Installation of PVC window blocks according to GOST 30971 (plastic)

Slopes in plastic windows perform not only a decorative function.
They are used to protect the opening, seams and frame. But with prolonged use of the window, the likelihood of damage or wear of the slopes increases.

Let's consider in what cases they may need repairs, how to dismantle them correctly, as well as the difficulties and features when replacing slopes.

Dismantling of slopes of plastic windows

A PVC window can include various slopes: plasterboard, plastic, cement.

If it is necessary to dismantle a slope made of cement mortar, you will need to additionally use a chisel or hammer drill.

If you need to dismantle plasterboard slopes, you first need to remove the paint and find the fasteners. As a rule, such an element is fixed with screws, which should be unscrewed with a screwdriver or a hammer drill, and then the slope itself should be pulled out and the mounting foam removed. The plastic slope is removed in the same way as from drywall.

Before you begin removing the old slope, you must remove the glass unit, otherwise it can be damaged.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic slopes

Gradually, the old slopes are replaced by new ones - plastic ones. The slope is the area that surrounds the window. It serves to mask the seams in the place where the frame is connected to the window opening. Plastic windows are gaining increasing popularity among the people at a very active pace. And there is nothing strange or surprising in this, because such windows are an ideal ratio of price and quality. They look very neat and tidy, they are very easy to care for, and they are very easy to wash. This is guaranteed protection from street noise and absolute tightness. During installation, all calculations and measurements are made by competent specialists.

Plastic slopes and window sills are an indispensable addition to modern plastic windows, which gives them a finished and familiar look to us.

But you can make plastic slopes with your own hands. This is the last step in installing the window. The last stage on the list, but not in its significance. With plastic slopes, the window will take on a harmonious and finished look. If you take on this matter yourself, you can save about three to four thousand rubles, and reasonable savings will only be beneficial. Do not underestimate your strengths and capabilities, relying on specialists in all matters.

Why should you choose plastic slopes?

The main components of proper installation of slopes.

The slope is a very important element of the window design. Therefore, the choice of material from which it will be made must be approached with all seriousness and responsibility. Plastic is only a fragile and fragile material at first glance. In fact, it is very strong and durable. A properly installed plastic slope will protect your home from moisture, cold and drafts, and will not fade in the sun. And it will last for many, many years. Modern people want to make their home warm, comfortable and cozy. And the window plays one of the main roles in this matter.

Plastic has virtually no flaws. The only negative is that this work requires absolutely precise execution; there should be no errors. Then plastic slopes will serve you faithfully for a long time, protecting your home from blowing.

Basic tools required for installation of plastic slopes.

Necessary materials for self-installation of plastic slopes:

• plastic panel (U-shaped strip of plastic, F-shaped strip of plastic, strip of plastic 6 m long and 8 mm thick);
• drill with attachments;
• hammer drill with drill;
• wooden slats (1.5 cm);
• building level;
• stapler and staples;
• screws, dowels;
• saw on wood, saw on plastic;
• hammer, screwdriver, pencil, tape measure, knife;
• polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool (insulation);
• decorative corners;
• white silicone sealant;
• metal scissors;
• vapor barrier tape.

So, having prepared all the necessary materials, you can learn how to make slopes and get to work.

Dismantling slopes: recommendations

Dismantling old slopes is the first and important step in installing new plastic slopes. Unscrupulous and poor-quality dismantling of old slopes will reduce to zero all the outstanding and wonderful properties of new plastic ones. Excess polyurethane foam and everything that remains from the previous slopes are removed.

The window opening is carefully and thoroughly cleaned of plaster. If anchors interfere with installation, they are also removed. The polyurethane foam is covered with vapor barrier tape.

How to make plastic slopes with your own hands?

It takes professionals an average of two to two and a half hours to install window slopes, so if you try, you can do it yourself in three to four hours. To do this work yourself, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for installing plastic slopes. Without slopes, the window will have an unfinished and unattractive appearance. The mounting plates and protruding pieces of polyurethane foam are visible to the naked eye. Remember that you can start work only a day after installing the window. Everything should dry well.

The window should be tightly covered with film to avoid damage when installing the slopes.

A day after installing the plastic window, you can begin installing the slopes, which will subsequently hide the mounting plates and mounting foam and give the window a neat appearance.

The first step in installation is to carefully align the entire opening. It is necessary to align horizontally and vertically. To do this you will need polyurethane foam. Frost-resistant ones are best. The resulting voids are filled with mineral wool. This preparation will protect the plastic from destruction. Protects against dampness. This is do-it-yourself moisture and sound insulation. After 20 minutes, excess foam is removed

The second step is to secure wooden blocks along the entire perimeter of the opening; the bars are measured and cut to the required length. Then you need to drill holes in them for the screws. Self-tapping screws 95 mm long are used for fastening. The slats should be placed so that they do not protrude beyond the level of the walls. Use a level to achieve perfect vertical alignment. The rail is attached directly to the wall with a drill or hammer drill.

The third step is to attach a U-shaped element (a seamless plastic profile) to a block. The starting profile is placed along the outer edge of the window. Self-tapping screws are used to secure it. It is better to take 15-20 mm screws and fasten them at a distance of 35-40 cm from each other. When installing a profile, the joint between the internal walls must be made without a gap. Measure the width of the window from the right to the left slope. Next, the U-shaped profile is cut to size using a hacksaw or grinder. The starting profile is screwed to the plastic frame with five self-tapping screws. The starting strip should fit as closely as possible to the window.

A U-shaped plastic profile, called a starting profile, is attached using self-tapping screws to previously screwed wooden blocks.

All dusty work has been completed. At this stage, you can remove the window from the protective film and proceed to the next step.

The fourth step is the F-shaped strip (a strip of plastic used when installing slopes). The groove of this strip is placed opposite the already installed U-shaped profile. But before that, it needs to be trimmed correctly. To do this, markings are applied along the height of the plastic slope, and the excess part is removed. After the F strip is filled, an overlap will form everywhere. Taking into account this overlap, you need to leave a small margin when cutting. When all work is completed, the overlap is cut off. The strip is attached to a wooden batten using a staple gun. Fastening is made to the part of the F-shaped end closest to the tree. All is ready. An F-shaped strip of plastic will cover the defective area and hide the entire internal unsightly picture from view.

Architectural features

Balcony options

There are several types of structures. They differ:

• According to the form. There are ordinary ones (their outlines may differ slightly depending on the project, being straight, rounded or beveled), forged ones - with a metal openwork lattice (usually without glazing) and French ones, which are characterized by the absence of a platform. The latter type is more of a decorative decoration than a functional extension.
• By design.

A) Attached - typical for one-, two-story buildings or on the corresponding floors of multi-story buildings. The supports of this type are placed on the platform directly under the balcony.

B) Attached - as if built into the wall of a building using load-bearing consoles. The load on the wall is reduced due to the front supports. Also used at low altitudes.

C) Wall mounted ones are attached to the wall using special devices. This option does not require any additional supports, which allows such a structure to be placed on any floor.

According to the presence and method of glazing. There are glazed and unglazed (closed and open, respectively). In this case, glazed ones are divided into two subgroups - cold glazing and warm glazing. With warm glazing, double-glazed windows with high thermal insulation properties are used. Cold glazing is much cheaper, although it also provides basic heat and sound insulation.

What exactly does a balcony consist of?

The most universal structural elements are the platform, fencing and fastenings (supports).

Standard width parameters are approximately 0.8 meters, lengths are about 2.5–3 meters, depending on the type of building.

The height of the fence for a building up to 30 m high is not lower than 900 mm.

If the building is taller, the height of the fences should also be increased by another 100 mm.

Types of loggias

Design features are divided into three types - built-in, remote and corner. The built-in structure is closed on three sides. The base slab is supported by load-bearing walls. The extension rests on the beams of additional walls. The corner is closed on both sides. The possible dimensions of the loggia are mainly limited only by its type and design features of the building.

Preparatory work

In a residential area, carrying out such activities is mandatory, since regardless of the dismantling method that is preferred, a fairly large amount of construction dust will be generated during its implementation. Taking this into account, initially you need to remove everything unnecessary from the room, especially what is located near the window being dismantled, so that nothing interferes during further work.

Next, using thick plastic film and masking tape or something similar, you need to protect furniture and other large items from possible damage and almost inevitable contamination. If the flooring and decoration present on the walls are not planned to be changed in the near future, then their safety must also be taken care of in the same way. If there is a carpet on the floor, it should be rolled up and taken to another room, and then covered, for example, with sheets of plywood, wood boards or other dense material. The walls can be protected with the same polyethylene and masking tape.

Next, in order to avoid drafts that will contribute to the movement of dust, you need to check that the doors and windows in other rooms are in the closed position. The existing cracks need to be sealed with damp rags, and the exhaust ventilation grilles must also be sealed. Now you should prepare a broom with a dustpan, garbage bags, a container of water and a rag, so that at the end of the work you can remove all the waste generated during the work.

It is equally important to ensure the safety of passers-by on the street. To do this, you need to mark and fence off the area of ​​the dismantling work, using marking tape, which will be able to warn people passing nearby about the danger of falling stones or other construction debris. To avoid emergency situations, it is necessary to prevent any components of the window structure from collapsing outside the premises.

Note! Work must be done in old clothes and using a respirator that protects the respiratory tract from dust, as well as thick gloves that will protect your hands from possible cuts.

In addition, before carrying out the main work, it is necessary to get rid of the slopes. Basically there are no difficulties with them. It is especially easy to remove plastic slopes, which are often secured with sealant or glue, which must be removed. Those plastered with appropriate compounds are often quite easily removed with a chisel and hammer. Some difficulties only arise in cases where cement-sand mortar, which requires great effort, was used in finishing them.

Assembling the sashes

The prepared sashes are placed on the shield and carefully aligned to a rectangular shape. The details of the window require special attention: a 1 mm difference in diagonals will provide a 0.7 mm gap.

The leveled area is secured with glue or nails, carefully driving them into the shield near the sash. They look through the old dowels (“chopiki”).

When assembling the sashes, it is necessary to strictly observe the rectangularity

Drill them in the middle of the corner using a larger diameter drill. If one of the dowels is shifted to one side, then you need to:

• Secure it along the border with a few drops of “Super Glue”;
• Drill the correct location;
• Pass the saw blade through the gap between the fixing lugs and saw through the old dowel.

After assembling all the corners, you should get a fairly rigid structure. Now you can take the frame and install the sashes into it. They will fit more tightly if plywood strips of the appropriate width and thickness are glued to the frame.

Place all parts on a leveled surface and press down with a weight (approximately 100 kg). Leave to dry and level for 2-3 days.

Tips and tricks

If you plan to replace wooden products with modern windows, dismantling must be carried out in such a way that the window opening is preserved in its original condition.

Careful work will save extra time on leveling if the surface is damaged.

If errors are discovered after dismantling, they should be eliminated before starting the process of installing new windows.

Improperly installed structures provoke a violation of the tightness and lead to the appearance of drafts.

It is better to do without unnecessary destructive actions, that is, breaking out or cutting. These old windows can then be reused.

If you follow the rules and instructions, dismantling will not take much time and will not take much effort.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=kFN3J-XOrHc

Help from professionals

When it comes to old windows, not everyone can remove such structures. And is it necessary? After all, this stage of dismantling is inexpensive, and is often included in the cost of subsequent installation of a double-glazed window. It is best if the window frame is removed by a professional hand. He knows how to carry out this process with a minimum of dust, without damaging the old structure.

In this case, the apartment owner will only need to carry out preparatory work prior to dismantling.

Removing the old profile is the first step in the subsequent installation of a new frame. It is preceded only by work on measuring the openings. To ensure that the window lasts as long as possible after installation and that no problems arise during operation, the removal of unnecessary frames and glass must be done correctly.

Do you want to be sure of high-quality installation? We will perform all stages of dismantling and subsequent installation at a high level at low prices.

Painting wooden windows

Most often, repair and restoration of wooden windows ends with painting. To do this, it is recommended to use special compositions that are well resistant to temperature changes and precipitation: oil paints, acrylic and alkyd enamels.

The coating must be applied in 2-3 layers

It is advisable to cover the windows with two or three layers of paint, spreading it as you finish. Optimal density will create a uniform, non-spreading layer. Initially, it is better to work with thinner paint. You should not try to immediately cover all visible defects on wooden windows, since the bulk of the initial layer will still be absorbed. The second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried.

It is advisable to paint the window frame with the glass removed. This will allow you to skip the unpleasant procedure of removing smudges. But if the glass has not been pulled out, then to protect it you can use a special masking tape glued close to the frame.

Replacing glass in a double glazing unit

If you need to remove glass from window sashes with your own hands, you must perform the following steps:

1. Remove the glazing beads from the window sashes, while inserting gaskets from improvised means into the resulting cracks. First you need to remove the side beads, then the bottom one, and only finally the top one. To prevent damage to the structure, work should be performed in this sequence.
2. In order to be able to install the glazing beads in their previous position after installing the new glass, it is recommended to mark them first with a marker.
3. Then you need to remove the glass unit, but do not forget about safety precautions; all actions should be performed with protective gloves and preferably with an assistant.
4. Install the new glass and secure its position.
5. After this, the beads must be installed in the reverse order. First the top, then the bottom and then the side ones. There is no need to perform additional sealing; the glazing beads provide fairly good insulation.

Installation

In order to replace a balcony block in a brick or panel house, it is worth stocking up on the necessary tools and materials, as well as clarifying the correct installation procedure. You can assemble and install the structure either with your own hands or with the help of craftsmen.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, the master should stock up on the following equipment:

• pencil;
• building level;
• tape measure;
• with a knife;
• anchor bolts;
• sealant;
• hacksaw for wood and metal;
• hammer;
• perforator.

Before you start taking measurements, you need to thoroughly clean the walls, making the corners straight. If you do the work yourself, it is recommended to use sketches drawn in advance. It is worth remembering that the opening dimensions should be 1 cm larger than the window dimensions.

Preparing a window for installation includes the following activities:

• removing the sashes from their hinges;
• removal of glass unit;
• gluing sealing tape to the outer surface;
• fastening brackets for mosquito nets;
• forming holes for anchors in the central part.

The steps described above should also be carried out in order to prepare the door frame. There should be no holes on the side of the box and window frame. Fastening must be carried out using a connecting profile. The presence of holes will violate the tightness of the structure.

Installation technology

The first stage of installing a balcony block is its installation in the opening. During the procedure, you should ensure that the structure is positioned correctly. In this case, a building level will help. In order for the frame to be fixed accurately, wooden blocks are placed under it. Before fastening begins, holes in the wall are drilled through the frame.

When the profile is securely fastened, you can begin installing the sashes and double-glazed windows. This work will not be difficult even for an inexperienced master. The craftsman will need to insert the corners and hammer the central part with a rubber mallet. The last working step is to fill the cracks with polyurethane foam. When doing this work, it is recommended to use a special gun and fill the seams to ?, since the foam may subsequently expand.

When the space between the wall and the frame has been filled, it is recommended to paint the area or cover it with a protective substance. The foam can dry completely only after 24 hours. You can open the doors only after this time has passed.

The final stage of installing the balcony block is to install the window sill and ebb. The first one often comes complete with the entire structure. If you need to make a window sill yourself, you can use plastic, wood, MDF, or natural stone.

Window sill installation diagram:

1. cleaning the opening;
2. laying wooden beams;
3. window sill installation;
4. cargo securing;
5. filling the void using polyurethane foam;
6. installation of plugs.

Dismantling plastic window sashes

It is best to get rid of all unnecessary elements before starting work. Understand correctly, if it is winter outside the windows, then remove the glass as late as possible. Take care of the cladding and even the window sills first. But the work starts in the summer, and therefore there is no point in delaying this matter. Let's see how sashes and double-glazed windows in plastic profiles are removed. It must be said that this type of product is not very diverse. Whether it is balcony windows or doors, there are only two types of plastic profile cells:

1. Hinged doors sitting on hinges. This also includes doors.
2. Conventional “dead” plugs from double-glazed windows.

It must be said that the set can be anything, and the price depends on it. That is, all cells can be hinged or blind. The first ones are more expensive. The point is that the design is the same, but! It is easier to remove a hinged cell from its hinges, while it is better to remove a double-glazed window from a blind cell. It will be easier. Let's see how both processes are carried out.

The doors sit on two hinges. We emphasize once again that the design is of the same type, so what has been said is also true for doors. Whatever the appearance of the loop, it is all a prop in the form of a cover. The top one completely covers the rotary connection, and the bottom one is just a cap, on the side of which there is often a hole for an adjusting screw with a TORX head. Both covers need to be removed.

Now the axis of the upper loop is carefully knocked down. At first glance it seems that this is not possible, but in fact the steel rod is quite easy to tap. All this must be done with the sash closed. And when the rod falls out, the window swings open and the frame falls right into your hands. The main thing here is not to drop it and not get hit on the forehead with an edge. The dismantling of the sash is completed. If you also need to remove the double-glazed window, then read on, because this is what the entire “blind” cells of the plastic window consist of.

As in wooden frames, there are glazing beads. Somewhere it was said that they come out with a slight click, but this is not entirely true. You need to bend them, starting from any of the sides with a hard knife, helping yourself with a screwdriver, from the middle to both edges. Gradually the glazing bead bends in an arc, and its ends can be removed from the corners of the frame. The profile is hollow, equipped with a rubber gasket. It is better to sign each bead where it was located, because if you turn it over, you can insert it from the opposite side. It is, of course, better to mark from the inside.

So, they are removed smoothly, with light effort. And with a click, the glazing beads pressing the glass unit are put on. That is, their tooth has unequal sides. One is cooler. The screwdriver must be slotted and thick, otherwise the process will be significantly delayed. That's not all. There are defective spacers under the glazing beads. These are plates of different thicknesses, standing on platforms (rebated inserts) running along the perimeter of the frame. The design is so interesting that you won’t be able to remove the glass unit right away. It simply won’t give in, and if you press it, it can break.

The problem is that the glass unit is sealed with high-quality rubber, the friction force of which on the plastic pads is very high. But breaking, as they say, is not building, so the following algorithm is proposed:

• The platform (seam insert) with the plate moves along the perimeter to the point where it begins to sag. Let's say right away that this will not work for everyone. You need to patiently find the one you need, push it until it can move freely, and then carefully pry off the plate with a knife. It’s better to put on glasses before doing this so that glass chips don’t get into your eyes if something happens.
• Several plates are removed one by one, preferably from the sidewalls and the top; the bottom can be left untouched. We will understand if someone starts to help themselves with strong words. It’s really difficult to do without this here.

Installing a plastic window in winter: installation features, disadvantages, check

The technology for winter installation of windows has long been developed, in addition, it is during this period that there is an ideal opportunity to check their tightness.

However, this installation has some features that the customer should be sure to familiarize themselves with.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=_uhrA8-T5R8

When installing plastic windows, the result of the work ultimately depends entirely on the experience of the installers. Winter installation is allowed by GOST and is even beneficial if all technologies are fully observed during installation.

At this time of year, enterprises provide customers with all kinds of discounts, so plastic windows installed in winter will cost much less, and the waiting time for their production will be significantly reduced.

Features of window installation in winter

As the installers themselves joke, in winter all the flaws will be immediately visible: the workers have not left yet, but it is already blowing from the windows.

To prevent this from happening, you should follow the basic rules during installation:

1. Installation is not recommended at temperatures below –15°C, since adjusting the junction of the sashes in severe frosts will be difficult.
2. The window must acclimatize to the room and warm up to room temperature, since the plastic shrinks slightly in the cold; if you install it right away, it may lead.

Procedure for winter installation

Unfortunately, in Russia the customer needs to monitor the quality of work regardless of the time of year. The procedure for work in winter is almost no different from installing plastic windows in summer:

1. Dismantling old frames.
2. Thorough cleaning of the opening from old plaster, ice and snow.
3. To increase the adhesion of the sealing tape and foam, warm up the opening using construction hair dryers.
4. Installing the window frame and fixing it with fasteners.
5. Thermal insulation of joints along its entire perimeter using winter or off-season polyurethane foam.
6. Installation of external flashing to seal the joint.
7. Installation of the window sill: until completely dry, it is fixed with spacers and pressed tightly to the surface using weights.
8. Insulation of internal slopes.
9. Installation of accessories, adjustment.

Disadvantages of winter installation

1. In the summer, it is possible to dismantle all the windows in an apartment at the same time, and if several teams are working, installation occurs much faster.
2. In winter, to avoid freezing the apartment, windows are removed gradually.
3. During installation, the room remains open for 40-60 minutes, so all flowers should be removed from it, as well as children and pets.
4. During severe frosts, planned installation may be delayed.

This video will tell you about installing plastic windows in winter:

Many companies use protective heat shields made of polymer film for window openings during winter installation. In such conditions it is much more comfortable for both the installation team and the owners.

Checking the quality of installation of plastic windows

After installation, you can immediately check its quality using a burning match or lighter.

If the window does not fit tightly, the light brought to the window will fluctuate or even go out.

The check should be carried out on all four sides of the sash.

A well-made window should not fog up and should be easy to open and close.

In case of distortions, problems with opening the sash may arise in the future, so the check should also be carried out using a level.

If everything is done according to the technology, the frame and window sill should be installed smoothly and without deformation. Plastic and glass surfaces must not be scratched.

You can read tips on choosing and calculating reinforcement to strengthen a strip foundation in this article.

You can learn about calculating the foundation for building a house with different types of foundations here.

“We’ve been in court for six months now. In the summer the windows looked quite decent, but in the winter it was terrible. It’s blowing from everywhere.”Angela, Shatura

“It was the hard workers who saved money on you. Personally, I bought them more foam with a reserve and stood over my head, checking the sealing of every crack. It seems like everything worked out.”Alexey, Volgograd

“Isn’t it easier to foam the opening yourself again than to waste your nerves?” Oleg, Kaliningrad

“We also installed windows in the winter. You can find fault, of course. But it doesn't blow. But at my neighbor’s grandmother’s, all the foam crumbles off as soon as you touch it with your hand. Apparently they used summer foam.” Alexander, Ufa

“We bought a small apartment in St. Petersburg. I wonder if there are “black” and “white” lists of companies that do installation. I really wouldn’t want to run into “hack work.” Gennady Alekseevich, Krasnodar

“If possible, talk to your neighbors. Find out when they installed their windows, what kind of company it is, and what reviews there are about it.” Oleg, Kaliningrad

Removing plastic window cladding

The elements of the internal cladding of a plastic window include:

1. The slopes cover the cross section of the wall in the area of ​​the window opening from the sides and top. They are usually made of plastic, although no one prohibits the use of laminate scraps, MDF panels and other materials for the same purposes.
2. Platbands. These are corner elements at the internal junction of the room wall and slopes. They serve a purely decorative function, hiding the sheathing underneath.
3. The starting profile is adjacent to the perimeter of the plastic window frame and serves to fasten the slopes on one side. It is a profile in the shape of the letter P, one of the legs of which is slightly longer than the other
4. The sheathing is laid along the inside of the perimeter of the window opening. And it is used to fasten the side of the slopes farthest from the window. It is made from a strip of such thickness that the slope fastening screw fits inside. Mounted on the wall using dowel-nails (concrete). In the case of a log house or glued beams, you can do without this element. In this case, the profile shape of the platband changes to angular.

It is logical to continue dismantling plastic windows by removing elements of the internal cladding. As we indicated above, in winter you can even start with this step. The platbands come off first. They are usually held together with silicone glue and do not fit very tightly. They themselves typically represent an F-profile. The slopes are unscrewed next. Heads are either cross or TORX. Both are easy to find today at the market or in a store. Go for it.

The sheathing needs to be torn off only if it is no longer needed. That is, the windows are installed wooden and using a completely different technology. If you are not sure, then it is better not to touch the dowel-nails, but simply continue working without touching the bar around the perimeter of the window opening. The starting profile is the easiest to remove. Often attached with half-cylindrical screws to the frame. We recommend that when dismantling the entire internal lining, you mark the parts from the inside, so that you can then carry out the installation in a new location without any problems. If the outer section of the cladding or frame is accidentally painted, then using solvents from the Cosmofen line, the problem can be quite easily resolved. The main thing is to use gloves, and for long-term work, a respirator. Not a construction one, but a real one, which protects against harmful fumes, so that the dismantling of plastic windows does not end sadly for the master.

Removing a window sill is often a special concern because in some cases cement mortar is used during installation. But the cheap option usually involves the presence of glue or foam. So take a knife, a chisel, and get to work! A crowbar will also come in handy. To avoid breaking the window sill, start pulling it from the center, tearing it off and moving to the sides gradually and in both directions at once. Before dismantling, you can remove the side plugs. Let’s immediately say a few words about the external window sill of a plastic window. Usually it is attached with ordinary screws. Take a cross-head screwdriver in your hands and begin dismantling.

Requirements for the installation seam

Assembly seams of junction units of window and door units are made in accordance with the requirements of GOST 30971-2012 according to design and technological documentation approved in the prescribed manner (clause 5.1.1 of GOST 30971-2012).

Options for constructing an assembly seam according to GOST 30971-2012 are shown in Figure 2.

Figure 2 GOST 30971-2012 - Construction seam option

Conventions used in the figure:

• I - outer waterproofing, vapor-permeable layer;
• II - central heat and sound insulating layer;
• III - internal vapor barrier layer;
• IV - additional water and vapor barrier layer.

Requirements for the dimensions of installation gaps are established in section 5.2 of GOST 30971-2012.

According to clause 5.2.1, the minimum dimensions of installation gaps for window blocks of various designs are taken in accordance with Table 2, Figure 3, as well as from the condition of ensuring the possibility of free thermal expansion of the window block without the occurrence of bending deformations of the profile elements.

Figure 3 GOST 30971-2012 - Location of installation gap

According to clause 5.2.3 of GOST 30971-2012, the deviation from the vertical and horizontal sides of the opening should not exceed 4.0 mm per 1 m.

The check is carried out in three ways:

• building level, while measuring the width and height is carried out at least three times;
• measuring the diagonals of the opening;
• laser plane builder.

In accordance with clause 5.3.1 of GOST 30971-2012, the edges and surfaces of openings should not have chips, cavities, mortar overflows and other damage with a height (depth) of more than 10 mm. Surfaces contaminated with oil should be degreased. Loose, crumbling areas of the opening surfaces must be strengthened (treated with binders or special film materials).

Slopes for plastic windows: step-by-step instructions from “A” to “Z”

To complete the installation of the front door or windows, you need to finish the slopes.
A door or window slope can be made using plaster, drywall, and plastic panels. The most common option for facing slopes is plastic panels. Because finishing window slopes inside with plastic is a universal solution. It should be noted that this building material is used for interior and exterior work.

Advantages of plastic

To cover the slopes of a house, the plaster method was previously used, then plasterboard, which was widely used for cladding. But with the advent of PVC windows, plaster and drywall faded into the background. Since finishing slopes using the plaster method has significant disadvantages. The main disadvantages include:

• If you plaster the slopes yourself, it takes a lot of time.
• This type of finishing creates a lot of construction waste.
• Due to shrinkage and temperature changes, cracks may occur on the surface.
• The component elements do not form the required adhesion to the plastic, as a result of which the slopes peel off from the window.

Internal window slopes made of plastic
To properly plaster the window opening, you should use a perforated corner and beacons. The perforated corner is installed on the outer corners of the slope. To do this, you need to cut off a corner of the required size, apply putty to the slopes and press the perforated corner. The plaster beacon is installed vertically along the window frame. To do this, cut the beacon to the required size, apply putty along the box and attach the prepared parts. After 40 minutes, you can plaster the slopes.

A finishing material such as drywall provides the opportunity to make slopes faster and warmer. But even the moisture-resistant version of this material cannot withstand temperature changes and the influence of condensation. PVC window slopes have a more interesting appearance.

Advantages of plastic slopes

But beauty is not their only advantage; positive characteristics include:

• The panels are made of the same material as the window frame, therefore, the space around the window takes on a monolithic structure.
• It is enough to simply install the insulation. It should be noted that with proper insulation, condensation is impossible.
• Installation of plastic panels creates virtually no debris or noise.
• This kind of building material can be used externally and internally, since polyvinyl chloride does not emit harmful substances.
• Insensitive to moisture.
• Duration of use.
• Tolerates temperature changes perfectly.
• Easy to use.
• The building material has an excellent pricing policy, therefore, it is available to anyone who wants to install plastic window slopes with their own hands.

The disadvantages of plastic include the impracticability of fragmentary restoration.

Do-it-yourself plastic slopes for windows (video)

Selection of building materials

Before you think about how to make plastic slopes yourself, you need to consider possible variations in materials. There are 2 types of plastic panels:

1. Decorative.
2. Sandwich panels.

Decorative slopes can be used:

• For the formation of partitions.
• As a facing building material for balconies.

Necessary tools for finishing window slopes
For all other purposes, preference should be given to sandwich panels. This kind of material differs in that it has 2 protective layers and a facing layer of insulation. This structure allows you to avoid additional insulation. Key points for selecting panels:

1. Preference should be given to building materials made from virgin plastic. Since the correct material is chosen, it will not change color, and the composition will not cause harm to health.
2. It is better to choose a material with a significant plastic cover. Panels with thin PVC sheet covering are not durable. Over time, the plastic peels off the surface.

Finishing window slopes with plastic requires the following materials:

• Profile.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Dowels.
• Wooden slats.
• Gypsum insulation wool.
• Liquid Nails.

Preparatory moments

To finish the inside of window slopes with plastic in a high-quality manner with your own hands, you need to clean the walls and prepare all the necessary equipment and building materials. To form slopes, the thickness of the plastic strip should be 8 mm. The width and duration of the plastic must correspond to the size of the opening. You should prepare and clean the walls step by step:

1. Remove excess foam.
2. The shipping tape must be removed from the window profile.
3. Seal the internal seams.
4. The upper reaches and side sections of the hole must be freed from whitewash and leveled with putty.
5. It is recommended to wipe the prepared area and apply 1-2 layers of primer.

Formation and installation technology

After preparing the opening around the circumference, a vapor barrier film should be glued. At the combination points, sections of the film should be laid with an excess of 5-7 cm and glued along the seam. The tape must be glued so that the edges do not extend beyond the window frame. After this, you can proceed to the formation of slopes using the following instructions:

We fasten the bars with dowels

• Fastening timber material. For these purposes, wooden slats with a thickness of 15 mm and a width of 40 mm are taken. The slats should be trimmed to the width and height of the outer edge of the opening. The slats need to be secured with dowels around the circumference of the opening. If the walls of the hole are wavy, then it is recommended to place wedges under the planks.
• Take the necessary measurements carefully. It should be understood that all measurements must be taken from the frame, and not from the edge of the special profile.
• Open the slopes. The length and width of the walls of the hole should be correctly measured, and attention should also be paid to the angle of inclination on each side. You should mark the cutting points on the slab and cut out the workpieces. The resulting elements should be attached to the wall and their location and angular fit should be checked.
• Special profile fastening. A special profile should be attached along the outer edge of the opening with short screws. When joining the bars together, the special profile should be secured in the corners so that no gaps are formed. Installation of slopes begins with the manufacture of edging. This structural component is made from an F-shaped profile. All manipulations should begin from the top element. The profile must be cut to the size of the external opening and the corners must be filed at 45 degrees. The prepared special profile should be attached to the block so that it can be covered with plastic, but without blocking the groove for fixing the slope.

Installation of plastic slopes

• The profile is fixed to the beam with staples. The remaining sections are mounted in a similar way. The prepared slope element must be placed in a special profile, pre-coated with sealant. The resulting gap between the plastic and the wall must be sealed with insulation. It should be noted that the layer of insulation material should not be excessively massive or have vacuums. The outer edge of the slope must be inserted into the groove of the special profile and pressed to align the panel. Next, you should sew up the side slopes, while carefully distributing the thermal insulation. If the external walls are insulated, then such manipulations with the slopes do not need to be performed. In such a situation, the gaps between the panels and the base of the slopes should be sealed with polyurethane foam.
• The final period involves attaching decorative corners, which should be glued with glue. The contact points between the panels must be degreased and all cracks must be sealed with acrylic sealant. Acrylic should be squeezed directly into the gap, rubbed and leveled, and any excess should be removed with a damp cloth. All manipulations should be done in small areas and wiped carefully clean. Because while the acrylic has not hardened, it can be removed quite easily. The area of ​​the opening under the window sill is being plastered.

PVC slope cladding

Advice! You can veneer window slopes in another way, which differs significantly from the previous one. This method allows you to cover a window slope using any PVC material. It should be noted that this option is used when the installation seam has a small interval, that is, the distance from the frame to the wall is minimal.

The initial stage should be carried out in stages:

• Cleaning.
• Elimination of defects.
• Applying primer.

Sheathing slopes should adhere to the following rules:

1. Remove excess foam, making sure that the cut is placed flush with the surface of the frame.
2. Facing slopes with plastic plates involves treating the surface with a primer. Preference should be given to penetrating formulations with the addition of antiseptic components.
3. Fixing slats.
4. An important point is trimming the polyurethane foam. The cutting is done in such a way that a groove is formed for fixing the plastic. Trimming is done in close proximity to the frame to ensure maximum adherence of the material.
5. Reveal the details.

Technologies and materials used

When installing plastic windows, our installation teams use the latest technologies and the best materials. Our company uses the latest licensed development for sealing butt seams of its own production.

The use of this latest system when installing PVC windows allows for additional air exchange while maintaining moisture resistance. In addition, our specialists have extensive experience in successful complex installation of structures with additional frame structures and other complicating issues.

You can read more articles about windows here...

Putty and primer on windows during renovation

The uneven areas are covered with a layer of putty and left until completely dry, which takes approximately 12-20 hours.

This step is the final step before applying a new paint coating to the wooden frame. To do this, sandpaper is used to clean out the unevenness and defects formed during previous work. After that, these irregularities are covered with a layer of putty and left until completely dry, which takes approximately 12-20 hours. Then repeat sanding with sandpaper and putty again.

We suggest you read: How to fix drywall in a wooden house

When the 2nd layer has dried, they begin to prime the surface of the frame, but not in 1 layer, but in 2. Each such layer must be dried well for 12 hours.

We should not forget that the first layer of paint is applied to saturate the wood, so it should not be too thick. After the first layer of paint has dried (this happens in about 12 hours), the second is applied. If you do not wait for the 1st layer to dry, bubbles will form when applying the 2nd.

Preparation

Before you begin, you need to clear the room of things and furniture, and, if possible, cover all surfaces with film or tarpaulin, leaving space for access to the work area. This stage is quite dusty, so the fewer items left in the room, the easier it will be to clean up after the work is completed.

It is better to cover the floor with film in several layers. In this case, it will be possible to wrap all construction waste in the top layer and take it out of the room.

Make sure there is electrical power in the room. Work is carried out with tools powered by the network.

Direct dismantling work

Removing old windows begins with removing the window sashes from their hinges. In windows with blind parts, you will need to remove the glazing beads and pull out the glass.

After this, you can dismantle the window sill. The process of dismantling it also depends on the material from which it is made. If the window sill is made of concrete, then it will have to be removed using a hammer and a rebar grinder. All other window sills can usually be removed completely without any problems.

The next stage of window dismantling is removing the ebb. The main thing is to determine how the ebb was attached and to which part of the window opening. It is usually mounted directly to the window profile itself or to the frame.

Now you can completely remove the window from the opening. Usually a mounting cutter or hacksaw or jigsaw is used. After removing the frame from the window opening, the slopes are dismantled. This does not apply to those slopes that consist of cement-sand mortar. The rest can be easily removed. If there was insulation under the slopes, then it is also dismantled. That's it, the window opening is almost ready for installing a new frame.

If you plan to install PVC windows in the future, then you should try to dismantle the old ones as carefully as possible so as not to damage the opening. It is clear that the cost of installing/dismantling windows by professionals is not a very expensive service (for the first procedure they will charge about 1,300 rubles per sq. m., and for the second - from 140 rubles per square meter), but the more complete the window opening, the simpler and It's cheaper to install a new window. If errors cannot be avoided, they will have to be eliminated and the integrity of the damaged structure must be completely restored to ensure maximum tightness of the window installation. In this case, the fittings will not wear out quickly.

After all the dismantling work, you can clean the room and move on to the installation of new windows.

Average price for work

Average prices for dismantling and replacing old slopes most often depend on the materials used, as well as the need for high-rise work. Below is the average cost for dismantling old materials:

• putty – 120 r/m.p. (linear meter);
• plaster – 140 r/m.p.;
• wallpaper – 50 r/m.p.;
• paints – 120 r/m.p.;
• plasterboard/sandwich panels – 30 r/l.m.

Installation depends on the material, depth and shape of the opening, as well as high-altitude work:

• with a depth of up to 25 cm, the finishing of internal slopes of ordinary windows will cost 650-750 rubles/m.p., and external slopes – 850-950 r/m.p.;
• installation of laminated slopes on openings with a depth of up to 25 cm will cost 1,600 rubles/m.p.

In what cases is the procedure necessary?

In houses and apartments from previous years of construction, old wooden windows are preserved. In some cases, further use of such structures becomes unacceptable. In this case, they will have to be replaced, and the old ones must be dismantled.

Low thermal insulation

If it becomes colder in an apartment or private house in winter, outdated structures are to blame. The wood dries out, cracks, and cracks form through which cold air penetrates from the street.

Bad appearance

After years of use, wooden products begin to lose their appearance, the paint peels off, and the material becomes covered with cracks. Updating them won't be easy. Just painting it won't make the cracks go away. Major renovation will be required.

Low sound insulation

Every year, wooden frames gradually move away from the platbands. The sounds of what is happening on the street are heard louder and louder inside the apartment. They will interfere with concentration at work and sleep at night.

The importance of correct measurements

The manufacturer usually offers the services of its own measurer. This service is free. The product is manufactured on the basis of a measurement sheet, where the measurer indicates all the necessary parameters. If, when installing a window, difficulties arise due to an incorrectly manufactured product, the manufacturer will bear responsibility.

As a rule, window measurements are carried out by the manufacturer

If the customer provides the dimensions himself, then at the stage of signing the contract for the provision of services for the manufacture and installation of plastic windows, he signs the measurement sheet, which is drawn up by the manager based on the provided dimensions.

With his signature, the customer confirms the correctness of the dimensions indicated in the measurement sheet, in his words, which means that if the window does not fit during installation, the customer will bear responsibility and all financial costs for remaking the product will fall on his shoulders

When taking measurements yourself, it is important to approach this matter extremely responsibly

What is required for dismantling

You must first acquire the following set of tools:

• Several small crowbars used as levers.
• Screwdrivers or screwdriver with replaceable bits. The latter tool is more preferable, since it can significantly speed up the process of unscrewing fittings and fasteners.
• With a hammer and chisel, as well as a spatula, chisel and pliers.
• A hacksaw that allows you to cut metal and plastic. Such a tool will be required if the window is not planned to be used in the future in another location.

In addition, you must have a hammer drill with a blade-shaped attachment.

Removing old double glazing

For faster results and trouble-free dismantling of the window structure with your own hands, you should perform all actions in a certain sequence. First of all, it is necessary to free the window from the slopes, then remove the sashes. Then dismantle the window frame, ebb and flow and dismantle the window sill.

The first step is to free the window from the slopes. There will be no problems if the window has overhead plastic slopes. In this case, we simply carefully disassemble the structure using a screwdriver or screwdriver. If the slopes are plastered, you should use a chisel and a hammer.

Removing window sashes

To remove the flaps, you will need a large flathead screwdriver or chisel, pliers and a hammer. Next, you need to perform actions in the following sequence:

Move the window sash to the open position

Moreover, you should pay attention specifically to the upper part of the window; you need to remove it. Using a hammer and a small screwdriver, you need to carefully knock the spindle (rotary shaft) out of the loop. After this, you should pull the window sash towards you and upward and, thus, you need to free it from the fastenings. In the event that, due to the installed slopes, it is impossible to knock out the rotary shaft from above using a screwdriver, it should be pulled out with pliers from below

To do this, you need to press on it from above so that it is more convenient to grab the edge of the spindle with pliers

If, due to the installed slopes, it is impossible to knock out the rotary shaft from above using a screwdriver, it should be pulled out with pliers from below. To do this, you need to press on it from above so that it is more convenient to grab the edge of the spindle with pliers.

Removing the rotary shaft

In order to install the sash back into the frame, you need to put the lower hinge on one spindle, then on the second upper one and secure the structure. If the structure cannot be installed manually, you can use a hammer.

Sawing the frame

To ensure that the process of removing the panels does not cause difficulties, it is necessary to make cuts in the double-glazed window. You should make two cuts in width and three in height. To do this, you can use an ordinary hacksaw. Experts do not recommend using a grinder for this purpose, so as not to clog the workspace.

Removing the window frame

In order to dismantle the frame with your own hands, you can use a small crowbar or a hammer drill with a suitable attachment.

If the structure is secured with self-tapping screws, they should be unscrewed and parts of the frame should be removed; if this is not possible, they can be pulled out using a nail puller. The polyurethane foam should be cut at the joints of the frame; for this it is best to use a shoe knife. Then you need to remove the frame.

Dismantling the frame

Removing the window sill and ebb

Removal of the tide must be done with care so as not to damage the structure. To dismantle the ebb with your own hands, you must first unscrew all the screws and then forcefully separate it from the mounting foam.

Then you can start removing the window sill.

Removing the window sill is quite simple. Since the window sill is often secured using polyurethane foam, it should be separated from the sealant by force. If the size of the window sill is large, it should be removed, moving towards the edges from the middle of the structure.

Dismantling of fittings

In order to avoid damage to the structure, all protruding parts should be removed. This category includes mesh slots, locking mechanism handles, blind handles and other parts. To do this, you can use a screwdriver or screwdriver. It is recommended to store all details in one place, having previously signed each detail. This will help in the future to make out “what’s what”, but if in the case of the handle of the locking mechanism everything is clear, then it is still better to mark the remaining parts with a marker.

Why remove the window sill?

Reducing the width of the product may be necessary if for some reason it begins to interfere or the builders initially installed a structure that is too wide and inconvenient. Why might a window sill get in the way? The reasons may be as follows:

• We bought furniture that clings to the protruding part of the window sill: for example, there is a refrigerator near the window, the door of which opens towards the window sill.
• Another reason may be improper distribution of warm air; if the radiator is located under a structure that is too wide, the air accumulates under the window and does not rise upward, causing poor heating of the room.
• It may be necessary to remove the plastic window sill to replace it, for example, during repair work if the window sill has been damaged. When replacing windows, they change it too.
• It may be necessary to remove the product when insulating the structure. If you do this carefully, you won’t have to buy a new one; you can clean the foam from the old one and install it in place.

Removing the plastic window sill to reduce its width