How to expand a window in an old wooden house

You can increase the window opening both in length and width. You can also combine two adjacent windows by eliminating the partition between them. This will allow you to install one panoramic window, which will let in much more light into the house.

A house with large windows is the dream of many. The size of window openings in existing old-type buildings is often too small. On the other hand, the modern market offers a wide range of panoramic designs, which become a great temptation for the homeowner. However, it is worth considering that people's expectations may not always be realized in this particular project. The WINDOWS MEDIA portal will tell you how to enlarge the windows in your house. One way to modernize an old house is to replace the windows facing the garden with larger structures. How large they can be depends both on the planned repair and on the capabilities of the profile systems. Dreams of large windows occupying almost the entire wall of a building cannot always be realized. This should be kept in mind by investors and architects who realize the needs of clients in the renovation process. Windows have a limited size, exceeding which can pose a danger to the structure of the building and its occupants.

Installing plastic windows in an old wooden house yourself

Installation of plastic windows in an old wooden house can be carried out according to standard instructions for such work.
However, old houses have one feature that can be considered a big advantage over newly built houses - the old house no longer shrinks. In this case, there is no need for large gaps that are left for shrinkage of new houses. Sequence of work:

Preparatory stage - dismantling the old window, adjusting the size of the opening for the new window;
Manufacturing of casing
Window installation

Preparatory work

If the house is old, then most likely the old windows were made of wood. Such windows are dismantled using a crowbar. If necessary, the old window is sawn. The doorway is completely cleared and inspected to determine the condition of the logs.

Important!
If the house is old, then when windows were first installed, most likely, the window opening was not treated with antiseptic impregnations, which protect the wood from rot and bugs.

The old casing in the doorway is usually not suitable for a new window - it is either damaged or does not fit the size of the new window of the desired size - about 2 cm are left between the window frame and the casing on each side. If you use old casing, the window may turn out to be too small. Therefore, the old opening is expanded taking into account the size of the new plastic window.

New opening dimensions:

Width - 220 mm is added to the width of the plastic window, which takes into account the thickness of the new casing beams (2 * 100 mm), the gaps between the frame and casing are 20 mm on each side, 15 mm on each side for jute insulation. The allowance is reduced by 50 mm due to the insertion of the tenons of the side openings of the window into the casing beams;
Height - 245 mm is added to the height of the window for installation gaps under the frame and above the window frame, the thickness of the casing beams is taken into account. For an old house, they do not make a gap for shrinkage above the top beam of the casing.

Attention!
If there are even slight doubts about the possibility of shrinkage of the house, then it is better to leave a small gap of about 45 mm above the upper beam of casing to compensate for possible shrinkage.

Adjusting the size of the old opening

Manufacturing of casing

The casing must be installed even if the house no longer shrinks at all. The casing is needed to fix the linear dimensions of the opening.

Attention!
For casing, use only well-dried wood that will not shrink.

Tenons are cut out at the end of the logs on the side parts of the window opening, and recesses are cut out in the side beams of the casing, the size of which exactly matches the size of the tenon.

After trying on the beams, the opening is treated with an antiseptic impregnation and before laying the casing beams, a jute seal is secured with a stapler.

Laying jute seal

The casing beam is laid on the lower part of the opening with a sealant, then on the upper part of the opening. The side casing bars are installed last.

Before installing the side bars, sealant is applied to the joint. All gaps that were left above and below the casing are sealed with tow.

Window installation

Before installation, the window frame is aligned along the front edge of the casing and fastened to the casing with self-tapping screws so as not to go through it completely and not go deeper into the frame. According to the instructions for installing plastic windows, a gap should be left under the frame, which is then filled with foam.

Installation of a window with a gap under the frame

After the polyurethane foam has hardened, the excess is cut off with a knife, waterproofing work is carried out, and trim is installed.

Purpose of casing and its types

The tree reacts to drying unevenly. The linear dimensions change most of all across the direction of the fibers, while the longitudinal dimensions remain almost unchanged. When a wooden house made of logs or beams shrinks, the height of the wall and, accordingly, the height of the openings (windows, doors) decreases. To prevent the window from “shrinking” and its movable sashes from jamming, install a rough wooden frame - casing.

It compensates for the effect of shrinkage due to the following factors:

sliding method of vertical fastening to the wall in the opening;
the gap between the top board of the rough frame and the top rim of the opening itself;
using exclusively dry wood for staking, which has already passed the drying stage.

There are different types of sockets, differing in the way they create a sliding fastening. Although the basic principle of fixing the casing frame in the opening is the same - it is a “tenon and groove” type connection.

The following options can be distinguished:

Grooves are cut at the ends of the side walls of the opening.

The casing frame is made in advance from ordinary planed boards. Embedded bars are prepared for it, the cross-section of which should be less than the width and depth of the groove.

The bars are placed in grooves so that they slide freely in them. The casing frame is attached to the bars.

The advantage of this method is its ease of manufacture. Disadvantages are the gap between the embedded bars and the casing, as well as the risk that the screws may come out from the side of the block and jam it in the groove of the opening.
Grooves are cut in the side walls of the opening. For the side posts of the casing frame, a profiled block with a “T-shaped” section is used.

The frame is assembled on site (in the opening itself), placing the pins of the side posts into the grooves of the opening.

The advantage is the absence of gaps in the casing frame. The disadvantage is the complexity of assembly.
Spikes are cut into the side walls of the opening.

Grooves are made in the side posts of the casing frame. The casing is assembled on site.

The advantages and disadvantages are the same as in the second option.

The nuances of expanding windows

Depending on the design idea, the expansion can be vertical or horizontal. Both options require a professional approach and consultation with design organizations. Do not carry out repair work yourself unless you have the appropriate qualifications.

Vertical expansion - combining rooms or a room with a balcony. The window opening is enlarged due to the complete demolition of the wall or part of the wall with a window sill. In this case, the heating battery is installed in a new location and there are certain rules:

You cannot move the radiator to a balcony or loggia. The only option is to place the battery on the opposite wall, inside the room.
After redevelopment, the balcony area of the apartment will still be considered non-residential and will be listed as non-residential premises in all documents.

Please note that in most multi-storey buildings, the wall between the room and the balcony holds the balcony slab and its demolition can cause extensive damage to the building, and casualties are not excluded.

Avoid the collapse of walls and ceilings! Experts insist: you can remove the window and door frames, but you don’t need to touch the partition itself. From the window sill you can organize either a table or a bar counter.

Horizontal expansion of a window opening is an increase in the window structure only in width. Whether it is possible to increase the window opening in an apartment in a similar way should be decided by specialists, since reinforcing elements for the facade may be needed. Entrust the calculation of parameters to trusted builders to avoid any cracks, chips and collapses.

Complexity and pitfalls

Wood is a living material that constantly breathes. After installation on the foundation, the log house must stand from several months to several years before it is subjected to subsequent finishing. Shrinkage can reach 15% of the height of the frame.

Even after shrinkage, in a house that has already been completed, the wood will still continue to breathe. Wood absorbs moisture and releases it depending on the state of the environment and air humidity. The permissible values for changing parameters are 1 centimeter per 1 meter of wall height, that is, a one-story log house will move by 2-2.5 cm, a house or bathhouse with two floors will be up to 5 cm.

When a house breathes, the geometry of the object may be disrupted. The weakest points are window and door openings, since the size of the metal door leaf, window frame and glass does not change. During construction, shrinkage and operation, it is important to ensure that these elements have a rigid and unchanging shape.

Do-it-yourself window replacement

If the house is no longer new and it’s time to change the windows, everything needs to start with careful measurements in several places: few window openings have ideal geometry and the same dimensions. It doesn’t matter what the walls are made of, they “floated” at least a little, and after them the openings changed.

The first step is to dismantle the old window. Everything needs to be deleted

Dismantling and assessing the condition of the opening

After removing the old frames, it is necessary to remove the plaster and polyurethane foam. Either the wall should be exposed, or wooden planks should appear - mortgages, to which it is more convenient to attach the frame.

Mortgages are not a mandatory element of window design, but they are easier to work with. So, if there are wooden planks, we evaluate how damaged they are. If the wood is not rotten or splintered, this is a good sign. Let's check further: take the awl and drive it in about a third of the length. If it doesn’t go in even with a swing, or it’s hard to pull it out - only with pliers or by pushing and pulling hard, then the wood is suitable for further use.

If everything is wrong, you will have to change the mortgages. You remove the unusable ones, install new ones in their place, secure them with nails, self-tapping screws, dowels - depending on the material of the walls, and lay them with mortar (hence the name - mortgages). One point: the bars must be soaked with antibacterial compounds or hot drying oil.

Repair of window sashes and fittings

Next, you should carefully inspect all the sashes removed from the frame. If possible, it is better to remove them so that they do not interfere with you during grinding work.

Also pay attention to the condition of the fittings. As a rule, it is better to replace it with newer, anti-corrosion fittings from old and unsightly ones. This way you will get rid of creaks, cracks, and your windows will simply look neater, they will be easier to clean, and they will illuminate the rooms brighter.

Old putty on windows should also be removed (as a rule, it is petrified and no longer performs its function). In recent years, special acrylic or glass silicone has been used to thoroughly seal the joints between the glass and the window frame. And only then putty is applied, which holds the glass in the frame.

The advantage of acrylic is that it can be painted in the desired color. It is also recommended to consider additional window trim with decorative wooden slats, which will hide the seams and add charm to your windows. Once the acrylic is dry, you can begin painting the windows, first protecting the seals and other elements with masking tape.

Technological stages of casing installation

For successful installation of the pigtail, compliance with the technology will be a prerequisite:

an opening is cut in the wall, which is located at a height of 80 cm from the floor;
a groove or ridge is cut out - this depends on the type of casing chosen;
all wooden elements are impregnated with an antiseptic solution;
insulate the opening around the perimeter using thermal insulation materials.

The casing is installed with mandatory compliance with the technology

To order the manufacture of plastic frames, measurements must be taken after preparing the opening and installing the casing . This avoids incorrect sizes.

Sealing an opening in a new building

Sometimes the question arises, how to seal a window in a wooden house if it has just been built? The reasons may be different: the owners decided to make changes to the project or purchased the structure at a low price and want to modify the design themselves. Unlike an old building, in this case shrinkage has to be taken into account.

The new log house must “sit down”, so its height will decrease. Rigid fastening of any structures to walls is impossible. When shrinking, this can lead to cracks in the logs and other deformations.

The simplest solution to the problem in this case will be the frame method described above. The unnecessary window is removed, but there is no need to disassemble the frame. The frame is installed not in the opening itself, but in the frame of the frame, fastened to the wall using a tongue-and-groove system, and the nails for fastening the frame should not go into the wall.

After this, a lining or block house is attached to the frame in the same way, covering the hole. The internal space and all cracks are filled with insulation, then the cold will not penetrate through the opening. You can install false window shutters on the outside; the inside of the wall is sheathed with clapboard, plasterboard or other materials.

The increase in window openings is not limitless

When planning to increase window openings, it is necessary to follow certain principles. Oversizing your windows over time can lead to unsightly bulges as well as problems associated with their use.

The segmentation of large glazing is determined by its design or fittings that support the opening and closing of the windows. A smaller number of elements in a window allows for a larger glazing surface. This helps improve visual contact with the surrounding landscape and reduces the cost of this window.

The structural elements of the window (frames) with fittings to support the movement of the sashes are the most expensive part of the window. If it is important to combine the interior with the garden without optical barriers, then it is better to choose windows with large sashes without structural divisions.

A large window without imposts may be blank. This ensures unobstructed visual contact with the garden area. Exit to the outside and ventilation of the room is possible thanks to the side opening terrace doors. A comfortable temperature in the vicinity of solid panoramic glazing can be provided by a duct heater or a heating double-glazed window. Restrictions on the permissible window size are aimed primarily at ensuring the durability of the structure and user comfort. Thus, before increasing the window opening, it is worth considering that the manufacturer will not always be able to satisfy the customer’s requirements. He must strictly adhere to his system catalog and can only implement large glazing designs within the permissible limits.

When to cut openings?

There are only three options:

Cut a blank frame, cut out openings after shrinkage;

Cut the frame taking them into account, carry out casing after shrinkage;

Cut the log house taking into account the openings and carry out the casing immediately.

Each method has its pros and cons.

Solid log house without windows and doors

One of the most controversial options, as it has a number of pros and cons that balance each other.

The log house is made in the form of a blind box. It will perfectly hold the geometry and shrink evenly along the entire height of the wall. When designing openings, you can achieve maximum accuracy, since they are cut out only after the object has settled on the foundation. Holes for future windows and doors are marked in place, for a specific structure.

The disadvantages include greater consumption of material, which leads to higher prices already at the stage of purchasing logs. The lack of standard window and door openings forces us to resolve the issue of organizing the ventilation of the facility. Without passages, air exchange in the interior of the log house becomes difficult. The log house simply will not dry, and fungus may form because of this.

The craftsmen who cut the log house will not be able to immediately install structures for filling the openings, which means that they will have to return to this work after a while and overpay the team for visiting the site.

A blind log house is an additional complication in the felling process. Once a certain height of the wall is reached, getting inside the object becomes problematic. It is necessary to organize technological passages or come up with additional auxiliary structures.

This method for log and inset structures would be the best case scenario. But for the customer and the builder it is extremely costly and difficult to implement. Maintenance of the log house during shrinkage turns into a separate quest.

Log house with openings, but without casing

One of the most common solutions due to the price-quality ratio.

Window and door openings are immediately included in the project and implemented at the time of cutting the log house. The log is calculated and purchased taking them into account, which reduces the cost.

It is impossible to leave the opening completely without casing during shrinkage. Therefore, after designing the future locations of windows and doors, rough casing is done. A groove is cut into the vertical ends of the opening into which a guide block is inserted. The casing box is attached to this block.

Rough casing is necessary to maintain the geometry of the opening during shrinkage. The guide bar prevents and/or minimizes the horizontal movement of logs and does not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house, that is, the vertical movement of logs. During operation, the jamb prevents direct pressure from the logs on the window or door structure and is responsible for maintaining rigidity in the horizontal plane.

Even the installed rough frame does not always allow maintaining the ideal geometry of the opening, so during shrinkage these places are reinforced with installation logs. This procedure is almost mandatory for doorways and large windows.

Remaking door and window openings in a log house

Question:

Hello. Is it possible to order an individual consultation on a log house from you? Is this possible based on detailed photos? Cost of consultation? We bought a plot with a log house already installed, at the moment we have questions, since we want a different arrangement of door and window openings than the previous owner planned. There are no openings yet. Thank you.

Nikita Smetanin, Chelyabinsk.

Answer:

Hello Nikita from Chelyabinsk!

There are situations in life when, after the construction of a log house and preliminary outlines of the location of door and window openings, it becomes necessary to change the layout of the premises.

What sometimes happens when the owner of a log house changes (sale to new owners, transfer to relatives, etc.) And the new owners, and sometimes even the oldest owner, have changed the plans for the arrangement of the premises and the previous layout does not fit into the previous plans for the placement of windows and doors.

It becomes more difficult when the openings have already been cut, but they need to be moved, with partial or complete sealing of the previous ones. Because then the structural strength of the log house walls can be significantly compromised.

In each such specific case, a decision is made on the location.

And one more feature. When assembling log houses using the correct construction technologies, the crowns (it makes no difference whether the frame is made of logs or beams) must have dowels along their length, which prevent them from moving to the sides (external or internal), and also thoroughly strengthen the walls.

In 1998, we had to assemble a huge log house with a huge attic above it. The total area was over one and a half hundred square meters. Regular timber with a section of 150*150 mm. The difficulty was that one team began to assemble it, which then, due to disagreements with the tight-fisted owner, parted with it. By what principle the dowels were located in the walls of the log house was completely unclear. There were no marks on the walls indicating their presence, and the owner did not know about them either.

Therefore, when they began to cut out window and door openings in the walls of the log house, they repeatedly fell directly on these dowels.

And this is not good, but there was nowhere to go. Then I had to play around with everything by installing a casing frame and reinforced platbands made of thick edged boards. Which were attached to most of the crowns of the log house.

That is, immediately after cutting out each opening, you should install both the frame and platbands (the latter can be temporary, which are then replaced with permanent ones).

The main rule in this case is that the openings should be no closer than a meter to the corners of the log house, otherwise there may be problems with its strength. It is better to place the openings closer to the middle of the walls.

In addition, it is optimal when there is no more than one door or window opening in the wall, although this does not always work out.

Under the openings (especially doorways) there should be a crown of solid logs or beams, without any cuts. Sampling of sections of wood under such openings is allowed extremely rarely and no more than 1/3 of the cross-sectional area of the element. That is, for example, if the diameter of the bottom log is 30 centimeters, you can remove no more than 10 centimeters from above. Otherwise, the structural strength of the lower casing will be significantly compromised, which can lead to deformation and even fracture of the log (timber).

On top of the openings there should also be solid logs (beams) of the frame. Because the elements of the roof rafter system rest on them.

Regarding consultations, it is better to naturally invite a construction specialist to the work site. It is not always possible to clearly present a detailed picture from photographs.

However, you can send photos. I will help as much as I can. Regarding the payment (and its amount) for consultations, I am not indulged in this, so it is at your discretion.

In any case - good luck!

Construction in Moscow and Moscow region

We work with a guarantee! Wide range of construction services. Foundation, walls, ceilings, roofing, turnkey! +7 (905) 797-20-34
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Warm joint with sealant for log house
Insulation and cladding of a log house made of corrugated timber
Insulation of a log house from the inside
Concrete floors in a log house
Shrinkage of log walls old and new
The procedure for finishing a log house
How to preserve timber from spring to winter
What comes first: flooring or door casing
Dismantling half of an old log house
Types of beam connections
Sealing the joint between the roof and the frame from OCB
Cleaning a log house from old paint
Connection of two log houses
Support column in a log house on stilts
The difference in the shrinkage of a log house between winter and summer felling
Dismantling and moving a house made of profiled timber
Supporting floor beams in a log house
Preparing a log house for winter
Guarantees when cutting a log house on a plot
Chop into a bowl or warm corner
How to lower the ceiling in a log house
The timber turned blue in the rain
Preservation of the log house in a non-temporary gathering place
Consultations on a timber house
Sheathing of a house made of cylinders without insulation
Scheme of a log house with outlets and a ridge roof
How to lay a carriage while lying down
Reinforced concrete slab on a log frame
How to assemble a log house from twisted timber
Repair of a cut in a log house
Installation of a log house on a columnar foundation
The chopped gables of the log house are shaking
Fastening beams in a log house
The top beam in the log house was driven into the screw
How to cover a timber façade
Waterproofing the frame of an old house from the foundation
A log house without nails is being pulled apart
Sheathing a log house
Cutting the lower crown in the log house
Settlement of a log house made of used timber
The log house rotted in the castles
The corners of the log house are rotting
How to strengthen a log house
Work plan for interior finishing of the log house
Log processing procedure
How to lay a log house in the rain
Cut the lower crowns of the log house
Sheathing a log house immediately after construction
Heating and windows in a new log house
Processing the crown of an already built house
Painting a timber house
Blind area and shrinkage of the log house
How to enlarge a house made of timber
Connecting a timber house with a brick extension
Finishing a timber frame with jute rope
Diameter of a log for a permanent home
Treating the log house with an antiseptic during assembly
Reconstruction of a wooden house
Connecting timber in cuttings
Protection of the ends of the timber at the corners of the log house
How to connect two log houses together
Cutting a balcony doorway in a log house
When to casing a newly assembled log house
Insulation of gables made of lining
Gaps between the logs of the log house pediment
How to preserve logs before cutting a log house
Raise the frame to increase the ceiling height
Methods for joining timber in the walls of a log house
Raise a log house to increase the underground floor
Cladding a log house with clapboard before shrinking in winter
When to remove the compensating jacks of a log house
Log house for three years in the open air without a roof
How to make a cut in a log house
Make a house from an old bathhouse (timber)
Moving the log house to another location
Log house hanging on dowels
The fifth wall in a log house made of smaller timber
Should I paint the backing board in a log house?
Remove mats to increase log ceilings
The log house does not match the foundation
Ceiling mats in the log house
Construction from fire monitors
How to remove bark from an already assembled aspen log house
Transporting an old log house
Connecting internal timber walls with external ones
How to repair cracks in a log
Gap between log and foundation
Alignment of the first crown of the log house
Stages of arrangement of the assembled log house
Treatment of the log house after installation in the summer
Processing the ends of the frame from the outside
The log house floated - the walls moved
An old wooden house sank
Leveling the crowns when assembling a log house
How to close the opening between the log house and the foundation
How to straighten a log house
Sheathe a log house with protrusions with corrugated sheets
How to process the ends of a log house
Collecting the first crowns of a timber frame
Riser frame
Preservation of the log house during assembly in rainy times
Forgot to waterproof the log house from the foundation
Installation of log shrinkage compensators
Interventional gaps in a house made of profiled timber
Gaps between logs in a house
Communications and finishing in a timber house
Precision when cutting log houses
Which log house will be warmer?
Log house made of timber 200 by 120
Old log house - reconstruction or demolition
Partitions in a log house
Internal partition in a log house
Beginning of finishing of shrunken timber frame
Double timber construction technology
Processing the log house from the outside
Log shrinkage process
The walls of the log house collapse during shrinkage
Insulation of a log house from the inside
How to build a house from sleepers
The logs were kicked out of the log house
Supports (pillars) instead of crosscuts in a 9x10 house
Do-it-yourself timber log house without experience
Preservation of a house made of rounded logs for the winter
Embed additional beams into the frame
Backing crown - installation tricks
Log house on brick walls
Sequence of work in the log house
How to make a load-bearing partition in a log house
The log house got wet during assembly
How to seal cracks in a log house
Align the vertical wall of a log house
Vents in timber on foundation
Timber 200 by 200 construction nuances
The log house turned blue, what should I do?
How to seal cracks in cutouts from the outside
You can live on the second floor of a log house for shrinkage
Replace rotten logs with mortar
A non-load-bearing log has shrunk
Replacing logs with boards in a house project
Vertical supports in a log house for shrinkage
Does a large log house need recutting?
Metal tiles on a non-shrunken log house
Permissible gaps between timber crowns
Gaps in log beams
Replacing parts of rotten logs in a log house
The logs of the log house are shaking
The log house was poorly assembled
The gap between the log log and the foundation
Protect an unfinished log house for the winter
How to save a log house without a roof
Log finishing service
Assembling a profiled log house in the rain
Gaps when fastening profiled timber
Sealing cracks in a bathhouse
Processing timber with a blowtorch
Butt beam - is it reliable?
The wall of the log house is littered
How to align protruding ends in a built timber house
Transferring beams in a log house in height
The corners of the log house disappear from the timber during assembly
The log house is wet, what should I do?
Does a log house need a fifth wall?
How to assemble a log house 10 by 11
Restoring a log house after a fire
Processing of a log house made of rounded logs
Extension of a log house when replacing the roof
Sand under the crowns for insulation
Methods for lifting a bath to replace the crowns
Impregnation of the log house inside and out
The façade of the log house leaned
Log shrinkage - problems
Treatment of timber against bugs
The smell in the house is from sleepers
How to preserve the light color of a fresh log house
Estimate for a house made of timber 7 to 9
Treatment of exposed ceiling beams
Strengthening the corner of a log house
What is the dowel pitch?
Protection of the lower crown of the log house
How to check the diagonals of a log house
Which timber to choose, square or rectangular?

Construction in Moscow and Moscow region

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Spruce and pine log house
Sequence of work when finishing a timber house
Insulate an aspen log house from the outside
How to install a casing on a log house
What to put between the crowns
Should I trim the paws of a log house?
What is the best way to impregnate a log house?
Window opening in a log house - how to seal it
Gaps in the assembled frame
Support pillars in a timber house
How to move the 5th wall in a log house
Ants and the lower crown of the house
Sanding and processing of the log house after installation
Barked or planed log for log house
Repairing the corner of a log house of an old wooden house
Should window openings in a log house be closed when it is in storage?
Consultation on the size and shape of the log house
Questions about construction from profiled timber
Log house and foam block on a single slab
Preparing an unfinished log house for winter
Longitudinal cuts in a log house
Cracks in the ends of logs
Should I paint a log house with tikuril?
Strengthening the corners of the log house
How to secure a cross beam in a log house
Ventilation gap between insulation and frame
Moss or tow for building a log house
Shrinkage of a timber house
Fifth wall in the log house
How to raise a 6 by 6 log house
Distance from the corner of the frame to the windows or doors
How to cut off the protrusions of the corners of a log house
Log house without nails
How to clean a linden bathhouse from darkening
Impregnation of a log house with fire-bioprotection
Velo log house
Questions about cutting a bathhouse after installation
Painting a log house
Blackness between the crowns of the log house
Types of cutting corners of half beams or carriages
Attaching beam supports to a log wall
Strengthening logs in a log house 7 meters long
How to sort through the log gables of a log house
The beam was squeezed out of the wall
Is a matitsa needed in a 3 by 3 m bathhouse?
Priority work after installing the log house
Entrance door in a log house
Maintaining the level when assembling the log house
The corner of the log house and the lower log have rotted

Construction in Moscow and Moscow region

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The sequence of finishing a timber frame
Insulation of a settled log house
Restoring a burnt larch frame
Quality of a 40-year-old oak log
Permanent roof on a newly assembled log house
Cracks in logs
What time of year is it better to cut a log house for a bathhouse?
What and how to make partitions inside a log house
Ceiling beams in a timber frame
Installation of a metal door in a log house
The crown molding of a log house
Questions about assembling a log house at home
Turnkey log house for a season - is it possible?
Arrangement of the subfloor in a rounded log house
Common roof for a new log house and its extension
Ventilation system in the log house underground
How much does it cost to change the lower crowns of a house?
Finishing the log house after shrinkage
Reinforcement as a dowel for a log house
What to rest the floor joists on in a log house
Attaching timber to a log frame
Cover an old house with a new frame
Extension made of foam blocks to a house made of timber
Wet lower rims of a new timber frame
House made of sleepers
How to cover a log house on screw piles with bricks
How to strengthen the motherboard in a log house
Birch log house
Sauna log - pine or aspen
The lower crowns of a larch frame as a plinth
Adjusting anchors for shrinkage of the log house
How to properly assemble a log house
Octagonal timber frame
Is a fifth wall needed in a log house?
An alternative to dowels when assembling a log house
Problems after shrinkage of the log house
What to make partitions from in a log house
Tongue-and-groove slabs as walls in a log house
Insulation of the log house inside
How to strengthen floor joists in a timber frame
Log houses in Kolomna
House made of timber or frame house
Insulation of a log house from the inside
Work plan after shrinkage of the log house
Squeezed logs out of the log house
Where to start after installing a log bathhouse
Rounded log with Finnish profile
The timber frame is spreading
How to align the geometry of a log house
Large gaps between logs

Construction in Moscow and Moscow region

We work with a guarantee! Wide range of construction services. Foundation, walls, ceilings, roofing, turnkey! +7 (905) 797-20-34
luxurykomfort.ru

Are dowels needed for profiled timber?
Is it worth overpaying for profiled timber?
Repairing the corners of a log house
How to cover an unfinished log house for the winter
The beam bends out of the log house
Construction of a log house in the rain
Processing and insulation of external walls of a log house made of timber
How far can the outer ends of the logs be trimmed?
Ceiling beams 7.5 m in a house made of timber
How to attach a room attached to a house
Technology for assembling a log house from timber
Waterproofing log walls outside
Replacement of the lower crown of an old house
Interior finishing of the corners of the log house in the paw
Dry brown rot in log timber
Shrinkage of timber frame
Roof on only installed log house
How to fill the gaps between the log house and the outbuilding
When to install a log house for a house
How far can the ends of logs be trimmed?
When should a log house be treated with impregnation?
Cutting the end corners of the log house
Leveling timber in a log house
Protection of the log frame from the outside
Replacing log walls with stone
How to seal the gaps between the foundation and the log house
How to cover a timber house
How and with what to seal the gap between the foundation and the log house
Bark on logs - to remove or not?
Sandwich panel or log house?
Preservation of log wood
How to change the lower crown
Settlement of a log house made of laminated veneer lumber
Log house repair
What kind of foundation is needed for a log house made of 9 by 12 m timber?
How much timber is needed for a log house 9 by 12 meters
Foundation for a log house with chopped gables
When to put a roof on a log house
How to seal cracks in a timber frame
Log house on the spring
Preparing a log house for winter
Oak backing for the lower crown of the log house
Log house repair
Photo of a chopped log house

Log houses and their maintenance

All questions to Semenych about construction

Semenych (author of materials)

Our site is regularly updated with interesting and unique materials and articles on the topics of lumber, building materials and works, the author's opinion and knowledge of a real coven with more than 15 years of experience are provided. There is a section - funny stories of shabashniks. If you would like to receive information about this, subscribe to our website's newsletter. We guarantee that your address will not be shared with third parties.

Apartment renovation in Moscow and Moscow region

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