Selection and installation of interior doors in a wooden house


A house built of wood shrinks over time. This must be taken into account when selecting doors for it. All openings in a wooden house undergo special preparation, otherwise the owners may be in for an unpleasant surprise. Frames of door structures may become deformed and the doors in them will cease to function normally. In addition, their appearance will be disrupted and this will create an imbalance in the interior of the room. Interior doors in a wooden house have the same functions as in other buildings, but their installation is much different from usual.

Low tide installation

The final stage of work is finishing. One of its important elements is the ebb above the windows in a wooden house: it is designed to remove rain moisture from the walls and thereby increase their durability. In addition, it covers the lower part of the casing and improves the decorative qualities of the walls.

A wooden house or bathhouse changes in size all the time - it either “sits down” a little, then rises again. Therefore, simply taking and rigidly fastening windows and doors into the openings will not work: either the frames will bend or the walls will “hang” and will not be able to sit down when they dry out. To prevent this from happening, a wooden casing (casing or casing) is installed in the opening, which is held in place only by friction. It is already possible to attach a window or door frame to the elements of this box.

First, let's look at the casing profiles. Fixation due to friction is ensured by a simple tongue-and-groove lock. In one case, a tenon is made on the logs/beam of the opening, in the other, a groove is cut out.

If your bathhouse is wooden - a frame made of logs or timber, then the technology for installing windows and doors will be exactly the same as in the house. No difference. So everything described applies to the bathhouse.

Monolithic casing boxes

The counter part is often made from a solid wooden beam. They are also called monolithic or finishing. Depending on whether the groove is cut or a tenon, the mating part is made U- or T-shaped

Please note that when installing windows or doors, the fasteners should not go into the beam/log of the wall. To ensure proper reliability, the frames are mounted in the “thickest” parts of the casing

The casing is made of timber, in which a groove is selected or a tenon is cut. Accordingly, casing/edge profiles are U- or T-shaped

The material for the casing is monolithic or laminated veneer lumber. The use of laminated veneer lumber in bathhouses is not recommended: when using non-moisture resistant glue (and this usually happens), constant changes in humidity cause the glue to break down and the timber to crumble. Therefore, it is better to use monolithic timber of the required size

Just note that the timber must be dry - no more than 12% humidity. If wet, it will crack or lead

Order chamber-drying timber of the required size from the sawmill, or dry it yourself in the shade in a draft for 4-6 months.

This type of casing is called monolithic or capital. You can already attach a window or door frame to it. If the windows/doors are plastic, the “face” of the casing can be left flat. If you plan to install wooden products, choose a quarter for them.

Which of these two casings/pipelines is considered the best? When done correctly, both perform their tasks normally. Everyone chooses what is easier for them to do.

How to make a tenon on an opening

There are two options - first cut a tenon in the doorway, then make a casing block under it. The second option is to mark the tenon along the finished groove. In any case, markings are applied first.

The width and depth of the tenon should be 4-5 mm less than the dimensions of the groove. The casing is “planted” on the insulation, so space is required for it. The width is marked at the end of the logs/beams, the depth - on the side surface of the walls

When marking, it is important to maintain the verticality of the lines.

Next, take a circular saw or chain saw and make cuts according to the marks.

In this case, it is important to maintain the required cutting depth on the side surfaces and not cut off the tenon completely. If you are not very good with a chain saw, it is better to use a circular saw - you won’t be able to cut very deep there.

For an example of the formation of a spike, see the video.

Making a groove in the opening

It’s safer to make a groove: even if the cuts are too deep, you don’t have to remove the entire core; in extreme cases, you’ll make the tenon on the post larger.

Everything is simpler here: you mark the width of the groove at the end. In this case, it is 4-5 mm larger than the groove on the casing/pipe. Make two cuts and remove the middle between them. There are virtuosos who do this with a chain saw, but mostly they work with an axe, then they work part-time with a chisel.

The nuances of installing doors in a log house

In the normal case, when installing a casing system, there is no need to install the box. The exception is when wooden lining is used as a finishing material. In this case, the box is placed on polyurethane foam. After installation, the box is closed with platbands. If shrinkage occurs, they can be reattached again or new ones installed.

A very common question is: how to install a metal door in a log house? The casing installation methods remain unchanged. The only thing is that you don’t have to install the top bracket. Instead, you should leave a gap of 10 cm. This will allow shrinkage to occur naturally. In this case, the surfaces are not damaged or deformed. The advantage of a metal door is its strength. The metal box is able to withstand almost any wood pressure during shrinkage.

It is worth following the recommendations regarding the size of the doorway. The height of the opening should be 15 cm larger. This is necessary so that you can install the upper frame from a board with a section of 150 * 50. This also applies to the width of the opening. It should be 12 cm larger than the door leaf. For the manufacture of side carriages, timber is used, the size of which is 150 * 100 mm.

To prevent the formation of cold bridges, it is worth taking care of high-quality thermal insulation. To do this, the carriage is attached to the ridges (before installation) with tow. All cracks and gaps that are formed can be filled with foam.

Sometimes it happens that after the walls are erected, openings for all windows and doors are immediately cut out, leaving no fixing elements left. If casing is not done in time, such an opening will become deformed after the house shrinks. This situation can be eliminated: for this you should use a 50*100 or 100*150 mm beam with a length of at least 2 meters. It must be secured on the side where the deformation occurred. For fastening, you need to use 6x150 mm self-tapping screws. Two screws must be attached to one log

It is very important to pre-make all the holes for the screws in the timber.

To tighten and eliminate wall deformation, the timber is fastened alternately up and down, approaching the center. As a result of this work, the opening should be leveled. In order to eliminate holes from self-tapping screws, you can use veneer or special wood putty.

Advantages of metal doors

Metal doors have a number of advantages:

  • aesthetic appearance. A wide range of entrance doors will help you choose a model to suit every taste. An iron door will harmoniously fit into the interior of a wooden building. The choice of model depends on your preferences and financial capabilities;
  • strength. Metal is much stronger than wood. The steel door block can withstand high loads. It does not deform from impacts, does not change its positive properties due to temperature changes;
  • durability. The strength and reliability of the material contributes to the long service life of the product;
  • safety. A metal door is difficult to break down. A steel door, strong hinges and multi-level locking mechanisms are the key to the safety of your property. Instead of a regular metal door, you can install a safe door. It is distinguished by high reliability indicators, because it consists of 2 steel sheets with a thickness of at least 1.5 mm and has stiffening ribs. Equipped with two locks of different designs: level and pin;
  • moisture resistance. If the door is installed correctly, then water cannot get inside and freeze. The canvas is usually insulated or additional insulation is used;
  • fire resistance. A metal door prevents the spread of fire and smoke during a fire.

Cutting methods

To cut a doorway with your own hands, you will need a tool, but you can choose it correctly after determining the method of work being carried out. The method depends on the wall material. It is not advisable to chisel and sledgehammer, as the integrity of the entire partition will be compromised. You can carefully cut the opening using diamond, laser, waterjet or oxygen cutting.

Diamond cutting

For concrete partitions, the method of diamond cutting of a doorway using a grinder or circular saw is used. The cutting element of the tool is a metal disk coated with diamond.

The diamond cutting method has many advantages:

  • low level of vibration eliminates the appearance of cracks even on loose partitions;
  • during the cutting process, an accurate thin cut is entrusted along the marked contour and at the desired angle;
  • the noise level of a working tool does not exceed the permissible threshold specified in sanitary standards;
  • a small amount of debris due to the absence of chips, which is impossible to achieve when using a hammer drill.

Among the shortcomings

highlight the costs of purchasing expensive diamond blades. During work, the concrete wall is moistened with water, but fine dust still spreads into the room.

Laser cutting

Expensive equipment is used for laser cutting of openings. Previously, it was bulky and was used only in production. Modern laser cutting equipment is compact, but its high cost and specific purpose have made it popular only among specialized repair teams. The cutting of a concrete wall is made with a laser cutter due to the gas-discharge action.

Before starting work, the parameters of the wall

:

  • thickness;
  • the presence of a reinforcing frame;
  • passage of communications inside the partition;
  • grade of reinforced concrete wall.

Additionally, the floor of the apartment building where cutting is planned is taken into account, as well as the admissibility of wetting the concrete structure with water.

Waterjet cutting

Cold cutting of an opening in a wall refers to the waterjet method. A special installation is used for work. It creates a strong stream of water at a speed of 1 thousand m/s. The liquid in the tank is mixed with abrasive particles with a diameter of about 0.4 mm. The prepared mixture is fed through a nozzle onto the reinforced concrete structure and destroys it at the point of contact. The cutting force depends on the pressure. At the maximum power of the equipment, a reinforcing frame made of steel rods is cut along with the concrete.

The waterjet cutting method has the following advantages:

  • precise cutting of concrete according to markings;
  • the environment is not polluted due to the absence of chemical impurities and harmful gases;
  • the concrete partition is not subject to mechanical and thermal stress;
  • no wall vibration;
  • low noise level;
  • The method allows you to cut out a section of the partition at any angle, as well as make a doorway of complex shape.

Disadvantage

is the formation of dirt, the high cost of consumables, and the large dimensions of the equipment. Waterjet cutting is used on construction sites that have not been put into operation.

Oxygen cutting

The oxygen cutting method is also called spear drilling. To cut out a doorway, a machine with a metal tube is used. Oxygen is supplied through the spear under high pressure. At the same time, the jet is heated inside the tube to a temperature of 1400°C using a gas burner. After the spear has ignited, the external heating source is turned off. When the temperature reaches 2000°C, the tube is leaned against the concrete surface and turned slightly. During cutting, you cannot move the spear away from the concrete, as it cools quickly.

The disadvantage of this method is considered to be a fire hazard, as well as the possibility of getting burned. During cutting, hot slag particles scatter throughout the room.

Technology for cutting window and door openings

Openings for windows and doors can be cut in two different ways:

  1. The openings are cut after the house has completely settled. Initially, a solid wooden frame is installed, without window or door openings. And only when the house has completed its final shrinkage (usually after 12 months), window and door openings are cut along the intended boundaries. It should be noted that due to the significant amount of waste generated, this method of cutting openings is much more expensive.
  2. Window and door openings are cut directly during the manufacturing process of the log house. At the same time, in the places of the openings it is necessary to make cuts for the joinery and cut vertical grooves at the ends of the walls. Bars are subsequently inserted into these grooves, the task of which is to perform a guiding function during the subsequent shrinkage of the house. The remaining gap in the upper part of the grooves is insulated. Strict adherence to construction technology guarantees smooth, beautiful and compact openings for windows and doors.

Whatever cutting technology you choose, you should mark the locations of windows and doors in advance so that it does not turn out that dowels and dowels are already installed in place of the windows or doors. Installation of dowels and dowels must be done on those walls where it is planned to cut down more than two windows. Otherwise, such a wall may sag under the weight of the roof.

Currently, cutting out window and door openings occurs as follows: they begin cutting down the log house, leaving openings that are somewhat smaller in size than required by the project. Then, in the middle of the opening, one continuous crown is passed through (as when constructing a blank wall). This is done every 3-4 crowns. These logs are cut only after the house has completely settled. It should be noted that window and door openings with this cutting method are usually made several centimeters narrower than necessary, which simplifies the process of final alignment of the openings.

Cutting out the openings is carried out using a chainsaw, while the upper and lower logs are cut only halfway, which simplifies the further implementation of the staking.

Framing is a process of casing openings, which prevents their deformation. Thanks to the socket, the crowns of the timber can move freely during vertical shrinkage, preventing the logs from being squeezed out.

By opening method

Doors are:

  • swing;


Stylish swing doors

  • sliding;


Sliding doors

  • folding;

Beautiful doors - folding, with large glass inserts in a wooden frame

Swing

The most common design of interior doors is swinging, when the doors open in different directions. Distinctive features of this design:

  • easy installation;
  • ensures a tight fit of the door leaf to the opening. Preventing the penetration of noise and odors;
  • convenient to use – opening and closing is easy;
  • variety of shapes, designs, materials of manufacture.


Hinged doors with beautiful relief


Hinged doors to the terrace

Sliding

Unlike hinged ones, sliding structures save space, freeing up useful space. There are double-sided and single-sided designs. In small rooms, a one-sided canvas that extends to one side saves space.

This is especially felt in apartments with cramped corridors. Coming out of the bath, pushing the door aside, a person moves freely to the next room - without touching anyone, without making much effort.


Sliding design

In this case, the door enters the interior space of the wall. Installation is complex, so it is carried out at the stage of apartment renovation. There are designs in which the door leaf moves over the wall. Typically, such doors are made from lightweight materials, such as plasterboard. The door is lightweight and easy to open. It can be painted in any color to match the background of the interior.

A contrasting door refreshes the design, a white one adds airiness to the interior, and a mirror door visually increases the space

For those who love fashionable new items, manufacturers offer glass sliding doors. The glass can be transparent or tinted.

A white glass sliding door will decorate a modern interior in a minimalist style. In addition to functionality, it visually expands the volume of a small room.


Glass door with contrasting wall

Mirror inserts on the door leaf visually expand the room, in this case the bathroom


Doors complement and highlight the colors of the apartment

Chrome-plated shiny handles fit perfectly into the high-tech style


Interesting combination of black wall and wood

By choosing an elegant finish in the form of parallel wood strips, you can create an exclusive door design, as in this case:


Door with parallel slats

An elegant interior in an apartment can be created using a glass door with a light pattern on a matte surface. At the same time, an element of airiness and grace is introduced into neutrality.


Glass door with a pattern

In modern interiors, stylish all-glass interior doors in aluminum profile are popular, allowing you to realize any designer’s plans.


Stylish design

By choosing a wide area of ​​glass, you can ensure maximum sunlight. So, having arranged the bathroom, you can admire the surrounding landscape, and even sunbathe, with the door slightly open.


Solid glass sheet: door and wall in one

A bright glass door can serve as an apartment decoration - standing out as a soft spot against the general gray-blue background.


Bright red door in the interior

Art Deco lovers can use black doors in a white interior:

Mysterious design creates a feeling of stepping into another dimension

The combination of white and cream colors creates a soft design, it is pleasant to relax in such a home

White doors with glass inserts create a unified interior in a white room, while the apartment looks majestic and creates a feeling of being filled with light

Folding doors

The doors can open like an accordion. It is somewhat more difficult to create a modern partition door of this design, but the effective result of privacy of a dedicated corner with the ability to view the entire apartment is achieved.


Door with accordion

An “accordion” in combination with a grille can serve as an interior decoration:


Folding door with bars

Accordion-fold glass doors framed by a metal profile fit into the design of the entrance to the terrace, providing a large flow of air and light into the room.


Doors to the terrace - original design

How to embed a steel door into a log house - preparatory work

A steel door is installed in almost the same way as any other. Before installing a metal door in a log house, you need to perform preparatory work:

  • prepare the opening;
  • adjust its size;
  • fasten the box to the opening with anchor plates, self-tapping screws or steel rods;
  • foam all technological gaps;
  • hang the door leaf.

Usually the block is placed flush with the plane of the wall - the door is attached using anchor plates.

If desired, it can be made recessed into the opening - the door frame-frame is fixed using anchor bolts or steel pins that can replace factory anchors.

When installing a door in a log house, a combined method is more reliable, when installation is carried out on anchors that are bent along the entire surface of the doorway, as well as on pins or bolts.

Standard sizes of anchor bolts are 10–15 cm in length and 12–15 mm in diameter. The anchors can be replaced with pieces of steel rod of identical sizes.

The frame of a steel door with the leaf removed is installed in the opening, placing wooden wedges under it along the entire perimeter for subsequent adjustment of the position of the product and fixing the frame. In addition, they will allow for technological clearances.

When checking the verticals and horizontals with the building level, the wedges are shifted in the desired direction: they are removed or driven deeper. When the correct position is found, the frame will be firmly secured with wedges so as not to move when drilling holes. Through the mounting holes, recesses are made for the anchors in the wall with the appropriate dimensions.

Then hang the door leaf to check its movement: it should open and close freely. After this, it is removed, fasteners are placed on the false side, the lintel and threshold are fixed, and hung again for re-checking. If necessary, change the position of the box, tighten or loosen the nuts.

Now they leave only the door frame in the opening and cover it with construction tape to protect it from the foam. Afterwards, all technological indentations from the wall are foamed and the resulting excess is cut off. When the polymerization of the foam is completed, you need to hide all areas treated with it by cashing.

Additional elements when installing a second door

An important element when installing a door block is the threshold. Without installing the threshold, cold bridges arise, the house has to be additionally insulated, sound insulation properties are reduced, and foreign odors penetrate into the house.

You can install a second door made of wood, it will be warmer and quieter. Most often, a handle with a regular latch is installed on the second door, but it is best to install a locking mechanism, which will create an additional obstacle to entering the house.

Between the doors in the opening, additional elements made of planed boards are also installed around the perimeter of the opening. They are puttied with wood putty and painted.

How to insert interior doors in a bathhouse

In principle, installing interior doors in a bathhouse is similar to installing an entrance door: you need to assemble the frame, equip the door leaf and frame beam with fittings, set it in the ideal position and finally secure the frame in the opening, then hang the door leaf and finish the structure with platbands.

The most painstaking installation process is the construction of the box. If it is assembled incorrectly, there will be problems with the operation of the door, so all measurements must be taken carefully. It is quite possible to make a box yourself in the shape of the letter P. To do this, you will need 3 bars for the hinge beam, the ceiling strip and the door stand. If a threshold is planned, you will need another beam for arrangement from below. Then the assembled box will look like a rectangle.

A doorway that is too large can be reduced using drywall: fill the required size bars around the entire perimeter.

At this stage, the dimensions of the canvas and the opening are accurately determined (all measurements are performed with one ruler), the dimensions of the lintel and racks are calculated, not forgetting about the technological gaps, and then the parts are correctly sawed off and connected into a single whole.

The thickness of the timber for the frame should not be less than the thickness of the door leaf. You need to measure the opening and the length of the door separately on the left and right, since they may not be identical; all deviations must be taken into account when working.

For polyurethane foam, leave a gap of 0.3 cm on the side of the false, loop and lintel beams and on their inside. If the door frame has a threshold, then the gap should go around the entire perimeter. If the door frame is U-shaped, a gap of 1 cm is provided between the floor and the lower plane of the leaf.

To cut timber for a door frame, you will need a cross-cutting machine (it can also be replaced with a miter box with a hand saw). The individual elements of the box are connected at an angle of 45°. This method is quite complicated for a non-professional, but careful joining looks great. To connect individual elements, you will need self-tapping screws. For them, holes are drilled through, which should run perpendicular to the cut.

All holes for screws in the door structure are made in advance. They are not drilled completely with a drill measuring 3/4 of the diameter of the fastener being mounted. Self-tapping screws must be threaded throughout the entire barrel.

Another way to connect box parts is with a 90° angle using a fine-toothed hacksaw.

The dimensions of the internal vertical line of the wooden blocks are equal to the sum of the lengths of the door leaf. If the door has a threshold, you need to provide 3 mm at the top and 3 mm at the bottom.

If the door does not have a threshold, about 10 mm should be left below. The lintel crossbar is attached to the posts using two self-tapping screws on each side. The timber for the threshold is cut exclusively at a right angle. The box is assembled on a horizontal surface (for example, on a floor covered with cardboard, or on two tables placed close to each other).

When installing door hinges, remember that according to the standard, 20 cm are deviated from the bottom and top edges. If there is a third hinge, then you need to place it at a distance of 50 cm from the top of the leaf. When attaching hinges to the box, take into account the technological gaps.

The “landing areas” for door hinges should be such that the flag is flush with the door leaf and frame.

It is advisable to fasten all the fittings before the box is assembled, since it is necessary to provide veneer for the hinges on the hinged timber.

As for the handle with a latch, according to standards it should be located at a distance of 0.9-1.2 m from the floor.

It is recommended to close the anchors for fixing the box in the opening on top with a lock strike plate and hinge flags. Then the door structure will hold perfectly on three long screws. To screw in screws, holes are made in the frame beam.

When the door frame is assembled, it is carefully lifted and placed in the opening. To leave gaps, wedges cut from leftover wood material are inserted between the wall and the frame. When the base is leveled vertically and horizontally using a plumb line and a building level, you can screw in the screws, hang the door leaf on the hinges and check the operation of the entire door structure: there should be no distortions or differences in the gap between the leaf and the frame. The box is sealed with construction tape along the future layer of foam. Then cardboard is inserted into the gap around the perimeter of the entire canvas and the door is closed. After this, carefully foam all the cavities around the door frame (until the foam has completely hardened, the door cannot be used).

All that remains is to cover all the seams with platbands, and the installation of the interior door is complete. All doors in the bathhouse are installed in the same way.

Dimensions and equipment

Interior doors are produced in standard sizes, it’s just a pity that standards differ in different countries. For example, in our country, swing doors are made 600 - 900 mm wide with a pitch of 100 mm. In some EU countries the rules are the same - in Germany, Italy and Spain. In France, others are standard. Here the narrowest doors are 690 mm and then in increments of 100 mm.

Is the difference really that important? If you want to change only the door leaf without the frame, then it is important - you will have to choose from your segment or completely change it along with the frame. There is a much greater choice of interior doors of the same standard as in our country, while in France there is much less choice.


Recommended door leaf width for different door frame sizes

What width of doors you need depends on where you are going to place them. If we talk about standards, the following values ​​are recommended:

  • in the living room width from 60 to 120 cm, height 2 m;
  • bathroom - width from 60 cm, height 1.9-2 m;
  • in the kitchen, the width of the door leaf is at least 70 cm, height 2 m.

If, when replacing a door, it is decided to make the opening larger/smaller, permission is not required for this, but it is necessary to remain within the limits specified for each room.

How to determine what width of doors to buy? Measure the door leaf you have and you will know what you need. If there are no doors, find the narrowest place in the opening, measuring it, you can find out how wide the door block you need. This is a door leaf + door frame. So the outer dimensions of the door frame should be less than the measured value. For example, you got 780 mm, look for a block with parameters of 700 mm. Wider ones cannot be inserted into this opening.


The most complete set of interior doors - with frame, extensions and trims

When choosing a door, pay attention to the equipment. There are three types of assembly:

  • Door leaf. You buy the box separately.
  • Doors with frame. Everything is included, but the box is in the form of separate boards. You will have to file the corners and connect, hang the hinges yourself.
  • Door block. These are ready-to-install doors - the frame is assembled, the hinges are hung. Just cut the sidewalls to the height, align them evenly and secure them.

Even though the quality of the door leaf is the same, the prices for these kits differ significantly. But the difference in the time you spend on installation is significant.

How to make a doorway in a wooden wall

To cut a doorway in a wooden house you will need a chainsaw or electric saw.

Additionally, they stock up with bars with a cross-section of 10*10 cm. The length of the blanks is equal to the height of the room. The bars are needed to strengthen the wall. When cutting out a doorway, the wooden partition can bend. To avoid deformation of the structure, the bars are placed vertically on both sides of the wall near the slots for the future passage. Through holes are drilled in the racks and partition and the structure is tightened with long bolts.

To properly make an opening for a house made of logs, make sure that there is a solid element on top of the passage. This will be the load-bearing jumper. The markings are applied so that an additional 1/5 of the thickness of the whole log remains at the bottom and top of the passage during cutting.

Sawing laminated veneer lumber with a chainsaw can result in the boards delaminating. To prevent destruction of the material, nail the bars with long nails near the cut site. At the end of sawing, the passage is strengthened and the temporary bars are removed.

To arrange a doorway in a frame house, the sheathing along with the internal insulation is first dismantled. After cutting, a timber frame is installed around the perimeter of the passage. The thermal insulation along with the sheathing is returned to its place.

How to make a doorway in a brick wall

The steps involved in punching an opening in a brick wall are different from cutting a concrete panel. The masonry consists of rows with bandaged seams. The top of the doorway should line up with the joint. You cannot cut bricks lengthwise. Such actions will weaken the tub and cracks will appear along the partition.

After applying the markings, they begin to strengthen the opening in the brick wall by inserting the upper lintel. A row of bricks is selected above the marked line. A lintel longer than the width of the passage is built into the void.

Further actions are aimed at cutting an opening in a brick wall with the selected tool. If the masonry can be disassembled, then it is wiser to pick out the bricks with a pry bar. The seams are drilled with an electric drill. Uneven protrusions at the ends of the doorway are leveled with a grinder.

Installing an entrance door to a log house

There are several options for installing entrance doors in a wooden house. The most common are the following:

  • using casing;
  • installation on bars;
  • installation of a metal door.

When using the first method, the entrance doors to a log house are installed in a casing. It, in turn, is attached to the wall using a special longitudinal tenon (its width is 5 cm, height is 3.8 cm), installed in a pre-made groove. It is made using a milling cutter, and then compacted with tow using a chisel.

The second method differs slightly from the first. Instead of a tenon pre-installed in the box, a beam with a cross section of 5*5 cm is used. It is also fixed in grooves pre-sealed with tow, and then the box is attached to it. This connection is less reliable and durable, but cheaper.

The third method, installing an iron entrance door in a log house, has become more and more common lately. The reasons for this are quite clear - steel products are rightly considered the most reliable and durable, allowing to achieve the highest possible level of safety.

In this case, there is no need to perform any additional grooves or other auxiliary work. The metal door frame is fastened using a conventional hammer drill and anchor bolts. Naturally, during installation you should carefully check the verticality of the mounted racks and other elements.

Since the mass of a metal entrance door is quite large, it is recommended to hang the door after the frame is installed and finally secured in the opening. This will somewhat facilitate the installation procedure and subsequent alignment of the structure.

Whatever installation method the future owner chooses, when installing the front door in a log house, several basic points should be observed:

  • Before installing door and window fillings, it is necessary to give the house time to shrink;
  • Before installing structures, you should check the geometric dimensions of the openings, their verticality and horizontality;
  • before starting work, you should first decide on the method of installing the front door, and then fully equip the object with everything necessary;
  • It is advisable to install entrance doors with one or two assistants. This is especially true when installing metal doors. It is also recommended to involve specialists, since the work in question is extremely important and is not simple.

The next important question is how to install the door

in a bathhouse with your own hands with walls made of rounded logs, for example, with a diameter of 200 mm. Moreover, its walls are built from rounded logs, say ø200 mm. The technology for installing such doors in bathhouses, and even more so in a steam room, has its own characteristics. This is what we will look at in this article.

Features of wooden houses

It’s good to have your own home, especially if you know the features of a wooden house. A wooden house is an environmentally friendly structure that allows you to enjoy unity with nature. But in order to make this piece of paradise truly cozy, you need to know how to furnish the house, install a door for a wooden house, an interior door or an entrance door.

As mentioned above, unlike brick buildings, a wooden house requires more attention. In order for an interior door for a wooden house to stand for a single year and not warp, you need to know several nuances of its installation:

  • installation of a door leaf or window block is possible only a year after the construction of the house;
  • The installation of interior doors should begin after the roof of the house is installed.

The time it takes for a building to shrink depends on several factors:

  • humidity of the base material (wood can be dried or wet);
  • weather conditions in this region.

Under the influence of such factors, the door frame warps or completely fails, so compliance with all installation rules is mandatory.


Interior door designs

How to strengthen a lintel over an opening

Before starting the construction of the opening, it is necessary to install a lintel.

A part of the wall will rest on it, which will remain above the future opening, which will remain from:

  • Floor resting on the wall.
  • Walls of the upper floor.
  • Roof structures.

The safety of the wall structure and the entire house depends on the rigidity of the lintel. When developing lintel drawings, it is necessary, in addition to previously obtained information, to take into account several more factors, which should be:

  • The dimensions of the opening relative to the entire wall area.
  • The distance between the opening and adjacent walls.
  • Dimensions from the ceiling to the upper border of the opening.
  • Type and placement of floor slabs.

There are several ways to strengthen the lintel.

Most popular:

From two channels.

When making an opening in the wall, you can build a prefabricated reinforced concrete lintel, which will consist of two profile corner sections. For this:

  1. a niche is cleared in places where the corners will rest on both sides;
  2. a thick layer of cement mortar no lower than grade M100 is applied;
  3. a reinforced concrete beam is laid;
  4. after the mortar has set, the voids between the wall and the beam are filled with cement mortar, the grade of which is at least M50.

  1. after the solution has hardened, the opening can be knocked out;
  2. wrap it with mesh, as in the photo, and plaster it (see).

How to make an opening in a load-bearing wall

It's easier to make a hole in a brick wall.

Wherein:

  • It is enough to remove one row of brickwork
  • All remaining rows can be removed without much difficulty.

Reinforced concrete is more difficult to dismantle.

You will need:

  • Bulgarian.
  • Hammer.

Instructions for cutting the opening:

  • The grinder disk is immersed into the wall to its full depth.
  • Vertical slits are made in increments of approximately 60 centimeters.
  • Horizontal lines are then cut with the same step.
  • The resulting cubes are knocked out with a puncher.
  • The following layers are removed in the same way.
  • If the thickness of the load-bearing wall is standard, such notches are made on both sides. In this case, the internal residue is removed in one cut.

This method is used for internal load-bearing walls located in panel houses. In external load-bearing walls, cutting will need to be done several times on each side.

Final design of the opening

The final completion of the reinforcement of the metal structure is as follows:

  • They are connected by welding with transverse channel plates on both sides of the wall. Plates are used with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and a width of more than 5 centimeters, which depends on the instructions in the developed project and technical specifications.
  • The elements are distributed in increments of 30-40 centimeters along the entire perimeter of the completed opening.
  • At the same time, the channel is welded in previously inaccessible places until the opening has been cut.
  • The inside of the opening is plastered and a reinforcing metal mesh is installed, which will be welded onto the channel.
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