Today, PVC window sills are gaining more and more popularity, the advantage of which is moisture resistance and a coating that does not need to be painted. Moreover, the width of such window sills is up to 1000 mm. both colored and white, with a matte and glossy surface, this makes it possible to install PVC window sills on any window.
As for the installation process, there is nothing complicated here, but you still need to read the detailed instructions before installation.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a PVC window sill
A window in an apartment, be it plastic or wooden, without such an element as a window sill, looks unattractive and bad.
Therefore, architects provide this element in every house. When replacing a window, the board underneath is always replaced. As a rule, the installation of a window sill is carried out by specialists, but you can do the work yourself. The main thing is to do everything according to the rules. Before installing a plastic window sill, you should read the instructions for the entire process.
Window sill-tabletop in a nursery, office, bathroom
The shortest way to rationally organize space, freeing up precious square centimeters for games, arranging furniture and unhindered movement.
A window sill-tabletop in a room intended for sleeping, working, receiving guests and even hygiene will serve as a decorative element and a good help for placing household appliances, electronics, stationery, books, and household chemicals.
A corner table-window sill is a great idea for arranging a student’s workplace. Bookshelves, a chest of drawers, and a closet are successfully combined into a single system. If there is an acute shortage of space, the writing surface can be made folding or retractable.
In the living room, a tabletop under the window sill will hide the central heating radiator, and on the sides you can install a false fireplace and other structures that decorate and structure the space.
Free call to a surveyor
In order to understand the cost of plastic windows on a bay window, you need to invite our engineer
WHS Halo 60
An inexpensive option for glazing multi-storey buildings. It is 100% worth the investment in it.
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WHS Halo 72
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VEKA Mira
Refinement and perfection in everything, unsurpassed protection from bad weather, a worthy profile from VEKA.
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VEKA Softline 82
Premium line of the Century model range, single-plane Softline system, one of the warmest windows.
Installation stages
Regardless of what material the window sill is installed on a plastic window, the installation process is carried out using identical technology. The main feature of this method is its simplicity and the lack of special skills. How to install a plastic window sill correctly or how to install a wooden one? The choice of material is directly influenced by the strength indicator, since this indicator is different for PVC and wood products. You can achieve high strength and reliability of wooden and plastic window sills during the installation process. Correct and competent installation of the window sill with your own hands will prevent its subsequent sagging and deformation.
Structure of a plastic window structure
Installation of different types of window sills on plastic windows
You should understand in more detail how to install window sills on plastic windows, and a step-by-step description of the work will help with this:
- The first and mandatory step is to thoroughly clean the working surface on which the workpiece will be mounted from construction debris and dust.
The surface on which the window sill will be installed must be clear of debris. To perform further actions, you will need a building level to help determine how level the surface is. If there are irregularities, the workpiece is aligned using wedges and beacons. In order to install a wooden or plastic window sill, special glue or mortar is used, which is laid out on the work surface immediately after preparation. The board is placed on fresh mortar and pressed down firmly. In order to secure a large-width window sill, mechanical supports are used - brackets screwed with screws. The number of elements securing the board depends on its length and the strength of the material.
MOELLER Connector (Joint) for Window Sill, 90/135 degrees, Marble, 490 mm.
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Moeller connecting profile for Window Sill Light Marble - Designed for connecting a section of window sill board in the corners and along the length. Serves for aesthetic decoration of the window sill during installation.
MOELLER Connector (Joint) for Window Sill,
90/135 degrees, Marble, 490 mm.
Plastic windows cannot be considered an annual purchase. They are installed for several decades, so it is very important to think through every little detail. One of the most important aspects of installing window units is the installation of window sills. The window sill is the main component of the window. In addition to a purely functional task, it also has an aesthetic function.
This means that they must be not only durable and reliable, but also beautiful. It should be noted that Moeller window sills are highly resistant to moisture, easy to maintain and can withstand almost any load. Some consider the window sill to be an ordinary, no-frills board. Of course, this is not entirely true. To make the window sill look stylish and harmonious, it must be equipped with end (side) plugs. After the window sill is cut to your size, it takes on a not very attractive appearance and can spoil the design of the apartment. That's why end caps are needed. Today, plugs can be matched to the color of the window sill - from white to imitating valuable wood species.
All of our end caps and connectors are made from 100% ABS plastic, which will not yellow over time and will retain its original color for many years. End caps serve not only a decorative function. The end caps are installed with special glue immediately after sawing off the window sill. Typically, they have two universal edges, ideal for both the right and left sides of the window sill. Therefore, when installing a window sill, installing plugs will not be a problem. In addition to the end (side) plugs, connectors (joints) for window sills are also used during installation, which are also selected to match the color. If you need to make a corner connection between two window sill boards (for example, when installing a window sill in a bay window), then you can use a universal corner connector designed for joining window sills at different angles. The connector for window sills is used to connect window sills when installing bay windows, on loggias and balconies when joining long window sills or when installing corner frames. We offer you a Möller window sill connector with a 30 mm capinos. Connector length 490 mm.
Materials, tools
No matter how trivial it may sound, not a single type of repair work can be done without them, which means you will have to gather a whole “army” in one place (near the window). You need to prepare:
- plastic window sill;
- two covers (end caps) for it;
- sealant (silicone, acrylic) for seams, joints;
- stationery knife;
- marker, tape measure;
- hammer, chisel;
- polyurethane foam, gun;
- square, level;
- cement mortar (possibly).
Serious tools will require a hammer drill, a screwdriver, and a jigsaw. To cut the material, in addition to a jigsaw, use a grinder, a hacksaw or a cordless saw, if available. You will also need self-tapping screws.
Installation of a plastic structure
The easiest way to work is to fix the window sill on the mounting foam using wooden or plastic stands, which are necessary to level the board. For a small window, two elements will be enough; for a balcony opening, three linings are needed. The first operation is trying on the product, which is performed armed with a level.
The wedges are made in such a size that the window sill fits exactly between them and the lower edge of the frame. Each workpiece is leveled, then the angle of inclination necessary to prevent the accumulation of moisture is set. It is 1-2°. The correctness of the values is checked in the corners of the opening and in the middle of the window sill. Mounting pressure plates are attached to the stand profile; an alternative is long screws.
After processing the supports, I install a plastic panel, then level it horizontally. The product is removed from the protective film where it will adjoin the slopes, plugs are attached to the ends, and the panel is inserted into place. Lightly tapping it until it stops. Then the position is tested again with a level: both longitudinal and transverse, the minimum error towards the room in this case is not a crime.
During installation work on a balcony (loggia), there is no reliable support, so such a window sill is mounted exclusively on brackets, which are mounted either on a stand profile or on the wall using self-tapping screws equipped with press washers. Their minimum quantity is 4 pieces, the maximum distance between elements is 250 mm. In order to ensure the reliability of the structure, the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws to the frame.
Installation work with PVC structures - how to connect a plastic window sill?
Sometimes the opinion is expressed that a plastic window sill is just an element of the interior, and therefore it only affects the decor and design features. However, any specialist will refute this point of view, because this element of the window system bears a lot of responsibility. To achieve the desired result, you need to figure out how to connect the plastic window sill during installation.
To understand exactly what loads it is subjected to, it is enough to remember exactly how they are used:
- Convenient tabletop for work or relaxation.
- Work surface for household appliances.
- A place for a “green” corner.
If you want to create a convenient and high-quality window at home, then you should look through the catalogs, and you can find out the cost and other information by calling +7 (499) 391-14-07 or.
Technical characteristics of any plastic structure.
When installing various elements of a window system, many different requirements must be taken into account. First of all, this concerns ensuring high strength and durability, and for this you need to select structures that can provide sufficient rigidity. However, in addition to this, we should not forget that any window sill affects the heating of the room. It is this that forms the air flow rising from the radiators.
Correct selection of the plastic model and compliance with all requirements directly during installation ensure high performance in the future. The main problems with non-compliance are:
- Violation of strength and rigidity.
- Formation of condensation on glass.
- Loosening of the structure in various places.
- Excessive heating from the radiator and a decrease in the overall heating quality.
If such problems are observed, then it is worth planning repair work. Now it is quite easy and quick to correct the situation and achieve a prompt solution to the problem.
Features of installation and connection of window sills.
Plastic structures are made by extrusion. Different enterprises use approximately the same production technology, which makes it possible to obtain universal windows. Thanks to this, the installation of window sills is practically carried out according to the same instructions.
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Installation of window sills
Forms and formats General data Processing
Application area
Window sills are intended for interior spaces, as well as for wet rooms (bathroom, kitchen, etc.)
Sealed cut edges
Sealed edging of window sill cuts, under normal conditions, is not mandatory (necessary).
Exception: When installing window sills in a room with high humidity or constant exposure to moisture (for example, a swimming pool), all sections must be hermetically sealed with special mastic from Werzalit.
Linear expansion
When attaching the window sill, it is necessary to take into account that when moisture is absorbed, it can lengthen (from 1 to 3 mm), for example, through drilled holes or holes on which consoles are attached. On the sides in the area of connection with the wall, it is necessary to leave a distance to lengthen the joints.
ATTENTION : walls and structures located between the window sills should not be crushed!!!! It is necessary to leave a gap of up to 3 mm between the joints of the slope and the window sill!!!
Observe size limit
When installing a window sill in a groove (in a window frame), the window sill on the reverse side must be folded in order to even out any possible thickening.
Laying
The window sill must be laid horizontally. A drop (tilt) back to the window frame is not permissible.
Care and cleaning
To clean the window sill, you can use any household cleaning products, with the exception of caustic, bleaching, and polishing agents.
Treatment
Any ordinary working tools.
Circular saw
The optimal saw speed is 5 m/min. The decorative side should be on top. A saw made of hard metal with a large number of teeth. Elevation of the circular saw part above the work table max. 10 mm. For example, a saw with a diameter of 300 mm, variable teeth 96 pcs or inclined teeth - 60 pcs. Cutting speed approximately 60 m/sec depending on the number of revolutions and saw diameter, for example 4000 U/min, 300 mm diameter.
Tooth shape
teeth (HZ), variable teeth (WZ), backward inclined teeth (HZ – DZ).
Hand sawing:
The window sill should be positioned with the decorative side down. Hand saws should have well-sharpened and finely spaced teeth.
Drilling : HSS spiral drilling
High speed. Always start drilling from the decorative side (for through holes).
Milling
Use tools made of hard metals, the rake angle of the cutting tool is 20 degrees.
Fastening with screws
When fastening, use galvanized cylindrical screws or quick-drive screws.
Fixing with mortar
Use only with retaining brackets.
ATTENTION: The window sill and the mortar do not stick together. Due to the possible extension of the window sill, its maximum permissible length is 2000 mm.
Fixing with polyurethane foam
It is allowed to use only 2-component polyurethane foam, which does not swell after absorbing moisture.
Its low elasticity allows only a very slight extension of the window sill. Therefore, use this method only in dry places and in areas no longer than 3000 mm. Always use additional retaining clips. Distance 600 mm.
We recommend using only 2-component foam, because it will not expand when it absorbs moisture.
When using 1-component polyurethane foam, deformation may occur, because 1 component foam tends to expand when exposed to moisture.
Gluing
For more detailed information, please contact:
Silka Chemie GmbH, D-72574 Bad Urach
Tel. 07125 – 9400 Fax. 07125 – 940 321
(see page 5)
Special designs
In special cases, we will be happy to develop an individual installation proposal for you.
CONNECTION DETAILS
1 The principle of window connection
2 Connecting the window sill into the groove with the window frame
Window connection to wall:
Airtight seal with internal filling and elastic dense material.
3 Butt joint of a rebated window sill (connection of a window sill with a rounded recess).
Window connection to wall:
Airtight seal with tight-fitting foil sheet.
4 Docking connection of the window sill in a rebate with a sealing profile.
Window connection to wall:
The room has an airtight seal with internal filler and elastic, tight-fitting dense material.
5 Butt joint of the window sill in the rebate.
Window connection to wall:
The room has an airtight seal with a tight-fitting foil sealing film.
6 Butt joint of the window sill with sealing material in the joint holes.
Window connection to wall:
The room has an airtight seal with a tight-fitting film.
Fastening on consoles Connection with slope Butt connection
1 – 3 Attaching window sills to the Werzalit
1 Distance between fastenings:
· If only 2 consoles are used in a normal area, the maximum distance between consoles should be 600 mm.
· When installing from 3 consoles in a normal area, the maximum distance between consoles will be no more than 800 mm.
· With a load of 1 kilo Newton on any point of the window sill, there should be a maximum distance between the consoles - 500 mm.
· The protruding part of the window sill beyond the console, maximum 100 mm.
2 Console (Bracket)
When installing Werzalit consoles, you can use either a short or a long support device holder.
If you are installing a window sill intended for heavy loads (for example, 1 KN), then it is necessary to install the mount only with an extended holder to the wall.
Werzalit consoles are only designed for a load point of 1 KN. Please check with the factory for more detailed information.
Dowels and screws are selected according to the load.
3 Mount
To secure the window sill to the console, it is advisable to use cylindrical, galvanized Werzalit screws 3.9 x 16 or screws with a semicircular head 4.5 x 16,
Recommended drilling is 3.2 mm.
It is necessary to take into account the possible extension of the window sill, for example through longitudinal holes or enlarged holes in the consoles.
4 Side connection for all types of installation
When connecting a window sill to a slope, a distance of 6 mm must be provided for its expansion, which is filled with strips of mineral fiber insulation so that plaster or cement does not get there.
To prevent the plaster or finishing from being destroyed when the window sill is possibly extended, a strip of foil should be placed between the edge of the plaster and the window sill or the plaster should be adjacent to the window sill.
5 – 6 Butt connection
When connecting end-to-end, gaps must be left between the window sills. To bridge these gaps, a special connecting profile for window sills with 3 x 20 screws at the end of the window sill is used.
When installing window sills on consoles, 2 consoles are installed near the joints.
The protruding part of the window sill is allowed a maximum of 40 mm.
7 – 8 Angled connection
Window sills at an angle are connected either as shown in picture 5-6 or can be connected as glued corners using plastic connectors.
When adhesively joining corners, it is necessary to take into account the possible elongation and stretching of the window sill, therefore, for every maximum of 2000 mm, a plug must be installed.
INSTALLATION WITH GLUE. SECURING WITH TWO-COMPONENT FOAM
1 – 3. Installation with Sika Bond T 2
Gluing with Sika Bond T2 adhesive creates a stress-free, elastic connection between the window sill and the bottom surface. Installation with adhesive, intended primarily for window sills with a length of 6000 mm. Irregularities on the bottom surface can be easily smoothed out. Thanks to this glue, possible expansion of the window sill is restrained.
Provide gaps when connecting the window sill to the slope. (see Fig. 4, page 4).
Werzalit window sills can be installed with adhesive on almost all building materials, such as solid brick, lightweight concrete, concrete, brick, plaster, wood, aluminum or steel. The base on which the window sill will be glued must be clean, strong, dry and free of grease.
After installing the window sill, the bonding points on the inside of the window sill must be cleaned with 1 Sika cleaning agent. To do this, use a lint-free cloth. After cleaning, the adhesive surface must be dried and ventilated for at least 5 minutes.
1. For precise laying (positioning) of the window sill, it is necessary that the base has the appropriate glue thickness. Glue is applied to the base of the transverse lines.
· Glue application height 1.5 mm.
· Glue application width 10 mm.
· The distance between adhesive applications with only 2 lines is maximum 600 mm.
· Distance from 3 adhesive lines max. 800 mm.
2. After gluing, the window sill must be pressed tightly (loaded) until the glue has completely hardened (which is approximately 4 hours).
4 – 8. Fastening with two-component polyurethane foam
Fastening with two-component polyurethane foam is intended for window sills up to 3000 mm long
It is necessary to provide sufficient clearance at the joints of the window sill with the slopes (see Fig. 4, page 4).
4. For precise positioning of the window sill on the base, spacers of appropriate thickness must be installed (at a maximum distance of 800 - 600 mm).
5. IMPORTANT: Before applying two-component polyurethane foam, the window sill must be pressed tightly to the base and to the window. Then the foam is blown in.
It is not necessary to apply foam to the entire surface. However, we recommend completely filling the joints in the area between the window sill and the wall. The window sill must be pressed tightly until the foam dries completely. The installation instructions must be followed.
8. For gluing or foam blowing
If the protruding part of the window sill is more than 100 mm, an additional console must be installed.
· Before gluing on butt joints, it is imperative to obtain the manufacturer's permission, otherwise errors may be made during gluing or the risk of inappropriate materials.
Connection using retaining brackets. Installation of a window sill with a built-in hood and ventilation grille
1. Fastening with retaining brackets on cement mortar
The connection with cement mortar and holding brackets allows only very small extensions and is only intended for window sills up to 2000 mm long. (see page 2).
The retaining brackets are screwed in two, one after the other, with Werzalit cylindrical screws size 3.9 x 16 or half-head screws 4.5 x 16.
· The distance between the holding brackets should be no more than 600 mm. For more precise installation of the window sill, gaskets of sufficient thickness must be installed on the base. (see page 5 fig. 4)
2 – 3. Installation of a window sill with a removable hood and a channel for laying cables from the Werzalit .
The window sill and the removable Kapinos must be connected using screws and a corner holder.
The corner holder and cable channel are secured to the vertical hood with 3.9 x 16 cylindrical screws and to the main window sill, as shown in the figure.
For window sills with 34 mm edging, the screw connection must be 7 mm.
· The distance between the fastenings of the angle holders should be no more than 600 mm. To remove the hood, you just need to unscrew the screws.
3. Protective angle
In order to prevent the cable cord from falling out again, a protective plastic corner measuring 30 x 90 mm must be attached to the inside of the window sill with screws.
4. Installation of window sills with a built-in channel on a portable console.
Regular installation channels are used. Consoles are supplied upon request by Werzalit.
5 – 6. Installation of window sills with a built-in channel and ventilation grille.
Window sills with a conventional installation channel and ventilation grille mounted on portable consoles (Consoles are supplied by the Werzalit factory upon customer request).
Grille manufacturer:
Fa. Akkermann; tel. 02261 – 830 or Fa.Emco; tel. 0591 -91400
To install ventilation grilles along the entire length of the window sill, it is assumed that the front window sill, its protruding part, must be at least 100 mm.
7 – 8. Installation of the Werzalit
Window sills with aluminum ventilation grilles 800 x 80 mm, cross-sectional size 785 x 67 mm, are glued using silicone. To make a ventilation grille to size, it is recommended to use a personal milling machine with an overhead spindle. The disadvantage of the ventilation grille is the instability of the window sill. Therefore, the distance between the installation of consoles should be reduced from a maximum of 600 - 800 mm to a maximum of 500 mm. In the area of the grille, the consoles should be installed up to 30 mm to the edge of the window sill.
Convector finishing – Overlay window sill – Treatment of window sill edges
1. Fastening the window sill to telescopic consoles.
Installation of consoles and connection of the window sill (see page 4.) installation of consoles.
These consoles are delivered upon customer request. Retractable consoles are an additional option for attaching a vertical window sill - a double profile, like a removable covering.
2. Mounting on telescopic consoles
An example is the installation of a window sill with a built-in channel and ventilation grille and an additional vertical window sill.
YF window sill system with hoods
An example is the cable channel from Werzalit.
Installation of consoles - see page 4
Installation of cable duct with protective corner – see page 6
4. Overlay window sill
The CF 65 window sill system is installed on an existing window sill.
Fastening is done using polyurethane foam or gluing.
Connecting to the window frame and sealing the joints (see page 3.)
5 – 9. Processing the ends of the window sill
5. Sealing the ends of the window sill using laminate tape impregnated with glue and having the appropriate decor. For gluing, use an iron heated to 145 degrees. Burrs of the laminate tape are processed with a file or sandpaper.
6 – 9. The ends of the window sill can be sealed using artificial plugs (also for window sills with hoods). The plugs have rounded edges on both sides. When cutting a plug into two parts, one turns out to be two plugs of the required width. The plug is glued using a special hot gluing gun.
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TECHNICAL DATA
Werzalit window sills are made from freshly crushed wood coated with melamine. The production technology of window sills meets the requirements of DIN EN 312 – 7.
Shredded wood consists of freshly cut down trees. The production takes place from round wood, exclusively from native forests in Germany in a certain proportion of fresh deciduous and coniferous trees. Imported wood, especially tropical trees, are not used.
The binding agent is an artificial duroplastic resin, acceptable according to sanitary and hygienic standards, for external coating. Formaldehyde emissions correspond to the lowest emission class E1 for particle board, which meets the requirements of Annex 1 of chemical protection standards. It also does not contain elements such as isosynate, phosphate, halogen, hexachlorocyclogen and pentachloropinol.
For coating , paper is used, consisting of many layers and impregnated with artificial duroplastic resins. The surface and core in the press are melted together under the influence of high temperatures and pressure without forming joints or joints. The pigments used do not contain toxic heavy materials (lead, chromium, Cadmium)
Remaining material or trimmings must not be burned in fireplaces, stoves or home boilers. Burning waste residues in production is permitted because this is possible without complications. Wood remains correspond to category A II, old wood – V
Technical data
| № | Window sills | Test rules | |||||
| 1. | Density | 700 – 800 | kg/m3 | EN323 | |||
| 2. | Flexural strength | 30 – 35 | n/mm2 | EN310 | |||
| 3. | Elastic modulus | 4000 — 5000 | n/mm2 | EN310 | |||
| 4. | Tensile strength perpendicular to surface | 1,0 – 2,0 | n/mm2 | EN319 | |||
| 5. | Strength for pulling out screws 1) | 800 — 1300 | N | Test standard Werzalit | |||
| 6. | Swelling after exposure to water at 200C: | After 2 hours: 0.3 – 0.6 After 24 hours: 5.0 – 8.0 | % % | EN 317 | |||
| 7. | Humidity content | 5 — 10 | % | EN 322 | |||
| 8. | Temperature resistance | ||||||
| With prolonged contact | -50 to + 90 | 0C | Test standard Werzalit | ||||
| For a short time. contact | +180 | 0C | Test standard Werzalit | ||||
| 9. | Flammability normal flammability B 2 | Standard performance: normal flammability B 2 | DIN 4102 | ||||
| 10. | Change in length under influence humidity/heat3) | 1 -3 | mm/m | Test standard Werzalit | |||
| 11 | Coefficient of thermal conductivity l10 | 0,18 | W/mk | DIN 52612 | |||
| 12 | Thickness of the air layer equivalent to diffusion | 5 — 15 | m | DIN 52615 | |||
| 13 | Lattice cross-section test | GT OA-GT 1A | EN ISO 2409 | ||||
| 14 | Scratch resistance | 3-5.5 | N | EN 438 | |||
| 15 | Brinell hardness | 60 — 65 | N/mm2 | Test standard Werzalit | |||
| 16 | Wearability under load | 200 — 300 | U | EN 438 | |||
| 17 | Photosensitivity | 6 - 8th degree | DIN 54 004 | ||||
| 18 | Chemical resistance | Good and very good | EN 438 | ||||
| 19 | Resistant to smoldering cigarettes | persistent | Similar to EN 438 | ||||
GPS – German Industrial Standard
1). The screw for particle boards is 4 mm, the diameter of the drilled hole is 3 mm, screwed in to a depth of 10 mm, the measured value characterizes the screwing depth in mm.
2). Maximum stretch during extreme climatic weather changes.
3). The weight part of OA is the best, and 4A is the worst.
4). With a load of up to 1000 N, withstands 15 seconds (force/point of impact)
5). For window sills of the Emotion group, light sensitivity = 6 - 7
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Stages of installation of a plastic window sill
Finally, we have sorted out the general points and now we can, without a twinge of conscience, tell you how to install a window sill to a plastic window yourself. This process is actually simple, and let you now have a different opinion on this matter. The algorithm of actions is as follows:
- Working surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned. There should not even be dust, not to mention trash. It is also necessary to remove protruding elements and neutralize traces of pathogenic microorganisms.
- Using a building level, the position of the window sill is calculated. It must be positioned strictly horizontally, without deviations or errors. Our recommendations must be followed strictly, because we want to tell you how to attach a window sill to a plastic window correctly and securely. We set beacons according to the level, which will significantly facilitate further work.
- From the set level we tilt it by 5 mm. This move will provide the opportunity for condensation to drain from the surface rather than remain on it, thus creating conditions of high humidity. Although, there is another opinion here. Since all joints will be carefully sealed, the problem of water accumulation no longer seems so acute. Round objects, such as a pen, will roll off a window sill that has an angle of inclination. We strive to tell you how to correctly insert a window sill into a plastic window; the choice is always yours. You will have to choose the right option with the angle of inclination yourself.
- A window sill is placed along the beacons. To fix it in this position, you can use mortar, glue, self-tapping screws, or screws with mechanical support. You can decide for yourself how to attach the window sill to the window.
- There is a distance between the base, which is most often made of concrete, and the window sill. It needs to be filled with foam. It is advisable to place a weight on the windowsill, which will prevent the foam from pushing it out. After the foam has hardened, you can cut off the excess.
- You need to place caps on the end edges that will provide protection to the product and make it look more presentable.
- You can remove the film from the window sill.
Options for connecting tabletop parts
The installation and installation of countertops is carried out by specialists from. They perform three main types of connection of several parts:
- straight (joint to joint without the use of a euro saw);
- euro saw;
- diagonal miter joint.
Euro-sawing is a method of joining the ends of a table top. The work is carried out according to the pattern. The ends are cut on a special milling machine. The company uses only high-quality and professional equipment, so the plane of the ends is smooth with an acceptable allowance. As a result of proper processing, the planes fit tightly and no gaps form between the joints. The surface visually looks smooth and solid.
Direct docking: features
You can design a kitchen at a right angle in kitchens that are located in houses with old buildings and layouts. If the room is small and compact, then the set is installed in an L-shape. Thanks to this, you can save space for the dining table.
An alternative option to using a euro saw is joining using an aluminum profile. Before installation, it is treated with silicone sealant. The joints are sealed and reliable. Moisture, steam, and dust do not penetrate inside the product. The connection will last a long time, even when installed next to the sink. The sealant does not collapse and resists moisture well. The design will last a long time and will not deform.
Accessories for window sill installation
- The window sill itself
- Jigsaw
- Mounting gun
- Professional polyurethane foam
- Gun cleaner
- Water level
- Dowels and screws (optional)
- Wooden wedges or their equivalents
- Primer
- Pencil
- Roulette
I think everyone knows what a jigsaw is. I'll tell you about the foam.
I recommend a professional one, for a special pistol.
Its main advantage is that when it expands, it has a minimal deforming effect on the structure, in contrast to training products with tubes.
In addition, professional compositions are much less susceptible to temperature changes.
It is the use of cheap x. neither is the main cause of humpbacked window sills in new buildings. Every self-respecting manufacturer has products for pistols: Penosil, Tytan, Macroflex, Krass and others. I usually use Penosil, but I'm not saying it's the best choice, I'm just used to it.
A mounting gun (GUN) can be purchased at any hardware store. The price range is quite wide: from about 450 rubles to 2000. If you are purchasing a tool for the home, then there is no point in overpaying, take it cheaper. But keep in mind that this is a common instrument and, like all others, it requires care. And very thorough. I wrote in detail on this topic in the corresponding article.
We'll talk about the rest of the accessories as the lesson progresses. We can get started.
How to install a window sill correctly
Selecting and installing a window sill is an important stage in finishing your window opening. Thanks to an organically selected window sill and the material from which it is made, you will create an additional platform for use. The material you choose will allow you to create a unique design and change the functionality of such a site.
In this article we will tell you exactly how to choose a window sill and material, we will give instructions on how to install a window sill, both wooden and plastic. Finally, you'll get some advice from experts in the industry.
Types of materials and their choice
There are many materials from which window sills are made. To choose the best one for yourself, you should analyze each of them a little so that you have a more or less clear picture and understand their key features.
Let's start by looking at what the most popular materials are used to create a window sill:
- Natural wood. Typically, strong and durable wood species are used.
- Plate based on MDF and chipboard.
- Polyvinyl chloride materials, abbreviated PVC.
- Artificial and natural varieties of stone.
Natural wood: these types of boards are highly valued due to their environmental friendliness and durability. The wood used is oak, pine, beech, and the fairly common ash and mahogany.
If the material is properly treated with special means to improve its performance, then such a window sill on the balcony is practically not exposed to moisture, temperature changes and various physical influences.
High strength and impact resistance make it very durable and can be used in any conditions. Although wooden materials will be quite expensive, and the better quality they are, the higher the price tag will be. In addition to this, the surface will need to be constantly tinted or varnished.
How to prevent condensation from forming
A typical consequence of installation errors is the formation of condensation. It can appear both on the windowsill itself and on the glass. Each case has its own reason.
Hypothermia of the window sill occurs due to a violation of the foam seam in the lower zone. The best thing to do in this case is to disassemble the ebb from the outside and scrape out the remaining foam from under the frame. After cleaning, the bottom seam is filled with foam again.
Condensation on glass appears mainly when using single-chamber double-glazed windows with high thermal conductivity. Such windows require a continuous thermal curtain from radiators during the cold season. If the window sill protrudes too much, it will block the flow of hot air and the glass will not warm up properly. The problem can be solved by inserting 2-3 convection sleeves into the window sill, which are also used for pulling cables through the walls of cabinet furniture.
What to do with the battery?
In the vast majority of cases, there is a battery at the bottom of the window that needs to be dealt with. Covering it with solid cabinets is a bad idea, as there is a risk of damaging the furniture. In addition, the room will immediately become colder. What can you do then?
The first and most important thing is to ensure free air circulation. To do this, it is important to provide holes in the countertop, frame or facade. Cold air from outside should penetrate to the radiator, and hot air should go out. Then there will be no problems.
You can move the radiator, but we do not recommend doing this. Changing the heating plan in your apartment will lead to changes in your neighbors' apartments. Some people may suddenly feel warmer, while others may feel much colder. Then you will have to figure out who is to blame and pay considerable fines for violations.
