Repairing slopes after installing plastic windows is a necessary measure that helps to give completeness and additional protection to the surface. This process can be carried out using different materials that require different technological approaches. But the most important thing is that all work is carried out exclusively with your own hands.
A little about slopes
Slopes are divided into external and internal and represent a part of the wall that is directly adjacent to the window block at a certain angle.
It is necessary to approach the finishing of those areas that are located indoors most carefully. Why is it necessary to install slopes of plastic windows? There are a number of functions that they directly perform:
- Creating external attractiveness and aesthetic completeness. Indeed, it is difficult to imagine how new windows will look if the adjacent surface is poorly finished.
- An additional source of heat and sound insulation. This means that the slopes allow you to protect the room from the penetration of cold and noise pollution.
- Protection of assembly seams from external influences, as well as preventing windows from fogging up.
Finishing slopes is a procedure that is not only decorative in nature, but also a protective function.
Thus, sealing window openings is carried out not only to restore damaged areas, but also to create a whole complex of additional protection.
Average prices in the Russian Federation
There is no fixed cost for repairing or replacing window slopes. The final price depends on a number of factors, including :
- The width of the product, that is, the wider the material, the higher the cost.
- Window opening shape. Regular slopes will cost less than products of non-standard shape or size.
- Number of slopes requiring repair or replacement.
Average prices for work are presented below.
Cost of complex finishing of arched windows | ||||
Product depth | Up to 25 cm | 25-35 cm | 35-50 cm | Over 50 cm |
Cost per linear meter | 900 | 1200 | 1430 rub. | Negotiable |
Cost of finishing street parts | ||||
Product depth | Up to 25 cm | 25-35 cm | 35-50 cm | Over 50 cm |
Cost per linear meter | 900 rub. | 1260 | 1600 rub. | Negotiable |
Cost of installation of slopes:
Element width | Price l.m., rub. |
5-15 cm | 700 |
16-27 cm | 800 |
28-34 cm | 900 |
35-50 cm | 1100 |
51-60 cm | 1300 |
Various finishing options
Do-it-yourself finishing of plastic windows is carried out using different methods:
- Applying plaster with water-based paint.
- Installation of plastic panels. They harmonize well with the materials of the window blocks and are installed quickly.
- Use of gypsum boards. This technique is distinguished by the fact that it requires high-quality further finishing.
Plastering with dry mixtures
For the work, special plaster mixtures are used, which can be sold dry or already diluted. The plaster is diluted with water in the ratio indicated on the packaging so that the resulting mixture is not too liquid. Different manufacturers produce mixtures with different components in the composition. The plastering mixture should look like porridge.
For external areas where increased moisture concentration is inevitable, it is more rational to use a composition that contains a proportion of cement. Gypsum compositions are suitable for interior work: they are convenient to apply, they harden quickly, and the consumption does not exceed permissible standards.
Attention! Before you begin interior work, you need to purchase a special mixture in the store.
Plastering with tile adhesive
This material is suitable for exterior decoration. If high-quality tile adhesive is used for the work, such repairs will significantly increase the cost of materials compared to using classic cement with sand.
Finishing advantages:
- the surface does not absorb water droplets;
- does not deform even in severe frost;
- the material quickly sticks to any base;
- material consumption is as profitable as possible;
- high quality, durable material.
Attention! In order to complete all work quickly, it is important to use waterproof and frost-resistant tile mixtures for outdoor work. They need to be applied in a thin layer in several stages.
Finishing with plastic tape
PVC tape is often used when there are problems with waterproofing a room. In terms of characteristics and external features, it is more similar to the foam rubber that was previously glued to windows, but now updated.
- The plastic tape repels water and direct sunlight and is vapor-tight. The only drawback is its fragility: the tape loses its properties 6 years after installation.
- Installed in the free space between the wall and the profile to protect joints and seams foamed with mounting foam.
- If the entire seam is filled with foam, it needs to be cut out a few millimeters.
- Then rinse, wipe the joint, and let dry.
- A piece of a given length or slightly longer than required is cut from the tape.
- The tape should not be glued at an “angle”, otherwise it will be used irrationally.
- The tread liner is peeled off from the tape and glued to the area with maximum traction. It's best to use a profile.
Application of window sealant
Some materials are used even at the stage of installation of the window frame - polyurethane-based foam wedges the window and can fill all the wall voids that are hidden under the plaster layer or slopes made of PVC or metal. Some of them can be used several days before the onset of cold weather. The cracks are sealed at the window sill line and at the junction with the wall.
One material will not immediately solve the problem with noise and heat insulation. It is important to use several tubes in combination. They are suitable for indoor and outdoor use.
Photo report 2: installing plastic slopes with a starting profile
The installation of plastic slopes using this technology begins with the preparation of the window opening. We cut off the foam evenly, remove everything that does not adhere well, clean off the dust, and if necessary, go over the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.
Preparing the window opening
A wooden block is attached along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost fit the frame. One side of the block must be worked with a plane, making an inclination. The angle of inclination of this face is equal to the installation angle of the slope. You can saw it off, but it’s more difficult to make it straight unless you have a circular saw with an adjustable angle.
We make a slope on one of the faces of the block
We screw the treated block to the walls around the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the wall material. If the wall is brick, you can try using self-tapping screws; in a concrete wall, you need to install dowels.
You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the block, and fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with staples from a construction stapler; if you don’t have one, you can use small nails or self-tapping screws with flat heads.
We attach the starting profile
When choosing a starting profile, choose a dense one. It’s more expensive, but you only need three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold the plastic well, a soft one will bend and the appearance will be ugly. Another point - when installing the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all or they are minimal.
At the top, when joining vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them exactly at an angle of 45°. If there are small gaps, they can be sealed with acrylic.
Installed starting profile
Using this technology, it is more convenient to start installing reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed starting profile. It is also better to take them from expensive and dense ones, with a thick layer of plastic. If you install cheap ones (ceiling), then the front wall is thin, and in bright light the jumpers will be visible. In addition, such plastic can be pressed even with your finger.
We insert a plastic panel into the profile
The width of the plastic panel should be larger than the slope. If the width of one is not enough, two are joined. But then at the junction you will need an additional vertical strip to which the first strip will be attached.
The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the line of the opening. After removing, cut along the marked line.
Cut to size
We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make this happen, we start from the far bottom corner - draw from bottom to top near the nailed bar. By the time we reached the top, the foam below had expanded a little. Draw a line with foam again, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the paths thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should stand. Align and check. Secure to the wall with masking tape. The second part and then the upper part are installed in the same way. It can also be cut out using a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match using sandpaper.
Installed plastic window slopes
Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued onto liquid nails. The main task is to cut exactly in the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue to both shelves of the corner, press it, moving your hand along it, hold it for a couple of minutes. This is how they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, before the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.
Installed corners along the perimeter of the slope
After a day, we remove the tape, the plastic slopes are ready.
This is what a window with installed plastic slopes looks like
If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it with it.
For an option for installing slopes with a starting profile screwed to the window frame, see this video.
Video version of installing plastic slopes without a starting profile.
And another way in this video
Here pay attention to the finishing of the panel joints. They were made using a special profile
Could be so.
What material to choose for sealing slopes
Craftsmen recommend using sandwich panels as slopes. They can be found at any building materials store. Their advantages are appreciated by many window owners:
- They are respectable, similar to classic plastic windows.
- Thanks to the internal insulating ball, the material provides good sound and heat insulation.
In second place in popularity is a simple plaster mixture. This material is distinguished by its optimal heat retention properties, contributes to additional aesthetics, is durable and reliable in use.
Internal slope
When all the work outside is completed, the craftsmen move into the room and carry out similar work inside. Internal slopes perform the same function as external ones, but carry a higher decorative load, because without them the wall will look untidy. Therefore, all work is carried out carefully. If the choice of cladding for external finishing should be based on indicators of resistance to moisture, then this rule does not work when finishing internal slopes. Here materials that are contraindicated for the street can be used - for example, drywall.
External slope
To work you will need:
- foam layers (5 and 10 cm wide);
- reinforcing mesh;
- PVC corners with reinforcing elements;
- putty;
- dowels, umbrellas;
- waterproof paint;
- drill, screwdriver;
- garden knife.
First, the master must remove the old slopes, if any, freeing the surface around the glass unit by at least 10 cm in width.
Consequences of lack of timely repairs
It is very important to carry out repair work or replace a failed structure in a timely manner. If this is not done, the consequences may vary:
- The plates will begin to twist over time, which will damage the frame.
- When the slopes are deformed, the assembly seam becomes loose, causing the structure to lose its thermal insulation qualities. The structure begins to leak moisture, which leads to mold.
- Drafts will appear, which will lead to heat loss in the room.
- If the slope is severely damaged, it may fall off.
Types of materials for finishing slopes
Often plasterboard sheets and plastic panels are used to finish slopes. These materials are attached to a metal or special plastic profile. In some cases, slopes are finished with plaster and putty mixtures.
Drywall slopes
The choice of finishing slopes with plasterboard is due to the ease of installation and the possibility of using insulation with it. Installing drywall does not require special skills and does not create much pollution in the room during operation.
For finishing slopes, only moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets are used. This material can withstand high humidity well and will not be subject to destruction for a long time. Installed plasterboard panels are covered with several layers of primer and finishing putty. This is necessary to seal small irregularities, side cuts, and also protect the surface of the sheets from mechanical damage.
Slopes made of plastic panels
Window slopes are often finished with plastic panels. These can be ordinary panels for walls and ceilings or sandwich panels, consisting of two layers of plastic and foam insulation placed between them. The use of sandwich panels facilitates installation, since it does not require additional fittings and does not require the use of insulation.
DIY window slopes: step-by-step instructions
Owners of apartments or houses who have installed new windows quite rightly want to tidy up the surfaces around them. Very often this simply needs to be done because when installing new window systems, the old slopes are severely damaged and cannot be “restored”, or they come close to the window sash canopies, and this makes it difficult to open. In addition, slopes are finished in order to enhance the sound and heat insulation of window openings by covering the mounting foam that fills the gaps between the wall and the window block when installing it. Very often, for this purpose, a layer of insulation is laid between the finishing material and the wall.
DIY window slopes
Slopes on windows with your own hands can be made neat and functional in several ways and using various finishing, insulating or combined materials that combine both qualities. To figure out which option will be easier to install and more suitable for a particular case, you need to consider the most popular of them.
What materials are most often used for installing slopes?
There are three most commonly used methods of giving slopes an aesthetic appearance, each of them is good in its own way and can be used in combination with insulating material. So, PVC panels can be installed on window slopes, plasterboard can be glued or fixed to the sheathing, or the surface can be leveled with a plaster and putty mixture.
Slopes made of PVC panels
For finishing using this technology, plastic lining and auxiliary fittings are used. They help to hide the edges of the panels at the junctions of horizontal and vertical surfaces, as well as at the lines where they join the window frame and at the outer corners of the slopes.
Slopes made of plastic panels look very nice
In addition to the usual PVC lining, sandwich panels specially manufactured for this purpose are used for cladding, which consist of layers of plastic and foamed polystyrene. This material will facilitate installation, since you will not have to separately adjust and install the insulating material. In addition, this approach also often allows you to do without some elements of fittings.
Sandwich panels perform both decorative and insulating functions
Like regular lining, sandwich panels are great for decorating slopes around plastic windows, especially since, if desired, you can choose the desired PVC color that will be in full harmony with the shade of the window frame.
It is quite possible to install plastic slopes yourself, without resorting to the help of craftsmen - you just need to study the installation instructions and scrupulously follow them during the work.
Plastered slopes
This finishing method can be called traditional. High-quality surfaces will last a long time without losing their neat appearance. However, it should be noted that without a layer of insulating material, plaster cannot become an effective barrier to the cold coming from the window opening. The disadvantages of this method include the labor intensity and duration of arrangement, since the solution is applied in several layers, each of which must dry well. In addition, plastering work requires certain experience in its implementation, and without it, it is quite possible to ruin the surface, wasting time and money.
The old proven method of plastering slopes does not lose its relevance
The process of finishing slopes with plaster mixtures is quite “dirty”, and since it takes a lot of time (sometimes it takes from one and a half to two weeks), the room where the work is being carried out will need to be cleaned daily or not used at all.
Prices for popular types of plaster
Plaster
Plasterboard slopes
Often, apartment and house owners prefer to decorate window slopes with plasterboard. This material is easy to install, it can be used together with insulation, the sheathing is quite durable and perfectly levels surfaces. In essence, drywall is dry plaster, but its installation is much faster than the “wet” version. This method does not cause large pollution in the room during work and does not require much experience to perform it. It is enough to follow the already tested instructions to carry out the finishing carefully and correctly.
Drywall slopes are very convenient for installation work.
Today, several types of drywall are produced, and one of them (GKLV, greenish in color) can withstand high humidity - it should be given preference for the design of slopes. Difficulties during the installation process can be caused not by the installation of the material itself, but by its subsequent finishing for applying a decorative coating - this is a primer and putty. Without these works, “dry plaster” can quickly become unusable, since it has a rather fragile structural structure and can be used for a long time only when covering the cuts and finishing the surfaces.
Do you want to make window slopes from plasterboard?
The installation process is described in detail in the article on our portal “ Do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes ”, which can be easily accessed by following the link. There, in the publication, questions about the varieties and performance qualities of this material are well covered.
Tools and materials for installing slopes
To work on putting the slopes in order, depending on the chosen option, various materials will be required. The list of tools varies slightly - they will be needed not only for installation work, but also for preparatory activities.
Tools for work
To install any of the selected materials, construction tools are required.
Tools required for installation of slopes
A. If plastering work is ahead, then you need to prepare:
- Spatulas for applying and leveling solutions.
- Plaster Trowel or Trowel – These are also used to apply plaster or putty mortar to the wall.
- Corner aligner - it will help you quickly and accurately correct the internal and external corners, which always cause the most difficulty in aligning.
- Grater - used for leveling and smoothing plastered or puttied surfaces.
- Falcon - it is convenient to use for bringing the solution to the surfaces to be finished during work.
- Plaster trowel – this professional tool is designed for applying and leveling mixtures.
- An electric drill with a mixer attachment is required for mixing solutions.
- Mixing container.
- A metal profile or wooden strip is necessary to create guides.
B. To install PVC panels, you need to have on hand:
- Sharp construction knife.
- Angle, ruler and tape measure for measuring and adjusting panel blanks.
- A construction syringe for working with sealant or a gun for polyurethane foam.
B. Some tools are needed to install any of the materials listed above:
- Wide brush for applying primer.
- A building level that will help control the alignment of surfaces ideally in vertical and horizontal planes.
- Metal scissors for cutting reinforcing corners or profiles.
Separately, it is necessary to say about the tools intended for preliminary preparation of slope surfaces:
A hatchet or a special chisel attachment for a hammer drill - these tools will be required in cases where the slopes are made carelessly or are located in such a way that they do not allow the window sash to be opened completely, and they will simply have to be beaten off.
A construction hairdryer - if you can limit yourself to removing the old paint coating.
A spatula is required if you only need to clean the surface of the slopes from old plaster, paint or wallpaper.
Necessary materials
A. If plastic slopes are chosen for installation, the following materials will need to be purchased:
- Plastic panels (or lining), the number of which is calculated according to the parameters of the slope. The panels will be needed for installation on the sides and ceiling of the window opening, which means that in order to find out the exact amount of material, you need to measure the height, width of the slopes and thickness of the walls. Typically panels are purchased with a 10÷15% reserve.
- Starting plastic rail, U-shaped.
Start profile
- A rail having an F-shape (F-profile).
F-profile
- Profiles for internal corners installed at panel joints.
Slats for forming an internal corner
- Thermal insulation material - polystyrene foam or mineral wool of the required thickness and size. If already insulated sandwich panels are used, then you can do without additional thermal insulation.
- Wooden or plywood slats with a thickness of 100 ÷ 120 mm.
- Self-tapping screws of the required length.
- White silicone for sealing gaps between panels.
- Polyurethane foam - it is better to use “professional” foam in tubes, rather than cheap ones in aerosol cans..
- Staples.
- Primer composition.
To install PVC sandwich panels, you will need the same materials, except for the U-shaped and corner strips. An F-shaped strip may be required to decorate the outer corner, but you can do without it by using a putty mixture to decorate it. Which corner finishing option to choose depends entirely on the preferences of the homeowner.
B. To finish slopes with plaster, the following materials will be required:
- Putty-plaster mixture.
Dry building mixture for filling and plastering work
- Finishing putty.
Putty for finishing slopes
- Primer antifungal composition.
It is very important to carry out antifungal treatment of slope surfaces
- Perforated masking profile for strengthening external corners.
Perforated profile makes it easier to remove corners
- Finishing decorative material: water-based paint, wallpaper or even ceramic tiles - according to the preference of the owners.
Prices for popular types of antiseptics
Antiseptics
Preparation of slope surfaces
After everything you need has been purchased and prepared, you can proceed to preparing surfaces for installing finishing materials. This process can be carried out in different ways.
- If the window is installed in such a way that there is enough space on the slopes around it to install finishing with insulation, then it is often enough just to remove the old paint, whitewash or wallpaper from these surfaces.
Whitewash or wallpaper from the walls around the window can be easily removed if you first soak them by soaking them several times with water.
Removing old paint using a spatula and a hair dryer
Oil-based or organic-based paint is usually removed with a spatula by heating the surface with a hair dryer.
Cleaned slopes must be primed with an antiseptic primer to avoid the appearance of mold stains under the finishing, which can not only ruin the walls and finishing, but also introduce an unpleasant odor and a very unhealthy atmosphere into the living quarters. The fact is that the fungus can be dangerous to the health of residents, so this stage of work should not be neglected.
Mandatory priming of the base surface of the slopes
The primer is most often applied in several layers, each time after the previous one has completely dried. Not only smooth surfaces are processed, but also hard-to-reach corners - for this you need to use a narrow brush.
- Another, more complex preparation option includes the complete dismantling of the plaster layer applied to the slopes.
Dismantling old slope finishing
This method is used in cases where there is a very small distance left between the window frame and the slope, which does not allow the window to be fully opened. Another situation where this drastic measure cannot be avoided is the impossibility of installing slope insulation or even ordinary plastic panels.
To quickly remove a layer of plaster, a hammer drill with a special attachment called a chisel-scapula is used. It lifts well all the layers applied to the wall, and they are removed in fairly large pieces.
Next, you need to sweep away dust and particles of wall and plaster from the cleaned slopes - this process is carried out using a soft brush or wide brush. Well, after this the wall must be primed with the same antifungal compound.
Slope finishing
To make it easy to install a particular material on slopes, it is necessary to consider each option step by step.
Finishing work begins after the primer applied to the wall is well absorbed and completely dry.
Finishing slopes with plaster without insulation
The process of plastering surfaces around the window is as follows:
Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
The first step is to install guides made of a metal profile or wooden slats around the window niche. It should be noted that a metal guide is preferable, as it has lower adhesion than wood - it will be easier to remove. The guides are aligned to the building level and secured to the wall using dowels. The profile should protrude beyond the corner of the window opening to the thickness of the future plaster layer. | |
Another guide from a perforated corner is placed near the window frame. It is oriented towards the profile installed around the opening, since the sketched plaster will be aligned along the plane specified by these two guides. The corner is installed on gypsum-based putty, as it dries quite quickly. | |
The next step is to pour the plaster mixture onto the wall. Sometimes it is replaced with ordinary cement mortar, which is mixed from cement and well-sifted sand, that is, in no case should it be interspersed with small pebbles. The task of this stage is to make the outer corner smooth and create the necessary plaster layer. | |
The same work is carried out on the ceiling part of the slope. | |
After the mortar is thrown onto the slope, it needs to be leveled using a rule, a trowel or a level lath. This layer is leveled, so to speak, roughly, the main thing is that the solution fills all the voids and the edge of the slope, approximately forming an even angle. Leveling should be carried out after the solution has set. The process is carried out from below, from the window sill. The rule is installed on the guides and carefully rises up, leveling the scattered solution, the excess of which is immediately removed. Having completed this work, the slopes are left to dry completely. | |
Next, the external guides are removed from the dried slopes, and perforated painting corners are installed on the formed corners using gypsum putty, which will reliably strengthen the edges of the slopes. Having installed them along the entire height and width of the opening, you need to wait until the gypsum composition dries completely - this process will take about half an hour. | |
When the putty has dried and the corner is securely attached to the wall and slope, another layer of plaster is applied to their surface, which should be the same height as the installed painting corner. It is leveled in the same way, starting from the window sill, using a rule that goes up to the ceiling plane. From the outside, the edge of the corner is compared with the wall with a solution that is applied with a spatula. Internal corners are formed with a corner spatula, which grasps two planes and the joint between them at once. The leveled slopes are left until completely dry and then primed. | |
The last layer consists of finishing putty, and is applied with a thickness of no more than 1-1.5 mm. | |
The work is carried out with a wide spatula, with light pressure on it, movements from the window frame towards the room. If marks from the edges of the tool remain on the surface, they must be carefully smoothed out. | |
The last stage is the final smoothing of the surface using grout. The process is carried out in a circular motion counterclockwise. After such sanding, before painting, it is recommended to prime the slopes again. The primer will not allow the paint to be absorbed into the putty, so the painting will be even. |
For clarity, here is a detailed video instruction on plastering window slopes.
Video: how to properly plaster window slopes
Finishing slopes with plaster with insulation
In this finishing option, some stages are similar to the first method, but it also has its own characteristics, so it is worth considering separately.
Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
The insulation is mounted on a primed, flat surface. Therefore, if, after chipping the old plaster, chips and potholes are found, they will need to be leveled with a putty or plaster mixture using a wide spatula. After the repair layer and primer have dried, they proceed to gluing polystyrene foam panels, which should have a thickness of no more than 15 mm. | |
The material is fixed to mounting foam, which is best applied directly to the insulation, or to mounting adhesive like “liquid nails.” The part coated with strips of glue is pressed tightly against the slopes. The foam is installed first on the side walls, and then on the ceiling part of the slopes. If necessary, the joints between the foam sheets are additionally filled with foam. | |
If the slopes are wide enough, then the insulating panels are additionally fixed to the wall using “fungi” fasteners. To do this, using a hammer drill, holes are drilled in the wall directly through polystyrene foam, into which dowels called “fungi” are inserted. Then special expansion nails are installed and driven into them. Using this fastening, you need to take into account the thickness of the insulation, since the fungus should be recessed into the wall by 50 ÷ 60 mm, and its cap should be level with the surface of the foam or be slightly recessed into it, by 1 - 1.5 mm. | |
Having glued the foam, which will level the surfaces and corners, we proceed to reinforcing its surface - only in this case will the finish last a long time. Corners with reinforcing fiberglass mesh are mounted on the outer corners using glue or gypsum-based putty. The glue is applied with a spatula to the edge of the slope, then the corner is pressed onto it, and the excess adhesive that protrudes through the holes is immediately removed. | |
On the outside, the corner is also glued with glue or putty. You can also use cement-based glue, but if you need the surface to be treated to dry quickly, it is recommended to use a gypsum composition. The mesh is pressed into the applied composition using a spatula, and its excess is leveled or removed. | |
Next, the mesh is attached to all foam surfaces. It can be glued to an already applied thin layer of putty or attached to buttons, and the solution can then be applied on top of the mesh, leveling it. This layer will become a preparatory layer for the finishing putty, which is applied to the dried surface. The final leveling layer and other work are performed in the same way as in the first option. |
Video: how to level plastered slopes with putty
Find out several affordable ways to finish window slopes from the outside from our new article.
Installation of plastic slopes
PVC panels can be divided into two types - regular and sandwich panels, which have insulation in their multilayer structure. Their installation is most often identical and is carried out using fittings, however, sandwich panels can sometimes be joined using sealant, and glued to the walls using polyurethane foam or “liquid nails”.
Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
Finishing slopes with plastic panels begins with fixing a wooden strip around the perimeter inside the window opening, on the slopes, excluding the window sill. This element will strengthen the corner and allow you to easily install fitting profiles on it. If the window opening is wider than the frames being installed, then a wooden beam can also be fixed between the frame and the slope. It is usually installed during foaming of the gaps between the wall and the frame during the installation of the window system itself. In this case, the thickness of the slats fixed along the outer edge is selected depending on the cross-sectional size of the first beam. | |
Next, the installation location of the starting profile is determined. If a wooden beam is installed between the frame and the wall, then the profile is pressed against the frame and secured with a stapler and brackets to the wooden beam. This is the operation shown in the photo. | |
If the beam was not installed, then the profile is attached directly to the frame, along a line determined using a building level, resting on an external rail. The profile is fixed on the side and top edges of the frame. At the junction of the walls and ceiling of the slope, an angular profile is installed, in which there are two gaps for installing plastic panels in them. The fixed starting and corner profiles are clearly visible in the photo. | |
The next step is to attach an F-shaped profile along the outer side of the slopes, reaching the surface of the wall, which will serve not only as a panel holder, but also as a platband. The profile is fixed to a wooden strip installed along the outer edge of the slopes. | |
At the corners, the F-profile is cut at an angle of 45 degrees and connected at a right angle. In order for the cut to be perfect and the profile not to be damaged, it is necessary to use a miter box when cutting blanks. | |
Next, measurements are taken from the slopes, and parts of the required size are cut out of plastic panels. After this, they are installed in the grooves of the profile - to do this, they can be bent a little. | |
In some cases, after bending the profile shelves, their edges “do not want” to completely return to their original place, and gaps form. To restore them to their original condition, you can apply silicone sealant in these places, and then temporarily fix the assembly with masking tape, which is glued to the surface of the plastic panel. | |
Another option for installing conventional PVC panels on slopes can be a method using insulation, which is laid between the slope wall and the finishing material. Installation is carried out in the same way as described above, but in this case a certain space is left for the insulation. 1 - attaching the starting U-shaped rail to the window frame or wooden beam; 2 - installation of a wooden batten on the outer edge of the slope; 3 - attaching the J-profile to a wooden batten - this profile will serve to secure the platband at the completion of the work; 4 - installation of insulating material between the wall and the PVC panel; 5 — installation of a regular or sandwich panel in the starting profile; 6 - installation of the CL profile, which snaps onto the protruding part of the J profile. Additionally, it can be glued to the wall and panel using white silicone or sealant. It should be noted that if sandwich panels are used in this option, then instead of insulating material, polyurethane foam can be used to fill the cavities between the finishing and the wall. |
Video: installation of plastic window slopes
Sandwich panels can be installed on the surface of slopes in another way without the use of fitting profiles, but using polyurethane foam, sealant or liquid nails. The gaps between the planes, in this case, are sealed with white silicone.
Installing sandwich panels directly on slope walls is quite simple, but an important condition for it is a more or less flat surface, so before installing the finishing material, it needs to be leveled and dried.
Further, the work is carried out as follows:
- Dimensions are taken from the slopes and sandwich panels are cut along them.
Cutting a plastic sandwich panel using a jigsaw
- Then one of the selected adhesives is applied to them, and the panel is pressed against the surface of the slope.
If polyurethane foam is used for installation, the ceiling panel of the window opening is glued first.
The ceiling plane is sprayed with water from a spray bottle - this will increase the adhesion of the surfaces.
Then the foam is applied along the perimeter of the glued part in a thin strip, since it tends to expand quite strongly, and with a large amount of it, the foam can squeeze the finishing material from the wall.
- Having pressed the material to the surface, you need to hold it for 5 ÷ 7 minutes, and then install supports and leave until it dries completely and the foam expands. The support can be made from a planed board, which is pressed against the panel, which is supported with bars, placing them on the window sill.
- After this, the side panels of the slopes are mounted in the same way.
Installing a side sandwich panel
- Then, if there are unfilled gaps between the slope wall and the finishing, they are additionally foamed. When the foam dries and expands, its protruding excess is cut off with a sharp stationery knife.
All panels are installed on polyurethane foam
- Next, the joints between the wall and the finishing material should be closed with a special profile, which is called a platband. It is made in the form of a corner and can have different widths, which allows them to cover the unsightliness of a joint even of large width. The casing is glued to the “liquid nails” and held in place while they dry using masking tape.
- If for some reason small gaps have formed between the panels, they are carefully filled with white silicone, which after drying will be almost invisible.
The installation is completed by the installation of platbands.
It should be noted that there are other ways of performing work on finishing slopes, which are somewhat different from those described above, but the principle of their implementation is unchanged.
— First, you need to decide in advance on the choice of material, whether it will be insulated initially or this process will be carried out during the installation process.
— Secondly, choose the material for insulation and for fixing all the parts.
— Third, decide which installation method will be preferable: with or without the use of fitting profiles.
Having decided on all the criteria, you can take measurements and purchase everything you need for work.
Making slopes on windows yourself is not so difficult if you approach this process with extreme care, take accurate measurements, and select all the necessary components correctly.
Is it possible to install a plastic window with double-glazed windows yourself?
Installation of slopes is the final stage of installing a window system. In order for the windows to be truly insulated according to all the rules, it is necessary to take into account many nuances even during the installation of the frames.
How to properly install a plastic window is in the corresponding publication on our portal.
Repair of window slopes: features of plastic products
During operation, the window opening is periodically exposed to various influences. It is as a result of such influences that the need arises to repair the slopes of plastic windows with your own hands. Fortunately, this task is not difficult and almost anyone can cope with it.
Below we will tell you what to do in the most common situations.
It is quite possible to restore a damaged slope
Possible problems
The finished window opening should look beautiful and retain heat well in the room. In principle, this is where its functions end. However, over time, the performance properties of the finish decrease, and sooner or later certain problems arise.
What could happen?
- The first and most common malfunction is mechanical damage to the slope surfaces. They can be very different, ranging from minor scratches to through holes.
- Next on the list are more extensive damage associated with deformation of drywall or plastic. In this case, the surface of the opening swells, and sometimes one edge of the sheathing panel even comes out of its fasteners.
- A separate group of problems is mold contamination of the slope. It is very unpleasant because it indicates problems with removing moisture from the assembly seam.
All these problems can and must be fought. Instructions for troubleshooting problems that arise are given below.
Recovery technology
Mechanical damage
Mechanical damage includes scratches, dents and cracks.
The repair method depends on the material from which the finish was made:
- Superficial damage to plastic slopes can be easily removed using special compounds. One of the best remedies is a gel called Cosmofen. Being, in fact, a glue for PVC, it perfectly removes microscopic scratches, and therefore is used by all sloping craftsmen.
- For drywall and plaster, chips of the putty layer are relevant. They are removed with the same material that was used to level the slope, however, after completion of the work, the painting will need to be done again.
Small dents can be filled with putty
To repair large dents on a plaster slope, it is best to use special plaster mixtures such as Rotband:
- We embroider the crack or depression from which a piece of finishing has fallen out so that there are no weakly fixed areas left along the edges.
- We fill the hole with plaster and level its surface.
- We putty the slope again and paint it using a roller or spray.
We repair holes in plasterboard sheathing as follows:
- We cut out a section of gypsum board along the perimeter of the hole so that we get a hole with smooth edges.
- We cut out a patch of the appropriate shape and size from a sheet of gypsum board.
- We glue the patch into the slope, then putty and paint the surface.
As for plastic panels, they will have to be replaced if damaged. This is one of the disadvantages of this finishing technology, since the price of PVC or sandwich is very significant.
Panel deformation
An equally common problem is the deformation of part of the sheathing due to changes in the dimensions of the opening (shrinkage) or an increase in humidity in the room. (See also the article How to install a plastic window sill: features.)
In this situation, the algorithm of actions will be as follows:
- Carefully make a cut along the perimeter of the deformed panel using a painting knife. This will allow us to maintain the finish on the remaining parts of the slope.
- We dismantle the damaged part as carefully as possible.
- If the reason for the deformation is a change in the dimensions of the opening, then we simply reduce the dimensions of the part by cutting it on one side. If the panel itself has become unusable (the plastic has heated up and bent, the drywall has swollen), we replace the element with a new one. The deformed panel must be replaced with a new one
- We glue the plasterboard strip with special glue. We insert the panel made of polyvinyl chloride or sandwich into place of the removed one, snapping it onto special starting profiles.
Please note! When replacing, you should check the safety and condition of the thermal insulation material, and also check the space behind the casing for the presence of condensation.
- Once the panel is returned to its place and secured, we begin restoring the finish.
Moisture and mold
In houses made of brick, monolithic reinforced concrete or concrete blocks, slopes may freeze in winter. The dense material has a fairly high thermal conductivity, and cold bridges are formed in the wall in the area of the window openings, directed towards bypassing the window frame. When internal slopes cool to the dew point temperature, condensation falls on them. As a result, the plaster (or drywall) becomes damp, and over time the paint turns black from mold. Dealing with freezing of slopes is not easy. It is best to install new windows with wide frames, but this is associated with large financial costs. Therefore, they usually locally insulate the wall on the room side. For this purpose, insulation materials made of dense foamed plastics with closed cells (polypropylene foam, polystyrene foam, etc.), 10–30 mm thick, or special two-layer panels made of porous and hard plastic are suitable.
How to remove parts indoors and outdoors?
For dismantling you may need:
- screwdriver;
- chisel;
- hammer;
- perforator;
- screwdriver;
- individual protection means;
- hexagons;
- construction knife.
The work required to dismantle the slopes depends on what it was made of. For sandwich panels, this process will take the least time; it requires:
- carefully trim the layer of sealant that connects the frame and the plate;
- remove decorative or protective corners from the opening;
- unscrew all fasteners, since panels are most often mounted with self-tapping screws;
- if the plate was attached to the mounting foam, then the latter must be carefully trimmed with a knife;
- pull the sandwich panel out of the mounting groove;
- clean all joints and, if necessary, replace the insulation under the plate.
If you use plasterboard panels for slopes, the process is very similar, but first you will need to carefully remove the paint layer to find the attachment points.
It is recommended to remove double-glazed windows (if possible) to dismantle the painting material or putty layer.
If plaster was used, the work order is as follows:
- remove or protect the glass unit;
- using a hammer drill, chisel and hammer, remove the finishing layer down to the brick (or other material from which the opening is made);
- When working, it is recommended to use a respirator, goggles and gloves, since a layer of dust during the destruction of the plaster can harm the body.
When carrying out work outside the premises, the use of high-altitude equipment or the involvement of specialists may be required, since independent dismantling can be hazardous to health. It is not uncommon for slopes to be insulated from the outside, and for this purpose polymer blocks, for example, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, are used. To dismantle them you will need:
- carefully remove the top layer of plaster so as not to damage the frame;
- you need to beat off the protective layer until the self-tapping screws (if they were used during installation) appear on the polymer plates;
- Unscrew the screws using a screwdriver or screwdriver;
- trim the caps on the mushroom-shaped dowels with a knife;
- dismantle polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam piece by piece, since it is usually glued to a special adhesive, which, after hardening, becomes strong, like plaster;
- After the polymer is cut, remove the layer of glue until the material from which the walls are made appears.
Surface preparation
Before sealing the surface, it must be prepared for work. The process consists of several stages:
- All protruding or collapsing areas are knocked down. To do this, a hammer and chisel are used; they can do the work precisely without damaging adjacent areas.
Cleaning window slopes from unnecessary areasOn a note! Considering that the work involves the collapse of some pieces of cement or brick, it is advisable to prevent damage to the window and sill. To do this, they are covered with corrugated cardboard.
- A construction knife is used to cut off excess foam used to seal the windows. The main thing is to wait until it has completely gained volume and dries. This is done quite simply: use a blade to pierce the protruding part of the foam from above (parallel to the window) and, pressing slightly, make a single downward movement. If necessary, cut through the part that is glued to the wall.
Removing excess polyurethane foamAdvice! There is a film sticker on the plastic frame; it is removed only after all work has been completed.
- The surface is thoroughly cleaned from dust and dirt. It often happens that an old brick wall has loose bricks. They need to be placed on the solution and allowed to adhere.
If you plan to plaster the slopes, the area is first coated with a layer of primer. In other cases, it is advisable to use antiseptics.
Applying primer to window slopes
Plastering
Sealing slopes with plaster is the cheapest existing option. To work, you will need a dry finishing mixture (gypsum, alabaster), a small set of tools (bucket, spatulas, roller) and water-based paint.
This method has several disadvantages. Firstly, you will have to put in enough effort to get a flat surface. If you have little experience, this may require a lot of time, since you will need to carefully study the plastering technology and watch a lot of videos. Secondly, cracks may appear, which occurs for various reasons.
The technology for applying plaster is as follows:
- The dry mixture is diluted in the required amount of water. It must be taken into account that the work must be completed quickly enough so that the solution does not lose its properties.
- The composition is collected with a spatula and transferred to the surface. If the area has significant potholes, then they should be covered first. The fact is that a thick layer of plaster will not adhere well and will also cause cracking of the material.
- To achieve perfect evenness, use beacons or even wooden blocks.
- Check the sealed area for level.
Plastering window slopes
Advice! You can use a little trick that will help keep the surface unharmed. To do this, use a narrow spatula. The purpose of the event is to create a small depression between the window frame and the applied layer. The instrument is placed at an angle and quickly moved from top to bottom.
This option is suitable when the slopes on the windows have minimal damage. That is, it is only necessary to restore the damaged areas and, after removing the old paint, cover the surface with a new composition. Please note that painting is carried out after preliminary priming.
Painting of plastered slopes is carried out only after applying the primer twice and allowing it to dry completely.
Difficulties and errors during dismantling
During dismantling, the following difficulties and errors may occur:
- If the window is located at a height greater than the second floor, then it is recommended to use the services of specialists to dismantle the slopes, since during the work there is a high probability of damaging the glass, frame or opening, as well as getting injured.
- When dismantling old slopes (especially those made of plaster), the corners of the opening may crumble, which is why you will have to use metal corners and concrete mixture to restore them.
- If you do not remove the glass unit, and also do not protect the frame with any external finishing (for example, paper or foam rubber), then there is a high probability of scratching or damaging these window parts.
- When refinishing, it is very easy to stain the window and frame with plaster or paint, which are then difficult to clean.
- If the old thermal insulation is damaged or worn out, it must be replaced, since it will make the slope poorly insulate the rooms from the cold, and the windows may also begin to become covered with condensation. This can lead to increased heating costs, deterioration of the microclimate or the appearance of mold (sometimes fungus).
When adding sand to a solution of plaster or concrete, you should sift it carefully, since lumps, roots and debris can reduce the strength of the material after drying, as well as worsen the appearance if they stick out from the slope.- Each layer of plaster, paint or concrete mixture must be applied to a material that has already completely dried in order to improve adhesion (stick better) and reduce the likelihood of material delamination.
Application of plasterboard sheets
How to seal slopes using gypsum boards? There are several methods, but the most acceptable is the one that involves installation on putty. The process is:
- The work area is well prepared. No voids should be allowed. The polyurethane foam is cut off in advance.
- Measure the surface. It is necessary to obtain the dimensions for height and width. Considering that the slopes consist of three parts, each is measured individually. Although it would be much better to install the top part, and then, taking into account the new dimensions, measure the side sections.
- The measurements are transferred to the drywall. The necessary fragments are cut out.
- Putty is applied to their reverse side. They do this pointwise, capturing the edges and center of the element.
- The fragment is pressed to the surface and a support is placed. In a day, adhesion should occur.
- Perforated corners are applied and a layer of putty is applied. If required, other decorative material (tiles, stone, wallpaper) is laid.
Slopes made of plasterboard are excellent when the walls are lined with gypsum plasterboard. In this case, they can be included in part of the frame being built.
When might restoration or replacement be required?
Replacement of the structure may be necessary in cases where:
- The slopes are deformed. This can happen due to shrinkage of the building or when using low-quality material.
- The design allows moisture to pass through. In this case, the windows begin to fog up, and over time, fungus appears.
- Insulation of the window opening is required.
- Old parts have become unusable if chips or even holes appear on them.
- It is necessary to replace one type of slopes with another.
One of the most common problems with slopes is the appearance of cracks. They can be either minor, which can be carefully repaired, or global, when a part needs to be replaced.
There can be several reasons for the formation of cracks:
- Shrinkage of the building .
The problem is relevant both for new houses and for old multi-storey buildings. Due to subsidence of the foundation, the slope may crack, which will require minor repair work to be carried out periodically. - Vibrations .
If the house is located near the roadway, you can often feel vibrations and hear the rattling of glass. Due to periodic vibration, which continues for a long time, cracks begin to appear in the walls. If you do not carry out periodic cosmetic repairs of damaged elements, the situation will worsen and the part will have to be replaced completely. - Hypothermia . Surprising as it may seem. But the slopes can crack from airing the room in winter.
Important! In severe frosts, it is not recommended to leave windows open for a long time.
Plastic panels and working with them
The use of plastic panels is the fastest option, allowing you to improve the opening after installing window blocks within one day. Do-it-yourself slopes for plastic windows are installed in this order (without auxiliary profiles):
- The slopes are measured.
- The panels are cut to the required size.
- “Liquid nails” or putty are applied to the reverse side.
- The fragment is pressed to the surface.
- A sealant is applied between the frame and the panel.
- Plastic corners are glued to the outside.
Installation of plastic panels on window slopes
Indeed, this option allows you to close areas in a short time.
Of course, everyone chooses the method of repairing the slopes of plastic windows, which is used after installing the frames. The main thing is to strictly follow the technology.
Plaster
Do-it-yourself window slopes made of plaster have the following advantages:
- affordable price;
- high strength of the coating and its resistance to mechanical damage;
- when installing exterior finishing, the plaster layer can withstand the effects of natural phenomena and temperature changes;
- to learn how to create slopes on windows with your own hands using plaster, it is enough to study the basics of finishing work in the relevant literature or the Internet; If the integrity of the plaster layer is damaged, it is possible to repair window slopes with your own hands. You can repair the affected area by applying a new layer of mortar;
- plaster has a long service life.
Among the disadvantages, one can note the low thermal insulation qualities, the need to periodically restore the integrity of the coating, otherwise moisture will get into the cracks formed and mold will form . How to make such slopes when the window is installed will be described below.
Installation
Before starting work, you need to prepare your tools.
The work is carried out in the following sequence:
- the surface is cleaned of debris and dirt. Irregularities are sealed with mortar;
- level; Slope leveling
- at the leveling stage, a perforated corner is fixed at the corners of the opening, which will give the opening the correct geometry;
A corner is fixed at the corners of the opening - the resulting surface is treated with an antiseptic and primed; Slope primer
- apply a layer of plaster and grind the surface;
Grinding the slope surface - when the composition dries, the surface can be painted;
After plastering, the surface of the slope is painted
The decoration of the window opening with decorative plaster looks beautiful.
How to properly seal slopes after installing plastic windows
Windows play one of the important roles in the house; the quality of living directly depends on them. And it’s not just about the supply of sunlight, they provide the necessary microclimate, access to fresh air, and serve as an outlet for unpleasant odors. Their appearance says a lot about the owners; thanks to their neatness and aesthetics, they can become a real decoration of the room. Therefore, it is very important to know how to seal slopes after installing plastic windows, so as not to disturb the harmony with the overall interior of the room.
Sealing slopes after installing windows
Features of sealing window openings
It is important that after installing the windows, sealing the slopes should be done not only inside the room, but also outside. External factors adversely affect the foam layer; it collapses and loses its ability to perform its functions. External work must be done first.
Before making slopes after installing plastic windows, you need to decide on the material. For external finishing, two types are used: plaster and plastic panels. The same materials are also used for interior work, plus indoors you can use: plasterboard, sandwich panels, wood, cork.
Material for sealing slopes
Whatever material is chosen, before sealing the slopes after installing plastic windows, their surface must be treated with a special antifungal compound.
The application of waterproofing material is mandatory. It is recommended to lay PSUL on the outside of the installation seam (that’s what pre-compressed sealing tape is called), and the thicker it is, the better (the best option is 40 mm).
What slopes can you make yourself?
The simplest and most affordable type of sealing the slopes of plastic windows with your own hands is plastic cladding. This can be either a solid sheet from which elements are cut to the required sizes, or plastic panels. The installation technology is simple and accessible to anyone, the only thing that needs to be taken into account: such repair of slopes after installing plastic windows will cost more than plaster or drywall, but the fashionable and presentable appearance is worth it.
Sandwich panels, which are two connected PVC sheets with a polyurethane layer separating them (performing a thermal insulation function), are distinguished by simple and similar installation to plastic. This is the most expensive of all existing materials, but it is strong and durable.
If you are interested in how to make slopes after installing plastic windows in the cheapest way, then you should immediately note that plastering is a complex and labor-intensive process that will take several days. In addition, it requires the involvement of specialists.
The principle of installation of plastic slopes
Repair of slopes after installing new plastic windows begins with surface preparation:
- removing polyurethane foam residues;
- treating the opening with an antifungal solution;
- applying waterproofing.
A starting profile (U-shaped) is attached to the window frame along its perimeter with self-tapping screws. Along the outer side of the slopes, it is necessary to place a wooden strip, onto which F-shaped profiles for the slopes of plastic windows are then attached with staples using a construction stapler. It is very important to check the plane of the slats with a level; in case of deviations, alignment can be done using shims (you can buy them or use unused parts of the wooden slats).
Sealing plastic slopes with sealant
The further installation principle is to place plastic panels between the prepared profiles, starting from the top side of the opening. Initially, the side of the panel is inserted into the starting profile; sealant for slopes of plastic windows will help improve the fastening.
Before fixing the second side of the panel in the F-shaped profile, a layer of mineral wool is placed under the plastic. It performs the function of heat and sound insulation. For sandwich panels, this action is not performed, since they are already equipped with insulation.
Having figured out how to attach the upper slopes to plastic windows, proceed to installing the side panels. At the end of the work, it is recommended to cover the joints of the panels and the strip connecting them with the window sill with a thin layer of liquid plastic, carefully removing the excess.
Sandwich panel products
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic slopes can be done using multilayer material coated on both sides with decorative plastic. By installing plastic slopes with your own hands using sandwich panels, you don’t have to provide additional thermal insulation.
Sandwich panels have high thermal insulation properties
Installation of PVC slopes when using this material occurs quickly and with a minimum amount of debris. The use of slopes made of PVC panels of this type provides protection for windows from freezing.
Sandwich panels have the following characteristics:
- PVC provides reliable heat and sound insulation;
- finishing window slopes with this material increases the energy efficiency of the window system as a whole;
- if you correctly make slopes from panels with your own hands, then the window opening will acquire a neat appearance;
- finishing windows with plastic with your own hands is done quickly and efficiently;
- Even an untrained person can make slopes from plastic with insulation.
Installation
The sandwich panel can be attached in the same way as a PVC panel. How to properly make such a finish yourself is shown below.
Construction of a slope using sandwich panels
How to finish window slopes with plastic without a starting profile is shown step by step below.
- this installation method is relevant when the distance from the frame to the opening is small, when there is simply nowhere to mount the starting profile;
- excess foam is carefully removed.
A thin strip is attached to all sides of the opening; in this case, the panel is installed in foam by 1 cm, so the latter is trimmed accordingly along the entire perimeter; Sandwich panels are installed in a groove in the mounting foam. - First, the upper part is inserted into the resulting groove.
It bends a little, and the resulting space is covered with a small amount of foam; the panel is fastened with self-tapping screws to the rail; The sandwich panel is secured with self-tapping screws - The side fragments are mounted in the same way.
What you need to install plastic panels
The most expensive component for the slopes of plastic windows is the plastic itself (solid canvas or panels). In addition, you will need to purchase:
- U-shaped profile (it is the starting one);
- fastening elements (dowels, screws);
- F-shaped profile;
- isover (mineral wool);
- vapor barrier tape;
- antifungal solution;
- sealant;
- liquid plastic.
Installation of plastic slopes
For tools, make sure you have a construction stapler with staples, a screwdriver, a level, a folding meter and a simple pencil (for marking), and a hammer drill.
What do you need to know before starting work?
It is worth separately considering the issue of reinstalling the radiator if it was located directly under the bottom of the window opening. Outside you will need to install a window sill and fix the balustrade in the simplest way. If the event is more complex, you will have to cut through a wall. The following tools will be useful to you during the process:
- Steel corners at 90 degree angles to make a jumper.
- Channels.
- Beams made of reinforced concrete, when a new wall hole is indispensable.
- Hammer.
- Ruler.
- Bulgarian.
- Sledgehammer for dismantling.
- Mineral wool.
- Polyurethane foam.
Tools for installing doors.
If the wall is load-bearing, then the overlapping structures should be secured by using long vertical posts along the entire height of the housing. Most often, the door is made precisely in the load-bearing partition, which holds heavy slabs. For such a task, it is necessary to use beams for the sake of stability of the future structure. If you live in an apartment building, then you should take care of the consent of the residents and a special permit.
Related article: How to make a viewing hole in the garage
First, after you have removed the window, you need to remove the bottom partition. If it is made of brick, it can be broken with a sledgehammer. If there are metal elements in it, they are eliminated with a grinder. Drywall products are disassembled in parts, first the screws are taken out.
Painting slopes
Even with very careful dismantling of old windows, the slopes are damaged. All potholes, cracks and uneven surfaces must be repaired. To do this, use putty, gypsum or other materials based on sand and cement. Remnants of the mounting foam remain in the corners and at the joints; they are carefully cut off with a construction knife, trying not to damage the integrity of the mounting seam. A vapor barrier tape is glued over the cut foam. To prevent mold from appearing on the slopes, they are treated with an antifungal compound. For better adhesion, it is also recommended to coat the walls of the opening with a finishing primer.
The most difficult area for plastering is the upper slope. It is pre-strengthened with reinforcement. The mesh is attached to the slope with dowels, then plastered with perlite, vermiculite or perlite-gypsum mixture. The mixture for insulating and plastering slopes is best made using a construction mixer with an attachment, so it will turn out thick, viscous and homogeneous. First, a rough layer of putty is applied, then it is gradually leveled with a wide spatula.
2 hours after this work, small cracks and depressions may appear on the slopes. You can level them with a paint brush dipped in the same mixture, only with a thinner consistency. To form external corners, two construction tools are used - trowels. After the plaster has completely dried, the slopes are covered with paint in several layers, or acrylic sealant, which is an additional waterproofing. You can choose any paint color, but white is most often used; it makes the window opening lighter and more expressive.