side facing out. Next, place this entire structure in the installation location and, hitting the door, drive it into the door frame. Voila, installation is complete.
Installation with foam
The fastest installation method. The main thing here is not to overdo it with polyurethane foam. Otherwise, the extension will lose its geometry due to high pressure from the wall. So, for this method you do not need to drill any holes.
Install the extensions into the opening and secure them in place with wooden wedges. The additions must be in the position of the final result. Eliminate all gaps between the frame and the extensions. Next, at the base of the contact between the extensions and the frame, draw a line of polyurethane foam, and then horizontally in several places. Align the extensions again so that they are fixed with foam in the correct position.
Preparatory work and calculations
The preparatory work before installing the extensions comes down mainly to taking measurements of the opening. The only exception is a large gap between the wall and the frame or a crooked end of the wall. In this case, partial plastering of the slope is performed either to reduce the gap or to level the opening.
To determine the size of the additional strip, you first need to take measurements of the end of the wall, and then calculate the parameters of the extension. The work is performed in the following order:
- using a tape measure and a construction angle, measure the distance from the box to the plane of the wall (when working with one ruler, there will be distortions due to the angle between the surface of the wall and the box). Measurements are taken at least 4 times vertically and 3 times at the top;
- the width of the extension and the number of planks are calculated if the wall is wide. It is advisable to take the planks a little wider - you can always adjust them with a plane.
For information: the most meticulous ones check the results of calculations using the “Pythagorean triangle” method, which, in the opinion of the editors, is unnecessary when doing work with your own hands.
Installation of telescopic extension
In such an installation system, not only the extension is telescopic. The box, the extensions, the platbands - all these elements are elements of the puzzle. You simply place the strips into the grooves. You will find out that you have exactly such a system when you purchase it. Salon managers recommend it. And they have reasons for this:
- Tight connection with the entire structure
- Easy to install
- It is possible to adjust the height and depth
- During the installation process, you can correct irregularities that were not taken into account initially.
Telescopic accessory assembly diagram
