I want to tell you how to install an interior door without a threshold with your own hands, since I myself have considerable experience in this. Today, in construction stores you can buy different door leaves and frame boards, but the principle of their installation and installation requirements always remain the same.
Source vseprodveri.ru
Basic rules for installing interior doors without a threshold
In order to install a door yourself, you need to adhere to the installation rules, study the experience of professionals and follow the instructions.
Before installing an interior door without a threshold, you need to level the walls and finish finishing the floor (lay tiles, linoleum, laminate). If the box is already standing, then the canvas is removed and the trim is covered with tape.
To ensure that the finished door opens and closes well and does not get stuck in the frame, special attention is paid to the gaps. The standard gap should be 2-3 mm.
Video
https://derevo-s.ru/stroeniya/dom/ustanovka-mezhkomnatnyh-dverej
https://profi.ru/blog/ustanovka-mezhkomnatnyx-dverej-svoimi-rukami/
https://cozzyroom.com/ustanovka-dverej-svoimi-rukami.html
https://remoskop.ru/instruktsiya-ustanovke-mezhkomnatnyih-dverey-vyipolnyayte-montazh.html
https://dveridoma.net/montazh-mezhkomnatnyx-dverej-svoimi-rukami/
Clearance requirements
The gap between the door leaf and the top crossbar, as well as the side vertical bars, should be 3 mm.
The bottom gap depends on whether the door is installed after laying the flooring (laminate, linoleum, carpet, etc.) or before. In the first case, the gap between the leaf and the door leaves 10-15 mm. If it is intended to lay a covering, then the thickness of the material is added to the specified value.
It is necessary to leave gaps between the frame and the opening. Here wedges will be inserted to level the box and polyurethane foam will be laid.
In modern houses, builders take into account the size of the doors when making openings. In old buildings, openings may be of non-standard sizes. In this case, too wide ones are bricked. If the size of the opening is slightly less than the required size, use a plane to cut off the outer part of the counter beam. The hinged beam should not be made too thin, since it bears the weight of the door hanging on its hinges.
Preparatory work
To prevent door installation from causing unexpected difficulties, it is recommended to carry out preparatory work before it begins:
- Before installing a door without a threshold, you need to level the walls and lay the flooring.
- Prepare in advance the tools and materials needed for installation.
- Clean an area of the floor or install a wide, long table with a perfectly flat surface for assembling the box.
- Decide which way the door will open.
- Measure the doorway and select a set of doors according to its dimensions.
Materials and tools
To install an interior door, you will need the following tools and materials:
- sharpened pencil, carpenter's knife, tape measure and ruler;
- level - professionals use a laser level, which has perfect accuracy;
- a miter box and a fine-toothed hacksaw - the best results when cutting are obtained with a miter saw (without certain skills it can be difficult to make a 45° cut with a hacksaw);
- wood drill, hammer drill, screwdriver, screwdriver;
- screws, self-tapping screws, nails;
- hammer;
- chisel;
- mallet;
- polyurethane foam;
- wedges of different sizes - they can be sawed from the remains of timber.
For convenience, craftsmen use special stands with slots to hold the door leaf in a vertical position. This is convenient when installing hinges and locks.
Design features of latches
Door latches, which you can install yourself, are a kind of locking device, the operating principle of which is similar to the operation of built-in door locks.
The main difference between a latch and a full-fledged lock is that in the first case, a special key is not required to open the door. To do this, just turn the handle of the locking mechanism. This solution is ideal for interior door designs. Such latches are installed on entrance doors as an additional locking device and to increase security.
By design, the following types of products are distinguished:
- Latches;
- Deadbolts;
- Butterfly valves.
According to the method of mounting the latches, there are:
- Invoices;
- Mortise.
The most popular among consumers are rotary latch models that cut directly into the door leaf. They are equipped with an automatic shutter mechanism and have a more attractive appearance. Installation of such devices can be performed on doors made of any material.
There are other options for latches, for example, rotary latching handles, which allow you to close interior doors and securely fix them.
Box assembly
The door frame bars are fixed together in several ways:
- At an angle of 90° . When connected at an angle of 90°, the beams are fastened together with screws at right angles. It is necessary to remove (cut out) part of the protrusion at the place where the vertical beam and the crossbar are attached; a kind of groove is obtained.
- I washed it down at 45° . The upper edges of the vertical posts and both edges of the horizontal strip are filed at a strictly 45° angle, and then connected at the upper corners of the box.
- Tenon connection . The tenon joint is durable. But due to its complexity, it is used very rarely.
The most popular and aesthetic way of fastening is at 45°.
Before assembling the box, you need to take careful measurements:
- The length of the vertical bars on the inside is calculated by the formula: door leaf length 2000 mm + floor covering thickness 30 mm + bottom gap 15 mm + top gap 3 mm = 2048 mm.
- The width of the top beam on the inside is equal to the width of the door leaf + 6 mm (3 mm for gaps on both sides).
The length of the false and loop beams may differ if there is a difference in floor level between the sides of the doorway. Therefore, before cutting the beams for the box, you need to measure the level.
When using a laser level, marks are made on opposite sides of the opening and the distance to the floor is measured from them. When the floor is lower on one side, this difference is added to the length of the beam. If you do not take this point into account and make the racks the same height, then the door will warp during installation.
Craftsmen recommend first making a cut in the upper part of the beams at an angle of 45°, and then cutting the lower edge to the required length. This is done so that if the cut is unsuccessful, it can be repeated below. If the beam is already shortened, then it will not be possible to correct the defect.
A 45° cut is made either on a miter saw, setting the platform to the desired mark, or using a miter box and a hacksaw. On the vertical elements, one cut is made in the upper part, on the horizontal bar - two cuts.
For convenient connection of parts, hidden holes are made (recesses where the screws will be hidden). Then, using a drill whose diameter is smaller than the diameter of the screw, holes are drilled. They are directed at an angle of 90° to the cut. Two recesses are made on the side posts, and 1 in the middle on the top posts. Thus, the fixation will be with 3 screws - 2 of them on the side of the vertical posts, and 1 on the side of the horizontal.
To level the box, the beams are laid on a horizontal surface and twisted. It is important to ensure that the elements do not move relative to each other.
For convenience, before attaching the loop beam to the crossbar, the location of the loops is marked on it and selections are made for them.
Manufacturing
Wood
If you need to replace a worn wooden threshold, you first need to dismantle the old one using ordinary tools - a hammer and a nail puller (if it was nailed) or a screwdriver (for cutters).
Dismantling
It will serve as a template for you to make or purchase.
Then you have to do the following:
Thoroughly clean the installation site from dust and dirt. If the concrete base is destroyed during dismantling, remove all loose screed elements and level with mortar, having previously primed the surface. The threshold can be installed only after the solution has completely dried. At the bottom of the side pillars of the door frame, make grooves to a height determined by you, measure the required length and cut the wooden blank along it
Insert it into place by carefully tapping it through the wooden spacer with a hammer. Installation
Installation
If you don’t know how to secure it, then drill it through with a thin drill in 2-3 places so that marks remain on the base. Remove, make holes in the concrete according to the marks and drive dowels into them. Reinstall the threshold in place and screw it with self-tapping screws, recessing the caps into the body of the tree
Fill the resulting holes with putty.
Made from concrete
Often after installing new doors, no matter what - entrance, balcony (see Options for balcony doors: how to make the right choice) or doors to bathrooms - you see this picture. After installing the door
After installing the door
Naturally, the question arises: how to make it with your own hands so that they look good on both sides? The optimal solution would be to install a concrete threshold and then finish it.
In this case, you can repeat the configuration of the existing ledge, or you can make the threshold wider and more comfortable so that you can step on it with your entire foot when entering and exiting.
So:
- Cut off the polyurethane foam and clean the area to be filled, prime it and screw iron bolts into the floor to the height of the future threshold. They will act as reinforcement.
- Make formwork from boards or any durable sheet material according to size and height.
Place it in place and secure it firmly with spacers. Installation of formwork - In the picture above, the threshold was immediately decided to be tiled, so before pouring the concrete, it was cut and adjusted to size in order to lay it on a damp base, and not glue it later.
- If you decide to use other finishing materials, then lay plastic film over the wooden formwork so that concrete does not stick to it and the edges are smooth. And then pour the prepared solution into it, filling all the corners and controlling the level.
- Let the solution dry overnight, then carefully remove the formwork. Over the next few days, wet the concrete with water to prevent cracks from forming.
- When the threshold reaches good strength, finish it with any desired material - tiles, laminate, linoleum, etc.
Concrete, finished with porcelain stoneware and painted in the color of the walls
Assembly of the canvas and installation of hinges
The standard height of the door leaf is 2000 mm. The width varies from 600 to 900 mm. Before hanging the canvas, loops are installed on it. When installing hinges, you must not make a mistake with the direction of opening the door.
- On the loop beam, mark a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom edges (standard location of the loops). Apply a loop to the mark and make a notch on both sides with a knife. At the same time, direct the blade towards the sample.
- To make the recess for the loop even, craftsmen use a milling machine. This operation can be done with a chisel and knife. The width of the opening should be such that the loop fits into it with little effort.
- Having installed the loop, use a drill whose diameter is smaller than the diameter of the fastening screws to make preliminary holes. This will make it easier to tighten the screws.
- Remove the loop and make a hole in the recess for fasteners that will secure the box to the wall. The countersunk must be deep enough so that the head of the screw does not interfere with the installation of the hinge.
- Having laid out the door frame on the floor and placed the canvas inside, check the conformity of the dimensions and the presence of gaps around the perimeter. The places where the hinges are attached are marked on the door leaf, coinciding with the grooves on the hinge beam. Then they place the canvas on its edge and make selections for the loops in the same way.
- After this, the hinges are attached to the door leaf.
Box installation
The assembled box is mounted in the opening strictly vertically, using a level and plumb line. At this stage, you will need pre-prepared triangular wedges. With their help, they level the box by hammering it deeper or replacing it with a more suitable wedge.
- On the hinge beam side, the wedges must be installed at the level of the hinges, where the box will be fixed to the wall. This is where the wedges will remain.
- On the opposite side, a wedge is placed in the upper part.
- A small amount of polyurethane foam is laid on the side of the room. The foam is placed behind the counter beam in sections so that the beam can be adjusted after the door is hung.
Framing a doorway with cashing
Fit
Replacing an interior door ends with fastening the cash to the door frame. To do this, you must first take all the necessary measurements.
After marking the cash, we cut off the excess parts with a circular saw or a hacksaw with a fine tooth. The upper parts of the platband are sawed at an angle of 45°.
After fitting, all that remains is to attach the cash to the door frame. You can use finishing nails or self-tapping screws for this. For the second option, decorative plugs are provided for the screw heads.
Now, thanks to our article, replacing an interior door will not seem difficult to you!
Hanging and adjusting the canvas
When the polyurethane foam has set a little, begin hanging the door:
- It is placed against the loop beam, placing a stop under the bottom. Place the top hinge element into the recess. I fasten it with screws.
- Installing the bottom hinge may require a lever to raise the door to the desired height. Align the loop with the groove and pre-fix it with 2 screws on opposite sides.
- Use a level to check the verticality of the door leaf.
After hanging the canvas, adjust its position. The front part of the frame is shifted to one side or another using wedges, monitoring the position of the door in the frame. When the frame is installed correctly, the door opens and closes easily, preventing it from opening on its own. The gaps are the same.
After this, tighten the remaining screws on the bottom hinge and foam the outside of the door.
Extensions and platbands
If the thickness of the wall in the opening is greater than the width of the box, additional additions will be required. These are the strips that cover the slopes of the doorway. The extensions take on the same color as the other door elements.
- For measurements, determine the most protruding part of the wall. Excess foam is cut off with a knife so that the extension can be inserted into the groove. The board is cut using a circular saw. The bottom edge is trimmed.
- Install from both sides to the top groove of the box, make a mark and cut to the desired height.
- The extensions are installed on all sides and secured in the upper corners with wedges.
- The extensions should be flush with the wall or protrude slightly if the wall is not level. This is checked with a level.
- The gap between the extension and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam. When it hardens and expands, its remains are cut off. The wall is plastered, covered with wallpaper and platbands are installed.
- The height of the side elements of the platbands is equal to the height of the doorway + the width of the upper platband. It is recommended to leave a reserve, which is cut after cutting at 45°, so that it is possible to make a new cut in case of accidental defects.
- The cuts are made using a miter box or a circular saw. On the vertical elements they are mirrored, the angle of 45° is located at the outer sides of the casing.
- Having installed the vertical trims, they are attached to 2 nails - in the center and at the bottom. After this, a horizontal bar is placed on top and markings are made. Make cuts on both sides at 45°.
- The parts of the platband are combined and secured with special small nails without heads.
- The platbands reach the floor, there is no gap under the baseboard, it is adjacent to the platband.
Dismantling
Self-installation of interior products often begins with dismantling the old door and frame. If the walls of the house are made of brick, you need to remove the nails that secure the frame to the wooden inserts. Find the caps on the vertical part and cut the timber along both parts of the fasteners. After this, cut out the tip of the nail with a chisel and pull it out with pliers.
Once the nails are removed, saw the timber in half and remove the old frame. If it was made of a metal alloy, cut off the pins attaching to the reinforcement and dismantle the box with a crowbar.
After dismantling, treat the opening. Level the surfaces and remove excess mortar using a hammer drill.
