Tilt and turn mechanism for plastic windows (PVC): prices, installation, replacement, repairs for closing and tilting (opening)

Among all types of fittings for plastic windows, the tilt and turn mechanism is the most popular and best in its capabilities.
Its peculiarity is the presence of scissors, modified hinges, hooks and switches that allow you to move and fix the sash both vertically and horizontally, as well as improve the ventilation mode, more effectively regulate the slopes and the degree of pressing.

It’s just that the rotary system is much reduced in terms of options; it is often replaced with the one described above.

Let's consider what tilt-and-turn fittings consist of, their capabilities, how to repair, install from scratch or replace worn-out or less functional closing/opening mechanisms installed on PVC double-glazed windows.

What is it and why is it needed?

Window fittings are, first of all, auxiliary, functional elements that ensure the operation of a double-glazed window, opening/closing, switching to certain modes and fixing in them. Such equipment also includes seals, ventilation elements, and decorative parts.

The mechanisms of ordinary windows are actually just hinges, handles, and fastening bolts. But for products that are commonly called double-glazed windows (they are not only plastic, but also wooden and aluminum), the system that ensures opening/closing is a complex interconnected complex of numerous large and small parts, slats, strapping plates along the entire perimeter of the sashes and frames.

The complexity of the design is due to the increased functionality of such a window: several modes (seasonal positions, ventilation, opening/tilting), the ability to adjust the pressure, position, and locking.

We list all possible types of fittings for PVC double-glazed windows in order to display in more detail the place among them of the described type of mechanism:

Rotary (including hinged) and tilt-and-turn. These are the classic, most common varieties for plastic and similar double-glazed windows. The former have limited functionality known since ancient times - opening (movement) only horizontally, to the sides, as well as some options for different modes, but they are not so numerous and voluminous, limited by the described design.
Frame subtypes include structures with false imposts, in which there is no vertical partition; its role is played by the side of the sash, and the edge of the other sash serves as a lock, the fittings (fixing, rotating) are hidden on the inside.
The tilt-and-turn fittings we are considering are the most optimal in terms of functionality, one might even say, with the largest number of options among all systems, a mechanism that provides opening/closing not only horizontally, but also vertically (tilting).
It also has an improved ventilation mode (adjustment of gap, lag, pressure over a wider range).
With suspension in a horizontal plane: mid-hanging, transom.
In such a system, the fixing and holding elements are mounted not on one vertical side of the frame, but in identical places on its opposite racks (bars), that is, a horizontal line can be drawn between such fastenings. Opening the sash is tilting up/down (raising/lowering, that is, not turning to the left/right, but vertically).
There are design options in the direction of opening the doors: away from/towards you, in different directions, towards each other.
Parallel sliding. Placed on sliding double-glazed windows.

The tilt-and-turn mechanism of a plastic double-glazed window is a fitting (scissors, handles, trim, switches, gearbox, microlift, etc.), which makes it possible to open/close the window both horizontally and vertically (tilt), as well as fix the sash in such cases progress in different modes. It is this mechanism that must be installed if a window with the maximum range of capabilities is required.

Characteristics and Features

The main feature of this PVC double-glazed window fittings is the scissors - an elbow connection made of metal guides, which provides a special movement and retention of the sashes, especially for the folding position.

It is this element that limits this position, preventing the structure from falling. Another feature is a special system of pins (hooks), which makes it possible to block the doors, fix them in different modes, and adjust the pressure

In order to open/close vertically, it is necessary for the structure to rotate on hinges in different directions and move in/out of them, which is why these parts are special.

The handle and actuator-transmission device of the tilt-and-turn fittings have a special design, designed to give and execute an expanded range of commands. Inside the handle there is a special system with a locking ring (gear system) that allows you to rotate it 180 degrees to control all possible positions of the glass unit.

According to GOST 30777, the main details are as follows:

There are many diagrams on the Internet; each manufacturer, in addition to the basic, characteristic sets of elements for all such fittings, may have additional and special parts.

Looking at the drawings and the list of elements of the tilt and turn mechanism, one gets the impression that it is extremely complex, but this impression is somewhat exaggerated. You can simplify your understanding of the design by grouping all parts according to the main functional areas.

For example: scissors, locks, the rest of the harness (gears, extensions), auxiliary elements (hinges, handles, locks, trunnions, microlifts). You should immediately distinguish between the parts installed on the sash and on the frame .

Some manufacturers have hardware modifications where certain elements are replaced with parts with a special or modified design, for example:

Capabilities and modes of tilt-and-turn fittings:

Tools required for work

To install or replace tilt-and-turn fittings for plastic windows, you will need the following tools :

Phillips screwdrivers, as well as an asterisk, it is convenient to use this tool with a set of attachments. You can also use a screwdriver.
A flathead screwdriver with a wide blade or a spatula-like tool with blunt edges. It may be necessary to move the elements of the mechanism and remove them from the grooves.
Hex keys 4, 5, 6 mm. To adjust the window.
Pliers, pliers for auxiliary manipulations.
A small hammer may be needed to lightly tap the hinge pins if the sash will be removed for repair/replacement of hardware.
Pencil, marker, ruler, tape measure - for marking.
Bolt cutter, hacksaw for metal for fitting slats.
A drill or screwdriver with drill bits if you have to make holes for hinges or in the trim for screws.
A stepladder to allow access to the sash when removing it from its hinges.

Special tools, materials and means:

Setup kit, mounting handle. This device may also contain several of the above tools, for example, hexagons. It also contains a tetrahedral rod that replaces the handle.
Templates (two: for the upper and lower loops).
They will be required only if the fittings are replaced and the holes for the specified elements do not match or if the mechanism is being installed from scratch. It is impossible to do without them in the described situation, since this manipulation requires maximum precision. It is possible to drill holes without the specified devices, but even a microscopic deviation will lead to the fact that the sash will be skewed, the error will be irreparable, will lead to a permanent incorrect position, uneven distribution of the load, which will be difficult to correct by adjustment.
The seal, if it is being replaced.
Lubricant: silicone products for rubber and metal parts; machine and gun oil only for the latter. The well-known WD product is also suitable, but it is excessively liquid, so it is often used for initial rinsing before applying a more consistent composition. It is ideal if there are special products for caring for PVC windows.
Soft cloth for cleaning.

Templates are plastic blocks that are placed on the sash or frame, ensuring extreme accuracy. Through these blocks with special measuring holes, seats for self-tapping screws are drilled for attaching the hinges of the tilt-and-turn fittings of plastic windows; they also serve as a tool for determining the required diameter of the drill.

Conclusion

Adjusting the tilt-and-turn sash in a plastic window is not difficult if you know all aspects of the work. The video in this article will help you understand some important nuances even better, and if you have questions, write them in the comments under the review.

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December 26, 2022

Windows, Plastic

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Setting up the locking structure

Setup, adjustment or calibration is required , otherwise the shutters will be skewed, not fit tightly, incorrectly set to different modes, and stiff movement may occur. Due to sagging structures, the load on the fittings will increase, which will lead to rapid wear and breakage. For the procedure, you will need a 4 mm hex key, less often 5 or 6 mm, sometimes the connector is designed for an asterisk.

Common cases where customization is required:

tight movement;
feeling that something is blocking movement;
blowing;
disruption of the handle, fixation in different positions and modes.

We will consider more characteristic signs for each case of adjustment below.

Horizontal. The adjustment is made when the frame is beveled, for example, caused by shrinkage of the structure, improper opening, or loosening of parts. A hexagon is inserted into the upper hinge and turned clockwise until the sash moves away to the required distance. At the same time, the lower segment of the adjustable loop should also lower.
The shift is about 2 mm. Calibration of the lower hinge is done using the side socket from below (not at its end, but the one that looks horizontally along the frame).
Vertical. Bevel, sagging, falling out of the sash. Vertical adjustment is made through a socket on the upper end (end) of the lower loop, after first removing the protective cap from it. Insert a hexagon there and rotate: clockwise. for raising, against – to lower.
Clamp. Loose fit, blowing. The pressure is also set for different modes according to the seasons. On the side inner line of the sash near the handle there is a system of eccentrics that adjust.
Adjusting the scissors .
Additional calibration of the clamp is done on them using an adjusting socket for a hexagon located on the rail of this element closer to the hinge. To get to the socket and for convenient adjustment, you need to open the window, press on the protrusion of the lock, and put the handle in the ventilation position. Strengthen the pressing of the sash to the frame - rotate the bolt clockwise; loosen - move the key in the opposite direction.

Hidden hinges on windows trend No. 1

A plastic window has long ceased to be a means of natural light and protection from bad weather. Designers are actively interested in this part of the room; windows are no longer covered with tulle or curtains, but are turned into interior decoration.

Photo: ordinary hinges without overlays do not decorate the window - their surface does not have a decorative layer on the protective coating. All elements used in the window must match the style and color, just like on expensive furniture.

It is with the choice of color solutions for window hinges that designers most often have problems. The range of overlays often does not allow you to choose the required color and the appearance deteriorates.

Photo: most often, manufacturers offer dark brown hinge covers for colored windows. It doesn’t look good on all laminated windows.

Hidden hinges are an original engineering solution that made it possible to hide the hinges inside the window and at the same time significantly expand the decorating possibilities and durability of the windows.

European window manufacturers have adopted an ideal offer for designer windows from hardware manufacturers - hidden hinges. In the Russian window market, the share of hidden hinges is about 1%-2%, but the trend for their installation is only gaining momentum.

Installation

Installation, for example, when replacing an old mechanism, can be done with your own hands by purchasing a kit of similar size and mounting sockets; you can choose different brands - such products are quite unified.

When choosing, look at the marking , which specifies what weight, width, height the product is designed for, and its standard size (N9 or N13). If there are no markings on the old mechanism, then measurements of the double-glazed window are taken, and a lot of different standard-sized sashes can be found on the Internet. There are also online calculators for calculating weight. If there is a passport for a double-glazed window, then its characteristics are indicated in it.

Depending on the difference in the displacement of the axis of the groove on the sash relative to the edge of the frame, there are two main standard sizes of tilt-and-turn fittings for plastic windows - N9 and N13 (the numbers mean mm), this must be taken into account when selecting.

Fittings that are radically different in terms of mounting locations for self-tapping screws can be installed, but you will have to drill new holes for the screws. As a rule, this will not be necessary, since there is no shortage of suitable products on the market.

As a rule, all models of a purchased tilt-and-turn mechanism for a plastic window require adjustment - cutting extensions, strips, slats (especially tilt-and-turn fasteners and scissors). This is a standard manipulation, as it allows the manufacturer to make the product more universal.

For example, for different window designs with certain parameters, you can buy the same fittings - just shorten the plate and it will fit into the grooves on both double-glazed windows. The main thing is that there are no fundamental differences. The slats and extensions are perforated, but you can also drill the necessary holes in them. Trimming is done with a hacksaw or bolt cutter (special scissors will not work, as the parts are too thick).

When might it be required?

Installation of fittings is carried out at the factory when assembling a PVC window, less often it is done when installing a double-glazed window on site at the customer. But there are also situations when the old mechanism is replaced with the same new one or a different type. The manipulation can be done independently. We briefly described how to choose accessories above.

Replacement of the opening/closing element of the PVC structure is carried out in such cases:

Old fittings do not satisfy the user with their capabilities. As a rule, the most similar, rotary, mechanism is replaced. With other types of fittings this is extremely difficult or impossible to do, since many new holes will need to be drilled for the trim, and fitting it will be labor-intensive. The user can easily improve his window by transforming it into a tilt-and-turn window.
The old fittings were incorrectly selected, for example, they were not designed for the weight of the sashes and were bent. You can replace only the elements that are under load, but these are the majority of parts of the harness, so a radical update can be made.
When a product of a little-known brand breaks down, when it is difficult to find individual elements for replacement.
Due to poor quality, the old mechanism breaks too often, becomes loose, and other problems occur.
Wear and critical breakdowns. In this case, you can also replace only a specific element. For example, the gearbox often breaks down - the part that includes the tetrahedral pin of the handle, which transmits commands to all the fittings. The socket of this element may crack or crumble, and even if the handle is in full working order, it will turn in vain. To repair it, it is enough to replace the bar with the gearbox.

Advice! There is no need to rush and start replacing or thoroughly repairing the tilt-and-turn fittings if they are not working correctly.

For example, tight movement of the valves, misalignment, incorrect operation of the handle can be caused by old dried grease, contamination, incorrect adjustment, loose screws, that is, it is enough to clean and treat the product with special means and make adjustments. If the sash is jammed, it often happens that the lock has latched - just move it manually and turn the handle to the “open” position.

Troubleshooting handle problems

The problem of repairing the handle of a plastic window is the most common and usually the first thing that worries the happy owners of a plastic window. For example, the handle dangles and, as a result, does not close as it should. There seems to be nothing to approach: no bolts, no springs - it’s practically a monolithic thing. No such luck: the plate at the very base of the handle turns, and just under it there are two screws.

The screws are located under the plastic panel

If the handle just dangles, tighten the bolts; If the handle is broken and cannot be restored, we simply replace it with a new one and use it. You can buy such a handle at every construction market or from dealers selling plastic windows. In short, one of the few problems that can be solved without the help of a specialist.

Another problem: the handle may simply jam. If you feel that it is "tight", twist it, get rid of dust and debris and spray it with WD-40.

Installation step by step

Installation of the tilt and turn opening/closing mechanism begins with removing the sash:

We remove decorative elements. Lightly tapping with a hammer, knock out the rod of the upper hinge and pull it out with pliers. The window is in the “closed” position.
We put the handle in the “open” position, slightly tilt the top of the sash towards us, which makes it possible to remove it from the lower pin, lift it up and remove it.
We place the structure flat on two or four stools to make it convenient to serve.
Next, we remove the old fittings, the handle - this is easy to do: just unscrew all the self-tapping screws, pull the trim out of the grooves.
We begin installing new tilt-and-turn fittings on a plastic window.

Advice! Before installation, for convenience, a new set of tilt-and-turn fittings is laid out on a flat surface according to a template, a rectangle, the image of which is in the instructions, and there are also many examples of diagrams on the Internet.

Next we will describe the procedure step by step with illustrations.:

First, we clean all edges, edges, grooves of the sash and frame. You can use special care products for PVC double-glazed windows or WD universal lubricant, which is liquid enough to rinse with, wash out dirt from all crevices, and you can also use rags and brushes. The latter should be as soft as possible, since friction with hard materials can cause the plastic to lose its gloss.
For cleaning, under no circumstances should you use products containing solvents (acetone, gasoline) and acids, even in trace quantities; it is permissible to use alcohol. It is not advisable to rub a double-glazed window with soda - it is abrasive, but soapy water, dishwashing detergent, and plastic products are ideal for cleaning.
We start installation from the lower left corner. The procedure may be different, especially if it is indicated in the product instructions, but if there are no such instructions, then experts recommend the one we describe as the most convenient.
We install a corner switch in this place - we simply push the element into the groove. Then we go lower and install a middle, horizontal lock; after that, we similarly place the top such part (right corner).
We fix the main lock between the two corner adjusters in the groove. The length of the latter is almost always made by the manufacturer with a margin; it is adjusted during the installation process - this is a standard procedure. We take measurements: we place and mark with a marker the places where its ends and the ends of the corner slats will adjoin.
We install clamp plugs - small metal segments with several recesses. We remove the main lock, place the edge of the plug against the previously made mark so that it is closer to the middle. A second mark is placed near the other edge, this is done on both sides of the constipation.
We cut this element with a bolt cutter or a hacksaw (some models of fittings also have a second toothed strip, which is also shortened). We drill the edges according to the marks. We insert the lock into the groove, and place plugs where the profile will be visible.
We install the upper right switch, then the second main regulator on the right, the principle is the same as when installing the first one: marks relative to the corners, apply plugs, adjust, install, close with covers.
Next, we use a template that will help determine the diameter of the drill and through which the holes for the lower sash hinge are drilled. If the seats already exist and match, then this procedure is not required.
Follow the recommended length of screws, it is written on the template. Screws for hinges use only elongated ones, and not ordinary window screws, which secure the rest of the trim.
Using short self-tapping screws, the trim is screwed along the entire perimeter of the window along the holes provided by the manufacturer, but the outer seats for them on the scissors are left empty.
The next step is to install the latter, which will require one long screw screwed into the base of this elbow joint.
Manipulations with the sash are completed, let's move on to the frame. On the frame, using another template (frame, not sash), we select the size of the drill, make holes for the lower hinge.
We lift the device along the window wall until it stops - we do the same for the same upper element. We fasten the lower hinge (its part for the frame) with long self-tapping screws, do the same with the top one, and then hang the sash on the first one, lower it, and connect the two segments of the second one together.
Where a pin is provided, we mount it. Hinge installation is complete.
Then you need to lift the sash and mark the connection points of the locking pins with the strikers on the main profile. We also mark the location of the blocker.
According to the mark, we attach a swing-out hook to the frame, the central hole of which should be exactly under it. Taking into account the second risk, we fix the blocker. We install the handle, screw it on, check the operation - open/close the window several times.

Main window adjustment points

To understand how to repair a plastic window, you need to know how it works. Almost any plastic window installed in an average apartment has three levels (or planes) of adjustment. This, first of all, makes it possible for the window part itself to be in an optimal (tightly pressed and not skewed) position to the frame, plus it ensures a reliable connection to the seal. All the “magic” is in the loops. The lower hinge is responsible for the vertical position of the sash and the lower vertical angle; the upper part of the sash is responsible for adjusting the upper hinge; The clamping force directly depends on the eccentrics. That's all the tricks.

Plastic window

The main problem here is the well-known displacement of the mechanism, which does not allow the sash to open and close correctly, or to do so at the desired angle. This is the so-called “sagging”, due to which the window touches the frame and may eventually simply stop closing at all.

In this case, we are interested in window awnings. We do not take the lower one into account; it does not play any role here. You need to open the window and at the very top of the window find two screws that are adjustable using a hexagon. We loosen the lower one slightly, and work with the upper one: using a hexagon, we turn it back and forth until it is in the desired position.

When is repair needed?

It must be said that in the case of mechanisms for opening/closing plastic windows, there is no point in repairing the broken part, for example, using welding, tightening with reinforcing plates, screws, etc., since extreme dimensional accuracy is required.

But the main thing is that the spare part loses its integrity and, accordingly, its strength, and the PVC window is heavy, the loads and vibrations are systematic and significant. Such a part will not last long, and since it will already have flaws after repair, it may disrupt the operation of the entire system.

Peculiarity! Repairing PVC double-glazed window fittings in most cases consists of completely replacing the broken element. That is, it is not advisable to glue, weld, strengthen a broken part with plates, etc. And many breakdowns can be eliminated by lubrication, adjustment, and placing the strapping elements in the correct position.

As a rule, purchasing an analogue spare part for fittings is not difficult . You can buy a product from other brands, not an exact copy, but a suitable copy, the main thing is that the thickness, length, cutouts, and seats are identical. If the rail or trim plate is changed, then it can be adjusted by trimming it, and you can also drill a hole in the right place for a self-tapping screw.

It is necessary to evaluate the feasibility of repairs, for example, if the old fittings were incorrectly selected for the weight of the sash, which is why the scissors were bent or cracked, then only them and the hinges can be replaced.

If the gearbox is cracked, then, of course, you can install the same new bar with it, and not completely replace the entire system. If the mechanism as a whole is of poor quality, often becomes loose, creaks, or becomes deformed, there is a reason not to repair it, but to completely replace it.

Typical cases when tilt-and-turn fittings can and should be repaired:

The handle itself is in good working order, but it turns without transmitting a command, and a grinding noise may occur - this is a sign of a gearbox failure; the part with it must be replaced.
The scissors and loaded parts (hinges, etc.) are cracked or bent. These parts are replaced with new, more reliable ones, since they cannot withstand the weight of the sashes. You can update only the specified spare parts, but in such a situation the feasibility of completely replacing the entire mechanism also increases - it is better that the entire system is correctly designed for the weight of the glass unit.
The handle is broken. It is more advisable to buy a new one, of course, if you don’t have an extra locking ring or tetrahedral pin (if that’s the problem). Even if you tighten the two parts of the broken case with self-tapping screws and reinforce it with a metal plate, it is unlikely that the product will last long.
Segments with hooks, pins, and mating parts are broken. They or the corresponding segment with them change.

Repair process

It’s extremely easy to display the repair step by step:

Inspection.
Removing the sash (we described above), but it is not always necessary, for example, a bar that does not take part in holding the structure can be replaced without it. But when updating the scissors, dismantling will be required.
Removing the damaged element (you just need to unscrew the screws and pull it out of the groove).
Purchasing a similar element, trimming it to fit (this is not always required, usually for parts with slats).
Installation in its place, in the same way as the old element was placed.

When the window jams in ventilation mode, the scissors probably came out of their grooves. If the space near the slope allows, then you can try to put them in their seats without removing the sash, otherwise you will have to remove it.

If the window does not close well, then perhaps the pin does not correspond to its counterpart - you need to unscrew the last element and install it correctly, and you may need to make a new hole for the screw.

A loose slot ventilator results in incomplete pressure, and the handle cannot be turned to the desired position. It is necessary to inspect the part and tighten the fasteners. If the problem is initially in its incorrect position, then you can try to correct this problem by adjusting the trunnions on the sashes.

The handle is replaced simply: remove the decorative trims, unscrew the screws, take out the handle with the tetrahedral pin and put a new one in its place in the reverse order.

When replacing elements with slats, they can be trimmed and the holes we need can be made (in the photo below they are adjusting the trim strip with the gearbox):

Hardware maintenance

Plastic windows need cleaning. It should be done not annually, but at least once every 3-5 years. Dirt accumulated in hard-to-reach places must be cleaned out, otherwise the fittings will have to be repaired, as the functioning will be impaired.

Remove the sash from its hinges. How to do this is described at the beginning of the article. Using a sharp knife, remove the overhead elements from the frame. Do this carefully so as not to damage the elastic bands.
Take out the top axle.
Set the sash aside.
Thoroughly blow and clean all mechanisms, dry and lubricate. Check the condition of the rubber seals. Replace them if necessary.
Put the sash back and adjust the window.

Average prices in the Russian Federation

Prices for closing/opening structures largely depend on the brand , for example, Roto, MACO, SIEGENIA-AUBI are considered more expensive brands, Winkhaus is an average price category, Turkish brands (VORNE, KALE) are cheap.

The price is higher if there are additional parts and various improvements, and it is also logical that a kit for heavier sashes will cost more. The same applies to the material: you will have to pay more for a handle made of high-quality metal, plastic and/or silumin handles are cheaper.

MACO, ROTO, SIEGENIA-AUBI costs about 2600 rubles. for a standard kit without any special improvements. German Winkhaus is considered a good product for an average price (and therefore popular) - 2200 rubles. The mechanism from VORNE costs about 1,700 rubles. There are luxury brands with very high prices, for example, STUBLINA - a set costs from 4,000 thousand.

There are also individual parts on sale , for example, a segment with a MACO gearbox costs 826 rubles, while cheaper brands have a lower price by 150-200 rubles.

For arched, trapezoidal windows, the price of a tilt/turn closing/opening mechanism can reach 10 thousand, for three-leaf windows - 14 thousand.

How to choose the one you need

Despite the fact that window handles and other things are only accessories, the choice must be approached with care and knowledge. The thing is that poor quality products will quickly fail. Then you will have to buy and assemble them again.

In this case, it is worth spending more money once and taking into account all the recommendations, and not changing a minor device every 2 years.

High-quality devices have the following criteria:

ability to withstand heavy loads;
ease of use;
structural strength, resistance to erosion and other factors.

It would be a plus if the device has additional functions. It is better to choose German manufacturers. They make the most reliable devices from quality materials.

The purchase of a device will cost up to 15% of the total cost of the structure itself. It is recommended not to skimp on this part of the profile. Because constant replacement will only cost more.

In addition, since a low-quality system wears out quickly, the window profile will lose its quality. Due to poor fittings, the window sashes are poorly fixed, which means the room will not be completely protected from cold air or noise from the outside.