How to make a heater with your own hands - 2 options for homemade devices

Those who want to make a heater with their own hands are not decreasing: the prices for factory-made autonomous heating devices are not encouraging, and their declared characteristics often turn out to be overpriced compared to the real ones. It is useless to make claims: y - the efficiency of heating a room strongly depends on its thermal properties. Cases where compensation for the consequences of an accident that occurred due to the fault of their product are also rare. True, although it is not prohibited by law to make household heaters yourself, trouble caused by a homemade product will be a serious aggravating circumstance for its manufacturer and owner. Therefore, this article further describes how to correctly design and manufacture safe household heaters of several systems, which are not inferior in thermal efficiency to the best industrial designs.

Pros and cons of induction water heating devices

The device has a fairly simple design and does not require special documents permitting use and installation.
The induction water heater has a high degree of efficiency and optimal reliability for the user. When using it as a heating boiler, you don’t even have to install a pump, since water flows through the pipes due to convection (when heated, the liquid practically turns into steam). The device also has a number of advantages, which sets it apart from other types of water heaters. So, an induction heater:

much cheaper than its analogues, such a device can be assembled independently without any problems;
completely silent (although the coil vibrates during operation, this vibration is not noticeable to humans);
during operation it vibrates, thanks to which dirt and scale do not stick to its walls, and therefore does not require cleaning;
has a heat generator that can be easily made sealed due to the operating principle: the coolant is located inside the heating element and the energy is transferred to the heater via an electromagnetic field, no contacts are needed; therefore, there will be no need for rubber seals, seals and other elements that can quickly deteriorate or leak;
there is simply nothing to break in the heat generator, since the water is heated by an ordinary pipe, which is unable to deteriorate or burn out, unlike a heating element;

Despite the huge number of advantages, an induction water heater also has a number of disadvantages:

the first and most painful for owners is the electricity bill; the device cannot be called economical, so you will have to shell out a fair amount of money to use it;
second, the device gets very hot and heats not only itself, but also the surrounding space, so it is better not to touch the body of the heat generator during its operation;
third, the device has extremely high efficiency and heat transfer, so when using it, be sure to install a temperature sensor, otherwise the system may explode.

Safety precautions

Making a heater is not difficult. It is much more difficult to save a building from fire when using homemade devices. Compliance with fire safety regulations is an integral part of any work with thermal heaters.

You should always remember:

Do not use faulty electrical appliances.
Such devices should not be left unattended or alone with small children.
Caring parents always try to make sure that dangerous parts of heaters are inaccessible to children.
If a fire occurs, immediately turn off the power supply to the device and then extinguish it. Immediately call the Ministry of Emergency Situations.

As a safety precaution, wise parents always teach their children how to properly handle thermal heaters and explain what they can and cannot do and why. By following fire safety rules and using only proven and reliable heaters, those living in the house will enjoy warmth and comfort for many years.

Algorithm for making a heater yourself;

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Efficient infrared emitter

Any infrared emitter that is used to heat a room is characterized by efficiency and high efficiency. All this is achieved thanks to a unique operating principle. Waves in the infrared spectrum do not interact with air, but increase the surface temperature of objects in the room.

They subsequently transfer thermal energy to the air. Thus, the maximum of radiant energy turns into thermal energy. It is precisely because of their high efficiency and efficiency, and also because of the low cost of structural elements, that infrared heaters are increasingly being made independently by ordinary people.

IR emitter based on graphite dust. Homemade room heaters,

Epoxy adhesive.

operating in the infrared spectrum, can be made from the following elements:

graphite crushed to dust;
epoxy adhesive;
two equal-sized pieces of transparent plastic or glass;
wire with plug;
copper terminals;
thermostat (optional);
wooden frame, comparable to pieces of plastic;
brush.

Crushed graphite.

First, prepare the work surface. To do this, take two pieces of glass of the same size, for example 1 m by 1 m. The material is cleaned of contaminants: paint residue, greasy hand marks. Alcohol will come in handy here. After the surfaces have dried, they proceed to preparing the heating element.

The heating element here is graphite dust. It is a conductor of electric current with high resistance. When connected to the power supply, the graphite dust will begin to heat up. Having reached a sufficient temperature, it will begin to emit infrared waves and we get a DIY IR heater for the home. But first, our conductor needs to be secured to the working surface. To do this, you need to mix carbon powder with the adhesive until a homogeneous mass is formed.

Homemade room heater.

Using a brush, we make tracks from a mixture of graphite and epoxy onto the surface of previously cleaned glass. This is done in a zigzag manner. The loops of each zigzag should not reach the edge of the glass by 5 cm, while the graphite strip should end and begin on one side. In this case, there is no need to make indentations from the edge of the glass. Terminals for connecting electricity will be attached to these places.

We place the glass on top of each other with the sides on which graphite is applied, and fasten them with glue. For greater reliability, we place the resulting workpiece in a wooden frame. Copper terminals and a wire are attached to the exit points of the graphite conductor on different sides of the glass to connect the device to the electrical network. Next, homemade room heaters need to be dried for 1 day. You can connect a thermostat in the chain. This will simplify the operation of the equipment.

What are the advantages of the resulting device? It is made from improvised materials, and therefore has a low cost. It heats up no higher than 60°C, and therefore you cannot get burned on its surface. The glass surface can be decorated at your discretion with film with a variety of designs, which will not violate the integrity of the interior composition. Do you want to make homemade gas heaters for your home? The video will help solve this problem.

Film IR heating device. To fully heat a medium-sized room, it is recommended to use ready-made film materials capable of emitting infrared waves. They are abundantly present in the modern market.

Required structural elements:

IR film 500 mm by 1250 mm (two sheets); Homemade film heater for an apartment.
foil, foam, self-adhesive polystyrene;
decorative corner;
two-core wire with plug;
polymer adhesive for wall tiles;
decorative material, preferably natural fabric;
decorative corners 15 cm by 15 cm.

Preparing the wall surface for a homemade heater for an apartment begins with fastening the thermal insulation. Its thickness should be at least 5 cm. To do this, remove the protective film from the self-adhesive layer and attach the polystyrene to the surface with the foil facing up. In this case, the material must be pressed tightly against the wall. An hour after completion of work, you can proceed to the next stage.

Sheets of IR film are connected to each other in series. Glue is applied to the back side of the material using a spatula. All this is attached to previously installed polystyrene. It will take 2 hours to securely fix the heater. Next, a cord with a plug and a thermostat are attached to the film. The final stage is decoration. To do this, the prepared fabric is attached over the film using decorative corners.

Electric spiral heater

A small homemade garage heater can be made in almost a couple of hours.

To do this you will need the following materials and tools:

fireproof (fireclay) brick – 2 pcs.;
nichrome spiral – 1.2-1.5 m;
steel or aluminum corner 35x35 or 40x40 mm - 1.5 m;
small grinder with discs: for stone and cutting for metal;
drill with drills: for metal – Ø 3 mm, pobedit – Ø 6-8 mm;
narrow chisel with hammer;
rivets with a key.

The device to be manufactured will be an insulating base made of two bricks with a spiral recessed into them, located on a frame made of angle steel.

Homemade electric heater based on a nichrome spiral

A square of 250x250 mm (the length of a brick) is drawn on a sheet of paper, in which a spiral layout is arranged - a labyrinth of strips 1 cm wide, directed from the edges of the square to the center.

Bricks that are selected with good geometry and without chips are cleaned, washed, dried and placed on a flat surface next to each other to form a square. The outline of the labyrinth drawn on the sheet is transferred to this square.

An example of marking a furrow for a spiral

Using a grinder with a stone disc (a dry cutter), a furrow is formed on the bricks. Along the boundaries of the groove, even cuts are made to a depth of 1 cm, and then the core between them is selected using the side edge of the same disk - this way the bottom of the groove is smooth.

Using a grinder to make straight sections of a groove for a spiral

If you cut out the middle between the cuts with a chisel, then there is a risk of splitting the brick; moreover, if the outcome is successful, you will still have to level the bottom of the furrow with a grinder.

By forming straight sections of the groove on the bricks with a disk, at turns there is no need to go beyond the boundaries of the contour in order to create the required depth of the groove - this is carefully done with a small chisel, which can be made from an M10 tap or a Ø10 mm drill. Finishing the corner sections of the furrow with a chisel

Finishing the corner sections of the furrow with a chisel

After the groove is formed, a spiral is placed into it.

In the grooves at the beginning of the “labyrinth,” two through holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm are made using a drill with a Pobedit tip for subsequent connection of the ends of the spiral to the power cable.

Places for making holes in the brick for bringing the spiral down

Then they begin to make a tripod from angle steel for installing bricks into it.

Using a grinder with a cutting disc for metal, cut a corner to size - 4 elements for the frame and 4 support legs. Corner pieces can be connected in two ways:

electric welding, having previously cut the ends of the fragments for the frame at an angle of 45 o;
using blind rivets, drilling holes in elements placed on top of each other.

Assembled metal stand for brick insulator

The thickness of the brick is 5.5-6.5 cm, so at both ends of the spiral we straighten several turns to even sections approximately 10 cm long. The straightened ends of the spiral are passed down through the holes in the brick and connected to the ends of the power cable.

Connecting the spiral to the electrical cable after exiting down through the holes in the brick

The heater is installed in the working position, the spiral is distributed in the groove until it is evenly tensioned along its entire length.

Perform a test connection of the device to the network. Electrical wiring and automatic line shutdown must be designed for a power of at least 3 kW.

After the device enters operating mode, its spiral should not be bright red, but brown-crimson in color.

If the coil is overheated, it is necessary to reduce the current, which is done by adding a 20-40 A diode to the circuit.

Diagram of parallel connection of two heat-reducing diodes and normal color of the spiral in operating mode

The electricity consumption of such a homemade heater cannot be called economical, but it is quite acceptable for short-term activations - minor car repairs in the garage, for a small greenhouse as an emergency means of heating, heating food, etc.

Making an oil heater with your own hands

Homemade register with heating element and air vent.

Firstly, the container for the future radiator must be absolutely sealed. Otherwise, the coolant will leak out, which will lead to overheating of the heating element (heating element). Therefore, you need to master some techniques for properly welding metal. We talked about them in the article about welding pipes for heating.

Secondly, the coolant here should be mineral oil, if possible transformer oil. It should fill the heater tank to 85%. The rest of the space is left for air. It is necessary to prevent water hammer. Thirdly, in the case of using a cast iron tank for the heater, a steel heating element is used. For a stainless steel tank, a copper heating element is suitable. Magnesium anodes cannot be used in this system.

Use a sketch.

Source materials:

old, cast iron radiator or steel pipes with a diameter of 15 cm, pipes with a diameter of 7 cm;
heating element;
transformer oil;
thermostat;
two-core cord with a plug at the end;
pump up to 2.5 kW.

You will have to work using a welding machine, a drill, a set of drills and electrodes. Pliers will come in handy. Making an oil heater for

The heating element is inserted into the lower end.

Do-it-yourself apartments begin with preparing the tank. If you took an old cast-iron battery, it must be disassembled into sections and thoroughly cleaned of dirt and rust, and be sure to degrease the inner surface. If you need a heater of increased power, then prepare a welded structure from prepared pipes, where pipes of larger diameter are located horizontally.

Pipes of smaller diameter serve as bridges between the main ones. The coolant will circulate through them. You need to remember that in the lower pipe you need to leave a hole for installing the heating element. If there are several heating elements, they are located on different sides of the tank and should not touch. A hole is also left for the pump. The heating element is securely fastened with bolts. The hole for it can be made with a grinder or autogens.

If a do-it-yourself room heater turns out to be voluminous and natural circulation of coolant in it is impossible, resort to the help of a pump. It is located at the bottom of the equipment. The pump should not come into contact with the heating element.

After installation of structural elements, the equipment is checked for leaks. If the result is satisfactory, then the coolant is filled. The drain hole is securely sealed with a plug. The equipment is connected to the electrical network in parallel. The circuit is supplemented with a bimetallic thermostat made from a regular iron. Before the first start-up, the installation is grounded. Homemade oil heaters for the home: the video will explain in detail their structure and installation rules:

Rules for proper operation

Only adult users who have carefully studied the manual and operating recommendations can turn the gas convector on and off and adjust its operating modes. It is unacceptable for the younger generation or incapacitated people to participate in these processes. If it is impossible to protect the gas convector from their interference, then it is better to refuse to install the device in advance.

The room in which the gas convector is planned to be used must be ventilated, which requires the presence of a window or at least a vent. It is advisable that the door leaf have ventilation grilles

Remember that if a specific gas smell is detected in the room, the tap at the entrance to the convector should be closed immediately. Under no circumstances should you “spark” in such a situation: strike matches, turn on the lights, use a lighter, etc. If these requirements are not followed, a seemingly small leak can cause a devastating explosion.

The room in which a leak was discovered must be immediately ventilated by opening the windows and door wide. You should immediately call the employees of the gas organization that connected your device to the centralized mains, or the emergency service. It will be possible to operate the gas heater only after the leak has been completely eliminated or the device has been repaired.

Idea No. 1 – Compact model for local heating

The simplest way to make an electric heater is this one. To get started, prepare the following materials:

2 identical rectangular glasses, each with an area of about 25 cm2 (for example, dimensions 4*6 cm);
a piece of aluminum foil, the width of which is no greater than the width of the glass;
cable for connecting an electric heater (copper, two-wire, with plug);
paraffin candle;
epoxy adhesive;
sharp scissors;
pliers;
wooden block;
sealant;
several ear sticks;
clean cloth.

As you can see, the materials for assembling a homemade electric heater are not at all scarce, and most importantly, everything can be at hand. So, you can make a small electric heater with your own hands using the following step-by-step instructions:

Wipe the glass thoroughly with a cloth to remove dirt and dust.
Using pliers, carefully grab the glass by the edge and burn one side with a candle. The soot should evenly cover the entire surface. Similarly, you need to burn one of the sides of the second glass. In order for carbon deposits to settle on the surface better, it is recommended to cool the glass before assembling the electric heater.
After the glass pieces have cooled, carefully use ear sticks to clean the edges no more than 5 mm around the entire perimeter.
Cut two strips of foil, the width exactly corresponding to the width of the smoked area on the glass.
Apply glue to the glass over the entire burned surface (it is conductive).
Place the pieces of foil as shown in the photo below. Then apply glue to the other half and connect them.
Then seal all joints.
Using a tester, measure the resistance of your homemade heater yourself. After this, calculate its power using the formula: P=I2*R. We talked about how to use a multimeter in the corresponding article. If the power does not exceed the permissible values, proceed to complete the assembly. If the power is too high, you need to redo the heating element - make the carbon layer thicker (the resistance will become less).
Glue the ends of the foil to one of the sides.
Make a stand from a block, installing contact pads on it connected to an electrical cord.

Using this technology you can make an electric mini heater with your own hands. The maximum heating temperature will be about 40°, which will be quite enough for local heating. However, such a homemade product will, of course, not be enough to heat a room, so below we will provide more efficient options for homemade electric heaters.

From a candle

A candle, by the way, is a fairly strong source of heat. For a long time, this property was considered a hindrance: in the old days, at balls, ladies and gentlemen would sweat, makeup would run, and powder would clump together. How they even turned cupids after that, without hot running water and a shower, is difficult for a modern person to understand.

Home mini heater from a candle

The heat from a candle in a cold room is wasted for the same reason that a single-circuit convection heater does not heat well: hot exhaust gases rise up too quickly and cool, producing soot. Meanwhile, making them burn out and give heat is easier than a gas flame, see fig. In this system, a 3-circuit afterburner is assembled from ceramic flower pots; baked clay is a good IR emitter. A candle heater is intended for local heating, say, so as not to tremble while sitting at the computer, but just one candle provides a surprising amount of heat. When using it, you only need to open the window slightly, and when going to bed, be sure to extinguish the candle: it also consumes a lot of oxygen for combustion.

Basic requirements for a homemade heater

Any type of heating equipment for the home, regardless of design features and manufacturing complexity, must meet the basic requirements:

Simplicity and accessibility in assembly.
Safety and reliability in operation.
Efficiency in energy consumption.
High productivity and working power.
Affordable cost of structural elements and materials.
Ergonomics and ease of transportation.
Durability and practicality.

Among the existing heaters, the most efficient and productive are: infrared, quartz and ceramic emitters, and electric convector.

Principles of snake bending

It is necessary to base this scheme on the type of battery

The covers are cut according to glass parameters. Contaminants are removed from them. Ears are attached to one covering. Their parameters: 2.5 x 5 cm. The basis of such a film is copper foil. It is glued with superglue. The ear extends onto the lining by 5 mm. Protrudes 2 cm.

The formation of the snake must be done on a special template. For ponytails, a minimum of 5 cm is allocated. The bitten ends of the nails are used. They are ground to roundness.

The wire is wound onto the template. It must be annealed to fix the shape.

A voltage of 5-6 V is applied to the snake. When the material has a shine with a cherry tint, the thread should cool completely. This operation is repeated 3-4 times.

A plywood strip is placed on the snake. The snake is pressed with your fingers. Slowly unwind the tails that were wound on the nails (nail diameter - 2mm). Each ponytail needs to be straightened and molded. The nail retains 25% of the twist. The remainder is cut flush with the extreme side of the template. And the remaining 5 mm of the tail should be cleaned using a sharp knife.

The snake is carefully removed from the mandrel and attached to the substrate. The leads are in contact with the lamellas. You need to remove the snake with two knives. The blades are inserted from the outside under the bends of the branches on nails (1 mm)

Then the winding heating thread is carefully lifted and lifted. The snake is placed on the backing and slightly bent. The leads are in the center of the lamellas

The leads appear in the center of the lamellas.

Nichrome is soldered to copper. The solder medium is conductive paste. Liquid solder is dripped onto a clean contact (1 drop). Through a piece of polyethylene, this area is pressed down with a weight. When the paste becomes hard, the weight and polyethylene are removed.

Next comes work on the emitter. A 1.5 mm layer of silicone sealant is pressed onto the center of the snake. Then the operation is repeated, but the layer is already 3-4 mm. The sealant fills the contour of the substrate. The distance from the edges is 5 mm.

The glass is carefully applied. Pressed down. It should fit tightly

Next is waiting for the silicone to dry. It's about a week

It should fit tightly. Next is waiting for the silicone to dry. This is about a week.

Then the excess sealant is removed with a razor. Sealant leaks from the lamellas are also eliminated.

OCD

Model using IR silicate glass

Since IR silicate glass is used, products of different brands experience sharp changes in thermal conductivity and transparency. For this reason, make and test one emitter. Based on the test results, it may be necessary to vary the diameter of the material.

The following arithmetic principles should be taken into account for quartz installations.

Material parameters

0.5 mm: power – 350 W, current – 1.6 A.

0.6 mm – 420 W and 1.9 A.

0.7 mm: 500 W and 2.27 A.

0.8 mm: 530 W and 2.4 A.

0.9 mm: 570 W and 2.6 A.

Thin wires have a solid radiating surface. When using thick versions, exceed the IR power that glass can transmit.

Testing

The finished product is placed vertically on a non-flammable surface. Supported with a heat-resistant object. A current of 3 A is supplied to the product. A digital tester is used to monitor the current.

We need to check the behavior of the glass. If it quickly heats up and cracks within half an hour, it is not suitable.

After 1.5 hours, the radiation power is checked. Place your palms parallel to the radiating planes. The distance from them is 15-17 cm. You need to hold it for at least 3A min. Then you will feel a soft warmth for 5-10 minutes. If your palms immediately get burned, you need to reduce the diameter of the wire. If after 20 minutes there is not even slight heat, thicker material is needed.

Step-by-step assembly diagrams

Enough time is devoted to choosing an economical and effective option so that you don’t have to be disappointed later. Assembling an electric heater with your own hands is not so difficult that a novice master cannot handle it. The assembly principle of almost all designs is similar, therefore, having mastered the manufacture of one device, it is easy to switch to another.

Oil battery

Oil heaters are very popular. Their operating principle is very simple: the oil located inside the pipes is heated by a heating element inserted inside. This device is very easy to manufacture and has good efficiency and safety indicators.

Making your own oil heater is not difficult, you just need to follow the instructions

They do it like this:

Take a heating element (power - 1 kW) and an electrical cord with a plug for the socket. Some craftsmen install a thermal relay for automatic control. It is also purchased in the store.
The building is being prepared. An old water heating battery or car radiator will do for this. You can weld the body of the device from pipes yourself if you have welding skills.
Two holes are made in the housing: at the bottom - for inserting the heating element, at the top - for filling oil and replacing it.
Insert the heating element into the lower part of the housing and seal the mounting location well.
Fill in oil at the rate of 85% of the internal volume of the housing.
They connect control and automation devices and insulate electrical connections well.

DIY infrared heater;

Mini garage heater

Sometimes a very compact heater is required for certain purposes. In such situations, a mini fan heater made from an ordinary tin can can help out.

To make it, take the following steps:

Prepare a large tin can of coffee or other products, a computer fan, a 12 W transformer, nichrome wire with a cross section of 1 mm, and a diode rectifier.
A frame is cut out of PCB according to the diameter of the can and two small holes are made in it to tension the incandescent coil.
Insert the ends of the nichrome spiral into the holes and solder them to the stripped electrical wiring. For variability of modes and reliability, several spirals are connected in parallel and a power regulator is installed.
Assemble the electrical equipment of the heater. All connections are well soldered and insulated.
Mount the fan inside the can with bolts and a bracket.
The electrical wires are secured well so that they do not overheat and do not fall into the cavities of the fan when the heater is moved.
To allow air access, about 30 holes are drilled in the bottom of the jar.
For safety, a metal grill or cover with holes is put on the front.
For stability, a special stand is made from thick wire.
Plug in and check the device.

Infrared heating panel

Recently, infrared ceramic heaters have become increasingly popular. Making such a device with your own hands is much more difficult if you do not buy ready-made thermal panels, but it is quite possible.

You can make a similar modern infrared heater at home

To do this, do the following:

Prepare materials: fine graphite powder, epoxy glue, 2 metal-plastic or ceramic plates of 1 m² each, 2 copper terminals, wooden blanks for the frame, electrical wires and a switch, maybe a power regulator for a more complex option.
Draw a mirror arrangement of spirals on both plates on the inside. The distance from the edge is about 20 mm, between the turns and terminals - at least 10 mm.
Graphite is mixed with epoxy resin 1 to 2.
Place the slabs with the diagram on the table, smooth side down.
Apply a thin layer of a mixture of graphite and glue according to the scheme.
One of the sheets is placed on top of the second sheet, with the smooth side facing you. They press them tightly to each other.
Insert the terminals at the pre-designated terminal locations.
Let it dry.
Connect the electrical wires and check operation.
Make a wooden frame for stability.
The device is equipped with a thermostat.

DIY homemade heater;

Subtleties of choice

Now it’s time to find out how to choose an outdoor electric heater for your dacha with your own hands. This process will not take much time, even if you do not have specific knowledge. If you choose the right device, then you can raise the temperature to 25 degrees. If necessary, you can also choose a model that has an interesting design.

If you take into account all the points when choosing, then you can get a reliable device:

Device power. During manufacturing, the manufacturer must indicate how much area the device can heat. Before purchasing it, you must correctly calculate the dimensions of your terrace. If you are planning to choose a heater for your dacha, then its power should be 2 kW.
Automation. Many models may have a special motion sensor. This will make your life much easier. You just need to enter the room and the device will automatically start heating.
Availability of power regulator. Thanks to this addition, you can independently set the correct heating mode.
Material of manufacture. The housing must be made of plastic or stainless steel. This will allow you to get a truly reliable device.
Design. This criterion is considered quite important. Today there can be a wide range of different models, which can have a variety of designs and, accordingly, installation methods. Only you decide which device to choose. Typically, many summer residents choose the floor installation option.

Cord length. Before purchasing a heater, you should choose a unit that has a long cord. It is best not to use an extension cord while connecting this device.
Availability of special rollers. Typically, heaters are heavy and therefore it is better to use special rollers to move them.
Fall protection. If the heater falls or deviates from its axis, then the device will automatically turn off the power.
Remote control. Now many manufacturers have begun to produce devices that can be controlled by remote control. Thanks to this, you can greatly simplify the management process.
When choosing, you need to take your choice of company seriously. Recently, the leading position has been occupied by Enders.

Types of heaters

A home craftsman who wants to acquire a homemade “hot water bottle” can choose from several options:

Oil

It is a container equipped with a tubular electric heater (TEH) and filled with oil.

The main element of the heating element is a spiral made of nichrome or other material with high electrical resistance, which begins to heat up when an electric current is passed through it. The spiral is placed in a copper tube filled with sand.

The oil removes heat from the heating element, distributes it over the surface of the body and, in addition, serves as a heat accumulator (after a power outage, the device continues to heat the surrounding air for some time).

Steam-drip

In its design, a vapor-drip heater is very similar to an oil heater, only water vapor is used as a medium that distributes heat. It is formed from a small amount of water, which is poured into the body.

This solution provides two significant advantages:

When freezing, the vapor-drip heater will not burst, since water occupies only a small part of its volume.
Steam is an extremely capacious heat accumulator. More precisely, not so much steam as the evaporation process: it is during the transition from liquid to gaseous state that water accumulates a large amount of thermal energy, which is returned when steam condenses on the walls of the heater.

Having transferred heat to the body of the device, the condensed steam in the form of water flows to the lower part, where the heating element is installed. The power of the heating element and the volume of water are selected in such a way that rupture of the heater by steam pressure is excluded.

Due to the fact that the device body is hermetically sealed, its internal walls do not rust due to high humidity.

Candlestick

A candle flame is known to emit not only light, but also some heat.

Only it usually evaporates to the ceiling in the form of convective air currents and is “smeared” over the entire area of the room.

Why not place a heat trap above the candle? We will tell you what it is in the next section.

Infrared (IR)

Any substance with a temperature different from absolute zero emits “thermal” electromagnetic waves, which are called infrared.

The intensity of this radiation is directly dependent on the temperature of the substance. Water and oil radiators also emit IR waves, but in very small quantities because their surface is relatively cold.

To turn a metal object into an IR emitter, it is enough to heat it to a red glow temperature. If you use special materials, for example, graphite, then quite noticeable “heat” waves can be achieved at relatively low temperatures.

Knowledge of these subtleties will help us make our own IR heater, which will give us heat directly, that is, without the participation of air as an intermediary.

Other types

Since electricity is not available everywhere, structures running on gas or solid fuel have the right to life. The latter include potbelly stoves.

For home

When it's cold at home, you can make a homemade heater from an old computer power supply. The cooler must be in good working order; as a last resort, to create a homemade heater, replace the broken fan. The idea of the product: replace the getinaks printed circuit board with a substrate made of non-foil PCB, to which strips for winding a nichrome spiral are attached.

The current heats the coils of wire, the fan blows a warm stream over the structure, and the owner enjoys the warmth.

So let's get started. It is logical to start by calculating the power and buy or cut the required amount of nichrome wire. For a homemade heater, it is better to provide two separate spirals so that the temperature can be regulated.

For the frame, PCB without foil will be used, in which holes are drilled for the wire. It is proposed to install three strips in parallel. The arrangement of holes in a homemade heater corresponds to the principle of presence. It’s difficult to give advice; it’s easier to decide locally what to drill and where.

Using small metal corners, the strips are placed on the substrate, parallel and at equal distances. Now let's wind the spiral of a homemade heater. Do not touch the body or structural parts other than the slats. To power the cooler, you will have to invent something like a rectifier made of diodes, a capacitor and a small transformer.

The spiral is connected directly to 220 V AC. The resulting device is added with switches for the coils and will begin to blow warm air at the owner. Of course, the structure burns oxygen, and in addition it will smell scorched. Created exclusively for unplanned cold weather.

Advantages of homemade devices

Homemade appliances for heating a city apartment, country house or cottage have significant advantages over factory-made products. They are as follows:

Possibility of manufacturing from accessible and cheap materials, which leads to a reduction in the cost of the finished device.
Simple and compact design that can be used in various rooms.
Ease of use and transportation.
High efficiency with silent operation of structural elements.
Self-assembled quality.

Today, infrared heaters are available for self-production, which are the safest and most efficient to use. If more powerful equipment is required, then you can assemble an oil radiator, an alcohol heater, a heat gun, a battery-powered and gas-powered device.

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Recently, outdoor electric heaters for dachas have been gaining great popularity. Thanks to the use of these devices, you can relax in comfort on your summer area.

These devices are becoming more and more interesting every day. In this article you will find information on how to choose electric heaters for outdoor use and what models exist today. If you are interested, then read about creating an induction boiler.

Water heating

The operating principle of the system is based on the circulation of heated water in a closed loop from the boiler, pipes and heating batteries. The boiler produces heat, heats water, which, usually using a pump, is sent through pipes to the radiators, which heat the room.

Among the undeniable advantages of water heating, it should be noted:

long service life. Provided high-quality installation and careful operation, the system will serve regularly for decades;
reliability. If pipes or batteries fail, they can be replaced with your own hands without any problems;
environmental friendliness and high safety indicators.

Despite its many strong qualities, hydronic heating is very rarely used in garages. Equipment of such a system requires serious financial costs. Most often, such heating is used in cases where the garage is located next to the house or in garage cooperatives, provided that several garages are connected to a boiler and other related units.

Water heating system design diagram

Water heating is best used in permanent garages made of solid concrete blocks and bricks. It is recommended to refrain from installing such a system in buildings made of metal profiles and other lightweight materials.

Are you here

A gas convector for heating a garage is the most economical heating method compared to electrical appliances. For one reason or another, it is not always possible to heat a garage with electrical appliances (insufficient electricity, interruptions, high cost). Yes, initially the cost of a gas convector is higher than the cost of electric heaters, but its payback (due to the difference in the cost of gas in relation to electricity) is only one month. The clean operation of the device consists in the intake of air and the removal of combustion products from the street through a coaxial pipe; only the heat exchanger is in direct contact with the room. The only main disadvantage of a gas convector in comparison with electrical appliances is the complexity of its installation and the installation of a coaxial pipe.

Advantages of gas convectors

Durability, cast iron heat exchanger, service life more than 20 years. A wide range of models, divided by power, from 2 to 10 kW, is easy and convenient to select for any area. The device is easy to use, does not take up much space, and is silent. In order to calculate your benefit, simply compare the cost of gas and electricity.

Water heating system

The operating principle of any water circuit is based on the transfer of thermal energy from a boiler or furnace to heating radiators. The liquid is moved using a pump or convection.

It consists of the following elements:

heat exchanger for heating water;
main pipes;
circulation pumps;
metal batteries or registers;
expansion tank;
pressure valve, drain taps and filter.

Softened water or ethylene glycol-based antifreeze is used as a coolant.

How to do it quickly and cheaply?

It’s not difficult to make a water heating system for your garage with your own hands. To do this, you will need to calculate the required battery power for the garage and the heat transfer of the heating element. For a water heating installation use:

electric heating elements;
electric boiler or solid fuel boiler;
potbelly stove with a heat exchanger in the firebox;
waste oil furnace;
economizer on the stove chimney.

Photo 1. A waste oil furnace is well suited for a garage water heating system.

The simplest electric boiler for a garage can be easily, cheaply and quickly made from a pipe with a diameter of 100–150 mm, placed vertically. A heating element and two water pipes are installed inside.

Having chosen a place for the boiler or furnace in the garage, they begin laying pipes to the radiators. It is better to take pipes from polypropylene (metal-plastic) - they do not rust and are easy to install and connect. Heating radiators in the garage are placed on the walls, leaving a small gap for air circulation. A valve is installed at the highest point to bleed air.

A single-circuit system will operate without an additional pump, due to thermal convection. A more complex circuit will require a circulation pump. The expansion tank will prevent air from entering the system when the liquid level drops due to natural evaporation.

Attention! It is not recommended to use open antifreeze systems in the garage due to harmful ethylene glycol fumes

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of water heating of the garage:

comfortable constant temperature;
retains heat for a long time after switching off;
absence of ash, dust and dirt;
ease of use and the ability to automatically turn on;
the use of antifreeze makes the system year-round.

Minuses:

water freezes in winter and destroys pipes and radiators;
probability of leakage;
complexity of installation and sealing of the circuit;

Film infrared heater

Film materials that emit infrared waves can be purchased and are commercially available. The choice is great, but manufacturers do not always care about the safety of their products

Pay attention to the composition of the infrared film and refuse to purchase it if you see lead in the instructions. It is extremely dangerous to health!

Important: the “correct” IR film is always accompanied by a quality certificate. To make an IR heater you will need the following materials and tools:

To make an IR heater you will need the following materials and tools:

2 sheets of IR film 500 mm by 1250 mm;
polystyrene (foamed, foil, self-adhesive);
decorative corner;
wire with plug (two-core);
thermostat;
polymer glue;
decorative material (ideally natural fabric);
decorative corners 150 mm by 150 mm.

It is necessary to strengthen the thermal insulation on the wall. The thickness of the foamed polystyrene must be at least 5 cm. After removing the protective film, the plate should be pressed against the wall with a self-adhesive layer. In this case, the surface with foil will be directed inside the room.
You can start the next stage of work only after an hour - let the glue set properly.
It is necessary to connect the sheets of IR film together in series.
Apply glue to the back of the film using a spatula or brush.
Attach the IR film to the polystyrene and leave for 2 hours.
Attach an electrical cord with a plug and a thermostat to the structure.
Decorate the heater using a piece of natural fabric and decorative corners.

Standards for the location of gas convectors

Gas convectors are installed inside heated residential, utility and industrial premises. They can be used in warehouses, garages and other explosive facilities, subject to the rules of use.

The number of devices is calculated based on the cubic capacity of the room to be processed. It is believed that on average 1 kW generated by a device can provide heat to 20 m³. Of course, averaged values are not enough for an accurate selection; besides, the calculations are influenced by climatic conditions and the actual heat loss of the building, but you can get an idea of the approximate number of required convectors.

Either a home-made or a factory-made gas convector is mounted on a permanent wall. It is recommended to place it directly under the window, but not in a niche that impedes the movement of air flow. It is necessary to install the device so that nothing interferes with operation and maintenance.

Most manufacturers of gas convection appliances recommend maintaining the following distances from building structures:

At least 150 mm from the plane of the floor with a flammable coating.
From the plane of the floor with a non-flammable coating, 100 mm.
From a window sill or other similar structure rising above the convector, at least 100 mm.
150 mm from structures and objects located on the left/right/behind.
From the front wall of the gas convector to the nearest obstacle from 500 mm.

It is imperative that the gas convector be equipped with a coaxial chimney, led out into the street through a main wall or through a roofing system. The thickness of the wall crossed by the chimney can be 600... 800 mm.

It is recommended to equip the coaxial pipe connected to the gas convector with a deflector on the outside.
It will prevent the penetration of birds, leaves, branches into the device, and will prevent blowing by gusty winds. When exiting through the wall, there cannot be less than 300 mm between the coaxial pipe and the ground surface. If it comes out at a height of more than 2000 mm from the ground surface, protection should be provided against atmospheric negativity and unauthorized entry.

Basic requirements for a homemade heater

Any type of heating equipment for the home, regardless of design features and manufacturing complexity, must meet the basic requirements:

Simplicity and accessibility in assembly.
Safety and reliability in operation.
Efficiency in energy consumption.
High productivity and working power.
Affordable cost of structural elements and materials.
Ergonomics and ease of transportation.
Durability and practicality.

Among the existing heaters, the most efficient and productive are: infrared, quartz and ceramic emitters, and electric convector.