Window strip for siding: dimensions and step-by-step installation instructions

Additional elements play an important role in the siding installation process. Otherwise they are called “accessories”, “additional profiles” or “components”. These building cladding materials are made in the same color scheme as the panels. Therefore, you can always buy components that ideally match all the parameters of the main finishing material - siding lamellas (panels).

Window siding strip

Why do you need a window strip?

The window strip protects the window opening from moisture.
The weak point of any cladding is the joints and seams . Manufacturers are trying to develop an assembly technology that would minimize their number or hide them securely. Siding is no exception. During assembly, the joints between the lamellas are closed automatically thanks to the “tenon-to-groove” connection method. However, when joining slats at corners, near window and door openings, difficulties arise.

Framing the window opening will give the facade an aesthetically finished look. But in reality its purpose is different. The “frame” around the opening protects the joints of the siding with the window and prevents moisture from penetrating under the siding or through the opening into the room. A window strip is a special element that allows you to hide the ends of the slats and close the joints.

A profile of this kind is not always needed . Siding and all additional elements are designed to certain standards. For example, a window opening, according to European requirements, is recessed into the wall by 13 cm. However, in private construction it is not uncommon for a double-glazed window to be literally flush with the wall. The opening has to be framed using another profile - J-bar .

When installing wooden windows, a strip is required. Metal-plastic ones can do without it. According to the standards, such a window goes 1/3 deep into the wall. Here the slopes turn out to be larger than the size of the plank, so there is no need for it.

Which window slopes are better - let’s look into the details

So, the installation of windows with your own hands is completed, and you are thinking, which window slopes are better? After all, you need to know both the pros and cons? Let's ask the experts!

To understand this issue, you need to find out what advantages and disadvantages each type of finish has.

Plaster slopes

The “oldest” type of window opening has a number of advantages:

Acceptable price. If you order work from craftsmen, now only the work is assessed, without taking into account the materials. In addition, you can easily install this type of slope yourself;
Resistance to mechanical stress. Unlike plastic and plasterboard analogues, plastered slopes are not so fragile, and this is a very decisive factor for owners who decide which slopes are best for a window;
Seamless installation. When installing a plastered slope, there are no seams or edgings, there is no need to worry about joining the sheets, and the process of puttying the window brings the surface to an almost perfectly flat layer.
Easy to install. Even a beginner, in principle, can independently plaster a slope; this requires a minimum of tools, materials, and labor costs;
Versatility of use. This type of slope can be used in any room, at any temperature.

However, like every type of finish, these window slopes also have disadvantages:

Installation duration. The installation principle is to apply the mixture layer by layer. In addition, the next layer can be laid only when the previous one has dried, and this automatically extends the production time to 5 days, which is not very convenient;
Formation of condensation. This type of slopes for windows is “cold”, since it does not contain materials with heat-insulating properties, which leads to moisture condensation and the subsequent formation of mold;
Cracks. The plaster slopes do not adhere closely to the plastic windows, which ultimately leads to peeling.

Plasterboard slopes

When deciding which window slopes are better, many choose the plasterboard option. Let's look at what exactly attracts them so much:

Simple device technology. Without a doubt, any beginner can make such slopes for windows; it will only be enough to purchase the material;
Installation speed. With skill, installation of one slope takes no more than 2 hours;
Low cost. Materials for work are quite accessible to all consumers, and this is often the most decisive argument when deciding which slopes for windows are better.

Exposure to moisture. In the presence of excess moisture, this slope, unfortunately, can collapse, and the same moisture can cause the formation of mold, which simply cannot be removed from the plasterboard sheet; the damaged sheet will need to be replaced;
Major renovation. If for other types a partial replacement is possible, then here, as already written above, a complete rework of the slope will have to be carried out.
Indoor use only. While plastered window slopes can also be installed outdoors, plasterboard ones are intended exclusively for “working” indoors.

Plastic slopes

This option for slopes is the “youngest”, and now more than half of consumers are in favor of this finish when deciding which slope is best for a window.

So, the undeniable advantages:

Smooth surface. Of course, no one will argue about the smoothness and evenness of the surface of the plastic being produced today;
Quick installation. The simplest type of installation that you can imagine, if you are not yet a master of your craft, and you are choosing which slope for the window is best. We advise you to opt for plastic options;
Clean work. There will not be as much dirt and debris as when working with plastered window slopes and drywall;
No finishing work. There is no need for painting or puttying of the seams - it’s installed and that’s it, the work is finished;
Color selection. Manufacturers today can please consumers with a wide variety of product colors;
Additional thermal insulation. This material provides additional thermal insulation to the slopes, which is also a very tangible advantage when deciding which slopes are better for windows;
Possibility of replacement. If in the case of gypsum craton it is necessary to completely repair the slope, then a partial replacement can be completely sufficient.

Disadvantages of plastic slopes for windows:

Damage. These slopes do not “tolerate” mechanical damage;
Price. Despite the affordable price for this type of finishing, it is still worth choosing more expensively, since cheaper analogues may change color when exposed to sunlight, and your boiling white slopes may become dirty yellow after six months, and hidden ones may also become visible stiffening rib;
Inconsistency between the colors of the panels themselves and the fittings. Often there is no available color of fittings that would match the shade of the panels themselves, especially if you have chosen some exotic option;
Inconsistency with the interior. Often, this option for window decoration does not suit the designer’s idea, especially if the interior is designed in a classic style;
Number of additional extras. Only all purchased planks, profiles and corners will guarantee your room an ideal look.

So, here is a fairly detailed analysis of the most common finishing options, read, think, and then you will find your own answer as to which window slopes are better.

Dimensions and features

Dimensions of the additional element
The dimensions of the near-window strip for siding are determined by the manufacturers :

length 304 cm, slope width 15 cm, external width 7.5 cm;
length 308, slope 23.5 cm, and the size of the outer part is 8 cm;
305, 23 and 7.4 cm respectively.

The first option is called a narrow one, the other 2 are called a wide plank, sufficient to cover the slopes. They produce models of only standard dimensions , so when facing old houses, difficulties arise with the design.

The color and texture of the planks match the shade and texture of the siding. Often, a strip of a contrasting tone is chosen to highlight openings.

What is a J-bevel

J-chamfer is a profile whose shape resembles a window strip, mainly used for lining cornices with soffits.

differences between a J-chamfer and a window strip

front part - width is smaller - 4.5 cm
slope part - has stripes
Available only in white or brown

comparison of window strip and J-chamfer J-chamfer can be used to frame openings, but few people do this, because the width of the front part is small - visually an opening with a narrow platband looks less impressive

Protective and fastening elements

other profiles to decorate the window :

J-profile is a universal option that replaces almost all connecting parts. Used to hide the edges of the sheathing;
window - used to decorate slopes;
finishing strip - elements are attached to it;
chamfer - together with the finishing strip, replaces the window strip;
platband is a decorative element, but if the window is on the 1st level with the facade, it is used instead of a window strip.

In extreme cases, the frame can be made from slats with your own hands.

Framing openings with intersections at corners

Framing with an intersection “at a corner” is one of the most used options for framing openings.

Requirements for elements:

use four platbands (two platbands each for framing the sides, as well as two for the top and bottom of the opening);
the height and width of the elements must strictly correspond to the same parameters of the opening.

Trimming elements:

the ends of the upper horizontal platband must be cut at an angle of 45°;
at an angle of 45° on the two side trims, only the lower ends need to be cut (Fig. 23c), leaving the upper ends cut at 90°;
the upper casing is cut on both sides (cut length 20 mm) (Fig. 23a), after which the cut sections are folded to the bottom so that they form the so-called “tongues” - elements that will subsequently drain water into the side casings from the top;
experts recommend cutting the upper edge of the side trims at the place of perforation for nails, cutting off a section with the width of the perforation tape up to the second fold of the element and 20 mm long from the top edge, bringing the edge of the cut to the top edge of the side trim at an angle of 45°; on the opposite side of the side casing, the fasteners are also cut off 20 mm in length to the junction with the rear part of the casing;
the lower trim on both sides is cut similarly to the upper edge of the side trims with the only difference: when making a cut from the side of the nail strip, it is cut in an L-shape, the length of the cut should be 20 mm, there is no need to make a cut at 45°.

Design of window strips for siding

The profile is presented in the form of a corner with different widths of the inner and outer parts and with a specially shaped edge. There are 3 parts of the product .

The inner one is larger in size. Covers seams and slopes. At the same time it acts as a retainer.
The outer one is smaller in size. Protects the ends of the lamellas that fit tightly with it. Acts as a frame.
J-element – fixing part. This is a U-shaped edge that connects the panels in one plane. There are oval holes along the edge for fastening.

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It is recommended, if possible, to purchase planks with dimensions a couple of centimeters larger than required based on the measurements. This is how non-standard sizes are compensated.

The calculation of the window strip is simple. However, you need to consider the installation method. Usually they frame the side slopes and the top, and install the ebb below. The quantity is calculated as the total length of all slopes and the top of all windows. The value is increased, since the trimming of the corners on each side must be left 6 cm. If the flashing is not installed and a strip is attached instead, calculate the perimeter of the opening, add 6 cm for trimming and multiply by the number of windows.

Process description

Requirements for installing the bar

In order to do the installation yourself and not get a bad result, you should take into account a number of requirements :

Regardless of what material you choose for the main cladding (metal or vinyl siding), you should definitely create compensation gaps. The fact is that with temperature changes or simply at high temperatures, the slats will begin to expand. For this reason, the self-tapping screw should not be attached completely, even if you use a press washer.
The screw must be located at a right angle and strictly in the center of the hole for fastening. We recommend using galvanized screws to avoid rusting.
To install the plank correctly and accurately, work should begin when creating the frame base.
Parts must be trimmed at an angle so that the finished frame is of high quality. The connecting edges are also cut to prevent moisture penetration. All these steps need to be performed only with a suitable tool - metal scissors.
We recommend carrying out work when temperature indicators change upward. This way you will avoid deformation during the thaw.

Please note that the best solution would be to refuse to purchase the cheapest accessories or products whose manufacturer is unknown. We recommend that all products be made by one company.

Preparatory work and calculations

The finishing activities include the following stages of preparing the opening:

The window should be cleaned of everything unnecessary, check the slopes, and if there are cracks and crevices, be sure to seal them. Treat with protective compounds against fungi and mold. If you plan to replace old frames, do it in advance.
Now you need to build a common sheathing.
Read also: Is it bad or good to install a mirror on the entrance doors to a room?
After framing the window with the frame is completed, the future location of the low tide should be determined from the outside. To do this, use special additional parts. They will be placed at a distance from the facade to ensure uniform drainage. But you don’t have to use this part, but in this case, use a near-window siding strip, which will be installed on a slope, as a drainage system. For it, you will need to set up a beam in advance, which will be cut at the desired angle.
The outer part will also be framed with a wooden strip, which will become the basis for installing the finishing profile. To do this, it is better to use parts that are made of wood (preferably hardwood), which also have minimal thermal expansion. But keep in mind that such elements will need to be treated with antiseptic compounds.

When the preparation is completed, it will be necessary to calculate the material for the cladding. Measure the outer and inner perimeter of the opening and the width of the slope. To do this, it would be more advisable to use at least 3 points on each side to avoid any distortions due to differences. All parameters should be transferred to the window diagram. Select and buy the optimal profile option based on size or adjust an existing one to the required parameters.

Installation and processing

Prepare everything you need to attach the window strip. It is best to carry out marking and trimming on level ground.

So, here are the step-by-step installation instructions:

Fixation of the finishing profile. It should be placed in the inner perimeter of the opening so that it is adjacent to the frame. For reliability, beautiful appearance and to create a 90-degree joint, parts should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. This will be very easy to do if you use a grinder. Each fragment should be compared and attached.
Bottom adjustment. If you use a window profile as a casting part, then on the strip mark the width of this section of the opening, to which you need to add the width of the external platband, which should be multiplied by 2. So, if the main side is 80 cm, and the trim for decoration is on the “platband” side "8, then the trim will be 80+8+8=96 cm. After this, you need to trim along the bend on both sides. The cut should be 8 cm. Fold the inner trim along the edges, and then you will get a tongue, and then shorten it to 2-2.5 cm. The outer strip should be straight or slightly reduced in the part where there is a corner. If you do not trim all edges at 45 degrees, cracks will appear over time.
Top detail. He carries out similar work with her. The only difference is that the protruding area at both ends must be cut at 45 degrees.
Installation of elements. Everything is done in turn and in its place. To do this, insert the inner edge into the finishing profile, and fasten the outer edge with self-tapping screws.
Adjustment of vertical parts. To do this, take measurements. To ensure that, place the lower fragment at an angle, i.e. the parameters will be determined by two points.
Connection of vertical sections. This point should be especially thought through. Since the lower and upper elements have bends created for the outflow of water, the internal part of the rack should be trimmed only when taking into account the measured curvature.

Trimming. Trimming the outer plank is done a little differently - the upward edges should be straight (with the exception of small undercut corners), and the bottom side should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Docking . It is carried out in this way - a vertical stand is slipped under the corner of the top bar and inserted into the finishing profile so that the tongue is located inside. A similar procedure should be carried out from below, but the difference is that the corner of the stand of the window profile for siding should be overlapped, thereby covering the protruding part of the lower element.
Installation . All that remains is to attach the fragments to the screws.
It would not be superfluous to additionally treat the joints with sealant.

Width of slopes and window strip

Although the installation diagram is the same, the sequence and method of assembly may differ . It depends on the width of the slope and the cutting method.

Window installed at wall level

The window strip is not used, since there are no slopes in the opening. For framing take J-profile .

The step-by-step instructions are as follows.

The profile is cut to size, the side strips are immediately attached to the edge of the opening.
The top crossbar protrudes 6 cm on both sides. Before installation, cuts 2 cm long are made from the edge of the part and the fragments are folded down.
For greater aesthetics, it is recommended to cut the corner at 45 degrees, but this is not necessary.
The plank is fastened, and the bent fragments are inserted into the side profiles.

There is also no ebb in this design. Instead, an element of the required length is cut out from the J-profile and placed below.

Window opening with slopes up to 20 cm wide

Installation with trimming
Installation on an opening 20 cm deep is carried out in 2 ways - with and without trimming the corners . The second method is more common.

In an opening with slopes, horizontal strips are installed first - upper and lower, if there is no low tide. They are cut in a special way. The length of the top strip will be the width of the window plus 6 cm on each side. From the inside, the plank is trimmed by 6 cm on each side, and the outer, narrower part remains unchanged. Fragments of the wide part are not cut off, but rather bent.
The bottom bar is prepared in the same way.
The side ones are attached to the finishing strip, the bent tongues of the upper strip are folded and inserted, as it were, into the side profile. The lower tongues are bent upward and the same is inserted into the profile.

The pruning method is somewhat more complicated. In this case, mark the strips and cut off the part at an acute angle so that the elements fit tightly when assembled. This frame looks more beautiful, but requires more precise calculations and adjustments. In this case, the tongues of the upper and lower strips are also inserted inside the profile.

Window slopes more than 20 cm

If the window depth is more than 20 cm, it is impossible to install a window strip . Framing is done using other elements.

A finishing strip is installed along the perimeter of the frame.
An outer corner is fixed along the perimeter of the opening.
The slope is sewn up with pieces of lamellas. When installing, take into account the thermal gap.
The corners are covered with simple corners or double planks.

The ebb tide must be installed. The size of the ebb is 4 cm greater than the width of the slope: 3 cm for draining water from the wall, 1 cm for installation on a window frame.

Installation of metal flashing

The first stage when covering a window with additional elements is installing a drip lining. The near-window strip and J-profile can only be attached after the window sill is ready. Its installation is simple, and even a beginner can cope with this task if provided with instructions.

Sequence of actions when installing a window sill

Calculation of the required amount of planks

Step 1: Preparing the Metal Casting

Buy an ebb of suitable width. Measure the width of the window opening, which will also be the length of the ebb.
Window sills
Window sills
Using a tape measure, find the middle of the metal sheet and make a mark with a simple pencil. From this point, measure ½ the width of the window opening in both directions and place marks.
If the shape of the window sill provides for a widening towards the outside of the house, measure the distance between the siding panels located on both sides of the window block.
From the central point, marked on the ebb with a pencil, draw down a line perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the canvas. On both sides of it, measure ½ of the distance between the siding panels. Connect the upper points with the lower ones. The bevel of its side edges required for proper installation of the ebb is obtained.
Measure 6-8 cm on both sides of the resulting figure. This will be the length of the shelf - the side protrusion of the window sill.
Draw a shelf, the width of which should match the dimensions of the drip line (the lower bend of the ebb).
Draw out the side edges of the window sill, which, after its installation, will cover the lower ends of the window opening.
Using metal scissors, cut out the canvas according to the drawing. The side edges are folded up. If the flashing is installed without widening, bevel lines are not needed.

Step 2: Installation of low tide

Scheme of correct installation of low tide

DIY window sill, diagrams

Remove the protective film from the metal sheet. They try on the ebb: insert its upper part into the gap between the wall and the window block. In order for the ebb to fit into the gap as tightly as possible, take a flat wooden block and push the metal sheet with it.

Low tide fitting

If the result is satisfactory and the canvas does not require modification, proceed with installation: the gap between the wall and the window block is filled with polyurethane foam (it is recommended to use professional moisture- and frost-resistant foam). Carefully insert the ebb into the gap with foam.

Foaming ebb

We insert the ebb into the slot with foam

Fill the space under the ebb with polyurethane foam (the foam is applied in small portions, evenly distributing it over the entire surface of the slope). Gently press the ebb, check the horizontal position of its installation using a construction bubble level.

In order for the metal sheet to firmly adhere to the mounting foam, heavy objects are placed on the window sill so that the weight loads are evenly distributed over the entire ebb area.

Window sill installation

There is another option for installing a window sill, which involves fastening the metal sheet using self-tapping screws.

Installation of low tide with self-tapping screws

Diffusion tape

Prices for polyurethane sealant

Polyurethane sealant

Useful tips

With the general installation scheme for any type of siding, there is a difference between installing aluminum and plastic slats. This also applies to additional elements, since they are made from the same materials.

When attaching siding, the nature of the material and weather conditions are taken into account. The screws do not fit tightly to the surface of the profile or lamella. The gap size varies from 1 to 6 mm. When installed in hot weather, the slats acquire the largest possible volume. Therefore, the gap is left minimal. In the cold, siding has its smallest dimensions, which inevitably increase with warming. Accordingly, the gap is made maximum.
The fastener is always placed in the center of the oval hole . Plastic siding changes not only in volume, but also in length. In this case, the element can move along the fastening and not deform.
Installation is easier to carry out in the warm season , since it is easier to make a small gap than a large one. However, you should not sheathe the facade during rain or when it is of increased importance.
need to take galvanized fasteners , as they are resistant to corrosion and do not rust.

When decorating a facade in winter, the material is first left in a warm room for 12 hours so that the lamellas do not lose flexibility in the cold.

Installation requirements

In order for the near-window strip to fulfill its tasks and serve no less than the siding itself, all installation work must meet the following series of requirements:

When attaching both metal and vinyl elements, you should leave a small gap. This is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the material under the influence of temperature changes between seasons. So, the self-tapping screw should never be tightened to the limit - even if there is a press washer.
The hardware should be screwed into the center of the hole and perpendicular to the base.
It is recommended to use galvanized self-tapping screws as the main elements for fastening.
Installation of the strip should be carried out at the stage of installation of the frame structure.

The window strip was installed before the panels were installed Source prom.st

To form a high-quality frame and a tight fit of the connecting sides (to avoid the penetration of dampness), corner trimming and edge trimming should be performed, respectively.
It is recommended to carry out installation work at positive ambient temperatures. Otherwise, during operation there is a high probability of defects due to expansion of the material during a thaw.

Advice! To avoid problems of components not matching the main material during installation, and to avoid defects and damage during operation, it is necessary to purchase accessories from the manufacturer that produces the main product.

Step-by-step instruction

Fastening of siding lamellas is carried out according to the following scheme:

marking and cutting façade finishing panels according to length;
securing façade finishing panels to the sheathing frame;
attaching the first panel to the starting bar;
installation of subsequent facade finishing panels is similar to the first;
connecting all panel elements to each other using a special locking system until a characteristic click is heard;
fastening siding panels through perforated holes at the top edge;
fastening the top panel to the previous one by inserting its end sections into vertical finishing elements.