External window finishing: photos, videos, how to finish external slopes on windows

When installing a plastic window, as a rule, the window opening loses its attractiveness. In this case, potholes, cracks, and remnants of polyurethane foam appear. What to do?

There is a simple way out - to make high-quality external slopes. To do this, it is enough to choose the right installation material and perform the work using existing technologies.

Let us dwell in more detail on issues related to the finishing of external slopes.

Exterior window decoration: photo examples and step-by-step instructions

To maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house, modern windows are necessary.
And the first thing you need to do after installing them is to properly finish the slopes. In this article we will look at options for finishing windows outside the house. What materials and technologies to use. In the text you will find step-by-step instructions and master classes on how to do it yourself, what problems may arise if the rules are not followed. Exterior window decoration: photo examples and step-by-step instructions.

Finishing the windows from the outside is the last and necessary moment in the window installation procedure. At the final stage, it is necessary to hide the rough surface of the walls, fastenings, and polyurethane foam. You shouldn’t put off this important moment “for later.” Facing the slopes from the outside gives the window and entrance group visual appeal and completeness. It masks unsightly foam stripes and cracks formed during installation, and more importantly, it helps protect the structure on the street side from destruction. Preserves its original properties and ensures durability.

Questions and answers

When should you install a window sill?

First, the window is installed, then the window sill, and lastly the slopes.

How to install slopes - straight or at an angle?

You can make them perpendicular to the window, or at a slight angle, whichever you prefer in appearance. In the second option, the opening seems to expand into the room. It should be borne in mind that this is more difficult to achieve, as is drawing the angles of contact with the walls (since they are not straight).

What to do with the joint between the slopes and the frame?

It is advisable to leave a small gap and then fill it with silicone sealant. It will allow the materials to expand, but will not allow water and air to pass through.

Are plastic slopes safe?

Reputable manufacturers use non-toxic PVC. To verify this, you can check the certificate. Slopes should not have a strong odor.

External window decoration: functions and the need for finishing

In addition to the purely decorative component, external slopes perform the following tasks:

provide additional insulation of walls and windows;
protect the polyurethane foam layer from exposure to sunlight, moisture penetration and temperature changes. Moisture-saturated foam collapses when frozen and loses its heat-insulating and noise-insulating properties;
prevent the appearance of condensation in frames and the formation of fungus;
serve as additional protection from external noise.

Helpful advice! Do not delay performing this work for a long time. During this time, irreversible changes may occur in the structure, which will entail the need for repairs and even replacement of windows.

What it is?

This is a special external coating located on the window opening to protect the window profile from the effects of the external environment and give the PVC window an attractive appearance.

They are carried out strictly according to technology in order to ensure durability, heat and sound protection, as well as high aesthetic characteristics.

For the external slope, it is allowed to use materials with high moisture and frost resistance, but they should not interfere with the overall design of the façade of the house.

Why do you need exterior finishing?

Window slopes perform a number of important functions and must meet the requirements of SNiP:

The appearance of the walls at the opening must correspond to the project, have a finished appearance and have no cracks or chips.
The connections must have high heat, moisture and noise protection characteristics.
Must ensure the tightness of the window unit from atmospheric influences.
Must protect metal structural elements from corrosion processes that develop due to atmospheric moisture.
It should protect frames and seams from destruction of the polyurethane foam, thereby extending its overall service life.

How to finish external slopes on windows: materials and technologies

A variety of materials are used to finish external slopes on windows. The most popular cladding:

plaster;
plastic;
expanded polystyrene;
metal;
vinyl siding;
drywall;
natural stone;
sandwich panels.

Each of these options has certain advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, before making a final decision, you need to get acquainted with their characteristics.

Average prices for services

The cost of such services depends on the type of finishing material, the condition of the working surface of the walls, the installation area and overhead costs caused by transporting the material.

Prices for installation of slopes for PVC windows depending on the material and depth:

plaster, up to 20 cm, 750 rub./rm;
plaster, up to 40 cm, 870 rub./rm;
plaster more than 40 cm, 1250/ rub./ l.m.;
plasterboard, up to 20 cm, 550 rub./rm;
plasterboard, up to 40 cm, 670 rub./rm;
plasterboard, over 40 cm, 850 rub./rm;
plastic (sandwich panels), up to 20 cm, 900 RUR/rm;
plastic (sandwich panels), up to 40 cm, 1150 RUR/rm;
plastic (sandwich panels), over 40 cm, 1200 rub./rm;
cladding with Euroboard, up to 350mm 1680 RUR/rm;
painting with water-based dyes, up to 400 mm 120 RUR/linear meter;
installation on bay windows, from 750 rub./rm;
installation of white PVC slopes, from 700 rub./running meter;
installation of colored ones, from RUB 1,500/sq.m.;
installation of metal ones, from RUB 1,500/rm;
laminated, up to 20 cm, 1600 RUR/rm;
laminated, up to 40 cm, 2000 rub./linear meter;
laminated, over 40 cm, 2800 rub./rm.

Finishing windows outside the house using plaster

Plastering slopes from the outside is the most economical way to finish slopes. For exterior work, special compositions for facades with thermal insulation additives are recommended.

Note! The solution must completely cover the mounting foam and reach the frame. In this case, the thickness of the layer cannot exceed 2 cm. Therefore, this material is suitable for relatively flat slopes. The resulting coating is carefully sanded and painted.

The material is applied to the prepared surface in several layers, each of which must be allowed to dry thoroughly.

The advantages of this type of finishing include:

fire resistance and strength of the material;
low cost of plaster mixtures and necessary tools;
the ability to perform work independently.

Disadvantages of finishing slopes with plaster:

the process takes a long time - 3-4 days;
the coating gets dirty quickly and cracks may form;
this type of finish has low thermal insulation properties;
performance of work is associated with the formation of large amounts of dust and dirt.

Wet finishing method

This cladding variation is the most traditional and economical option. The simplicity and simplicity of this method makes it possible to plaster and paint the slopes yourself. To finish the surface, you need to prepare a dry mixture based on cement or gypsum. It should be noted that this type of work differs in the duration of the manipulations performed. And also the “fur coat” needs to be dyed periodically.

Before plastering external walls, they should be prepared. Preparation consists of cleaning from dirt, defects, and excess foam. To protect the window, it is recommended to cover the structure with masking tape. Plastering slopes should be done in stages:

The first step is to install the beacons at a distance of up to 5 cm from the window frame; fixation is done with nails.
The thickness of the plaster layer should cover the window by 1 cm. The generally accepted thickening is 2 cm. The corners should be aligned with a square.
After making sure that the opening is clean, it is possible to apply a primer. Priming is intended to improve the adhesion of the plaster to the base.

Puttying external slopes

The cement-gypsum mortar should be applied over the beacons and smoothed with a spatula. Manipulations must be done from the bottom up.
After the first layer has dried, the beacons should be removed, and the locations should be covered and leveled.
1 layer of plaster should not exceed 7 mm. It should be taken into account that it is correct to apply a new layer of plaster only on the dried previous layer. Also, don't forget about angular alignment.
After the plaster has set, the wooden frame is removed, and the defects are covered and smoothed.
You can slightly moisten the coating with a wet rag and remove any imperfections using a grater.
After thorough drying, whitewash or paint is applied.

The window must be closed during work. Because if the mixture penetrates into the fittings, functionality may be impaired. An obvious negative property of the finishing method is the failure to combine the cement mortar with the PVC profile. This contributes to the appearance of a hole between the slope and the frame base. Therefore, the resulting gaps should be sealed with silicone-based sealant.

External window trim with plastic

The use of sheet plastic allows finishing work to be carried out as quickly and accurately as possible. The panels have an aesthetic appearance, they are durable and practical.

They do not require additional finishing, since they are ideally combined with the material of the frames and form a harmonious and complete solution in tandem.

Advantages of PVC slopes:

long service life;
extensive color palette; low thermal conductivity;
no condensation forms;
resistance to moisture and mold formation.

Weaknesses of plastic:

the need for replacement in case of damage - cannot be restored;
low noise and heat insulating properties.

The importance of making the right choice

With proper selection of materials, products fulfill the requirements for them for a long time:

remain resistant to atmospheric influences;
demonstrate adequate adhesive strength;
provide reliable insulation of the room from the penetration of cold and moisture;
retain their performance characteristics for a long time.

But, most importantly, a correctly selected slope allows you to increase the service life of a PVC window and its main parameters.

External window trim with siding

Vinyl siding is ideal for finishing exterior windows. It is presented in the form of hollow plastic panels that are attached to each other using special locking systems. The material allows you to quickly create an aesthetic coating that has a certain level of thermal insulation and soundproofing.

The slats do not require additional finishing or complex maintenance. As additional insulation, it is recommended to fill the space between the siding and the wall with mineral wool or foam, and decorate the joints with decorative corners.

Advantages of vinyl siding:

DIY installation is possible;
slopes are easily cleaned of dust and dirt;
no fungal growths appear on the plastic;
many color options;
will last a long time if handled carefully.

Disadvantages of finishing slopes with siding:

color change may occur with intense exposure to ultraviolet radiation;
insufficient shock resistance.

Other options

Slopes for plastic windows can be made with your own hands and from other materials. One of the most commonly used is wood. Material selection options:

commercially available platbands are attached to the window frame with lining nails;
furniture panels require corners to be decorated with plastic corners;
block house imitating wooden beams or logs, installation is carried out by analogy with plastic panels;
dry, planed and sanded boards.

Repair of existing slopes is carried out in accordance with the characteristics of the material from which they are made, the type and degree of damage. Wooden panels are painted, tinted or varnished. Plastic ones are difficult to repair. They are easier to replace, since a dent, crack or chip in the plastic cannot be corrected. Only camouflage is possible by gluing a patch or decorative element at the location of the flaw.

How to insulate slopes

Slopes are insulated in three ways:

polyurethane foam;
mineral wool;
polystyrene foam.

All these materials must be under the facing panels, so insulation is carried out at the stage of installation of the frame. The technology for performing the work is the same for external and internal openings.

According to the step-by-step instructions for installing plasterboard slopes, a frame is made from metal profiles or wooden blocks.
The cavities between the slats are filled with insulation - mineral wool or polystyrene foam. When using the latter, the gaps between the PPS and the frame are eliminated using polyurethane foam. Mineral wool is laid close to the frame.
Cover the slopes with facing material. To finish the window opening on the street side, choose metal trim or plastic sandwich panels.

If you want to insulate the slopes, you need to do this before installing them.

You can make slopes for plastic windows yourself in different ways. All types of work are accessible to beginners and do not require special knowledge and skills

It is important to familiarize yourself in advance with the features of each design option for a window opening on the outside and inside of the room. Assess your situation and choose the most appropriate method

The provided step-by-step instructions will help you complete the task quickly and accurately.

External window trim with plasterboard

Another inexpensive option is finishing with plasterboard. Typically this material is used for interior work due to insufficient moisture resistance. But it is also quite suitable for cladding external slopes if the windows overlook a glazed loggia, balcony or terrace. Moisture-resistant drywall is suitable for these purposes.

It allows you to quickly create a perfectly flat surface, which facilitates the process of applying plaster. Before installing the slabs, it is necessary to thoroughly treat the surface with an antibacterial compound.

Advantages of finishing with plasterboard:

Affordable price of material;
Easy installation;
Light weight, which makes work easier;
Good thermal insulation ability.

Disadvantages of finishing slopes with plasterboard:

Low strength - even a not very strong blow can lead to the formation of potholes, dents and chips;
Low moisture resistance.

TOP mixtures for external and internal application

Which one is better can be found out from the TOP list of plaster compositions for application outside and inside the house on window slopes:

Gypsum plaster Knauf Rotband. The composition is used to perform internal work on leveling slopes. This is a lightweight composition that ensures a strong connection to the base. The cost of 5 kg of the mixture is 173 rubles.
Gypsum plaster Bergauf Aqua Putz. The composition is suitable for internal treatment of slopes in premises. Can be applied to drywall, brick, aerated concrete blocks and concrete. A mixture of 25 kg costs 315 rubles.
Decorative plaster VOLMA Decor is presented to create unusual textured effects. The composition includes fractions measuring 0.2 mm. The cost is 368 rubles per 12 kg.
Cement plaster VOLMA Aquacanvas. Can be applied to ceramic bricks, concrete and aerated concrete blocks. The mixture is suitable for both interior and exterior use. The price is 317 rubles for a volume of 25 kg.
Universal mixture “Stone Flower M150”. The composition is intended for plastering slopes both indoors and outdoors. The cost is 113 rubles per 25 kg.

Note. The exact choice depends on the location of application, microclimate parameters of the room or the possibility of performing external work.

Finishing slopes with sandwich panels outside the window

For facing slopes, three-layer plastic panels, 10 mm thick, with a “filling” of foamed or extruded polystyrene are used. They have low thermal conductivity and do not require additional finishing. The plastic used as outer layers is similar in color and appearance to the window profile.

The fixed panels must be protected from moisture with a plastic corner. This will not only preserve the integrity of the material and prevent it from delaminating, but will also give the structure a finished and aesthetic appearance.

Advantages of sandwich panels for window finishing:

Long service life - around 25 years.
Easy care.
Fast and easy installation – in 1 day.
Light weight.
High moisture resistance.
Resistant to ultraviolet radiation and high temperatures.
Good soundproofing ability.
High thermal insulation characteristics - additional insulation, for example, mineral wool, as is the case with conventional plastic panels, is not required.
A wide selection of different colors, as well as surfaces imitating natural wood or stone.

Disadvantages of sandwich panels:

with prolonged exposure to high temperatures, the color of the product may change;
difficulties during transportation due to the impressive size of the panels.

Types of plaster

To get the maximum benefit from upgrading newly installed plastic windows in terms of heating and achieving maximum comfort, you should first take a closer look at special heat and sound insulating plaster. It has high reflective properties due to the use of natural raw materials as components - vermiculite, perlite and their mixture with durable gypsum.

The scheme for preparing a solution for plaster is quite simple - you need to buy one of the above building mixtures and dilute it with water, mixing smoothly and thoroughly. The consistency of the finished solution should not be very liquid, otherwise the plaster will start to flow right on the slopes, but it should not be too thick and stretchy - such a solution will be very difficult to work with, and it will set too quickly.

Bags of mixtures usually indicate the optimal ratio of components when preparing the solution, so we advise you to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. It will also indicate for what area this amount of mixture will be calculated for this preparation of the solution, therefore, having previously found out the approximate area of work (with a small margin), you can calculate how much of the mixture needs to be purchased.

Finishing slopes outside windows with foam plastic

Slopes covered with foam plastic will save heat in the house and protect from external noise. And it is not at all necessary to reinforce the slabs, cover them with several layers of plaster and paint them. Customers are offered modern material with a waterproof coating of marble chips and acrylic binders. This layer has sufficient strength and flexibility at the same time.

The coating does not crack or crumble. The material is produced in the form of ready-made thermal slopes - corner elements, 2 cm thick. Corners can be used for insulation in combination with thermal panels or separately. You can bend the slabs yourself to form corners using special devices for cutting polystyrene.

Foam slopes protect against:

street noise and cold;
dampness and mold;
the need for frequent repairs - thermal slopes have rounded smooth corners, which will not cause chips.

The undoubted advantages of the material are the ease of its installation, the simplicity of calculating the number of elements required for finishing, and the original appearance of the window composition.

Note! Thermal corners with the addition of flexible clinker are perfect for decorating window and door openings of a private brick house.

Decorative elements for window framing

Agree, you won’t surprise anyone today with ordinary slopes. How then can you improve the appearance of your home? For these purposes, various elements and techniques are used that can be combined with the previously described types of slopes.

You can frame the windows polyurethane linings. They are installed with glue, so you need to ensure a level base with good adhesion. They are also suitable for brick walls.

Polyurethane pads
Smooth plastered slopes will serve as an excellent basis for finishing with various decorative materials. The photo shows an option for decorating the outside of a window with decorative artificial stone. Clinker and porcelain tiles will also look beautiful. Decorative stone cladding
Extruded expanded polystyrene is also used for similar purposes. Such systems consist of corner elements and a straight profile. Everything is put on glue. You can choose any color from those available, or paint the material yourself.

Foam frame
In cases of façade renovation using decorative brickwork, the windows can be lined separately with shaped products to give them an unusual, beautiful look.

The perimeter of the windows is lined with figured bricks
You can use the services of professional craftsmen who can create masterpieces like this for an expensive price. stucco moldings. Such windows look very beautiful, luxurious and rich.

Stucco around the window
Sandrik - This is a small architectural element above the window that can be made of concrete, plaster, polyurethane and foam. The difficulty of installing the part depends on the material

Above the window there is a decorative element - sandrik
Pyramidal or wedge-shaped decorative element, made from the same materials. Installed at the top of a vault or arch, above the window.

Keystone at the top of the window
You can install it under the window false baluster.

Baluster falsehood

It is worth noting that determining the necessary decorative elements is quite a complex matter. If you overdo it, then instead of beauty you will end up with wild pretentiousness and bad taste, so do not be afraid to consult professionals. Of course, they charge money for their services, but remember that you are creating the appearance of the house and will be looking at it for many years, and only positive emotions should arise from contemplation for you and the audience.

External window trim with metal slopes

Choosing metal as a finishing material for external window slopes is a reliable, aesthetic, and durable solution. This is a durable coating that is not afraid of either moisture or sudden temperature changes. Iron will perfectly protect against cold and noise, and thanks to a special anti-corrosion coating it will serve for many years.

The variety of shades offered will allow you to choose a harmonious frame for any window that will successfully fit into the facade of any color. Advantages of metal slopes:

They have unsurpassed resistance to atmospheric precipitation.
Serve as reliable protection against mechanical damage to walls.
They are distinguished by their solidity and aesthetic appearance.
They are quick and easy to install and do not require complex maintenance.

The only disadvantage of such structures is their relatively high cost. But during operation you will not have to regularly invest in their repairs.

Necessary materials

After the installation of slopes, some materials do not have a factory decorative coating, which leads to the need for their external finishing in accordance with the architectural solutions of the facades.

Decorative plaster composition

An excellent solution for buildings made of brick or other types of stone materials , it is applied around the perimeter of the opening, as well as in places where the façade part of the translucent structure is framed. It can have a thickness from 30 to 60 mm, can be easily dressed, rusticated, fluted, and can have a figured surface of “bark beetle”, “fur coat”, “shagreen” and other types.

Scope of application: all types of stone private and multi-apartment buildings, with rough framing of slopes made of building bricks, foam blocks or monolithic reinforced concrete.

Advantages:

additional insulation;
excellent visual characteristics;
increased strength and reliability.

Flaws:

high cost of materials for their installation;
increased complexity of the work package.

Pigment substances

Weather-resistant pigment compositions designed to set the desired shade of the rough surface of the slope, as well as to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.

Note. Apply on a primed and prepared surface, in 2 - 3 passes, according to the instructions.

Scope of application: any building and structure for which cement-sand plaster was used as the primary finishing of the frame of the openings.

Advantages:

ease of application;
wide variety of shades and surface types.

Flaws:

over time it begins to fade and peel off;
requires periodic care and restoration.

Exterior strips

Designed to cover elements of rough finishing and insulation, they can have any shape, texture and shade of the front edge, are characterized by low dead weight, ease of installation - they are attached to adhesives or mechanical hardware.

Scope of application:

office and shopping centers;
auxiliary buildings;
technical structures.

Advantages:

low cost;
attractive appearance;
ease of installation.

Flaws:

significantly reduce the cost of the façade;
not suitable for stone materials;
practically not used in residential buildings;
are easily subject to deformation.

Important. When choosing finishing materials, it is recommended to pay attention only to weather-resistant compounds from trusted manufacturers, whose products have many positive reviews on independent forums on the Internet.

Finishing window slopes with natural stone

Finishing from natural stone is an impeccable, stylish and sophisticated appearance of the slopes, unsurpassed durability and guaranteed strength. The variety of materials offered - shell rock, sandstone, limestone, dolomite, wild stone - provides ample opportunities for implementing a wide variety of design ideas.

The stone retains its original impeccable appearance for many years. It is very easy to maintain and does not require additional investments.

Stone products are not afraid of:

sudden temperature changes;
exposure to directed sunlight;
interactions with aggressive chemical compounds;
mechanical influences.

The only disadvantage of this type of finishing is its high cost. But if you calculate the amount of time that a stone coating will last, its purchase will seem more than practical and cost-effective.

How to insulate window slopes from the outside

Insulation of slopes helps retain heat in the room and prevents an increase in humidity inside the room.

Let's consider possible insulation options that are advisable to use in this case:

mineral wool – is moisture resistant, provides thermal insulation for the window and reliably protects against the penetration of external noise. The insulation must be fixed to a special mesh that is glued to the wall;
polystyrene foam – has good heat and sound insulating properties, easy to install. You can purchase ready-made foam slopes. Mounted on metal profiles;
expanded polystyrene - a waterproof cellular material with high thermal insulation properties;
Sandwich panels are an option for finishing, endowed with heat-insulating properties - the middle layer is made of extruded polystyrene foam.

Frame-type slopes

So, if plaster is a continuous covering of a slope, then there is also a frame type, when there is empty space inside that can be additionally insulated. The choice of material for such solutions directly depends on the type of building cladding. Slopes can be made of plastic, wooden lining, vinyl or metal siding, window profile, metal cassette element. The installation of these materials is almost identical, so we did not separate them.

View the following photographs showing similar slopes.

Metal cassettes with matching façade cladding

Slopes made of wooden lining Slopes made of siding with external framing

Special window profile

Slopes made of plastic with a metallic sheen

Each of the listed materials has its own set of characteristics, but none of them provides the window system with additional thermal protection, like special compositions of plaster mixtures. However, there are methods for insulating such slopes: the internal space is filled with polyurethane foam or mineral wool.

External insulation of window slopes and walls

Installation proceeds according to the following scheme:

A frame is exposed, which can be external and internal, or only external. In the first case, a belt of slats or metal profiles is attached near the window frame and the same along the outer perimeter of the slope. In the second - only the outer element - the inner one is replaced with a starting profile, which is attached directly to the frame. The last solution is suitable for plastic and thin lining.
All frame elements are set clearly in level, since they completely determine the geometry of the future slope.
They are attached differently, depending on the material. Most often, anchors and metal hangers are used as fasteners.
The finishing material is installed according to the fastening scheme of the specific material. For example, wooden lining can be held in place by nails and self-tapping screws directly or through metal clamps, and siding is held in place by self-tapping screws and a special fastening profile.
The outer corner of the slope is covered with a decorative element. Usually these are overhead corners, examples of which you could see in the photographs shown above.

Determining the width of the slope Galvanized profile frame

Sheathing for lining

Slopes made of fiber cement siding can also be installed over the lathing.
Making a frame slope is much easier than a plaster slope, and in 90% of cases it does not require additional processing. The product begins its service life immediately after installation. Everything would be great, but not every material will last long. Painted elements fade over time in the sun, wood can rot and change color. You can repeat the coloring, but it will not look like the factory one, and the slopes will definitely lose their attractiveness. But plaster surfaces can be renewed an unlimited number of times.

Video - Slope made of plastic panels

Finishing windows from the outside with plaster: step-by-step instructions for completing the work

External slopes should be plastered immediately after the polyurethane foam has hardened.

Important! It is necessary to completely exclude the possibility of environmental factors affecting its integrity.

Materials and tools for doing your own work

The speed and efficiency of work depends not only on the skill of the master, but also on the availability of all the necessary materials and tools. So prepare them ahead of time so you have them all on hand.

You will need:

container for preparing plaster mixture;
construction mixer or drill with a special attachment for mixing components;
a set of spatulas of various widths. You will also need a corner option;
Master OK;
building level;
square;
wide brush with soft bristles;
plaster grater;
building mixture for facade work;
putty for exterior use;
decorative plaster;
fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
primer solution.

Consumables and components

To install external slopes, the master will need the following materials, consumables and components (in addition to the framing elements of the façade edge of the window opening):

Polyurethane foam for filling the space between the flashings and the end of the opening.
Adhesive compositions for fixing sandwich panels.
Silicone or acrylic weatherproof sealants.
Blind rivets with powder-coated head.
Self-tapping screws with drilling tips.
PSUL tape with self-adhesive back side.
Plastic or wooden dowels for arranging seats for self-tapping screws.
Decorative plaster and facade paint.

Important. All materials must meet their shelf life and meet the requirements for slopes to ensure durability, which will be no less than that of the translucent structure itself.

Tools

When installing external slopes, owners of residential properties also need to stock up on the following set of tools :

For measuring the opening and marking:
Joiner's angle for controlling the orthogonality of the opening.
Laser or bubble level to check the mounting plane.
When installing slopes on a panoramic window, use a plumb line with a weight to ensure the verticality of the plane.
Marker for marking before cutting.
To prepare the opening plane for installation slope:
Drill with mixer attachment for mixing ingredients.
Galvanized steel profile for temporarily setting the perimeter of applying plaster.
Spatula for basting the finished mixture.
Rule or trowel board for smoothing the material.
For cutting slopes:
Grinder with abrasive disc.
Circular saw with locking frame.
Electric jigsaw for cutting wood frame elements.
A construction knife with a retractable blade or utility scissors, if necessary, for trimming plastic slopes.
For applying structural elements of plaster frames:
Trowel with replaceable abrasives.
Textural rule, if it is necessary to specify rustication during the application and finishing of plaster.
For installation factory-made slopes:
Drill with a set of drills for making holes.
A screwdriver with different bits for fixing screws.
Phillips or slotted screwdriver for tightening hardware.
A hammer with a rubber striker for adjusting the position of framing elements.
Pliers for bending corners, if minor adjustments are necessary for galvanized parts or subsystems.
For finishing slopes:
Sponge for applying penetrating primer.
Grinding disk attachment for drill.
Gun for polyurethane foam, as well as for silicone or acrylic frost-resistant sealant.
Rags for cleaning slopes upon completion of their installation.

Important. All tools listed above must be of high quality, in good working order, sharpened, cleaned of old dirt and ready for use.

Finishing slopes with plaster: selection and preparation of plaster mixture

As the main material for plaster, you can use a regular sand-cement mixture. However, this composition is not durable and does not have “insulating” properties. Therefore, for such work, special facade plaster is better suited, preferably “warm”.

In addition to cement and gypsum, such materials contain reinforcing components, bulk insulation materials of natural origin and plasticizers.

Such mixtures have good waterproofing and soundproofing characteristics. Ready-made compositions have good adhesion. Due to its homogeneity and fine consistency, the solution adheres well to the surface. Of course, such a mixture is more expensive than concrete mortar, but not much of it is needed to design the slopes.

Helpful advice! If the material contains gypsum, careful adherence to the instructions for preparing the solution is a prerequisite for maintaining the characteristics of the material. In addition, gypsum hardens quickly, so it is better to mix the mixture in small portions.

Step-by-step process for plastering slopes with your own hands:

We clear the slopes of old plaster. It is advisable to completely get rid of the remnants of the coating, in which cracks may subsequently appear.
If the cleaned surface turns out to be too smooth, it is necessary to increase its adhesive characteristics using notches.
Remove dust from the surface.
We apply the first – starting layer of plaster and level it with the rule.
It is recommended to apply several thin layers to the upper slope.
We form a beautiful corner using an angle spatula.
Glue the reinforcing mesh.
Level the surface with putty and apply a primer.
Apply the finishing layer of material and paint. You can use decorative plaster.

Possible difficulties and errors

Despite the fact that modern building materials simplify this work as much as possible, inexperienced performers often make mistakes, after which the slopes quickly become unusable, do not fulfill their protective and decorative functions, so this work has to be done again.

The main difficulties and errors in installing street slopes on PVC windows:

The wrong material was selected and is not intended for outdoor installation.
The dimensions of the parts and sheathing are incorrectly measured, as a result, cracks form in the joints, and the horizontal and vertical positions are not maintained.
The surface for installation is poorly prepared.
The installation of the window, window sill and ebb was not completed.
The order of installation is broken, they start from the top and secure it with the sides.
The upper slope is not additionally reinforced; it bends and falls during installation.
Excess foam has not been removed, which prevents the corners and profiles from being tightly fixed.
The side elements were not additionally pressed.
Excess foam was not removed from the surface of the elements with a clean rag and a special cleaning liquid; yellow stains appeared on the outer surface of the slopes.
The connecting seams were not sealed with acrylic sealant.
Inaccurate application of sealants, the outer surface is damaged; experts recommend performing this work with a small brush.
The slope was not thermally protected before installing the metal panel.

Finishing slopes from the outside with polystyrene foam: step-by-step instructions for completing the work

Finishing slopes with polystyrene foam allows you to simultaneously level and insulate the openings. For this, slabs with a thickness of 15-20 mm are used. When working with this material, it is necessary that the surface be as smooth as possible. Expanded polystyrene is not flexible, but, on the contrary, has increased rigidity and fragility. Therefore, on significant protrusions it may crack or even break. The advantage of this finishing method is that you don’t need to have deep construction knowledge to perform it and you can do the installation yourself. To carry out the work you will need:

knife for cutting polystyrene foam boards;
mixer for preparing tile adhesive;
a set of different-sized spatulas;
construction square, ruler;
level; polystyrene foam 15-20 mm thick;
tile adhesive suitable for outdoor use;
plaster mesh;
metal perforated corners.

Steps for finishing slopes outside a window with your own hands:

We properly prepare the surface - clean it from dust and cement mortar residues, cover existing cracks and crevices with putty or cement.
We cut out the parts of future slopes from foam plastic and connect them together with glue.
Apply glue to the surface and fix the prepared parts. You should not save glue, as voids may form between the slopes and the polystyrene foam. It is better to remove excess composition with a rag. During the gluing process, check the correct installation using a level. After the glue has dried, you can further secure the material with dowels. It is better to drill holes in advance or a couple of hours after gluing the boards. The main thing is to prevent the foam from moving.
Apply glue to the surface on which the window sill will be installed.
The next stage is to apply a starting layer of putty, carefully covering all joints and cracks. We apply a sickle mesh.
We install the perforated corners and apply a finishing layer of putty.
After drying, the surface can be painted with facade paint. It should be applied in several layers.

Helpful advice! Before applying paint, cover the glass along the contour with strips of masking tape. This will protect the window from getting paint, and will save you from tedious scrubbing of splashes.

Window trim with polystyrene foam outside the house.

List of preparatory works

Measuring, installing and adjusting plastic windows is carried out by specialized teams, which is the key to the correct implementation of all technological measures and entitles the customer to warranty service. But such operations as installing slopes of plastic windows, if desired, can be performed on your own.

Slopes come in various types, and may differ in color, shape, and materials from which they are made.

The most common materials used for the production of window slopes are the following:

However, plastic slopes have proven themselves to be the best. This is due to the fact that as a result of installing such slopes, a single structure is obtained, ideal for decorating any room.

Also, a significant advantage of such slopes is their low cost, durability, high speed of installation work (3-4 hours), ease of maintenance, and the ability to choose any color segment.

So, after the metal-plastic window has been installed and at least 36 hours have passed (the period of complete hardening of the polyurethane foam), you can install plastic slopes for windows.

First you need to decide on the list of necessary materials and tools required for such work.

Firstly, you need to purchase the plastic itself, and it is best to give preference to high-quality and durable products. The initial cost savings when purchasing a cheap (Chinese) product may result in additional costs associated with repairing damaged elements.

That is, when choosing plastic panels for future slopes, you need to make sure of the following:

In addition, the thickness of the plastic should not be less than 8 millimeters, and the lengths of the panels (cut in the store) should be equal to the specified dimensions of the opening in height and width (plus a five-centimeter margin). Accordingly, the width of the plastic panel should be at least 1 cm greater than the depth of the slope.

By the way, when cutting panels, you should take into account that most often they are 6 m long and 0.25 or 0.38 m wide. Therefore, before ordering and cutting the material, it is advisable to calculate the length of the blanks in order to eliminate the purchase of excess.

As for the color of the plastic panels, it all depends on the user’s preferences, but it should still be understood that white material is best suited for solving the tasks at hand, as it fits better with the window and window sill, and traces of dust are less visible on it.

Secondly, the following building materials will be required:

starting strip, F-shaped profile, polyurethane foam, cement mortar, silicone, small screws (bugs), tape, paper clips, insulation.

And when ordering the listed items, there are also certain nuances:

Starting line. Usually sold in 6-meter lengths and selected based on the thickness of the plastic. The strip is cut based on the actual dimensions of the window opening (near the window area). F - shaped profile.

Usually sold in 6 meters. The strip is cut based on the actual dimensions of the window opening (near the wall area) + 7cm is added for vertical stripes and 15cm for horizontal stripes.

Polyurethane foam

It is very important to use foam under the mounting gun, and order material with minimal expansion (foam manufacturers such as MAKROFLEX and TITANIUM have proven themselves to be excellent for the manufacture of plastic slopes)

Read about how to choose foam and what material characteristics to pay attention to here. The tools you need to have are a hammer, a drill or a screwdriver with a bit for self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, a gun for silicone and polyurethane foam, a trowel, a spatula, a tape measure, and a rag.

The tools you need to have are a hammer, a drill or a screwdriver with a bit for self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, a gun for silicone and polyurethane foam, a trowel, a spatula, a tape measure, and a rag.

When all the necessary attributes have been prepared, you can begin the procedure for finishing the slopes of plastic windows.

Window finishing with plasterboard or sandwich panels

The technique for finishing slopes with these materials is similar. The difference is that drywall requires finishing, while sandwich panels do not need it. Therefore, they are ready for use immediately after installation.

Window finishing scheme with sandwich panels.

To work you need:

sandwich panels or sheets of plasterboard (moisture resistant);
L-shaped profile - metal or plastic;
glue;
external perforated corner or F-shaped profile for decorating a protruding corner of slopes; construction knife - for cutting panels;
level;
screwdriver or drill;
ruler;
construction square;
marker.

Finishing slopes with sandwich panels, instructions for doing the work yourself

Clean the surface. We remove dust, fragments of crumbled plaster, and drops of mortar. We prime the surface and treat it with an antibacterial compound. You can use the product two in one. You must wait until the surface is completely dry.
Starting profiles are fixed to the frame, into which plastic or plasterboard panels will subsequently be installed. The profile is installed around the entire perimeter of the window using self-tapping screws. Fasteners are installed in increments of 20-25 cm. Depending on the selected material, the required profile width is selected.
A wooden batten is mounted along the outer corner of the slopes. Its width is 10-12 cm, thickness - 1-1.2 cm. This rail acts as a leveling bar onto which the outer profile is fixed. It will hide the distance between the wall and the finishing material, and will also hide the unsightly edge of the panel. The profile consists of two elements. One of them is attached to a wooden strip, the second - to the end of the slab. They are connected using a locking system - tongue and groove. In the case of drywall, you can install a regular corner.
We install the insulation - mineral wool is fixed with glue in such a way that its thickness changes. We place thicker material closer to the frame, and thinner material along the outer border. If foam is used as insulation, apply it directly to the panel before installation. Here it is important not to “overdo it” with the amount of foam - there may be too much of it and then it will inflate. And if it gets on the outside, it will not be easy to remove. We fix the internal corner profile to the upper end of the side parts using sealant. It serves to connect horizontal and vertical panels. We install the side plates. We apply a layer of foam to the top horizontal panel, insert it into the grooves of the corner profiles and press well. We decorate the end of the top plate using an F-profile or a decorative corner.
We fix the internal corner profile to the upper end of the side parts using sealant. It serves to connect horizontal and vertical panels.
Installing the side plates.
We apply a layer of foam to the top horizontal panel, insert it into the grooves of the corner profiles and press well.
We decorate the end of the top plate using an F-profile or a decorative corner.

Here it is important not to “overdo” the amount of foam - there can be too much of it and then it will swell. And if it gets on the outside, it will not be easy to remove.

Finishing slopes with plasterboard panels instructions

Sheathing slopes with gypsum board slabs is even easier, since there are several options for fastening them:

on the sheathing - with a sufficient width of the slope;
to a special profile;
directly to the wall - if the latter has a relatively flat surface.

Note! During installation, the screws are screwed directly through the slab. Their caps do not need to be masked, since the material will require finishing in any case. Layers of putty and paint will reliably hide the joints and fasteners.

If you plan to make “warm” slopes, mineral wool is laid according to the same principle as in the previous version. Foam can be introduced through holes that are drilled after the panels are installed. Drywall needs reinforcement, so at the puttying stage it is strengthened with a painting mesh.

Installation

finishing the slopes of windows from the outside with plastic panels begins with preparing the surface - cleaning it and sealing the cracks;
measurements are taken on each side, the side fragments are measured in two places - at the window and at the wall due to the presence of a slope;
the perimeter of the window opening is framed with wooden slats, to which the starting profile is attached using a construction stapler. A plastic element will go into it;
corners are formed using an f-shaped profile or external slopes with platbands are arranged.

Installation diagram of a plastic slope
Considering the existing disadvantages of this material, it is better to use it for interior work.

Basic rules and possible problems associated with improper finishing of external slopes

The main rule, the observance of which will allow you to avoid problems when operating plastic windows and doors, is timely finishing of external slopes.

Note! It is unacceptable to leave seams open for a long time. Under the influence of moisture and ultraviolet radiation, the foam crumbles, collapses and, as a result, loses its insulating properties.

There are a number of installation errors that can lead to undesirable consequences. The most common mistakes:

excessive removal of polyurethane foam from the seam;
too rigid fixation of panels to the profile;
use of unsuitable materials for lining the opening.

What consequences might the above shortcomings entail?

Mistakes can cause foam destruction, wall shedding and, as a result, moisture penetration and fungus formation despite regular ventilation. Some problems may appear within a few days, while others may not become apparent until several months later.

It is impossible to determine the exact cause of their occurrence without violating the integrity of the slopes. But some signs that mistakes were made when finishing the opening can be determined by education:

condensate;
ice in winter;
whistling and howling wind

Preparing the window opening

External slopes made of any material will be of high quality and beautiful if the opening is properly prepared.

Preparation includes the following operations:

Removing damaged and protruding sections of the window opening. This operation is easily performed using a chisel.

Cutting off excess polyurethane foam sealing the window unit.

Cleaning the surface adjacent to the window frame from flaking fragments (paint, whitewash).
Surface primer. For these purposes, antiseptics or deep penetration primers are used.

Advice!
It is better to remove the protective film on the plastic window after finishing the installation of the slopes.